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Old 02-09-2013, 08:15 AM   #14071
Ladder106
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Thanks fellas,

I'll play with this over the next week or so to try to "tune" it down to an acceptable level.

I keep thinking about that balancer chain and know myself enough to know that I won't be happy until I stick the original Suzuki bit in......so I'll ride a bit and then get on with that.

Starting to tear down the SR41 engine so get ready for more questions.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:06 AM   #14072
Longdude
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Hi RobMoto, Yeah, half a pound of lead was used (think it is the rear tyre that's to blame) ! Got the engine back in the frame today.................................as easy as 123.





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Old 02-09-2013, 02:16 PM   #14073
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Longdude don,t forget to use blue locktite on your nuts and bolts .

Ray have you checked your mounting nuts and bolts since the trans plant have a look at the ones under the tank.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:07 PM   #14074
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Yeah, will do. I've also added a lot of nylock nuts. That should help. Thanks.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:11 AM   #14075
Okta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mait View Post
I have removed top end from the engine. What I've found:

Compression ring - end gap 0.95mm (service limit as per manual = 1mm). Too close to limit.
2nd ring - end cap 0.45mm (1mm service limit).
oil ring top rail - end gap 1.80mm that is too much I think?
oil ring bottom rail - end gap 0.4mm

Piston manufacturers recommend 2nd ring end gap to be larger than top ring. I've also read recommended oil ring end gaps to be ca 0.4mms.

Exhaust valves are not tight, one has small leak, the other has excessive leak.

Camshaft cam heights 0.8 and 0.7mms worn below service limit.

Rocker arm surfaces are worn.

Camchain is OK, 20 pitch length 128mms, service limit 129mms.



I'm afraid Suzuki does not sell +0.5mm oversize rings any more, only complete set with piston. The piston is still fine (cylinder was overhauled 10000kms ago). I've been looking through all piston manufacturers' catalogs but haven't found direct fit rings. There are some 105.5mm sets available but the heighth and width of the rings wouldn't match.


Hi, I just ordered Wiseco ring set, like this: http://autoplicity.com/products/1629...ptartment.aspx

You have to get your piston worked (get a bit wider the bottom "line").
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:52 AM   #14076
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Thanks for the link Okta. I looked at this set, too. I decided against it because

1) Wiseco oil ring is 3mm instead of Suzuki's 2.8mm. It is possible to make the groove of the original piston wider but it is easy to screw the piston. Massive oil consumption was the reason I had started top end rebuild again so I didn't want to take any risk here.

2) I wanted top compression ring to be chrome faced like all dual sport bikes have from factory (at least the ones with iron sleeve in cylinder). Chrome plated ring will last longer in dusty conditions where plain steel or iron rings will wear too fast. Not to confuse with chro-moly that is totally different thing.

3) The most important reason - I had to bore the cylinder to next size 106mm. There was too much wear already.

106mm pistons are not available from Suzuki any more. So I decided to order custom forged pistons from a manufacturer in the US. I had to order a set of 4 to keep cost reasonable. The pistons should be here in a couple of weeks or so.
I do not need all 4 of them. Some will be for sale, anyone intrerested please let me know here or via PM.
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:36 PM   #14077
RaY YreKa
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Oh how tempting is this?

And I am stony broke

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-DR-...item3cceb5caf2
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:20 AM   #14078
Ladder106
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Vibration Control

Having a brand new official Suzuki balancer chain, I finally decided to use it on my SR43 engine rather than the SR41 rebuild (still waiting patiently on the bench).

I spent a happy Saturday removing the left case, playing with stator and starter gears and installing the new balancer chain.

I learned a few things along the way:

..The cam chain slack adjuster has to be accessed with a long standard screwdriver with about a 5-6mm head. The screwdriver must be inserted into the hole at the front of the cylinder at about a 30deg angle. This puts the handle well below the bottom oil cooler mount.

...After loosening the can tensioner (about 3 full turns clockwise as you look into the hole) you can maintain the position of the screwdriver by gently clamping the screwdriver shaft to the oil line. It doesn't take much force to hold it in place.

....The upper balancer sprocket can NOT be removed simply by loosening the cam chain tension. The valve cover must be removed, the cam sprocket bolts removed and the cam sprocket pulled to the left and dropped off the mounting position on the cam. This is the only way I was able to get enough slack in the cam chain to remove the upper balancer/cam drive sprocket.

.....Using the official Suzuki balancer chain was nice since it had the colored indicator links that make timing the balancer and crank shaft a lot easier.

......I noticed that there was a visible difference in the length of the old balancer chain and the new one. When both chains were hung off the end of a screwdriver, the old chain was about 4mm longer than the new one. Whether this stretch/wear will improve the engine vibrations of the SR43 remains to be seen.....maybe today.

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At present, I'm having a bit of difficulty tightening/torquing the balaner sprocket bolts. I do not have the special tool necessary to hold the sprockets in place and the balancer chain slips if I try to hold the assembly still with the main flywheel bolt.

Any suggestions or shortcuts here?

Rob and Resi, I know you've both had many of these engines apart. Is there anything I can do before I start to fabricate a tool to hold these sprockets?

Going to try to get the bike running today.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:18 AM   #14079
mait
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I used a simple angle grinder spanner to hold the sprockets. It was too small, the pins were a little too close to each other so that only one pin fit into the hole of the sprocket. It was not perfect but it did work. If you have one you can try if it will work for you.
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:09 PM   #14080
Ladder106
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Thanks Mait,

I remember you mentioning that now.

I'm in progress now so I'll give it a try.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:14 AM   #14081
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Ray, I use a selfmade tool for fixing the sprockets.

Flat steel with two pins for fixation and a hole in the middle for a socket.
The counterholder fits straight into the block.
I'll take a photo later when I finished work.

Cheers,
Lars
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:43 AM   #14082
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Ray a rattle gun used correctly is your best freind and blue locktite.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:00 AM   #14083
Ladder106
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Once again, thanks for the assistance guys.

Mait, my angle grinder holder was much to cheap and wimpy to even begin to hold the sprockets. Thanks for the idea though.

Resi, Looking forward to seeing the tool you made. It appears that it would be difficult to get any tool into the space for the upper balancer sprocket.

Rob, I know, power tools are your friend. I have an electric impact wrench that's old but remains reasonably functional. I keep telling myself that someday I'll buy an air compressor and a few pneumatic tools to make all that bolt twisting go a bit more quickly.

Anyways.....here's what I did:

I discovered that one can use the flywheel bolt on the crank and the installed balancer chain to hold the balancer shaft sprockets.

Fit a tubular spacer about 25 mm or so behind the flywheel attachment bolt on the crank shaft. This keeps the bolt from bottoming in the crank threads and makes it easier to remove at the end.

Tension the balancer chain....this is IMPORTANT since with no tension on the chain system, the chain will slip over the crank sprocket teeth and throw off your balancer timing.

Since the crank and the balancer shafts rotate in opposite directions you can now hold the 17mm crank bolt while applying a torque wrench to the balancer bolts.

NOTE: Be careful here and observe the chain slack. Slack still develops in the chain run between the crank and the upper balancer sprocket. Too much slack and the chain will slip......Incrase the tension in the system.

Then you can use an impact wrench (either powered or hand held) to remove the bolt in the crank shaft. You have to do this in order not to disturb the balancer shaft bolts. A few taps and the crank bolt comes out and you can now continue to assemble the rest of the left case bits.

......and , if you're like me, you will put everything together, stick a new gasket onto the left outside case and as your gathering the case bolts you'll notice that the long chain guide that goes on the upper part of the balancer chain is still on your bench....

...then you get to take everything back apart again to install the chain guide..

So, the bike is back together, oil added and running. I ran out of daylight to actually test ride it other than just up and down the street.

Sure sounds different at least. In place of a bit of rattling noise, there is a nice pleasant "whine" coming from the left case. At least it SOUNDS smoother.

More after it warms up a bit this morning.

Ladder106 screwed with this post 02-18-2013 at 08:10 AM
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:41 AM   #14084
aapo
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Yes, it really makes the engine sound good :). When i did the same for my 750, i noticed later i should have taken the balancer sprockets also from the donor 800 engine. I don't really remember after how many km's, but noise was back and i need to adjust the balancer chain again few times. But then i decided that it's just noise. Or one should just go to sit next to 640 lc4 :)
But ok, mine has some 100 000 on clok and think there is not all. I'm building the top end second time now... Lapland kils bikes or something.

And hello again, it's been a while i was here :) Had to do all sorts apartment renovation,new job, new baby etc :)
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aapo screwed with this post 02-18-2013 at 12:30 PM Reason: typos (wrote with mobile...)
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:00 AM   #14085
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Mates, this is my selfmade counterhold for balancing chain wheel:





My usefull friend for many years and engine build up's

Cheers,
Lars
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