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Old 03-29-2010, 06:26 PM   #6571
Ladder106
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Quote:
im almost sure that the bike shouldnt run on 0 turns out on the mix screws so im guessing some sort of issue with choke plungers?
It sounds like you were way too rich before.

If that's the case, your shaft seals should be OK since leakage here will give you a lean condition. With the better flow from filter and pipe, I'd expect you to have to turn idle mixture out past what is normal.........

.........so..............

..............somehow fuel is bypassing the idle circuit of the carb. The only way I know that this is possible is through the "choke" (really enrichening pathway) circuit.

Normally, there are small black seals on the ends of the choke plungers. If those are missing, or cracked, fuel may be bleeding by. If there is dirt between the plunger and the carb, the seal will be bad and the "choke" will be partially open.

I'd certainly look at "chokes" first.

Hope it works.
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:30 PM   #6572
Simon M
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Hi Brendan, I have a better idea. I'll assemble my BIG and ride over for you to have a look at it in August. I'm preping the bike for a trip across Oz from Perth to Melbourne, or Sydney, covering as little bitumen as possible. We are going to follow the Trans Line to Glendambo, but not to sure where from there. Sound like fun? Simon.
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:32 PM   #6573
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Wait...........

Fuel in the bowl is ABOVE the gasket surface.

I don't think this is correct but I may be wrong. If you set the floats per the manual I THINK you'll get a fuel level well below the gasket surface. If the fuel level is too high, you'll just be pouring fuel into the intakes.

How did you measure the fuel height in the bowls.....dunno what +1 over gasket means.
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Old 03-29-2010, 07:03 PM   #6574
Brendan J
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If the float heights are set too high this will lead to a rich running condition regardless of what pilot jet you are using. Too low will lead to a lean running issue. I always set float heights in respect to manufacturer specs and have never had a problem with doing it this way. I do use a special tool from Honda that measures float height.

Simon that sounds like a date to me but I will be hopefully at the Off Centre Rally in August keep me posted on some dates and I'll see if we can catch up. And some photos of your progress of the bike would be good !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:52 AM   #6575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106

I'd certainly look at "chokes" first.

Hope it works.
ill take a look..i think that might be the problem too. as you said, I think it already had a rich condition that was covered by the air leak through the shaft seals.. now that the seals are not leaking, its horribly rich .. also.. b4 changing the seals the plugs where brownish.. now theyre really black..

side note: i just drove the bike to work with 0 turns outs on the pilot screws.. it idled pretty good and no backfiring at first... came to a stop, downshift and began backfiring horribly and tried to stall.. next stop, no backfiring again.. idled perfectly.. should i call an exorcist?

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Old 03-30-2010, 05:58 AM   #6576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
dunno what +1 over gasket means.
1mm avobe bowl gasket surface.. thats where thee fuel level is after i set the float height 14.9mm as the manual says.. also HERE says that 1mm over gasket surface is about the correct fuel level..

am i doing something wrong?

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Old 03-30-2010, 08:32 AM   #6577
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Quote:
also HERE says that 1mm over gasket surface is about the correct fuel level
Thanks....I remember seeing that now. I've just never done that measurement before. Good information.

OK, so if the floats are good, I'd go back and look at the chokes.

Also make sure the carbs and the rubber seals/boots between the head and carbs are assembled correctly and not cracked or leaking. The common tip is to spray WD40 around the sealing areas and watch for white smoke out the exhaust if any of it gets sucked into a crack. Also idle speed will change.

Are you sure the idle adjusting screw was assembled correctly. Firs the screw, then spring, tiny washer, O-ring last. Is the O-ring in good shape? Taper on the brass screw is a constant angle and not notched from being overtightened into the carb body?

Just trying to shoot questions as you as reminders for things to examine.
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Old 03-30-2010, 09:07 AM   #6578
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TBH all bases covered I think by Ladder106, but just to add more questions :)

You mentioned both idle screws if I am not wrong - does it means that you actually drilled out plug that covers screw on second carb and if so - did you attempted to synch carbs?

Also which method you used to adjust idle? The one when you look at right spot by turning mix screw in direction that causing rpms to go up at beginning and then finding points where rpms go up and then start to go down again?
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Old 03-30-2010, 09:36 AM   #6579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
Thanks....I remember seeing that now. I've just never done that measurement before. Good information.

OK, so if the floats are good, I'd go back and look at the chokes.

Also make sure the carbs and the rubber seals/boots between the head and carbs are assembled correctly and not cracked or leaking. The common tip is to spray WD40 around the sealing areas and watch for white smoke out the exhaust if any of it gets sucked into a crack. Also idle speed will change.

Are you sure the idle adjusting screw was assembled correctly. Firs the screw, then spring, tiny washer, O-ring last. Is the O-ring in good shape? Taper on the brass screw is a constant angle and not notched from being overtightened into the carb body?

Just trying to shoot questions as you as reminders for things to examine.
i think all parts are in correct order and in place but ill recheck all that.. ill let you know as soon as i have time to work on the carbs.. TNX!
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Old 03-30-2010, 09:57 AM   #6580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman
TBH all bases covered I think by Ladder106, but just to add more questions :)

You mentioned both idle screws if I am not wrong - does it means that you actually drilled out plug that covers screw on second carb and if so - did you attempted to synch carbs?
there were no plug/cap on the 2nd carb.. my bike is marked as an E6 (31D00 on carbs) .. maybe E6s dont come with capped mix screws? my friend who also has a dr800 (an E6 too) dont have plugged mix screws either..

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman
Also which method you used to adjust idle? The one when you look at right spot by turning mix screw in direction that causing rpms to go up at beginning and then finding points where rpms go up and then start to go down again?
i set the screws at 1 3/8 turns out (both as the manual says for other models) thinking i should go richer with my intake/exhaust setup and it idled but very rough.. plugs were very black.. fuel level steady at 1mm over gasket surface (with engine on or off, no difference) dark smoke if i blipped the throttle.. another 1/4 turn in, same tests, same results, and so on, till i ended at 0 turns out for both mix screws..

idle is way more steady than b4 but still not perfect.. to my understanding bike should backfire very bad at 0 turns out or even not idle at all.. well, thats not the case.. not always at least.. as i said b4, when riding the bike on the street, at some stops it backfires very bad (as its supposed to with that mix screws setup) and at some other it just idles fine, no backfires.. also.. mid range is just fine.. no problems.. I couldnt test WOT here we have 60km/h top speed limit on the streets..

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Old 03-30-2010, 10:03 AM   #6581
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Bit simple maybe but the gaskabel is not to tight ?
And the idle adjustment screw can go down as much as needed?
That one falls in a other bolt, when that one is set to high you can't lower the idle adjustment screw then the hight of that bolt..

Could also be air leaking, do check the edge of the air box and the intake rubbers, when to tight it cracks open, best to seal it there with silicone..

Also put some grease between air filter and air box.. it will leak fine dust there when you don't..
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:20 AM   #6582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zappa71
Bit simple maybe but the gaskabel is not to tight ?
nope, its ok with plenty of slack.. and its brand new too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zappa71
And the idle adjustment screw can go down as much as needed?
im gonna check that too.. maybe i made some mistake when assembling the mix screw+spring+washer+oring and thre not sitting propperly..

Quote:
Originally Posted by zappa71
Could also be air leaking, do check the edge of the air box and the intake rubbers, when to tight it cracks open, best to seal it there with silicone..
But if it was an air leak, shouldnt it have lean symptoms instead of rich?

Quote:
Originally Posted by zappa71
Also put some grease between air filter and air box.. it will leak fine dust there when you don't..
already done that, thanks for the tip anyway ;)
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Old 03-30-2010, 12:41 PM   #6583
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But if it was an air leak, shouldnt it have lean symptoms instead of rich?

Yip, it shoud, it's a long shot.. but a engine running lean runs harder until...

But i,m puzzeled.. a choke problem shoud stall your engine when hot..
Try asking here..
http://www.drbig.info/forum/
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Old 03-30-2010, 06:28 PM   #6584
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Does anybody live near Cologne or around this area... Die Teile sind nur fr Selbstabholer. Kein Versand. Standort ist: 56593 Pleckhausen, etwa 70Km sdlich von Kln, etwa 130Km nrdlich von Frankfurt a.M. direkt an der A3 Abfahrt 36.

I want to bid on some stuff but the seller wont ship. It's pick up only.
Anyone able to help or offer advice. .......proper advice.......

Cheers.
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Old 03-31-2010, 12:25 AM   #6585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabroka
nope, its ok with plenty of slack.. and its brand new too.



im gonna check that too.. maybe i made some mistake when assembling the mix screw+spring+washer+oring and thre not sitting propperly..



But if it was an air leak, shouldnt it have lean symptoms instead of rich?


already done that, thanks for the tip anyway ;)
How do you measure the fuel level. Old float assemblys could get stuck. I had this problem. Once you have cleaned carbs an put them back together, there is a change that those float assemblys arent working because worn parts are litle different places than before. And if you had the old float valve dissassembled it might cause rich mixture also by leaking. Float not working proper way or worn out float valve lets too much fuel in to fuel chamber and then this fuel leaks in to the carb through needle valve.

I measured the fuel level with trasparent tube attatched to the drain plug at the bottom on carburetor like here

http://home.arcor.de/avehrenb/DR800maintenance.html

and found this problem. One of my carbs was leaking.

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