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Old 04-28-2010, 07:04 AM   #6871
robmoto
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The bottom cone in the headstock is the one I am having trouble with.
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Old 04-28-2010, 08:12 AM   #6872
addors1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoto
The bottom cone in the headstock is the one I am having trouble with.
hi there i just used a length of round bar if you look down the headstock you will c the inner race showing a small lip just gently tap the race out making sure you move the end of the bar round the lip as not to knock it out at an angle hope this makes sense,also try to use something thats softer than the race itself
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Old 04-28-2010, 08:14 AM   #6873
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cush drive rubbers

anyone know were to obtain these in the uk wemoto are not listing them are these rubbers the same as any other bikes thx
neil
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Old 04-28-2010, 08:52 AM   #6874
robmoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addors1
anyone know were to obtain these in the uk wemoto are not listing them are these rubbers the same as any other bikes thx
neil
Yep you are right as the manual sais that too, but there is no lip of the cone showing for me to tap it out, its a bugger .

A while back I started buying parts for my next restore job and did buy some cush drive rubbers without asking the price for a 750 through my local suzuki dealer and I do get some discount 115 bucks wow .
I have heard of using pieces of inner tube cut to size and putting them on the back side not the excelarate side.
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Old 04-28-2010, 09:39 AM   #6875
Ladder106
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Rob,

Normally I abuse my long 1/2 in. drive socket extension for use in tapping out the headstock races.

But normally there is some part of the race protruding into the space enough to get the curved end of the extension onto.

I've seen races like yours once or twice. My solution was to use a Dremel tool with the small round grinder disc. I made 4 "slices" in the race (not all the way through the race so as not to damage the frame) and then enlarged the slice enough to get a small sharp cold chisel into the gap.

Tap the chisel UP toward the top (or bottom) of the frame not OUT toward the side.

Try to remove enough material with the grinder so the chisel will crack the remaining race at some point. Once you have a crack in one or two ground areas the race should begin to fall out (unless the PO put it in with red loctite)

The job is fiddly and requires some patience (something we old guys have in abundance) and no adult beverages. The grinding is slow because the race is HARD. There are also two types of cut-off discs for the Dremel tool, a thin type and a thicker type. The thicker ones are less likely to shatter if you use the tool with sideways thrust. You will use up quite a few discs.Make certain that you're not damaging the frame at any point.
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Old 04-28-2010, 10:07 AM   #6876
addors1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoto
Yep you are right as the manual sais that too, but there is no lip of the cone showing for me to tap it out, its a bugger .

A while back I started buying parts for my next restore job and did buy some cush drive rubbers without asking the price for a 750 through my local suzuki dealer and I do get some discount 115 bucks wow .
I have heard of using pieces of inner tube cut to size and putting them on the back side not the excelarate side.
And if all else fails put a bead of mig weld on the race and watch it shrink and fall out
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Old 04-28-2010, 10:13 AM   #6877
i8lusaka
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suspention

Is the dr800 1997 suspension re build able?
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Old 04-28-2010, 11:46 AM   #6878
zappa71
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I just use a driver to get the low racer out, i believe at the backside there's a small edge sticking out giving some grip...

i8lusaka, what would you want to rebuild? ore whats the problem with them?
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Old 04-28-2010, 12:50 PM   #6879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zappa71
I just use a driver to get the low racer out, i believe at the backside there's a small edge sticking out giving some grip...

i8lusaka, what would you want to rebuild? ore whats the problem with them?
I will get a harder spring do to my kind of round nature and luggage so I was thinking to refurbish the whole shock if possible at a specialist.
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Old 04-28-2010, 03:24 PM   #6880
zappa71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i8lusaka
I will get a harder spring do to my kind of round nature and luggage so I was thinking to refurbish the whole shock if possible at a specialist.
You can get a spring for your round nature here
http://www.hessler-motorsport.de/sho...e72a5b4fb091a8
And advice how to set the airchamber to fit it.. just replacing the springs and oil and set the airchamber is a pice of cake

Taking them apart and replacing the oil seals to..
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Old 04-28-2010, 03:37 PM   #6881
i8lusaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zappa71
You can get a spring for your round nature here
http://www.hessler-motorsport.de/sho...e72a5b4fb091a8
And advice how to set the airchamber to fit it.. just replacing the springs and oil and set the airchamber is a pice of cake

Taking them apart and replacing the oil seals to..
Thanks mate, I was thinking more about the rear shock.
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Old 04-28-2010, 05:25 PM   #6882
zappa71
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Well, Hessler got the stifer rear spring to
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Old 04-28-2010, 05:26 PM   #6883
robmoto
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Oh dear I have just got out of bed and straight on to the little laptop to see if any replies from the brother hood and its 9am so it looks like no go to worky today for me, as there now is a major job to do on the bike.

Thankyou for all your wisdom and I will now put it all to good use,I will report back later today with the outcome of my endeavours,
thanks guy,s.

I must be in a good mood for once
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Old 04-29-2010, 01:08 AM   #6884
juss
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Tps

How about the throttle position sensor of SR43 - does it have a purpose? can it be removed?

i really like to get rid of stuff i do not need and which could possibly fuck up something.

*****

BTW - guys with severe carburation issues here - i can't help thinking your problems may be much-much simpler than you think and possibly not carburator related at all. Have you tried another CDI and/or TPS that work for sure?

if the CDI of SR43 knows how to change the timing, with the advise of the TPS - it can easily cause the problems you describe, in case one of them has gone bozo..

cheers, juss
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:40 AM   #6885
Chanterman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoto
Yep you are right as the manual sais that too, but there is no lip of the cone showing for me to tap it out, its a bugger .

A while back I started buying parts for my next restore job and did buy some cush drive rubbers without asking the price for a 750 through my local suzuki dealer and I do get some discount 115 bucks wow .
I have heard of using pieces of inner tube cut to size and putting them on the back side not the excelarate side.
I have inner tube in a "U" shape and the rubbers and it takes any slack out
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