DR750 & DR800 owners thread - Page 914

Resi · 10-16-2012, 09:38 AM

Gidday.

I got a piece 10mm stainless steel lasercut in the shape of the nut and built a Resi-special-tool :)
If interested, I can support some pieces for a low price...

Cheers,
Lars

shanekfalcon · 10-16-2012, 01:33 PM

Hi everyone,

Just thought I let you all know where I am at with my 800. After spending hours with carbie cleaner and rebuild kits, put it ack together and won't fire. It did fire once and when I stopped it, would not restart. I am very confident that I have done something wrong. Rob has graciously agreed to help me out as although I have learnt heaps, I am still out of my depth at this stage. So I'll take it down to Rob and take the chance to have it really set up properly and hopefully learn a bit more as well. It will get there, eventually, I am sure.

Regards,

Shane

robmoto · 10-16-2012, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluesman

I disagree. If this is the case - 690 you tried was really set up to run ultra lean.

690 vibrates MUCH less than DR Big. And - it is way faster bike. I rode alongside with 690 in difficult conditions not once, I saw it crash (and get minimal damage despite big crash) and it is really good machine. Which can't be said about 640 that vibrates worse than Harley.

Blue you wreckon you are no good riding on the dirt so how come this Ktm crashed twice don,t they handle .

bluesman · 10-17-2012, 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robmoto

Blue you wreckon you are no good riding on the dirt so how come this Ktm crashed twice don,t they handle .

KTM 690 Supermoto R. It is street bike on street tires.
Crashed in France when I was on Tiger on....spirited...riding on paved roads. He got unlucky - hit longitudinal asphalt "wave" sticking about 10 cm on surface on exiting turn leaned fully open in 2nd I think. I can't even think what could have happened to heavier bike. He crossed central reservation, bumped road sign off pole, flew across opposite lane and landed on opposite lane roadside. We thought rider was in bad way - I saw it in mirror as he was right behind me and it scared me. I know guy well and consider him a friend. He got off with bumped knee that healed with no ill effects.
Damage to bike - front plastic mask round headlight, both indicators, bent gear pedal (twisted badly). That's all.

Same bike was BETTER offroad in Morocco than my DR and friend's GSA. I have to admit it. Despite it was on 17" wheels and Pirelli Scorpion tires. And it really beaten to death except motor.
You can't beat 150 kg curb weight with 70 bhp.

Of course it kicks back when you need to do 5000 km rideout - it's not most comfy bike

and not most reliable

the_sad_punk · 10-17-2012, 04:54 AM

Anyone know the dimensions of the o ring in the fuel tap?
cheers!

Ladder106 · 10-17-2012, 06:12 AM

Uh-oh....someone's bored while waiting for the puller to arrive.

I didn't even know that there WAS an O-ring in the fuel tap

Resi.......any ideas of price for your special tool. If I can't come up with any local alternatives I'll have one, please.

the_sad_punk · 10-17-2012, 07:33 AM

I figured id fix my leak, sort the simple stufff first.
It seems nitrile isint up to the ethanol so im sourcing them in viton.
I remember someone mentioned the seal size, think it was Resi and if memory serves he wasnt definate on the size.
Cheers for the info on the rotor removal, il leave the nut half in and wont wear sandals!

mid-life-crisis · 10-17-2012, 08:13 AM

Hi TSP.

A bit more info concernng your engine noise. When you look at the camchain tensioners they should have a flat face where the chain runs. Mine when worn out had two grooves where the chain side plates run, the new ones where pervectly flat.
The picture below show the one out of my spare engine that shows slight wear but is still perfectly servicable.
I dont have the worn out one now but it had deep grooves just inside the outer ridges.

The starter clutch on mine does have some play in and out much the same as yours so I wouldnt worry about that but as mentioned before I use the decomp lever to stop the engine. This prevents the engine kicking back and destroying the starter clutch and starter motor. You can hear the kick back most times when you kill the engine with the kill switch as it suddenly turns the starter clutch and starter motor the wrong way.

Same as you I did have an engine full of fuel. The problem here is the fuel pump and float valves cannot hold back the weight of 20 plus litres of fuel. I just make sure my fuel tap is turned off when I leave the bike.

Hope this helps.

MLC

Resi · 10-17-2012, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ladder106

Resi.......any ideas of price for your special tool. If I can't come up with any local alternatives I'll have one, please.

Mate, I'll keep you informed ASAP.

Cheers,
Lars

Ladder106 · 10-20-2012, 07:30 PM

Rob, Resi,..anyone who has split the cases on one of these engine....

Is is possible to remove the output shaft (behind the CS sprocket) seal and refit a new one without splitting the cases?. I know some bikes are designed with a cast "lip" on the outboard side so you can not remove the seal toward the outside.

?????

mait · 10-20-2012, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ladder106

Rob, Resi,..anyone who has split the cases on one of these engine....

Is is possible to remove the output shaft (behind the CS sprocket) seal and refit a new one without splitting the cases?. I know some bikes are designed with a cast "lip" on the outboard side so you can not remove the seal toward the outside.

?????

As much as I remember you can remove the seal but can't remove the bearing itself without splitting cases. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. I've just ordered a load of parts including CS shaft seal myself, too.

wundis · 10-21-2012, 02:18 AM

Hello everyone,

Yesterday I had a bit of a disaster. After a couple of weeks of not riding, I took my big out for a spin, and ten minutes into the ride it died on me while running in the 5th gear. just died. using the inertia I did try to jump-start it, but the rear wheel was locked. Fearing for the worst I pushed the e-start button, and surprisingly the engine turned, but was turning with a weird noise.
Considering that the bike has 50kkm on the clock, and the previous owner "restored" the rocker arms (not sure what that means though), I was almost guaranteed that the problem was rocker arm-related.
And my crystal ball was not wrong:

Now the questions:
The parts of the exhaust rocker arm match perfectly, I do not see any bit missing. Is there any chance that some micro debris was sucked in through the valve seals (I will be replacing these too) into the cylinder? Should I get worried?

The reason why this has happened: do the rocker arms have the mark of being overheated - is it a part of the manufacturing process, or have mine actually been overheated, and broke? There was oil in the cam pool, general oil level at low level. Can it be that an oil "channel" was blocked, thus leaving me with no/little oil to cool down the rocker arms? How do I check that?

I would assume that I need to have both of the rocker arms changed anyway, yet is there anything else to change?

Should I replace the cam shaft too? (though this will get a bit costly in that case).

If replacing the cam, then is it worth changing the cam chain? As far as I could see the cam chains were ok.

Sorry if my questions are a bit erratic, I simply don't have that much experience with oil cooled engines and tend to panic now.

robmoto · 10-21-2012, 05:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ladder106

Rob, Resi,..anyone who has split the cases on one of these engine....

Is is possible to remove the output shaft (behind the CS sprocket) seal and refit a new one without splitting the cases?. I know some bikes are designed with a cast "lip" on the outboard side so you can not remove the seal toward the outside.

?????

Ray I don,t think I have ever raplaced one or was that long ago carn,t remember, but there is a outside cover plate and is probably for holding the seal in .
Use the manual step by step procedures for dissasembly and assembly , then you would not have missed leaving the rotor bolt in place with a few turns out

.

robmoto · 10-21-2012, 05:35 AM

Wundis, I bought some new rockers a few days ago and they are a grey metal colour all over , unless it was from taking the picture it does look as though they have got hot at one time, what does the cam lobes and the part of the rocker that touches the cam look like , are they still a nice flat surface without any wear and no lines on them if so just new rockers may do .
The best way really is to get the cam built up and reground with new rockers then you have 2 brand new surfaces that will mate together.

Resi · 10-21-2012, 11:16 AM

Ray,

you can change the drive shaft sealing from outside, not a big deal.
Possible that the sealing has a little undercut, depends on how long and how deep the sealing was mounted.

I use standart sealings, over here called "Simmerring", with an additional sealing lip.

As Rob mentioned, bearings can be changed only when splitting the case.

Cheers,
Lars

10-17-2012, 04:54 AM	#13700
the_sad_punk Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2010 Location: Eire Oddometer: 348	petrol tap o ring Anyone know the dimensions of the o ring in the fuel tap? cheers!

10-17-2012, 08:13 AM	#13703
mid-life-crisis n00b Joined: Jul 2009 Location: South east England Oddometer: 9	Engine Noise.. Hi TSP. A bit more info concernng your engine noise. When you look at the camchain tensioners they should have a flat face where the chain runs. Mine when worn out had two grooves where the chain side plates run, the new ones where pervectly flat. The picture below show the one out of my spare engine that shows slight wear but is still perfectly servicable. I dont have the worn out one now but it had deep grooves just inside the outer ridges. The starter clutch on mine does have some play in and out much the same as yours so I wouldnt worry about that but as mentioned before I use the decomp lever to stop the engine. This prevents the engine kicking back and destroying the starter clutch and starter motor. You can hear the kick back most times when you kill the engine with the kill switch as it suddenly turns the starter clutch and starter motor the wrong way. Same as you I did have an engine full of fuel. The problem here is the fuel pump and float valves cannot hold back the weight of 20 plus litres of fuel. I just make sure my fuel tap is turned off when I leave the bike. Hope this helps. MLC

10-20-2012, 07:30 PM	#13705
Ladder106 It's a short cut, really Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Davis, CA Oddometer: 4,258	??? Rob, Resi,..anyone who has split the cases on one of these engine.... Is is possible to remove the output shaft (behind the CS sprocket) seal and refit a new one without splitting the cases?. I know some bikes are designed with a cast "lip" on the outboard side so you can not remove the seal toward the outside. ?????

10-21-2012, 05:35 AM	#13709
robmoto Beastly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2009 Location: Bathurst Australia Oddometer: 3,244	Wundis, I bought some new rockers a few days ago and they are a grey metal colour all over , unless it was from taking the picture it does look as though they have got hot at one time, what does the cam lobes and the part of the rocker that touches the cam look like , are they still a nice flat surface without any wear and no lines on them if so just new rockers may do . The best way really is to get the cam built up and reground with new rockers then you have 2 brand new surfaces that will mate together. __________________ I ride alone and not a KTM in sight .

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10-16-2012, 09:38 AM	#13696
Resi Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2011 Location: Nassau Area Oddometer: 194	Gidday. I got a piece 10mm stainless steel lasercut in the shape of the nut and built a Resi-special-tool :) If interested, I can support some pieces for a low price... Cheers, Lars

10-16-2012, 01:33 PM	#13697
shanekfalcon Gnarly Adventurer Joined: May 2010 Oddometer: 115	Hi everyone, Just thought I let you all know where I am at with my 800. After spending hours with carbie cleaner and rebuild kits, put it ack together and won't fire. It did fire once and when I stopped it, would not restart. I am very confident that I have done something wrong. Rob has graciously agreed to help me out as although I have learnt heaps, I am still out of my depth at this stage. So I'll take it down to Rob and take the chance to have it really set up properly and hopefully learn a bit more as well. It will get there, eventually, I am sure. Regards, Shane

10-17-2012, 06:12 AM	#13701
Ladder106 It's a short cut, really Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Davis, CA Oddometer: 4,258	Uh-oh....someone's bored while waiting for the puller to arrive. I didn't even know that there WAS an O-ring in the fuel tap Resi.......any ideas of price for your special tool. If I can't come up with any local alternatives I'll have one, please.

10-17-2012, 07:33 AM	#13702
the_sad_punk Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2010 Location: Eire Oddometer: 348	I figured id fix my leak, sort the simple stufff first. It seems nitrile isint up to the ethanol so im sourcing them in viton. I remember someone mentioned the seal size, think it was Resi and if memory serves he wasnt definate on the size. Cheers for the info on the rotor removal, il leave the nut half in and wont wear sandals!

10-21-2012, 02:18 AM	#13707
wundis Adventurer Joined: Apr 2012 Location: Vilnius, Lithuania Oddometer: 19	Hello everyone, Yesterday I had a bit of a disaster. After a couple of weeks of not riding, I took my big out for a spin, and ten minutes into the ride it died on me while running in the 5th gear. just died. using the inertia I did try to jump-start it, but the rear wheel was locked. Fearing for the worst I pushed the e-start button, and surprisingly the engine turned, but was turning with a weird noise. Considering that the bike has 50kkm on the clock, and the previous owner "restored" the rocker arms (not sure what that means though), I was almost guaranteed that the problem was rocker arm-related. And my crystal ball was not wrong: Now the questions: The parts of the exhaust rocker arm match perfectly, I do not see any bit missing. Is there any chance that some micro debris was sucked in through the valve seals (I will be replacing these too) into the cylinder? Should I get worried? The reason why this has happened: do the rocker arms have the mark of being overheated - is it a part of the manufacturing process, or have mine actually been overheated, and broke? There was oil in the cam pool, general oil level at low level. Can it be that an oil "channel" was blocked, thus leaving me with no/little oil to cool down the rocker arms? How do I check that? I would assume that I need to have both of the rocker arms changed anyway, yet is there anything else to change? Should I replace the cam shaft too? (though this will get a bit costly in that case). If replacing the cam, then is it worth changing the cam chain? As far as I could see the cam chains were ok. Sorry if my questions are a bit erratic, I simply don't have that much experience with oil cooled engines and tend to panic now.

10-21-2012, 11:16 AM	#13710
Resi Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2011 Location: Nassau Area Oddometer: 194	Ray, you can change the drive shaft sealing from outside, not a big deal. Possible that the sealing has a little undercut, depends on how long and how deep the sealing was mounted. I use standart sealings, over here called "Simmerring", with an additional sealing lip. As Rob mentioned, bearings can be changed only when splitting the case. Cheers, Lars