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Old 04-20-2010, 12:58 AM   #6751
mait
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Location: Tallinn, Estonia
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Thanks Bluesman! I will wash and lube the cable first and then go testing again. I saw a set those carbon plates for sale on Hessler's site with the same price as set of standard plates on ebay.de, that made me curious. Thats why I asked.
But it's good to know your clutch has lasted 100 000 kms. My bike has 40 000 on the clock and I found out it really is 40 000 not 140 000, previous owner gave me all service records .

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman
Don't do it. Those "hi perf" disks are more sensitive to temperature (work better at higher temps) and never last as long as Suzuki Big stock plates.
Check cable first. My DR clutch is not 100 000 + km old and still no slipping.
And I am using full synth Hein Gericke 10w50 - made no difference to clutch.
Once I had similar issue, went home, took cable off right away and washed out ton of dirt, really a LOT from my clutch cable, cleaned it, lubed it and no problem ever since.
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Old 04-20-2010, 01:40 AM   #6752
ztaj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent Hunter
Guys, I am a total noob here.

My DR800 SM has a lot of problems starting, even with new spark plugs and battery, I suspect it's a carb problem and since I am going to have to import parts into Singapore, I am thinking I might as well get all the part I need for a rebuilt.

What do I need? And where do I get them? The only place I know of is Hessler, but they are expensive. :(

Any kind soul has a cheaper alternative and can ship them over?
What makes you think it's a carb problem ?

Try cmsnl, link in first post on this page. Also try your local suzuki dealer, most parts are available there but you'll probly have to order them.
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Old 04-20-2010, 02:18 AM   #6753
morse
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Juss!
I saw you in the TV last night
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Old 04-20-2010, 08:44 AM   #6754
Silent Hunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ztaj
What makes you think it's a carb problem ?

Try cmsnl, link in first post on this page. Also try your local suzuki dealer, most parts are available there but you'll probly have to order them.
I got new spark plugs new battery, and can start after sometime, provided I drain off all the fuel from the carb and refuel it, or push start it like mad. (10-15 times)

And after starting, and riding, it can start again and again until I leave it overnight, with the fuel cock off overnight, it's the other way around, not enough fuel, and I have to throttle it a bit before trying to start it.

I have asked my Suzuki dealer they don't have any parts for DR800s at all, not even one lousy brake pad. :(
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Old 04-20-2010, 08:58 AM   #6755
Ladder106
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Quote:
And after starting, and riding, it can start again and again until I leave it overnight, with the fuel cock off overnight, it's the other way around, not enough fuel, and I have to throttle it a bit before trying to start it.
Silent Hunter,

First, Welcome

Next, I really didn't understand the quoted bit. Are you saying you have to turn the fuel tap off overnight? OR Are you saying that even with the fuel tap off the bike will not start until you drain the carbs.

If you fuel tap is leaking in the closed position and your float valves are leaking fuel into the engine pay particular attention to the motor oil before you start the bike. If fuel has contaminated the oil (by running through the carbs and down past the piston rings) DO NOT start the bike until the oil is drained and replaced.

If this is the problem, it would appear that the fuel tap and carb float valved require replacement. If your dealer at least has part listing for the DR800 they can order parts. Here in the States, the dealers have never even heard of this bike.
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Old 04-20-2010, 09:00 AM   #6756
Ladder106
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Hey Coohand,

What's happening with your electrical gremlins?

Also, what firehouse are you working out of. Nice that you can store spare tires there.
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Old 04-20-2010, 02:01 PM   #6757
zappa71
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The 750 can leak fuel in to the engine, never heard about a 800 doing that..

But the part of the fuel cock closed or open for a night is also unclear to me
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Old 04-20-2010, 11:04 PM   #6758
mait
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Silent Hunter,
I suspect you have problems with mixture if it is hard to start when engine is cold and easier to start with hot engine. Check the color of your sparkplugs first. Do you smell a lot of gasoline when trying to start cold engine? Closing fuel tap overnight is essential, even if you are sure your carbs don't leak.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent Hunter
I got new spark plugs new battery, and can start after sometime, provided I drain off all the fuel from the carb and refuel it, or push start it like mad. (10-15 times)

And after starting, and riding, it can start again and again until I leave it overnight, with the fuel cock off overnight, it's the other way around, not enough fuel, and I have to throttle it a bit before trying to start it.

I have asked my Suzuki dealer they don't have any parts for DR800s at all, not even one lousy brake pad. :(
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:15 AM   #6759
Brendan J
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Idling Problem

G'day guys I have a problem that has me a little stumped. I have the bike set to idle at about 1500 rpm (1300 is standard) but the bike keeps stalling all the time but restarts immediately then after a short while it stalls again. I have the air mixture screws set at 1.5 turns (as per manual) I also have standard pilot jets fitted and new float assemblies and set the float height at 14.5mm as recommended by Suzuki. I have also stripped the fuel pump and checked it all is ok. Checked the plugs all fine and gap is set at 0.9mm. As some of you know I do have a different exhaust system fitted along with standard and new stock air filter.
Can anyone shed some light on my problem ???
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:37 AM   #6760
bluesman
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Hmm...I had used my DR with full stock setup with 2 different non-stock non-restrictive cans and never had this issue.
But in distant past I had exactly same problem with little known Honda VT250F. If I leave it on idle it is all ok for few mins then suddenly stalls.
Turned out it had to do with air mixture screw. Top of needle broke off. and we never noticed. E.g. it was as if air screw was almost removed.
Made a new one using piece of brass and rough imitation of lathe and problem never came back.
But since you say your carbs are in top shape now it's a bit of puzzle. Hmmm. You sure ignition coils are OK?
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:59 AM   #6761
robmoto
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Brendan maybe there is a little piece of crap and some times turns sideways and blocks, drain carbs and give it a good floggin as pilots work right through the rev range and the vibration my work it loose.
Get rid of them and put on some pumpers is the best advice.
Check for intake air leaks as well.
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:31 AM   #6762
Ladder106
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Brendan,

To add to the others advice, I consider the standard air screw specification to be a starting point for adjustment.

Your climate humidity, temperature and altitude all greatly affect mixture. Add the exhaust can and I'd bet that the standard screw settings would change a bit.

I'd try going richer about 1/2 turn. Best way is to set idle to best speed/smoothest tick-over with the bike warm. It is difficult to get in there with a screwdriver without burning the hands.

If you try this, just richen the screws a bit and see if idle speed/smoothness picks up a bit. If not try leaner until the bike starts to stumble and maybe stall, then back screws out for best idle. As idle speed picks up adjust with stop screw and keep looking for best idle. Don't worry if you're a turn or even two (well that's pushing it a bit) different from standard. The engine will tell you what it likes and that's what's important.
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:47 AM   #6763
jabroka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan J
G'day guys I have a problem that has me a little stumped. I have the bike set to idle at about 1500 rpm (1300 is standard) but the bike keeps stalling all the time but restarts immediately then after a short while it stalls again. I have the air mixture screws set at 1.5 turns (as per manual) I also have standard pilot jets fitted and new float assemblies and set the float height at 14.5mm as recommended by Suzuki. I have also stripped the fuel pump and checked it all is ok. Checked the plugs all fine and gap is set at 0.9mm. As some of you know I do have a different exhaust system fitted along with standard and new stock air filter.
Can anyone shed some light on my problem ???
sounds very similar to my carb problems.. how do the sparkplugs look?

i have a video somwhere of the bike weird idling.. ill post it tonight.. sounds like we have a very similar issue

carb update: installed brand new floater assys.. the problem persists.. im kinda loosing patience so ill let it alone for a couple of weeks to cool things down b4 i set it on fire
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:57 AM   #6764
zappa71
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Stalling when running stationary come normally from worn down needle jet and jet needle, some where around the 50.000km+
If it ain't that i would start looking at the electric part.. left side spark plug a bit loose at the bougie, spark plug cables not tight on the plug, wires a bit loose or oxidated at the Bobine's, side stand switch not pressed in properly and so on..
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:16 PM   #6765
vilguy
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Well i havent been on for a few weeks as i have been a busy chap trying to get the dr finished for the wales meeting of the large trail bikes... hopefully.. it might get there

today we managed to finalise the replacement "cheap" fully adjustable shock. It works brilliantly! The original one was fouling on the linkage

but we redesigned it and it now clears perfectly, also the damping adjuster is nicely protected and very easy to get too.

at the same time today, i made a replacement dog bone linkage so the bike is now roughly 2" higher at the back.

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