DR750 & DR800 owners thread - Page 50

ppe172 · 03-03-2009, 06:18 PM

North Rider, looking at your pictures your cables and controls look OK to me. They appear to be the same as mine. And the bike doesn't look bad. You should have seen the tanks on mine when I got it. One was dented so bad I had to have a shop cut it open, hammer the dent out from the inside, and weld it shut again. The other one I was able to pull the dent myself. Where did you order your crashbars from?

atgreg · 03-03-2009, 06:24 PM

Here ya go NR

ppe172 · 03-03-2009, 06:28 PM

This is a good link if you need to get part numbers so you can order from Suzuki:

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr750-19...269/partslist/

NORTH RIDER · 03-03-2009, 06:34 PM

thanks atgreg . what did i not do right??? when i was doing it, it showed the picture but then only the link.

i buy tons of parts from ebay germany for my other bikes so i am looking at parts there, as well as "the hessler bike shop"
the bike looks fine aside from the tanks, i did not hear it run because when i pulled the decompression lever it had zero resistance on the second time. i pulled it once and it seemed o.k then i put it back in place and tried again and it felt like the cable broke or came loose. I'll check on it and get back here for answers later this week.

thanks

all

north rider

ppe172 · 03-03-2009, 06:42 PM

That's normal. When you pull the decomp lever, if the crank is in the right position, it "locks" the mechanism on the side of the head open, which holds the exhaust valve open. Once it's locked there is no tension on the cable. Once you start turning it over the mechanism clicks off. If the crank isn't in the right position it doesn't do anything and there will be tension on the cable. Either way is OK. If it doesn't lock open then the engine doesn't need the decompressor open since it will get a revolution or two before the compression stroke. At least that's how mine works.

Jack Rabbit · 03-03-2009, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NORTH RIDER

i need to see the handlebars and front brake set up on A 1988 DR BIG 750 . CAN ANY ONE POST A PIC ,MY FRONT BRAKE LINE IS " UNUSUAL". my decompression lever does not seem to work either.maybe broken cable.

thanks

north rider

North Rider, If someone hasn't offered yet, Send me your email and I will send you some pics of my 750. It doesn't have the original headlight assembly or bars but most everything else should be in it's proper place. Sorry to hear your luck about gettin a crappy deal buying sight unseen.

Chanterman · 03-04-2009, 02:00 AM

The bike looks ok and everything is there.When I pull on the De com lever it is always slack but nevertheless I hold it down an turn the engine a few revs and let go ....... whoosh we`re away, battery MUST be in top condition as the piston is like a bin lid. The wires on the clutch for starting are joined so I don`t have to pull the clutch lever in as well

robmoto · 03-04-2009, 03:10 AM

North Rider the same thing happend to me payed 3800 dollars Australian for some thing really worth maybe 1800 dollars sight unseen but thats the way it goes these days just consider it a challange and it will be ok everything can be fixed or made better ,regards Rob.

robmoto · 03-04-2009, 03:34 AM

Thanks for the info but is a bit much for me can I send photos to you and you put them up as you are the closest to me my email is taylorcarpentry@skymesh.com.au regards, Rob.

bluesman · 03-04-2009, 03:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ladder106

The question would be WHY? Style?

The radial side would certainly not be able to transmit braking loads into the hub as effectively as the cross side. I understand that is why you intend to cross it on the disc side. But why wouldn't you want the braking loads EQUALLY transmitted to the hub?

The only radially spoked wheel I ever built was on a bicycle. It was used for time-trials and had a very "vague" feel when using the front brake. In the end I respoked to a conventional (for a bicycle) 3 cross pattern.

Believe it or not but it is only way my 17 inch Berg rim agrees to lace to DR hub. I do not give a damn about style (hey, I am DR rider! ;)) and I really do not want to go that route given choice. I am stuck.
See photos.
This is why it refuses to lace normally - one side laces perfectly, this is other side when one side is laced correctly (thanks God I have that spare "test" DR hub)

Here is how I CAN lace it:

bluesman · 03-04-2009, 06:23 AM

NorthRider - email sent. It comes from my mail bluesman_ip@yahoo.com in case your email system spam filter is overenthusiatic :)
I attached some sections of workshop manual including all cable/lines routing stuff.

Your bike looks better than mine. On mine I do not even paint plastic if it scratched. I only paing and keep supernice all "metal bits" that are functional

RaY YreKa · 03-04-2009, 08:04 AM

Chanterman · 03-04-2009, 08:29 AM

nice one ray

, may see you around Lancashire

.

bluesman · 03-04-2009, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ray_rev

Pretty sight! :) Congratulations!
Only suggestion I have - change mounting system for those crashbars. They really to flimsy (tested unfortunately). To keep that nice look of the bike undamaged ;) If you handy with welder and angle grinder - one day job.

RaY YreKa · 03-04-2009, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by england 2

nice one ray

, may see you around Lancashire

.

That would be cool. Mini-meet perhaps?

Hoping to pick the bike up on Sunday.

03-03-2009, 06:24 PM	#737
atgreg Africatwinarama Joined: Mar 2003 Location: Sydney Australia Oddometer: 9,761	Here ya go NR __________________ 1990 RD04 Africa twin 750 350,000km and still going strong

03-03-2009, 06:34 PM	#739
NORTH RIDER Studly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2007 Location: THUNDER BAY,ONT CANADA Oddometer: 654	thanks atgreg thanks atgreg . what did i not do right??? when i was doing it, it showed the picture but then only the link. i buy tons of parts from ebay germany for my other bikes so i am looking at parts there, as well as "the hessler bike shop" the bike looks fine aside from the tanks, i did not hear it run because when i pulled the decompression lever it had zero resistance on the second time. i pulled it once and it seemed o.k then i put it back in place and tried again and it felt like the cable broke or came loose. I'll check on it and get back here for answers later this week. thanks all north rider

03-04-2009, 03:10 AM	#743
robmoto Beastly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2009 Location: Bathurst Australia Oddometer: 3,267	It can be fixed North Rider the same thing happend to me payed 3800 dollars Australian for some thing really worth maybe 1800 dollars sight unseen but thats the way it goes these days just consider it a challange and it will be ok everything can be fixed or made better ,regards Rob.

03-04-2009, 03:34 AM	#744
robmoto Beastly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2009 Location: Bathurst Australia Oddometer: 3,267	To Ztaj Thanks for the info but is a bit much for me can I send photos to you and you put them up as you are the closest to me my email is taylorcarpentry@skymesh.com.au regards, Rob.

03-04-2009, 08:04 AM	#747
RaY YreKa I Am the Mayor Joined: Mar 2007 Location: YreKa BaKery Oddometer: 15,630	__________________ IBA #40578 shine on, you crazy emo diamond

03-03-2009, 06:18 PM	#736
ppe172 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2007 Oddometer: 169	North Rider, looking at your pictures your cables and controls look OK to me. They appear to be the same as mine. And the bike doesn't look bad. You should have seen the tanks on mine when I got it. One was dented so bad I had to have a shop cut it open, hammer the dent out from the inside, and weld it shut again. The other one I was able to pull the dent myself. Where did you order your crashbars from?

03-03-2009, 06:28 PM	#738
ppe172 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2007 Oddometer: 169	This is a good link if you need to get part numbers so you can order from Suzuki: http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr750-19...269/partslist/

03-03-2009, 06:42 PM	#740
ppe172 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2007 Oddometer: 169	That's normal. When you pull the decomp lever, if the crank is in the right position, it "locks" the mechanism on the side of the head open, which holds the exhaust valve open. Once it's locked there is no tension on the cable. Once you start turning it over the mechanism clicks off. If the crank isn't in the right position it doesn't do anything and there will be tension on the cable. Either way is OK. If it doesn't lock open then the engine doesn't need the decompressor open since it will get a revolution or two before the compression stroke. At least that's how mine works.

03-04-2009, 02:00 AM	#742
Chanterman Gnarly Adventurer Joined: May 2008 Oddometer: 299	The bike looks ok and everything is there.When I pull on the De com lever it is always slack but nevertheless I hold it down an turn the engine a few revs and let go ....... whoosh we`re away, battery MUST be in top condition as the piston is like a bin lid. The wires on the clutch for starting are joined so I don`t have to pull the clutch lever in as well

03-04-2009, 06:23 AM	#746
bluesman Beastly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2007 Location: Hoegaarden, Belgium Oddometer: 2,998	NorthRider - email sent. It comes from my mail bluesman_ip@yahoo.com in case your email system spam filter is overenthusiatic :) I attached some sections of workshop manual including all cable/lines routing stuff. Your bike looks better than mine. On mine I do not even paint plastic if it scratched. I only paing and keep supernice all "metal bits" that are functional

03-04-2009, 08:29 AM	#748
Chanterman Gnarly Adventurer Joined: May 2008 Oddometer: 299	nice one ray , may see you around Lancashire .

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