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Old 03-23-2013, 06:18 AM   #14221
the_sad_punk
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Eire
Oddometer: 348
Rob, likewise mate, how are ye keeping? All well here if a little busier than normal
Bike is still on the bench so as to speak.
Im saving up all the pennies to bascially have the whole thing rebuilt, well apart from the head. Its an expensive route to take but that way il know its sorted once and for all bar basic servicing.
If you hear of anone selling new oem bearings, chains, tensioners, guides, springs at a good price let me know.
Also any upgrades that are wise to do shout! I have that first oversize piston and barrel (without cutouts but i read that ok to use?) and ive read about the later cct and a hessler spring being a good idea.
Lastly the i think i remember Dave saying to use a later balance chain guide too...?

Spen, the creation is looking well mate, you gona sell the pther one or start a collection like Bob?

Ps Mait that piston looks great!
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:41 AM   #14222
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mait View Post
I asked them to supply conventional rings.
That's probably a good thing.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:01 AM   #14223
Ladder106
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I obviously did not read the instructions well enough.

Good thing I've not started building anything yet.

Never even heard of gapless rings before. Why are they good....or not?
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:14 AM   #14224
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Never even heard of gapless rings before. Why are they good....or not?
In Total Seal's case, the rings are two piece designs where the second ring overlaps the gap of the first. I would never want to use a gapless 2nd ring (that is one that goes into the 2nd ring groove of the piston) because the top ring needs to be pushed against its bottom ring land in order to seal, and relies on a pressure differential between the area above and below the ring to do so. I'm skeptical of a two piece design in general, because as far as I can tell, there is nothing to prevent the gasses from getting between them (meaning the top portion won't do much to help facilitate sealing). In the end, if set up properly, the ring gap on standard top rings is close to nothing during operation (that is when hot) anyhow.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:22 AM   #14225
Ladder106
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I obviously did not read the instructions well enough.

Good thing I've not started building anything yet.

Never even heard of gapless rings before. Why are they good....or not?


Taking a closer look at this, Mait, it would appear that the rings are , indeed, conventional.

The top ring is the "torsional" type and installs with the inner bevel UP.

The second ring is the "napier" type and installs with the "notch" DOWN.

Does that sound correct? I'm sure I'd have discovered it eventually but it's nice to have it straight in my head now.
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:29 AM   #14226
mait
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Absolutely correct!
Top ring installs inner bevel up.
Second ring installs notch down (to scrape oil from cylinder wall when moving down).
Oil ring spring (the wave shaped piece) installs with ends facing down.

Don't forget to set the 1st and 2nd compression ring end gaps! Or ask your shop to it for you.

Gapless rings... they might work but I didn't feel like experimenting this time.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
I obviously did not read the instructions well enough.

Good thing I've not started building anything yet.

Never even heard of gapless rings before. Why are they good....or not?


Taking a closer look at this, Mait, it would appear that the rings are , indeed, conventional.

The top ring is the "torsional" type and installs with the inner bevel UP.

The second ring is the "napier" type and installs with the "notch" DOWN.

Does that sound correct? I'm sure I'd have discovered it eventually but it's nice to have it straight in my head now.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:09 AM   #14227
spen
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Does any one know if it is possible to get a link pipe made to fit the GSXR can onto the DR ,Anybody on here make them ??? Also if anyone has a spare can for sale PM me . thanks
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:49 AM   #14228
Ladder106
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Most good auto muffler shops will build one.

But, they mostly use benders that reduce the inside diameter of the pipe during the bending process. This is likely OK on cars but not so nice on motorcycles.

If you look through exhaust tubing web sites you can find mandrel bent tubing in many different configurations. 2 90 deg bends should give you all the angles that you need.

Then just cut the bends at the angles you require to connect the pipes.

FWIW, I started with a link pipe from a GPR silencer. This pipe was OK but was difficult for me to adapt to the Spark Arrestor that I require in the USA for off-road riding. The link pipe provided was very very close and I only had to modify the silencer end to get it to mate to the Suzuki can. Dunno if the GPR link pipes can be had seperately.

The OD of the Suzuki head pipe is about 43 mm while the pipe exiting the square flange on the GSXR is 58 mm so some reduction has to be engineered in along the way. If you can find a pipe with the 1000 link pipe attached, this will help you start the fabrication process. The link pipe will have the square flange and pipe alreay attached and the gasket between the silencer (yes, there IS a muffler gasket) and the link pipe present. Then you can just cut the link pipe at whatever point you went to continue your build

Be sure you get the "(x)40f0(x)" (stamped in the aluminium outer shell) pipe from the 2000-01 GSXR 1000. The 35F0 silencer from the 750/600 is also the same outside size but has just slightly smaller internal pipe size. It isn't Titanium but the weight difference it slight. This one may be more redily available.

The use of these pipes for DR650s is likely not quite so popular in your part of the world so it's usually quite probable to find one at a breakers.

If you haven't seen this site yet: https://docs.google.com/presentation...nt#slide=id.i0

Take a look since it has good information. The link pipes for the DR650 are close but the end nearer the engine has a large "UP" angle that is not used on the DR750. It may be a starting point but would be a shame to spend all that money and then cut the pipe up.

Oddly enough, this silencer has no detectable (to my butt dyno without any gas analysis) effect on the bikes standard jetting so there's not much mucking about there.

Ladder106 screwed with this post 03-25-2013 at 08:55 AM
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:53 AM   #14229
spen
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If i can make something up rough i can get it made in Stainless. I had a look at that site using the GSXR can on the 650 looks good ,
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Old 03-27-2013, 10:33 AM   #14230
jurvooss
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de-comp lever 1990 dr800

how does the de-comp lever works on my 1990 dr800, currently my engine is on the bench and if i pull the lever mounted on the head it stays in that position. is that good? or does it has to go back on its own..!?

i never had it started before, so idk how it works while running.

thanks,
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:04 AM   #14231
mait
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Yes it should stay in that position. It will go back when the camshaft turns.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:29 AM   #14232
jurvooss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mait View Post
Yes it should stay in that position. It will go back when the camshaft turns.
thanks mait, another step further!
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:45 AM   #14233
jurvooss
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Question grounding...

i have powdercoated my frame and all the little attached plates but do i have take the paint away where i place my coils so it grounds?
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:52 PM   #14234
Bob Herr
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42 tooth rear sprocket installed

Finally got around to putting the 42 tooth rear sprocket on my 88 DR750. Also replaced the worn out rear knobby with a Kenda 761 dual sport tire. Took my first ride with it today and I like the result. I ride all paved roads and usually have a 60-90 minute ride on interstate to get to any thing curvy. Motor now turns 3600 RPM at 100K/hr and the bike is really smooth. Motor turns 4250 RPM at 120K/hr with just a slight buzz in the pegs and bars. The torque of that 750 is really something!!! The bike takes off easily from a stop with out having to slip the clutch much and there is no engine bog. Haven't tried to pull a steep hill yet but there is no need to shift down on gentler hills. Just a little throttle roll to maintain speed. Motor just seems to be loafing along. I have had a KLR650 and a F650GS single and they seem to really be pulling hard at 70MPH. I am thinking this is going to be a really smooth bike when I get rid of the front knobby and maybe add a set of bar weights.

I had comments from some of your fellows when I inquired about this last year so I thought I would just report back the result. - Bob
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:03 PM   #14235
robmoto
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It should ground through the thread on the bolt that holds it in place on the bracket, but these brackets may need grounding where they touch the frame on both sides of the frame .
Use locktite when replacing or you will be sorry .
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