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Old 06-20-2012, 04:34 AM   #13261
Bambi
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Location: Linz upon Rhine, Germany
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Hello Igor,
that's ok! There'll be still possibilities in the future ...
Kind regards, Bambi
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Old 06-21-2012, 03:31 AM   #13262
Geo-Nemesis
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Hi!

Hi guys, I'm a new DR big Fan / rider. I bought an sr41A last week and today I'm going to buy another one to part out.
already done 300km with the bike and the ignition key is gone I have to weld a wire...

I am a little concerned about a "bad? " noise, that looks like the chain to me.
can someone give me some inputs?
here is a video of the noise the thumper is making!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixLa3Inhv6Q&feature=plcp

thanks you guys!
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:20 AM   #13263
jimbobthebear
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Sounds like it could be a slack Balancer chain. Mine sounded like that when I first got it and it was majorly slack.

Download a workshop manual for all the "How to's". It's easy enough to check and tighten if necessary.


jimbobthebear screwed with this post 06-21-2012 at 07:25 AM
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:03 AM   #13264
Resi
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Location: Nassau Area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d33t View Post
Hi. I currently assembling engine back and need an advice in one thing: how to put magneto rotor on it's place?
Currently they stand in such position (black - rotor, red - crankshaft):




there are free space between end of rotor and end of crankshaft and the overrunning clutch is play (about 5mm) on the shaft. Is it normal?

Howdy,

as mentioned in the UK forums I put pictures of this afternoons assembly here, too:

The distance between outermost part of crank to the starter clutch is at 37.8mm:



When putting the rotor on the crank by hand there's a small gap, even when the conic parts meet:



The distance is 11.5mm.

When finally mounted there's about 1.5mm space where the starter clutch can move axially.

Cheers,
Lars
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Old 06-24-2012, 12:41 PM   #13265
d33t
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Resi, thanks. It is very helpful info for me. Will check this gaps tomorrow.
And this is current state of my DR:




installed engine in the frame today
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Old 06-25-2012, 06:48 AM   #13266
Vistar
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Location: Zurich, Switzerland
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Hi Big experst..

Would like to hear ,if you have any experience, about wich carburator would function best in high altitudes(like the Andes in Bolivia), and also big changes in Altitudes.
Bike is SR43 ,and i have a brand new set of BST 33,and Laser exhaust(street legal),both not yet on the bike, but considering buying the TM 36.
generally,i would like to keep lower fuel consumption that the BST have,but if the Pumpers function superiorly also in high altitudes, than i will invest the money in them, and the extra fuel charge that will come traveling a continent with them ..
If they proof to be more complicated and sensitive,maybe better invest the money with Wilbers, even though after Robs experiense, i'm little hesitating.
decisions..
would love to hear your opinions.

Cheers
Vistar
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Old 06-25-2012, 12:38 PM   #13267
Ladder106
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I think in general, the CV (standard) carbs will handle higher altitudes better.

That being said.....if you're going to 14000 ft, you'll likely have to rejet or at least turn your idle mixture screw way in (lean) since you'll be running so rich.

Invest in an extended mixture screw from Resi to make this easier to do on the roadside.

I've have my Wilbers since January...No problems at all so far. It will be work it's weight in gold on a long trip over the standard rear shock.
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Old 06-25-2012, 12:47 PM   #13268
bluesman
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I've tested my DR with CVs up to 3200 meters - had to turn screw in to hold idle, otherwise it did run fine.

I have wilbers on my VTR since 2004 and I had Wilbers on my DR for 3 years with no single issue.
To be honest I think Rob was unlucky with his shock, but at least Wilbers did stick to 5 years warranty for him.
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:43 PM   #13269
robmoto
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If you go the pumpers I would allso tell Stefen about the high altitude where you are riding and he would make changes to the jetting maybe, see what he thinks, I have found that the mixture scews only need to be 1/3 to half a turn out for me where I ride.
I get very good milage/ kpl when going on trips on flat plain country 21kpl and very good performance when screwing on the throttle.
Our mountains down under are only ant hills compared to what you blokes have up north.
You can buy different throttle cables and twist grips too but for on road I prefer the standard single cable set up, and allso the nipple at the end of the standard cable is the right DIA to suit the pumpers. .
Wilbers will transform the bike and are truly magnificent, I just fitted up a SR/43 with help from the owner and he is very happy with it funny thing is the settings were exactly the same as for a SR/41/42 but SR/43 is heavier and 1 incch longer swing arm. the front springs we allso put in and it was written on the box to use 7.5 weight oil, standard is 10 weight why I don,t know because to me it felt soft and a bit gumby , but the owner is very happy so it must be a improvement to standard .
It was on this trip fully loaded I got 21kpl when on lower flat ground sitting on 4,500 rpm.
This is fairly high for us but a joke for you guy,s I bet.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:44 PM   #13270
Bigcaru
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[QUOTE=Vistar;18987155]Would like to hear ,if you have any experience, about wich carburator would function best in high altitudes(like the Andes in Bolivia), and also big changes in Altitudes.
Bike is SR43 ,and i have a brand new set of BST 33,and Laser exhaust(street legal),both not yet on the bike, but considering buying the TM 36.
generally,i would like to keep lower fuel consumption that the BST have,but if the Pumpers function superiorly also in high altitudes, than i will invest the money in them, and the extra fuel charge that will come traveling a continent with them ..
If they proof to be more complicated and sensitive,maybe better invest the money with Wilbers, even though after Robs experiense, i'm little hesitating.
decisions..
would love to hear your opinions.

Cheers


My English is very bad .... in my country (Argentina) several bike (RD 800) has climbed to +4800 meters with original carburetors, removing these parts to improve performance (4 and 5) http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr800-1994 -sur_model13285/partslist/FIG-12.html # results

Examples
http://www.fices.unsl.edu.ar/~carlos/mweb/nueva.htm read Monday 6 and Tuesday 7 (google translator). (+4100)
http://www.panoramio.com/user/4890709 (4900 mts
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:59 AM   #13271
Vistar
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Location: Zurich, Switzerland
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Thank you guys so much,

it is so tempting to spend the money on quality components.
i somehow set the budget priorities. Brakes,suspension, and if some money left, pumpers.
the first 2 choises are pure reason..
the pumpers are agains reason.. they don't make any sense..
especialy since i have a brand new set of CV's lying around ,bought very cheap in ebay,
(not that there is something wrong with the ones still on the bike). was just too good price to leave them in ebay..
but i belive the pumpers will put such a smile on my face every time i'll twist the throttle..
so,it is for the grin effect..
Stefan here i come.

and as for the jurney, my friend and me are planning a 2xBig's through south America for about 4 months.
we both have SR 43s'. He is located in Israel and me in Switzerland.(originally from Israel)
we have now 1.5 years to prepare all,and set sails..
there will be more questions comming your way, even though last year, when i read EVERY page of this thread, i bookmarked a lot of interesting technical advices given by you guys.
Thanks again
Vistar
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:01 AM   #13272
robmoto
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Bigcaru
Thats some seroius height .
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:17 AM   #13273
Bigcaru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoto View Post
Bigcaru
Thats some seroius height .
Hello robmoto , yep ..... is quite high, but it has amazing landscapes and great fun routes.
if you want to see more I recommend this page

http://viajeros.freeservers.com/Menuppal.htm.

regards.
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Old 06-27-2012, 02:37 AM   #13274
robmoto
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OK thanks for the link, looks cold.
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:43 PM   #13275
Puddle
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Location: Canada, Ontario, Toronto
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CDI Unit

Hello all. I'm still trying to get my DR Big to run. My last report was effectively little/no spark. I changed the Stator for a new one, and I still have no spark at either plug. Ideas? I'm open to suggestions. I'm wondering if the CDI unit is gone on it now. Anyway to check this, short of changing it? If I need a new one, anyone have one they want to sell used. New price is pretty heavy. Thanks for your input all. Rob
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