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Old 03-30-2012, 01:04 PM   #12676
bluesman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Is this possible?

I was just going to start installing larger mains today but thinking about pulling carbs.

Do you remove the starter or fuel pump to gain access?

Love to see photos of the spoked Vster and TA.
Yep, that works just fine, no need to remove anything except fuel tank. But that's on SR43.
Removing pump helps of course, but not necessary.

Vstrom details here. Tomorrow we will make real good photos, but for now - this is it.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=347

Rear wheel off Caponord, rear brake disk of Gilera RC600 rally installed with 8 mm distance ring (thanks Lars for making it as it looks like factory part), 14 tooth front sprocket. Front wheel off Triumph Tiger 955i. I made spacers etc.
Luggage is Batanga (very good balance price/quality), thou I hate to have such huge boxes - on my bike all is "slim" to be same width as handlebar. PDOiler chain oiler, Venom (chinese) aluminium-bar handlebars adapted for stock bar, now I added LED 20watt aux lights on forks and made waterproof switch that squeezed between heated grips control and switchbox.
Next week I will need to install full GRP exhaust system and possibly modify GIVI crashbars (if I will be willing to do it - I am a bit tired, had to work on 4 bikes in parallel).

But transalp - just regular Alp that needed top end work. Nothing custom at all. I was coaching owner on rebuild.
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:30 PM   #12677
ppe172
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Is this possible?

I was just going to start installing larger mains today but thinking about pulling carbs.

Yes it is. I've changed the main jets on mine a couple of times without removing anything other than the float bowls. You need to unclip the fuel line connector and pull the fuel line out of the way. I used a small mirror to see where the main jet was and a 1/4" ratchet with a screw driver bit in it. Obviously you should drain the carbs first. It's fiddly work but it can be done.
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:12 PM   #12678
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Tip of the day, lay a piece of cloth across the starter motor area incase you drop something from carbs .
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:41 PM   #12679
bluesman
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Spot on Rob.
I also do it - last time I forgot I had to fish out screwdriver bit with mini magnet from that starter underside.
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:43 PM   #12680
bluesman
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I still cannot decide abut KN filter. I hate replacing them (every time I have to cut out top) but what worries me - KN got considerably less surface than stock filter on DR800. There is no "stepped" part on KN.
So, would it be more restrictive than cut-out stock filter...

Damn. Can't decide - at 100 euro price it kinda little bit of risk...
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:41 PM   #12681
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Blue you are probably right about the flow either the same , worse, or maybe and just a little maybe better flow rate.
The thing is if you outlay the money now you only have to do it once as you can wash and clean these your self, maybe saving cash in the long run.
Other thing is they are not good for dusty conditions, but you ride on the tar road , probably ok on dirt if you are riding by yourself and not following others .
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Old 03-31-2012, 04:42 AM   #12682
bluesman
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Rob, thanks! That got me thinking...end of April we going to Morocco, 3 bikes - on roads, no really offroad planned this time. No way I am going to risk fresh top end work on my DR by installing KN.
So be it :) back to cutting stock filters. Good think I get them cheap :)
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:44 AM   #12683
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I hope this works, it took one hour to upload one minute of video from last weeks Ophir goldfeild ride just a test run on how do do this upload stuff so please be patient .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36-3A...9dAUAAAAAAAAAA
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:01 AM   #12684
Ladder106
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You Guys must be Bloody Surgeons

Tried to remove carb bowls for jetting change on the mains yesterday.

Not going to happen. With the crash bars, fuel pump starter in the way on the left and the exhaust in the way on the right I was lucky just to get my hands out of the machine without calling for help.

Anyways, removed the carbs and while they were out went back to the SR42 carbs reasoning that they have one step (O-5 rather then O-4) needle jets and a replacable pilot if that circuit proved too lean.

Local shop only had 130s so trying them for mains.

Around the neighbor hood ride shows good smooth fueling down low. Ride today will let me know what it does on top.

I wish I could find a way to remove and re-install the carbs without beating up the rubber bit between the carbs and airbox. The part is showing signs of cracks beginning to start and will have to be replaced soon with a new bit.

The DR is a pretty tightly packed machine....not much working room.
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:45 PM   #12685
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@ Ladder... I got pretty quick at removing the inner gaurd, CDI, rectifier, battery and box, and shifting the airbox back out of the way. Seems to be the easiest way to do it, probly not fastest though


But you probly knew that already
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:46 PM   #12686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoto View Post
I hope this works, it took one hour to upload one minute of video from last weeks Ophir goldfeild ride just a test run on how do do this upload stuff so please be patient .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36-3A...9dAUAAAAAAAAAA
That"s awesome Rob, thoroughly enjoyed those videos, maybe you have saved me the plane tickets and I can just come riding with from the comfort of my office chair

The Big looks cool out front like that, not sure if you have said but what camera are you using.




oops you may not have published this one yet, awesome stuff

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Old 04-01-2012, 01:54 PM   #12687
Bambi
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Hi there,
concerning carbs-removal, I'm always lingering at the pics of Suzuki's own Dakar-bikes with the removed rear-frame for evening-service in the camp. Why didn't they give us this solution???
Ok, I think, they never were aware that this bike would be able to create such a big following. I wasn't aware of this at it's first appearance, too. I still remember my laugh-attack, sorry for that! I think, the reason for the original design of the customer's Big was to keep the dealer's workshops working ... I bet, nobody at Suzuki would have suggested, that nearly 25 years later their Big still would have so many fans! You can judge this by the dealers attempts to sell us things like the V-Strom ... a really good bike, but not what we're looking for ...
Kind regards, Bambi
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:02 PM   #12688
bluesman
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I find DR more difficult to work on than my VTR1000 - there all is very easy and access foreseen and well thought.
Dakar bikes did not have subframe at all from what it looks like. Looks like they had reat mono-unit with tanks? Am I wrong?

Anyway - Hessler's DR have removable subframe. I seriously think about doing it myself next winter. Just need to move some stuff and change wire loom.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:04 PM   #12689
Ladder106
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Yayyy!

Did a 350 km ride this afternoon. Pavement, gravel, 12 miles of single track. A bit of everything.

The bike will now pull to 7200 in top for 102mph (on the GPS with a 10-15mph tailwind). Fuels much better down low between 2200 and 4000. Nice and smooth.

I may be a bit fat on top but I filled up at the start and haven't got to reserve yet. Normally, if I see 400 km before reserve my mileage is where it should be.

I'm thinking of putting a hole in the airbox top as recommended along with drilled slides and a few coils off the return springs. I'll start searching for some type of flat air filter that will hopefully fit in the airbox top. That should lean things out just a bit and if too lean I can alway seal the hole up a bit with duct tape.

Watching Robs videos, mine now runs almost exactly like that (course it's not as pretty) Great vids by the way, Rob and extra patience points for uploading it with your sketchy sat. connection.

Rob, things look pretty green around there. That isn't normal for fall is it? Usually brownish like California. Recent rains must've confused everything.

Next is the dual headlight mod....Lars, are you listening? PM with questions coming your way.

Thanks for everyones help and advice

Ladder106 screwed with this post 04-01-2012 at 08:11 PM
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:23 PM   #12690
Ladder106
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Quote:
I got pretty quick at removing the inner gaurd, CDI, rectifier, battery and box, and shifting the airbox back out of the way. Seems to be the easiest way to do it, probly not fastest though
I tried just loosening everything and shifting the whole thing back. I only got maybe 1.5 cm. Not really enough. Next time, I'll take the time to remove the battery and actually lift the battery box up and back. That should make the carbs clear the rear connection completely and is what I need to preserve this part.

Thanks for the tip
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