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Old 12-16-2009, 12:27 AM   #5386
ausibatla
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Location: Waroona, West. Australia
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Can anybody tell me if the whish bone on the rear suspension is the same length between centres on both the '88 DR750 and the '91 DR800.
I know the all the bolts and bearings are the same.
The part No. for the 750 is 62600-44B20
" " " " " 800 is 62600-44B21
I'm thinking of getting two made up 25mm longer to lower the back end.
Appreciate any input.
Cheers.
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ausibatla screwed with this post 12-16-2009 at 12:49 AM
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Old 12-16-2009, 01:01 AM   #5387
Chanterman
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Ausie, as far as I know the bore stroke was upped , the tank changed andthe rear spring itself was the only changes. the wishbones are the same. If I am wrong Bluesman and others will enlighten us.

C`mon Ausie , where`s the pics , I wanna see the old girl
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Old 12-16-2009, 05:29 AM   #5388
ausibatla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chanterman
Ausie, as far as I know the bore stroke was upped , the tank changed andthe rear spring itself was the only changes. the wishbones are the same. If I am wrong Bluesman and others will enlighten us.

C`mon Ausie , where`s the pics , I wanna see the old girl
Nearly there mate. I've already taken her for a ride and was really impressed. Just waiting on the painting and then licensing. Will post photos when I get the plastics back and fitted.
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Old 12-16-2009, 11:18 AM   #5389
i8lusaka
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Sorry guys but this have for shore been up befor but I can not find it so her I go again
what oil type du you use Mineral, Semi syntetic or fully syntetic
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Old 12-16-2009, 11:51 AM   #5390
BigBat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman
SR41B is just german subtype (restricted) of SR41A. Precisely same bike with different ignition timing, carb settings etc. - we just been discussing couple of posts above :)

And Mousitas absolutely correct - all DR shocks are same, only late 800s (91+) usually came with stiffere springs.

If you can afford Wilbers - I am envious. Go for it, you will be very impressed with result. I had different shocks on my bikes - from Ohlins to WPs and even on curerent VTR1000 I went for Wilbers. It's superb, I mean totally superb, with separate low and high speed damping, best upgrade I done to VTR. And it is "real life" shock more than most brands. E.g. reliable, easy to rebuild, well coping with elements, easy to adjust.
I am dreaming about getting one for my DR, but 4 kids and mortgage make me postpone it but I swear I will get one by mid next spring!
Its done, I bought the Wilbers! Including the ride-height adjustment option. Now I just need the bike back from the guy who is doing the stainless-steel-exhaust-thing for me. Can't wait! I'll get back to you how it works out.
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Old 12-16-2009, 12:22 PM   #5391
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This is my 600th post.




I thank you.




Seasons Greetings!
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Old 12-16-2009, 01:14 PM   #5392
Bambi
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Hello there,
an important point for Juss and everyone else with a high-mounted front-fender: Make sure, that you refit the sheet-metall-bracket of the original front-fender. Otherwise, your forks will tend to turn under heavy braking! You could go even one step further by getting yourself a better bracket like the one from Hessler's DR Big shop. Once, you could get a bracket from ES here in Germany consisting of a clamp for every side of your fork and 2 short cross-tubes to connect these clamps. Very fine built and very exact to adjust. And without the possibility to fill it up with mud and block your front-wheel while riding off-road very slowly.
Ok, maybe, this point counts most in Germany and our high traffic-speeds which make hard braking more necessary. But it's mentioned in our German forum everytime, somebody announces to install a high-level-front-fender.
Kind regards, Bambi
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Old 12-16-2009, 01:24 PM   #5393
mousitsas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i8lusaka
Sorry guys but this have for shore been up befor but I can not find it so her I go again
what oil type du you use Mineral, Semi syntetic or fully syntetic
I use any semi synthetic car oil without low friction additives (due to the wet clutch). Usually the argument against fully synthetic oils is that they do not have the capacity to do many heat cycles.
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Old 12-16-2009, 10:31 PM   #5394
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I would recommend you us a low grade non synthetic car oil or better still a semi or full synthetic Bike oil no lower than 10 grade ( I used 5 grade once but motor was noisy )
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Old 12-16-2009, 11:52 PM   #5395
ausibatla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 800rider
I would recommend you us a low grade non synthetic car oil or better still a semi or full synthetic Bike oil no lower than 10 grade ( I used 5 grade once but motor was noisy )
Welcome home 800rider. Some of us were beginning to think you had died. Good to see you're alive and well.
And with the engine oil, I've always used mineral oil 20W50 because of the heat here. But I've never liked synthetic oils anyway. I think it's just a personal choice one makes. I would rather pay $30 for 5 liters of Caltex or BP 20W50 than around $80 for 5 liters of some synthetic brand that's advertised on the side of a race car.
Cheers.
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Live it long and live it fast
'88 Harley Davidson Springer '91 DR 800 '95 Yamaha XV1100
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Old 12-17-2009, 12:02 AM   #5396
mousitsas
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I think I have read every single oil thread in www. No wonder why they are called oil threads!
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Old 12-17-2009, 01:14 AM   #5397
ztaj
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I now use an SF or SG 10-40, I asked the guys who did some of the work on the top end, and it's what they recomended for an old air/oil cooled single.
Also will start changing oil and filter every 3000k instead of every 5000k.
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Old 12-17-2009, 01:26 AM   #5398
MCmad OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ausibatla
Welcome home 800rider. Some of us were beginning to think you had died. Good to see you're alive and well.
And with the engine oil, I've always used mineral oil 20W50 because of the heat here. But I've never liked synthetic oils anyway. I think it's just a personal choice one makes. I would rather pay $30 for 5 liters of Caltex or BP 20W50 than around $80 for 5 liters of some synthetic brand that's advertised on the side of a race car.
Cheers.
Yep I'm Alive and well but thanks for the concern
I have other loves that I have been pursuing http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...07&postcount=1
But I will return and catch up soon and give a report on my last DR trip

PS, I agree regards your oil choice in regard to the grade, but I will admit to having a fetish for thin synthetic oils because your engine makes more power ( and noise with them)

MCmad screwed with this post 12-17-2009 at 01:32 AM
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Old 12-17-2009, 01:58 AM   #5399
Chanterman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bambi
Hello there,
an important point for Juss and everyone else with a high-mounted front-fender: Make sure, that you refit the sheet-metall-bracket of the original front-fender. Otherwise, your forks will tend to turn under heavy braking! You could go even one step further by getting yourself a better bracket like the one from Hessler's DR Big shop. Once, you could get a bracket from ES here in Germany consisting of a clamp for every side of your fork and 2 short cross-tubes to connect these clamps. Very fine built and very exact to adjust. And without the possibility to fill it up with mud and block your front-wheel while riding off-road very slowly.
Ok, maybe, this point counts most in Germany and our high traffic-speeds which make hard braking more necessary. But it's mentioned in our German forum everytime, somebody announces to install a high-level-front-fender.
Kind regards, Bambi
Thanks Bambi for bringing that one up.

Agree there mate, my 750 has a brace and new mudguard this time round after revamp. I had a high mudguard on and without the brace of any kind the oil seal went in one of the legs . I never felt any twisting etc. but I cannot put it down to anything else
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Old 12-17-2009, 03:37 AM   #5400
robmoto
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Motor oil.
This is a must read.
Google this cs all about motor oil, then after the page comes up click on
introduction to motor oil chapter 1, then keep reading all chapters.
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