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Old 04-06-2012, 12:29 PM   #12721
Ladder106
It's a short cut, really
 
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Oddometer: 4,725
Nice calendar photos.

I'm glad I wasn't the guy caught falling down on the soft dusty corner. I'd hate to have to look at my mistake for an entire month.....and know everyone else was also.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:26 AM   #12722
robmoto
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Australia
Oddometer: 3,603
Bambi I see your bike has made the calander do they know about the platapussy story its a good one tell the club boys.
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:13 AM   #12723
Bambi
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Linz upon Rhine, Germany
Oddometer: 603
Hi Rob,
I did it the same day as I told the story here ...
Kind regards, Bambi
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:26 PM   #12724
Radeki
DR Big 750 blue
 
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Czech Republic
Oddometer: 30
Big scrambler

Big "Scrambler"
http://www.motoinzerce.cz/motorky/su...big-750-s.html

and DR "harley"





Radeki screwed with this post 04-08-2012 at 11:34 PM
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:52 AM   #12725
bushybutt
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: New Zealand Adventure Paradise
Oddometer: 20
Heya Bushybutt, I trust married life is treating you well ? [/QUOTE]

Yes it is actually. We have come to an understanding. The sooner I get work around the house finished, the sooner I can start building the motard.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:58 AM   #12726
jabroka
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Oddometer: 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by adventurechas View Post
thanks for the info, and the fast repply, do you know, or anyone knows if hessler parts can be shipped to the usa?? any experience buying from him?
ADV.. If you are in the USA or you can receive stuff there, just buy sprockets on ebay..

You can have them in the number of teeth you want from 42 to 50 and even alloy ones if you want to go light.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JT-SPROCKETS...sories&vxp=mtr

If you want alloy, just search for early 80's RM500 sprockets, same bolt pattern.

Now the fronts are another matter.. there are no DR800 front sprockets on ebay as far as my searching abilities go, but you can fit DR650 sprockets with some mods, look at this schematics:

Of course, you have to buy a matching 520 chain to fit those sprockets, but that is an easy find..

DR800:



DR650

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Old 04-09-2012, 11:10 AM   #12727
Ladder106
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Location: Davis, CA
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Interesting.....but

Radeki,

Those are some interesting modifications. The "scrambler" model appeals but those other two, while well done, strike me as a bit odd.

It's an awful lot of work to go through to take the performance of the bike back about 50 years. I can see the "military" model retains the rear suspension. but the last one has me confused. I see the spring and shock but then it looks like the rear sub-frame bolts directly under the seat???

Is there a lot of unwanted Big tank/beak and body work for sale in the Czech Republic?
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:53 PM   #12728
bluesman
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Hoegaarden, Belgium
Oddometer: 3,078
Guys,
Wanted to share some info - perhaps will help...

So, after wrestling with leaking aftermarket float valves (back to stock) and fixing all and each piece had first proper ride out after top-end rebuild. I mean - over 150 km of twisties.
Result - NICE! It pays off to have valves, head and barrel done by company, who does industrial and Mercedes motors.
Compression really high.
BUT.
As result - with old story about bike starter struggling when choke on - both of batteries I had were unable to crank bike.
I have to cranck it over (just barely) then choke off and attempt to start.
I connected both batteries in parallel and bike did start just fine. Obviously it only had about 250-300 km run, so it is early for new top end, but it appears both of my batteries are cooked. They do not keep charge well over few days and just CCA is down.
So, one of my good friends told me about Motobatt batteries he used. I looked up - those have 190 CCA and 16.5 Ah vs. 12 Ah of usual cheaper ones.
I ordered one.
I will let you know how it will go, I must have reliable battery for my Morocco ride - and perhaps this one is answer.
I had bad experience with almost every popular brand including VARTA, so.. one hope for breakthrough.

We also chipped in and ordered AFR1 fuel ratio logger-sensor kit for 3 of us. No more guessing for carbs tuning!!!

260 euro plus postage from Findland. Recommended by guys I know..
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:02 PM   #12729
the_sad_punk
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Location: Eire
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Saw this over on .info site and had not seen it before as it supplemental appendix to the 96 model it seems. Compliments to Zappa. Ps anyone heard from him?

Should result in less slack..?
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:26 AM   #12730
bluesman
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Location: Hoegaarden, Belgium
Oddometer: 3,078
Ahm....this and valve clearances from 91 (not 96, this is appendix to 91) kinda known Suzuki workshop manual culprits.

This is how I been adjusting it from beginning and it is right way - unlike older model addendum in manual.
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:29 AM   #12731
Resi
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Colum,

the last time I'd seen him was at the Peelrijders Offroadritt in Handel/NL.

I have a repair manual at home including the '96 procedure of chain tensoning.
In private, I don't know anybody who tensions the balancer this way... Even the Suzuki garage around the corner...

Dubious to put 15Nm on a with 35-43Nm tightened nut... for me.
Even though it makes sense to squeeze out the last slack in the chain train...

Cheers,
LarS
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:46 AM   #12732
bluesman
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Lars, you lost me there...
what you mean putting 15 on 35-43 nut? You mean sprocket nut or....?
The tensioner slide on SR43 get's caught with friction on chain stopping spring from pulling slack out all the way.
I always use "2 wrenches" process - except I never really do it with dyno wrench etc. etc. - this is for dealer mechanics :) who usually very good at breaking pieces of bike by using pneumatic wrench on everything (lazy bastards).
Just using 2 ratchets to let spring pull slack out and that's it.
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:02 AM   #12733
the_sad_punk
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Location: Eire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Resi View Post
Colum,

the last time I'd seen him was at the Peelrijders Offroadritt in Handel/NL.

I have a repair manual at home including the '96 procedure of chain tensoning.
In private, I don't know anybody who tensions the balancer this way... Even the Suzuki garage around the corner...

Dubious to put 15Nm on a with 35-43Nm tightened nut... for me.
Even though it makes sense to squeeze out the last slack in the chain train...

Cheers,
LarS

Good to hear hes still kicking, he went radio silent there for ages and owe him thanks for info on the DR when rebuilding.
Id never seen this method before (just used the usual method in the manual like below)

I though with the tensioning of number '7' like that it might have taken more slack up for the spring to eat up? I have a slight chainy noise at 4k ish and want to try this method to see if it goes away.
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:16 AM   #12734
bluesman
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Location: Hoegaarden, Belgium
Oddometer: 3,078
This is correct, it will take bit more slack - but whirring noise will be there anyway.
I must admit I never did it on new balancer chain. Only on slightly worn ones on both engines.
But I never really watched for 15 nm at all, as I said - I simply use 2 ratchets to take out a bit more slack before tightening nuts. As I said - I guess this is more of precaution for dealership mechanics who are too keen on powertools.
However, if fixation bolt 1 almost at end of tread - you need new chain anyway...
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:27 AM   #12735
Resi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman View Post
Lars, you lost me there...
Uh-oh... Sorry mate

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman View Post
what you mean putting 15 on 35-43 nut? You mean sprocket nut or....?
Right. I lost some words during translation from head to keyboard...

I tension the chain the "old way", too... Engine on TDC, loosen the two M8 and one M4 screws on tensioner, moving the tensioner by finger (in case the tensioner gets stuck by friction or whatever), tighten M8 and putting M4 to contact M8.
Et voila.

Cheers,
Lars
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