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Old 01-22-2013, 11:55 AM   #13996
spen
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I have one of those on the right and the one on left in my garage is an 1150 gs
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:24 PM   #13997
Ladder106
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Frustrating.....

Something is amiss either with the float valve

or

With the O-ring sealing the float valve body into the carb.

How about leaving the float bowl off. Connecting to static fuel supply and moving the floats up and down manually. I know this is a pain due to the platic non-attached to anything float "tree" that is provided on these carbs.

Hopefully this way you can see where the problem lies.

Please remember to remove or turn off ALL ignition sources when doing this.

Don't want to burn down the shop.

Remember your FI bikes are new....I can only guess what those systems will look like in 2033. At that point, I'd guess you'd be wishing for simple ole carbs.

I've been lusting after a S10 for a while now....How do you like it?
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:11 PM   #13998
KilgoreTrout
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Centerstand

Glad to see it found a home I have found a local welder who going to try and adapt a stand from another bike for it. Thanks for the reply. Cheers Brian
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:18 PM   #13999
ztaj
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Just checking in .....
Yes Tim F.I. rules, but keep working on the carbs, you'll get them sorted eventually. Nice Tens b.t.w.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:20 AM   #14000
Tim
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Update!

I think that the fuel was still coming out of the right carb because the left was also over filling and the fuel was being transferred from one to the other through the breather hose. I took the float bowls off as suggested by Ladder106 and held the tree on using a large elastic band. I used the old float valve bodies and soldered up the hole in each of them, fitted them to the carbs and - no fuel. Fitted the new float valve bodies and put a finger over each of them and again, when I switched on the fuel - no fuel. Took a finger off and fuel flowed (under quite a surprising amount of pressure). It was then that I noticed that the new float valves and their bodies were a slightly different length to the (what I guess were OE) old ones that I had replaced. I therefore added 2mm to the float height and tested again - dry carbs

I have now refitted the carbs and have run the bike on the bench and everything is good and dry.

Thanks very much Ladder106 for talking me though this - it's great to have someone to be able to bounce stuff off rather than just sitting in the cave not really knowing what to try next
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:27 AM   #14001
Ladder106
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Thumb Well done

You certainly put in a respectable amount of time on this, Tim....well done.

I've learned something also and will not assume all valve bodies are the same.

Throwing ideas around or simply venting your frustrations are part of what this internet thread thing is all about.

It's always easy to give advice when you're thousands of miles away and not having to do the actual work yourself, but I'm happy to be of some assistance.


......Now about that S10??? and, feel free to add comments about the 660. We don't get that bike in the US but I've always liked it.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:24 AM   #14002
Longdude
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Carbs are good, I'll be freaking about mine soon enough...................but look at my wheel rims, powder coated in a rather fetching, in your face red.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:48 PM   #14003
Tim
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Nice!

Would that be by any chance a Marlboro red?
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:00 PM   #14004
Longdude
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Mmm, how did you guess.. Lol.
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:43 PM   #14005
Ladder106
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Transplant Complete

IT RUNS.

The SR43 engine fit right into the SR41 frame.

Carbs/airbox, everything fit with no problems.

I used the flywheel, stator, and ignition coil from the SR41 engine. This all bolted up inside the left case from the SR43.

A small adjustment had to be made for the decompressor linkage in the cylinder head. The SR41 uses the manual decompressor and the internal part of the shaft is shaped just a bit differently from the automatic decompressor on the SR43.


The 43 uses a shorter shaft with a smaller weaker spring.

When I tried to start the bike, the decompressor (once activated manually) would not reset and allow the valve to close.

I transplanted all the parts from the 41 engine into the 43 cylinder head (everything fit without difficulty)

The cylinder head of the 43 had no hole tapped to support the cable holder bracket from the 41. The head for the 43 still has a large boss cast into it so it was a simple matter to drill and tap a hole to support the cable bracket.

Once this was all finished, the bike started easily and settled into a nice even idle.

Whew....after a weeks work, I was relieved and excited.

Tomorrow I'll finish routing some wiring, attach the bodywork and go for a ride.

........Next, the rebuild starts on the SR41 engine.
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:39 AM   #14006
mait
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Good news, Ladder106!
Although SR41-42-43 engines look similar there are a lot of small differences. Thanks for recording this info here so it is available for everybody.

I just disassembled the carbs in order to clean and rejet them.
The pilot jets I took out were 40, main jets 117.5 and needle in the 3rd notch.
Everything like in Suzuki specs of SR42.
I will install 130mains and 45 pilots now because I've changed the whole exhaust from header to muffler and probably will modify the intake, too.
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:54 AM   #14007
robmoto
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Ray I carn,t wait for the outcome report..
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:59 AM   #14008
Ladder106
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Mait,

Rob says that the SR42 (800 engine with the older 750 style airbox) should run just fine with 125 main jets. Even with a more open exhaust.

I dropped my needles back down the the middle position but, being a bit conservative (and not wanting to make too many changes at once) have kept the mains at 130. This is using the standard SR41/750 airbox but with a GSXR 1000 silencer.

Rob,

Thanks for all your advice (and everyone else' too)

Yesterday I started the bike with tank off using a remote fuel source. Standing over the 800 engine without any body work on, I noticed at once that this engine was MUCH quieter in the top end than my old 750 engine. Overall the engine seems much tighter (it was at 37,000 k. when purchased).

The bike started right up once I got the decomp problem solved.

I noticed that the decomp. shaft that goes into the cylinder head is different for the manual (SR41/42) system than the shaft for the "automatic" (SR43) system.

I should have take photos but was in the middle of my S. Holmes diagnostic state tempered with abject fear that I'd done something mental and ruined a weeks work....so no photos.

Anyway....both shafts have a flat spot ground into the shaft at about the 9 o'clock position when looking straight at the engine from the right side.

BUT

The SR41 shaft has an additional flat spot that the SR43 shaft does not possess.

This, plus the fact that the 43 shaft did not protrude far enough to play nice with the manual cable from the 41 led me to believe that I could just swap all the pieces.

Everything fit together and the bike started on the next try.

The tank went back on yesterday evening.

The seat, bodywork and crashbars will be mounted today and I should have a ride sometime this afternoon.

I'll see if I find any differences between the 750 and 800 engine. But to be fair, I think my 750 engine is a bit tired.
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:26 AM   #14009
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post

If your slides require replacement, I was able to get mine from a BMW dealer. They are the same ones used on the early model BMW Funduro 650. BMW has these listed as a part number (slide and O-ring" while Suzuki makes no mention of this.
I thought you were talking about the slide guides rather than the slides.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:36 AM   #14010
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim View Post
I have just spent several hours on the carbs and one is still pissing fuel out

I went right back to square one and stripped them down, removed all of the O-rings and gave them a good clean, wash and dry. Dried everything and gave them a thorough blow through with compressed air. As I already mentioned I have replaced all of the O-rings and lightly lubricated them as I put the carbs back together. I set the float heights using a digital vernier calliper to get them as accurate as I could.

I stood the carbs on my bench and connected up my remote fuel tank, switch on the fuel and within a few seconds fuel starts to run out of the right hand carb. The fuel seems to come from this small hole.



I opened up the float bowl on the leaking carb and bent the float valve arm so that it was virtually closed even when upside down and them tried again - you guessed it! - still fuel leaking out so, how is the fuel getting into and overfilling the float bowl if the float valve is shut?
The rubber tip of the float needle should be inspected under magnification. It should perfectly conical, with no witness line evident where it was contacting the seat. If any evidence is visible, or if there is a gap between the bottom edge of the rubber tip and the aluminum portion of the needle, if the plunger is stuck, or if the plunger return spring is sacked out, the needle should be replaced.

The float height should be set to 14.6mm with a float height setting tool.

Regards,

Derek
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