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Old 07-18-2010, 11:15 AM   #7666
morse
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Estonia
Oddometer: 236
Hi Guys! Latvia was cool! Lots of gravel and so. Pictures will come soon!

I have an offering from a friend, that some of you might be jealous!
My friend offered me A complete chassis of Husaberg FE600E 98' without an engine for 300.- euro! (it even has papers, but I don't need those)

I mean WP Extremes, rear suspension, wheels, brakes and so on!


I'm just letting thoughts to fly here. Everybody, please feel free to help me decide what to do! (one possible way is to ride on with my beloved dr and just change oil every now and then).

This is what I'm thinking of:
1. WP extremes, with Husaberg triple clamps and self made shaft
2. 310 mm KTM disc
3. Husaberg 21" front wheel

4. Husaberg 18" rear wheel
5. Husaberg rear swingarm and linkage. custom made swingarm shaft and so on.
6. WP rear suspension (the suspensiongas "bottle" is on the side), this means a whole new airbox, something very custom.
7. Husaberg rear disc and Brembo rear master and slave calipers.
!!! The chain sprocket is on the wrong side... Should be managable though.

8. Thinking of bringing the batterytray to in front of the engine. This means a custom sumpguard, that has to be STRONG and waterproof.
9. at least front suspension has to be tuned by a proffessional.
10. The most expensive part carbs... The only thing that gives me headache sometimes are the worn carbs. Flatsides should make the worth while.
...... AND LOTS OF OTHER STUFF to do

Time frame: Let's say september 2010 - september 2011


Another choice is that I have to buy a new bike in a couple of years.
I have done a lot of milage on my bike and the chassis is wearing out.
The engine has had a partial overhaul and works nice. Maybe needs a new balancer chain. Otherwise it's a working horse.


Questions:
... Is it worth changeing the swingarm and linkage? My goal is stiffer rearend (aluminum) and weight loss.
1. rear sprocket being on the wrong side. What are the hard parts? Right now I'm thinking I will turn over the sprocket rubber bushings then find out a way to bolt on the rear caliper to the other side.
Also I have to mount the chain blocks and stuff....
2. Won't a new triple tree change something too much??
3. The travel of the forks? I bet Bluesman knows it by heart.
4. It seemed to me that I can't use the original rear suspension upper mounting. Husaberg's rear suspension is kinda more upwards and longer than DR's. It seems if I mount it under an angle, it won't move as much as I need.
5. Is it worth the effort to move the battery downstairs? I use a large ATV battery for reliability.


Thanks in advance!
And if I decide to skip it, then maybe some of you might want the bargain.

NB! My friend has a spare DR carrier (black). He wanted 20.- euro for it. Location Estonia.
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Old 07-18-2010, 11:22 AM   #7667
bluesman
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Location: Hoegaarden, Belgium
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1. rear sprocket being on the wrong side. What are the hard parts. Right now I'm thinking I will turn over the sprocket rubber bushings then find out a way to bolt on the rear caliper to the other side.
Also I have to mount the chain blocks and stuff....

If that berg DOES have rubber bushings of any kind in rear wheel - turn it over and don't worry

2. Won't a new triple tree change something too much??

New steering stem needed. Use my drawing

3. The travel of the forks? I bet Bluesman knows it by heart.

280 mm. On SR42 - no problem. And forks are 20 mm longer than DR forks. Unlike KTM Extremes. KTM springs available from Hessler or KTM to suit your weight. I mean - effect of those forks are amazing. a)no twist on braking b)small road bumps in slow speed seem a bit bouncy, but then you hit something BIG at speed and forks EAT it just SO easy, you almost do not feel a thing. Do it. DO IT!

4. It seemed to me that I can't use the original rear suspension upper mounting. Husaberg's rear suspension is kinda more upwards and longer than DR's. It seems if I mount it under an angle, it won't move as much as I need.

Do NOT change swingarm to Berg. Be realistic - DR is what, 80 kg heavier? And stock SR43 arm IS rigid to surprising level.
Use shock with further re-springing. USUALLY Berg shocks fit DR except airfilter box is in the way. You can modify that.

5. Is it worth the effort to move the battery downstairs? I use a large ATV battery for reliability.

ABSOLUTELY yes. Check my post about DR with ally tanks on Tenere meeting, 1 post above
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Old 07-18-2010, 11:41 AM   #7668
morse
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Estonia
Oddometer: 236
Thanks for the fast replay Blue!

I read your post about the low gravity center! I want it! Where can I buy one Low-Gravity-Center for my bike please!

About the swingarm! I feel a lot of bending on motorway curves (swingarm and wheel bearings are usually in shape).
You want to say that it goes away if I change the suspension only?
Maybe Sr43 has better swingarm than sr 42 (I have sr42)?

And I want to doublecheck. The forks travel is right for my bike? But I need new springs for the right weight. Tuning by someone (hessler) is still needed or not?

About the rear spring? I just need one that carries more weight right?


Blue! You gave me hope.
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Old 07-18-2010, 11:57 AM   #7669
bluesman
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Rear swingarm on SR43 just a LITTLE bit beefier. If you feel it bending - you feeling forks bending I think and mistake it for swingarm you Nm on your rear axle nut is below 80. I think. I mean - on asphalt my SR43 hadles like older sportbike, no flex. But when I had stock forks and tried to put Supermoto wheels -my God, it was all like spaghetti :) until I changed forks. Take into account that 96-98 hard enduro bike still did not have stiff swingarm, it is no sportbike, Berg swingarm is tiny and aluminium does not equal stiffeness. It equals weight.

The travel of forks VERY easy to check when it is not USD forks.
Put forks on bike, loosen clamps, mark current position, slide forks up until wheel touches frame, see result, measure it.

On SR43 250 mm is right travel, on SR42 FOR SURE it is more. So, 260 + 20 mm =280. But better to try. Easy to do.

Rear spring - totally correct, nothing to add.
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Old 07-18-2010, 12:00 PM   #7670
Megamoto
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: You know...I think I've been here before.
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Tony T,

I have a 750 rack. It has some damage as per page 510, but not as bad. I'll take some picks and post them later. But you can have it, just cover the postage costs. It's in my shed gathering dust.

Bare in mind, I sent a rack out to Robmoto, it took the best part of 3 months (surface mail) and cost the best part of £60 to post.

So, there you go. If you know someone who can weld aluminium...........
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Old 07-18-2010, 05:11 PM   #7671
Tony T
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Barossa Valley S.A.
Oddometer: 991
Thanks a lot for the offer, Megamoto. But think for 3 months and 60 quid I might look at building something myself.
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Old 07-18-2010, 05:55 PM   #7672
ausibatla
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Waroona, West. Australia
Oddometer: 421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony T
These bits are for sale.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SUZUKI-DR-750...item3a5cf349a2
Anyone over there interested? The seller won't sell outside the UK, but I want the rack.
If anyone over there wants the rest, I'm happy to buy the rack off you.
Tony,
both DR750's I've rebuilt have had a crack in the carrier. I just got them welded and then painted. If you don't wish to paint it you can just file the weld, sand it then polish the whole rack. It cost me $10 to have the crack welded.
Cheers.
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Old 07-18-2010, 08:38 PM   #7673
Tony T
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Barossa Valley S.A.
Oddometer: 991
Thanks for that. Yeah, I'll get it welded, but I'd also like to look at making something else to incorporate the pushbike pannier bags that I use.
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Old 07-19-2010, 12:35 AM   #7674
ztaj
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Nelson-ish New Zealand
Oddometer: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by ausibatla
Tony,
both DR750's I've rebuilt have had a crack in the carrier. I just got them welded and then painted. If you don't wish to paint it you can just file the weld, sand it then polish the whole rack. It cost me $10 to have the crack welded.
Cheers.
I was going to say.... just have it welded, I've had both sides of mine done, and havn't paid for it, but I have a tame welder to call on
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Old 07-19-2010, 04:04 AM   #7675
Berg2
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Location: Melbourne Australia
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So Shannon getting my DR750 but i still have one Left for Sale. $2750 Firm and needs a battery.
So why am i doing this, LOOK AT THIS BABY XTZ750!! Just have to redo the Front Brake lines, and away we go.
Comes with Tons of spares and a TRX850 Motor
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Berg2 screwed with this post 07-19-2010 at 04:24 AM
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Old 07-19-2010, 04:11 AM   #7676
Berg2
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Here's another Pic of the Bike $2750.
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Old 07-19-2010, 04:40 AM   #7677
HLK
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: The Netherlands
Oddometer: 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman
I am just back from Tenere/DR owners meeting.
I mean - all bikes were welcome, but organised by Tenere Club.
Bluesman! I didn't make it, as you may or may not have noticed. When I pulled onto the highway early saturday morning, the DR started surging/coughing at speeds over 110km/h and wouldn't accept more than half throttle.

I carried on for a while, but decided that it wasn't worth melting my piston with a suspected lean mixture and turned around, thoroughly p*ssed off The carbs are worse than I thought. Hoping to rebuild them soon.

Berg2: Dude, sweet.
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Old 07-19-2010, 04:42 AM   #7678
bluesman
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Location: Hoegaarden, Belgium
Oddometer: 3,029
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berg2
So Shannon getting my DR750 but i still have one Left for Sale. $2750 Firm and needs a battery.
So why am i doing this, LOOK AT THIS BABY XTZ750!! Just have to redo the Front Brake lines, and away we go.
Comes with Tons of spares and a TRX850 Motor
Since it looks like properly offroad prepared S10 I recommend you to reinforce frame in this well-known spot where they brake. You may get lucky and have one that won't break, but on recent S10 meeting I saw 2 S10s with 850 motor which were ridden offroad and one had second frame already cracking, another had it once. And obviously I saw at least 20-30 reports on that problem.
I have been told that 850 conversions specificaly prone to that.
I seen at least 2 reports on this site. Just google "supertenere frame crack" and you will find more details.
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Old 07-19-2010, 04:44 AM   #7679
bluesman
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Location: Hoegaarden, Belgium
Oddometer: 3,029
Quote:
Originally Posted by HLK
Bluesman! I didn't make it, as you may or may not have noticed. When I pulled onto the highway early saturday morning, the DR started surging/coughing at speeds over 110km/h and wouldn't accept more than half throttle.

I carried on for a while, but decided that it wasn't worth melting my piston with a suspected lean mixture and turned around, thoroughly p*ssed off The carbs are worse than I thought. Hoping to rebuild them soon.

Berg2: Dude, sweet.
Yep, guy from allroadmaniacs who rides AfricaTwin told me that you have sent SMS to someone that you broke down on the way from Netherlands...bad luck :(
You still welcome to come see my bike any time - do not feel down about it, once you over all required overhauling - believe me, DR will go for hundreds and thousands kms without problem!
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Old 07-19-2010, 05:15 AM   #7680
Berg2
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne Australia
Oddometer: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman
Since it looks like properly offroad prepared S10 I recommend you to reinforce frame in this well-known spot where they brake. You may get lucky and have one that won't break, but on recent S10 meeting I saw 2 S10s with 850 motor which were ridden offroad and one had second frame already cracking, another had it once. And obviously I saw at least 20-30 reports on that problem.
I have been told that 850 conversions specificaly prone to that.
I seen at least 2 reports on this site. Just google "supertenere frame crack" and you will find more details.
Thanks for the heads up Bluesman, the frame has been supported and the bike has been fully rebuilt.
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