DR750 & DR800 owners thread - Page 947

Ladder106 · 03-13-2013, 10:20 PM

I'd open that garage door a bit more, mate

Resi · 03-14-2013, 12:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aapo

HI,

Any suggestions for 2component glue etc. for covering stator coils? I'm about to rebuil stator.
Neeed to be resistant for DR's very hot oil...

I'd suggest an epoxi 2k resin like Araldit e.g.

Cheers,
Lars

MrPopples · 03-15-2013, 02:21 PM

Hey guys :)

still havn't found a good deal for a used fork to put on the DR Big ...
but I think I have something for the rear shock :)

I found a Buell XB12 Ulysse shock, brand as new, for 50 bucks ...
only problem, the Uly shock is 390mm long and the DR Big is 410mm long.

I'm wondering if that is a "big" problem, since the shock might be more progressive and might even make the DR keep the same balance ... as my shock is 80 000 kms old and never had any refurbishing.

it seems rather hard to find a used shock that is 410mm long?

Simosez · 03-15-2013, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrPopples

Hey guys :)

still havn't found a good deal for a used fork to put on the DR Big ...
but I think I have something for the rear shock :)

I found a Buell XB12 Ulysse shock, brand as new, for 50 bucks ...
only problem, the Uly shock is 390mm long and the DR Big is 410mm long.

I'm wondering if that is a "big" problem, since the shock might be more progressive and might even make the DR keep the same balance ... as my shock is 80 000 kms old and never had any refurbishing.

it seems rather hard to find a used shock that is 410mm long?

20mm is a long way to drop the arse. this will rake out the front end and make it handle like a wheelbarrow.
i used a shock from a 1992 husaberg. it needed some modifying though.
i cut off the reservoir and remote mounted it with a hose and used the heavy DR spring from hessler. cost me about $300 all up and a pretty good result.
your other option is the wilburs shock which from all reports is a very good bit of gear if you can afford it.

aapo · 03-19-2013, 01:44 AM

HI,

Has anyone put wide band lambda to exhaust system in DR big? Any good locations or component suggestions. I'll just try to get rid of speculations with lean / rich issues. (when i will get the engine back together)

-aapo

Resi · 03-19-2013, 02:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aapo

HI,

Has anyone put wide band lambda to exhaust system in DR big? Any good locations or component suggestions. I'll just try to get rid of speculations with lean / rich issues. (when i will get the engine back together)

-aapo

Hi,

I put these sensors in my headers as shown here:

Cheers,
Lars

ausibatla · 03-19-2013, 03:57 AM

If anybody is interested in my '91 DR800 then let me know by private message or email. I can send photo's or post them. Or you can check out the bike on Photobucket.
http://s571.photobucket.com/user/aus...80788297214483
The bike has only done 8748kms since new. I have registration papers to prove it. I have also found out that it is the only registered DR800 in Western Australia. I want $6000 for it so if you're in Perth or W.A. and you want to check it out let me know.
Cheers.

aapo · 03-19-2013, 04:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Resi

Hi,

I put these sensors in my headers as shown here:

Cheers,
Lars

Thanks! this is very informative picture. Was it difficult to weld? What plug or adapter did you use?

-aapo

Resi · 03-19-2013, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aapo

Thanks! this is very informative picture. Was it difficult to weld? What plug or adapter did you use?

I built this adaptor on my own, made out of 1.4301 stainless steel.
No probs with welding :)

Cheers,
Lars

aapo · 03-19-2013, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Resi

I built this adaptor on my own, made out of 1.4301 stainless steel.
No probs with welding :)

Cheers,
Lars

Ok ;)

-aapo

shanekfalcon · 03-20-2013, 02:46 AM

Hi everyone,

Its been months since I last posted as I've been away on a few trips and so on. Anyhow I thought that I would let you all know how the DR800 is going.

After a stay at Rob's place, the mechanicals are working very well; Rob did a great job fixing things due to age and also problems created by my own ignorance. I did have a small electrical problem develop but by following Rob's advice, I took the rhs tank off and found the short. Its now working well.

Went on a 250 km round trip up the highway and to a local biker cafe, The Bellbird Cafe in Kenilworth and the bike ran extremely well. Still some fine tuning to go such as some grip puppies to increase the diameter of the grips, perhaps some aftermarket levers; that sort of thing. I've lent the car to a friend for a month or so and will use this bike for a daily rider for two weeks and then swap with the V-Star for two weeks etc. Bottom line though, the 800 is great to ride and working well.

robmoto · 03-20-2013, 04:38 AM

Ladder106 · 03-20-2013, 10:28 AM

I've been working trying to get the vibration on my SR41 (with the SR43 engine) under control for the past few weeks.

I've finally got the jetting mostly sorted and the bike runs well in all gears.

I changed the final drive to a 15/49 since the SR43 engine has a higher primary drive ratio this give the same gearing as the SR41 with 15/47....or very close to it. This has made the bike much easier to ride and made the ratios much more useful.

Anyway.....Vibration.

I'm using Renthal Carmichael High bend 7/8 in bars on my bike.

The main factor I found in smoothing out the handlebar vibration on the SR41/42 is the state of torque on the nut attached to the handlebar clamp stud underneath the top triple clamp.

Tightening this nut down hard will transmit much more vibration into the bars.

The best solution I found was to loosen the nut down to the cotter pin (that's what the hole in the stud if for if your bike is pin-less).

Stradling the bike push the bars forward and backward. There should be very obvious PLAY in the system.

Then tighten the nut (use of nylok or self locking nuts is important here) to the point that this play in the bars just disappears...add about 1/2 turn more and leave the nut there.

Barkbusters:

Everytime I put the barkbuster/lever protectors back onto the bars the Vibration increased dramatically.

Combinations:

I played with different combinations of
(a) Barkbusters using both Cycra and Acerbis models
(b) DRZ400 bar end weights (generally free at most Suzuki shops if you know the guys....found in a oil stained box next to the recycling bin)
(c) Ricor Vibranators (vibration reducing harmonic system)

After trying all the above combination/permutations of the above, I found that my bike was smoothest with:

DRZ400 bar end weights and NO barkbuster/lever protection and NO Vibranators.....just the weights. In fact I'm putting the standard Suzuki handguards (plastic only mounts to the lever pivots) from my SR43 back on this bike and will try to find a pair of Suzuki SR41/42 handgurads in the future.

Of course, your experience may vary depending bar type used and your tolerance (or lack thereof) to vibration. I'm not saying that this makes the Big feel like a Goldwing but it lets me ride the bike without my hands going numb.

Hopefully this will help

the_sad_punk · 03-20-2013, 02:01 PM

....so no joy with vibranators then? Worked wonders with my dakar high bars.

Ladder106 · 03-20-2013, 05:50 PM

The vibranators worked best at low revs like 2500 - 3500 but not 4-5 thousand where I spend most of my road time.

They helped when I had the SR41 engine in the bike but I'm better with the DRZ400 weights with the SR43 engine.

The SR41 engine will be taken down and rebuilt soon so I should be back to normal (at least what I consider normal) fairly soon.

But for now, this is what I found. Experimentation does provide benefits as there are many variables involved. My solution is likely not for everyone but if you don't like the way your bike feels, play with some things. Make one change at a time and eventually you'll find a solution.

03-19-2013, 01:44 AM	#14195
aapo aapo Joined: Aug 2008 Location: Finland Oddometer: 123	HI, Has anyone put wide band lambda to exhaust system in DR big? Any good locations or component suggestions. I'll just try to get rid of speculations with lean / rich issues. (when i will get the engine back together) -aapo __________________ -aapo DR 750S 1989 http://picasaweb.google.com/aapo.saari

03-19-2013, 03:57 AM	#14197
ausibatla Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Mar 2009 Location: Waroona, West. Australia Oddometer: 415	DR800 for sale If anybody is interested in my '91 DR800 then let me know by private message or email. I can send photo's or post them. Or you can check out the bike on Photobucket. http://s571.photobucket.com/user/aus...80788297214483 The bike has only done 8748kms since new. I have registration papers to prove it. I have also found out that it is the only registered DR800 in Western Australia. I want $6000 for it so if you're in Perth or W.A. and you want to check it out let me know. Cheers. __________________ Youth's a mask but it don't last Live it long and live it fast DR 800 DR750 ausibatla screwed with this post 03-19-2013 at 04:23 AM

03-20-2013, 04:38 AM	#14202
robmoto Beastly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2009 Location: Bathurst Australia Oddometer: 3,244	__________________ I ride alone and not a KTM in sight .

03-20-2013, 10:28 AM	#14203
Ladder106 It's a short cut, really Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Davis, CA Oddometer: 4,258	Vibration Control I've been working trying to get the vibration on my SR41 (with the SR43 engine) under control for the past few weeks. I've finally got the jetting mostly sorted and the bike runs well in all gears. I changed the final drive to a 15/49 since the SR43 engine has a higher primary drive ratio this give the same gearing as the SR41 with 15/47....or very close to it. This has made the bike much easier to ride and made the ratios much more useful. Anyway.....Vibration. I'm using Renthal Carmichael High bend 7/8 in bars on my bike. The main factor I found in smoothing out the handlebar vibration on the SR41/42 is the state of torque on the nut attached to the handlebar clamp stud underneath the top triple clamp. Tightening this nut down hard will transmit much more vibration into the bars. The best solution I found was to loosen the nut down to the cotter pin (that's what the hole in the stud if for if your bike is pin-less). Stradling the bike push the bars forward and backward. There should be very obvious PLAY in the system. Then tighten the nut (use of nylok or self locking nuts is important here) to the point that this play in the bars just disappears...add about 1/2 turn more and leave the nut there. Barkbusters: Everytime I put the barkbuster/lever protectors back onto the bars the Vibration increased dramatically. Combinations: I played with different combinations of (a) Barkbusters using both Cycra and Acerbis models (b) DRZ400 bar end weights (generally free at most Suzuki shops if you know the guys....found in a oil stained box next to the recycling bin) (c) Ricor Vibranators (vibration reducing harmonic system) After trying all the above combination/permutations of the above, I found that my bike was smoothest with: DRZ400 bar end weights and NO barkbuster/lever protection and NO Vibranators.....just the weights. In fact I'm putting the standard Suzuki handguards (plastic only mounts to the lever pivots) from my SR43 back on this bike and will try to find a pair of Suzuki SR41/42 handgurads in the future. Of course, your experience may vary depending bar type used and your tolerance (or lack thereof) to vibration. I'm not saying that this makes the Big feel like a Goldwing but it lets me ride the bike without my hands going numb. Hopefully this will help

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03-13-2013, 10:20 PM	#14191
Ladder106 It's a short cut, really Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Davis, CA Oddometer: 4,258	I'd open that garage door a bit more, mate

03-15-2013, 02:21 PM	#14193
MrPopples Adventurer Joined: Jul 2012 Oddometer: 24	Hey guys :) still havn't found a good deal for a used fork to put on the DR Big ... but I think I have something for the rear shock :) I found a Buell XB12 Ulysse shock, brand as new, for 50 bucks ... only problem, the Uly shock is 390mm long and the DR Big is 410mm long. I'm wondering if that is a "big" problem, since the shock might be more progressive and might even make the DR keep the same balance ... as my shock is 80 000 kms old and never had any refurbishing. it seems rather hard to find a used shock that is 410mm long?

03-20-2013, 02:46 AM	#14201
shanekfalcon Gnarly Adventurer Joined: May 2010 Oddometer: 115	Hi everyone, Its been months since I last posted as I've been away on a few trips and so on. Anyhow I thought that I would let you all know how the DR800 is going. After a stay at Rob's place, the mechanicals are working very well; Rob did a great job fixing things due to age and also problems created by my own ignorance. I did have a small electrical problem develop but by following Rob's advice, I took the rhs tank off and found the short. Its now working well. Went on a 250 km round trip up the highway and to a local biker cafe, The Bellbird Cafe in Kenilworth and the bike ran extremely well. Still some fine tuning to go such as some grip puppies to increase the diameter of the grips, perhaps some aftermarket levers; that sort of thing. I've lent the car to a friend for a month or so and will use this bike for a daily rider for two weeks and then swap with the V-Star for two weeks etc. Bottom line though, the 800 is great to ride and working well.

03-20-2013, 02:01 PM	#14204
the_sad_punk Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2010 Location: Eire Oddometer: 348	....so no joy with vibranators then? Worked wonders with my dakar high bars.

03-20-2013, 05:50 PM	#14205
Ladder106 It's a short cut, really Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Davis, CA Oddometer: 4,258	The vibranators worked best at low revs like 2500 - 3500 but not 4-5 thousand where I spend most of my road time. They helped when I had the SR41 engine in the bike but I'm better with the DRZ400 weights with the SR43 engine. The SR41 engine will be taken down and rebuilt soon so I should be back to normal (at least what I consider normal) fairly soon. But for now, this is what I found. Experimentation does provide benefits as there are many variables involved. My solution is likely not for everyone but if you don't like the way your bike feels, play with some things. Make one change at a time and eventually you'll find a solution.