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Old 06-01-2009, 07:44 AM   #3001
bluesman
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Location: Hoegaarden, Belgium
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[quote=800rider]
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman
Right, since I assume answer is in order...
Dear Don. Let me get it straight.
First of all - you are expert, inventor and you know your stuff. Why would you be bothered by opinion of humble owner of DR800 who likes to play with . So - my opinion means nothing and I have nothing to apologize of ammend in my post. And I thought that independence of PERSONAL opinion kinda respected on your side of the pond.


quote]
Think you boys ort to kiss and make up we wouldnt want to get a rep
Things could be worse I could make you ride this ( the bad bit would be that youd enjoy it )
And then youd really know about suspension

I just not about arguing mate No point in it - everyone will keep his opinion as we all grown ups

You want to scare me with this hey, do I have to post photo of my russian-boxer chopper junk which was my second bike?
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:49 AM   #3002
bluesman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morse
Leaking fuel valve??? Try to close the tap while leaving the bike for a rest...
OR worn valve stem seals... (Once we changed them without taking the engine off).

My bike has done the same thing ONCE and that was after almost two weeks without starting her up... Guess she was angry at me.
I don't know what was the reason of it (fuel or oil) but my smoke was white.
Morse, do you have rough description of procedure? I actually want to change valve seals on my DR but do no want to take it all in pieces again.
I know removing of head cover does not require engine out of frame...but I am specifically interested if you had to touch camshaft or removing head cover with rockers was enough? and - did you have to prevent valves from dropping or you just did it by putting piston in TDC position?
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Old 06-01-2009, 09:45 AM   #3003
Chanterman
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I think take head cover off. Cam shafts off and tying the cam chain up so as not to drop into bottom of engine . Cylinder head off and passing the cam chain through and tying off again. Valves out and ground in and replace valve seals with new. If smoking a lot it may be the valve guides , I last did this on a Norton. Strip head of valves and place in oven for ages, remove and knock the guides out .Replace with new guides and cool down. Re grind valves in and rebuild top end
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Old 06-01-2009, 09:59 AM   #3004
bluesman
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This is way I did it on my VTR250 long time ago....
Difference is - DR is SOHC, so I was hoping not to touch camshaft when changing guides and avoid taking head off. On DR big you can not take head off with engine in frame, unless you grind off some cooling fins. Yes, I am getting old and lazy
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Old 06-01-2009, 10:28 AM   #3005
www.drbig.info
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Valve guides???? Yougottabekidding!
It`s virtually unheard of for Suzuki valve guides to ever need replacing.
Whereas on a Norton it`s part of the annual service
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Old 06-01-2009, 10:52 AM   #3006
bluesman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by www.drbig.info
Valve guides???? Yougottabekidding!
It`s virtually unheard of for Suzuki valve guides to ever need replacing.
Whereas on a Norton it`s part of the annual service
Not guides, just seals :) Am I rushing it? I do not really know... 90 000 km on odometer, nothing done to top or bottom end of engine (decompressor shaft seal does not count)... Not sure I will do it, just if it does not require taking head off engine...
Last trip - took 2.5-3 liters of oil per 5500 km, but that's with passenger, luggage and German motorways "transit". Does not seem to take much oil in usual riding. Or may be I am just bored :) 1 week till final assembly of upgraded DR.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:08 AM   #3007
ppe172
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You can remove the head without taking the motor out of the frame but you have to undo the motor mounts. Then you can rock the motor back and get the head off (I've done it at least twice). However, once you've gone to that much trouble there isn't much more to taking the motor out.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:28 AM   #3008
bluesman
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I know - as you probably remember I rebuilt my DR to/from pieces...
But I am lazy
If Morse can confirm I can do seals change without removing top enf - oh, I'll do it gladly...
Otherwise - I won't bother
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Old 06-01-2009, 12:01 PM   #3009
DrBigEd
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Ahoy there mates!

Been slow on progress since the side stand switch gave me bones. I looked at the manual, but seem to have missed it (don't worry about the wiring diagram - don't understand much of it). How do I by-pass the switch? Do I just cut the wire or do I loop it? Is it 2 or 3 wires?

This is getting quite dangerous...
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Old 06-01-2009, 12:30 PM   #3010
Ladder106
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Ed,

The switch closes the circuit when the stand is in the "UP" (riding) position.

So, to bypass, simply find the two wires coming from the switch and unplug them under the seat. Then splice and solder the two wires together, finish with some heat-shrink tubing (don't forget to put the tubing on BEFORE you solder like I do) and secure to left frame rail. Unbolt neutered switch from the frame and screw in two 6mm bolts or allens to both fill the holes and carry as spares in case you need hardware for something when you're out riding. If you but in longer bolts you can screw nuts on the protruding ends and have two spare nut/bolt combinations for back-up.
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Old 06-01-2009, 12:45 PM   #3011
Ladder106
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Vibranators Ride Report

After 2 - 30 mile commutes I can state with certainty that the Ricor Vibranators are a worth-while addition to the DR750.

My commute involves about 15 miles of motorway (freeway) with speeds up to 140kph, about 10 miles of inner city streets and about 5 miles of graded dirt road (this is optional but I try to add it whenever I can).

Overall, my impression is that the Vibranators reduce the DR handlebar vibes by 50 to 60 percent overall with the most improvement on the motorway.

The smoothest patch is between 4000 (just under 100kph) to 5500 (130kph) where the bars are very smooth. This is not to say that you can't feel any vibration at all but you really have to focus on it to feel it.

After 5500 the vibes pick up in amplitude and become noticable but not irritating at 5700 (140kph) and remain at this point to 6000 which I only touched briefly before running out of clear space.

I have the standard 7/8 in steel bars on the bike with Acerbis handguards as tested. I have a pair of Renthal 7/8 in CR high bend bars that I plan to install in the next day or two. I won't be able to test with these until next week since my forks are going to Ricor today for the Intiminator installation.

My conclusion is the Vibranators work as advertised and would be an improvement to any DR. I'm sure they'll reduce fatigue and make a longer ride more pleasant. They are well built, able to accomodate handlebars guards or fit bars without the guards and are easy and quick to install. A product that will improve your bike.
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Old 06-01-2009, 01:03 PM   #3012
RaY YreKa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
My conclusion is the Vibranators work as advertised and would be an improvement to any DR. I'm sure they'll reduce fatigue and make a longer ride more pleasant. They are well built, able to accomodate handlebars guards or fit bars without the guards and are easy and quick to install. A product that will improve your bike.
How much are they? How easy are they to fit?

I'm having second thoughts about the KLX forks, and may just upgrade the braking (I have the Gilera caliper, Aprilia pads, and would add Hel braided lines).
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Old 06-01-2009, 01:14 PM   #3013
DrBigEd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
Ed,

The switch closes the circuit when the stand is in the "UP" (riding) position.

So, to bypass, simply find the two wires coming from the switch and unplug them under the seat. Then splice and solder the two wires together, finish with some heat-shrink tubing (don't forget to put the tubing on BEFORE you solder like I do) and secure to left frame rail. Unbolt neutered switch from the frame and screw in two 6mm bolts or allens to both fill the holes and carry as spares in case you need hardware for something when you're out riding. If you but in longer bolts you can screw nuts on the protruding ends and have two spare nut/bolt combinations for back-up.
Ladder, this actually makes sense to me. Must say, I giggled slightly when I read the neutered part till I remembered what the missus wants to do to me - especially tonight... (6.5 months down the line)
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DrBigEd screwed with this post 06-01-2009 at 01:23 PM
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Old 06-01-2009, 01:23 PM   #3014
RaY YreKa
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Ray's Amazing Skills, Part 2

Well, I had a nightmare 20 miles in the inner-city today; 25 degrees, roads closed everywhere, and I'm sure I'll get a 30 'camera fine' for losing my temper and using prohibited bus lanes .

However, I had a much more pleasant afternoon at Chez Steve (aka England2). You might want to by-pass this post if you're not a fan of the 'blog' elements of the thread



On the Road Again: the Grane Road, to be precise, on the way to Steve's house.



Two Bigs: Steve has his 750 Supermoto, and this fetching 800 with white frame. As you can see, my camera has still not recovered from the UK rain, and I'm starting to think it's permanently buggered.



Oh the Shame: the poor old girl has her knickers down and her arse is in full view..



Atta Boy: Steve gets to work pulling the rear sprocket off, for a look at the cush rubbers.



Not Too Bad: Cush rubbers were slightly worn, so we shored them up with some old inner tube, but I guess the low mileages on my bike (10k) means it could have been worse.



Sammy Dog: Steve's faithful friend Sam was on hand to encourage us, and make us play with his pink toy.



Wheel Sorted: Some racing grease on the moving parts of the rear wheel and caliper.



Caution, Artist at Work: Steve gets all Picasso with the artist's brush, and some chainsaw oil..



Phew, I'm Hot & Sweaty: And, for some reason, all serious looking


What may have taken me 4 hours took Steve about 1 hour, and I'm very grateful . Joking aside though, Steve taught me how to:

Remove/mount the rear wheel
Grease/Clean the brake housings and calipers
Fix the cush drive
Clean/Grease the rear spindle, spacers, etc

And, finally, thanks to an ingenious Spare Swingarm Tutorial, I not only know what 'linkages' are, but I'm pretty sure I could grease them

Thanks mate
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Old 06-01-2009, 01:29 PM   #3015
bluesman
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You sure it is camera fault and not Boddington/Beamish/Ginness kind? :)

Jokes aside - it is great that somebody can walk you through. Really, England2 is the man to do that. It requires patience and good nature of a man!
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