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Old 03-19-2010, 06:08 AM   #6496
giankapp
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Location: Ragusa, Italy
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I'm sorry for my english may be I don't expalin with the correct words. You described correctly what happens. I would to know roughly how much the valves have to move down, 0,1mm - 1mm, 2mm or 1cm?
thanks
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Old 03-19-2010, 07:41 AM   #6497
bluesman
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Location: Hoegaarden, Belgium
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Giankapp, I think Zappa explanation on drbig.info is correct.
You need to have 0.60-0.8 clearance (it is in manual, not sure I remember it 100% correctly) between decompressor shaft (because it has flat side)and valve rocker in TDC.
You might have turned shaft 180 degrees or may be as you said you did not notice valves movement. If engine turns OK then probably it is all OK.
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Old 03-19-2010, 07:50 AM   #6498
ausibatla
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Location: Waroona, West. Australia
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inner fork tube

Has anybody got a set of DR800 forks apart and can tell me what size allen key or hexagonal bolt head would fit into the top of the inner tube of the forks so that I can tighten the allen bolt on the bottom of the forks. At the moment the bolt keeps turning even when I use a rattle gun on it so I will have to hold it from inside to be able to tighten it properly.Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers.
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:24 AM   #6499
Ladder106
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Location: Davis, CA
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Springs in, cap on top, place cap on rag or piece of carpet on the floor.

Hook up impact wrench, invert fork so cap is on the floor, allen bolt up, press down with body weight to compress spring inside and hit the trigger on the gun at the same time.

This also works with the manual (smack it with a hammer) impact driver.

It's never failed me. (A tiny dab of Suzuki Silicone bond...the expensive, never-drying, $25 a tube stuff....works very well on the copper on the lower allen bolt. Good insurance to make certain all you fork work doesn't leak out onto the shop floor).

The correct part to hold the fork is expensive and difficult to find (although it would be relatively cheap to make) Dunno the correct hex size bit it's about 18-20 mm. The shaft has to be looooong to get down to the top of the damper rod.

Lemme know if my shade-tree method works for you.
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Old 03-19-2010, 10:42 AM   #6500
morse
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Location: Estonia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ausibatla
Has anybody got a set of DR800 forks apart and can tell me what size allen key or hexagonal bolt head would fit into the top of the inner tube of the forks so that I can tighten the allen bolt on the bottom of the forks. At the moment the bolt keeps turning even when I use a rattle gun on it so I will have to hold it from inside to be able to tighten it properly.Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers.
Sr42 and probably Sr41 have a 21 (or maybe 22) Bolt inside. I made the tool out of an old sparkpulg in notime at all. (edit: with the help of two friends actually )

I have dissassembled Sr43 also and my tool didn't fit (I don't remember was it bigger or smaller).

Good luck!
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Old 03-19-2010, 11:36 AM   #6501
zappa71
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Location: Utrecht, Holland
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Sorry, pics are from a accident 4 years ago..
Both tyres went sliding on a icy spot on the road, kept the bike up by steering with the slide but slided on the wrong way of the road doing that..
And there was the white beamer, only thing i could do was park the BIG in his front bumper..

went flying just past the wind screen to the side of the car doing a salto and ended up at my back breaking the fall with my feet and elbows..

Just bruised my left feet, and umped for 2 months.. and my ball sack turned black 3 days later.. while there was no pain in that place after the accident or when it turned black

Bike needed a new fork, front wheel and noose and tyres, got that from ebay and the bike is still driven almost every day






Quote:
Originally Posted by ausibatla
Has anybody got a set of DR800 forks apart and can tell me what size allen key or hexagonal bolt head would fit into the top of the inner tube of the forks so that I can tighten the allen bolt on the bottom of the forks. At the moment the bolt keeps turning even when I use a rattle gun on it so I will have to hold it from inside to be able to tighten it properly.Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers.
30mm hex bolt fits straight in the SR43 fork [ SR41 24mm] , try to get a long one with two nuts 27mm wide [ this because the biggest dop what fits in to the fork tube is the 27mm one] and lock the two nuts against each other on top of the bolt..
[ i grinded the top 30mm nut i only could get to fit the 27mm dop]

With some extensors from your rattle set you can reach the hexagonal bolt and lock and unlock the lower bolt of the fork



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Old 03-19-2010, 03:34 PM   #6502
DRpema
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Hello guys! Im Magnus from Sweden. Thought i would cheer you up in the darkness of winter. Here is a video of me riding my 800. Camera is mounted on a XRV750. They shoot rocks big as bowling balls so you dont want to get to close there . This is my bike before rebuild and in the beginning of my "gravel career". Now (about 20000 km later) im still sold .... gravel is my thing. Nothing beats riding with friends in the woods and having a cup of coffe in the nature

Well .... rock on!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TCUdglSHoY

/Magnus
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Old 03-19-2010, 04:41 PM   #6503
zappa71
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Hey Magnus,

Looks lie a treat!
Some Dutch Big riders whet one's to sweden.. they still talk about those gravel roads
Hope to ride them some time.. here in Holland there's just a lot of sand.. realy deep sand and mud and realy sticky mud

Greetz
zappa
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Old 03-19-2010, 04:56 PM   #6504
ppe172
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I'm sorry for my english may be I don't expalin with the correct words. You described correctly what happens. I would to know roughly how much the valves have to move down, 0,1mm - 1mm, 2mm or 1cm?

I'm not able to look at my bike right now to see exactly how much the valve moves, but I would say it is in the 1mm range. It doesn't need to open the valve very much to release the compression, and if it opens too much the valve could hit the piston.
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Old 03-19-2010, 05:25 PM   #6505
ausibatla
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Thanks Ladder, Morse and Zappa for the info. I've already tried the impact gun and belting the allen key with a hammer. The problem now is the forks are fitted and everything is together, I didn't spot the leak, a drop on the concrete floor until 2 days after the job was done. Never mind, I'll get there.
Cheers.
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Old 03-20-2010, 07:12 AM   #6506
morse
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Check this thread out! (A valve in a Krankcase breatherhose to eliminate the oil bleeds).

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560697

Any thoughts, anyone?
The price is a ripoff, but what if it's worth it?
Let's hear it engineers.
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Old 03-20-2010, 08:44 AM   #6507
morse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRpema
Hello guys! Im Magnus from Sweden. Thought i would cheer you up in the darkness of winter. Here is a video of me riding my 800. Camera is mounted on a XRV750. They shoot rocks big as bowling balls so you dont want to get to close there . This is my bike before rebuild and in the beginning of my "gravel career". Now (about 20000 km later) im still sold .... gravel is my thing. Nothing beats riding with friends in the woods and having a cup of coffe in the nature

Well .... rock on!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TCUdglSHoY

/Magnus
Hi Magnus!

It's a treat alright! I have ridden on swedish roads. Saw a big moose (or a dear or how we call them). Luckily a black BMW 5 series flashed to us, otherwise one of us would have rearended that gigantic animal. That was scary.

For the past four or so years I have been able to drive my bike already on the 16th of March. But not this year. Waiting for the spring that is supposed to start today.
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Old 03-20-2010, 01:15 PM   #6508
DRpema
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morse
Hi Magnus!

It's a treat alright! I have ridden on swedish roads. Saw a big moose (or a dear or how we call them). Luckily a black BMW 5 series flashed to us, otherwise one of us would have rearended that gigantic animal. That was scary.

For the past four or so years I have been able to drive my bike already on the 16th of March. But not this year. Waiting for the spring that is supposed to start today.
Yes, a moose is really big when you get close to it. Ive had a couple of close encounters myself. Once we got attacked by one who defended her baby moose. Do i need to tell you that we drove like there was no tomorrow!! Its not for nothing they are called the king of the forrest!

If only the snow here can go away. Cant wait for the gravel season to start!
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Old 03-20-2010, 04:08 PM   #6509
Brendan J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morse
Check this thread out! (A valve in a Krankcase breatherhose to eliminate the oil bleeds).

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560697

Any thoughts, anyone?
The price is a ripoff, but what if it's worth it?
Let's hear it engineers.

I had a good conversation with someone about this about 12 months ago he suggested that a oneway valve is a good idea but recommended that it be plummed into the exhaust as close as possible to the head to use the vacuum effect of the exhaust. He claimed by doing this you increased HP by a small amount reduced engine braking effect on over run and increased engine responsiveness. I am looking at doing this on the BIG and my DR650 as well. Also by doing this you reduce the engine oil foaming up.
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Old 03-21-2010, 01:51 AM   #6510
ausibatla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morse
Check this thread out! (A valve in a Krankcase breatherhose to eliminate the oil bleeds).

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560697

Any thoughts, anyone?
The price is a ripoff, but what if it's worth it?
Let's hear it engineers.

It looks like an old PVC (positive crankcase ventilation) valve from a Holden red motor rocker cover from the 1960's - 1970's. Holden is an Australian made car that is a subsiduary of the giant U.S.A. manufacturer General Motors. It was for blow by gases the built up in the rocker cover. It was basically a ball bearing and a seat. When it blew the ball lifted off the seat and when it sucked it would reseat the ball. There's no reason it wouldn't work on a bike. It's simple but it's not knew.
Cheers.
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