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Old 06-04-2013, 03:50 AM   #14611
robmoto
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Wundis , has the camshaft been removed or replaced from last year when the bike was running properly or have you removed the cam sprocket and put it back on since last year / we need to know.
I did mention this before and want you to double check please not just say yes its allright check it first, are you 100 percent sure you have the fuel inlet pipe going to the LOWER plastic T piece between the bowls and not the top breather one, they look Identical.
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:09 AM   #14612
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Hey Spen your doing a nice job with your bike , looking really good , If you want a tail light the same as the Dakar bike piss that black plastic off and fit a CT 110 postie bike tail light , original Honda about 100 bucks screws and main base and red lence are all separate part No.
I did spot the same tail light on Ebay for half the price and it was LED I think it was Engand too.sorry about the straps hanging .
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:20 AM   #14613
bluesman
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Wundis, according to manual you first align then release tensioner. When doing so you expected to take into account chain slack and pre-adjust camshaft accordingly. Marks will never line up ideally after all released.
As for Wunderosa kit - do not buy it. Buy original mikuni repair kits, available on eBay and online. Wunderosa kits known to have rather bad (for bike) membrane that breaks.
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:27 AM   #14614
wundis
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Location: Vilnius, Lithuania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spen View Post
If the crank is lined up on the mark and the cam shaft is alined ( with the lobs up on TDC )then put the chain on ,then adjust the tensioner , the cam shaft will move as the chain is pulled down as the tension increases if the cam chain is very slack before you adjust the tensioner then it must be replaced .If the timing is out you would bend valves and damage the piston,turn it over using a socket and rachet (anticlockwise i think )
OK spen, noted, will re-check and align the camshaft this way. As the term "slack" is somewhat relative, i'm going to refer to the manual regarding the camchain length - it is 1 mm to limit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoto View Post
Wundis , has the camshaft been removed or replaced from last year when the bike was running properly or have you removed the cam sprocket and put it back on since last year / we need to know.
I did mention this before and want you to double check please not just say yes its allright check it first, are you 100 percent sure you have the fuel inlet pipe going to the LOWER plastic T piece between the bowls and not the top breather one, they look Identical.
Thanks rob,

Here is what i've done through the winter:
New camshaft
New rockers
New valve seals
New balancer chain
New piston rings
Some bearings, bits and bobs, seals there n there, base and top gaskets
Carb float valves
K&N air filter upgrade
Exhaust sorted out

And yes, the fuel is going where it is supposed to go, I am 100% sure of this. I know what it looks like, and my air vent hose is sitting next to the airbox by the inlet.

Back in 2010 zappa wrote this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by zappa71 View Post
If the mark on the fly wheel is in line with the point on the engine cover and the cam chain tension-er is pushing against the cam chain [ or use your finger when its not set yet] and the lines on the camshaft are in line with the cilinder head it's set correct [ the lines on the cam shaft could be a bid tilted to the front of the engine when the cam chain is a bit worn ]
So the lines should be tilted to the front of the engine when the cam chain is a bit worn. From the pic it is visible that mine is tilted to the back of the engine.
It must be related to setting the camshaft incorrectly (my dumb ass may have done it with the tensioner on, or I must have been lining it up with the tensioner on).
I'm not going to be too enthusiastic about it right now, evening will show.

I will keep you guys posted.
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:31 AM   #14615
wundis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman View Post
Wundis, according to manual you first align then release tensioner. When doing so you expected to take into account chain slack and pre-adjust camshaft accordingly. Marks will never line up ideally after all released.
As for Wunderosa kit - do not buy it. Buy original mikuni repair kits, available on eBay and online. Wunderosa kits known to have rather bad (for bike) membrane that breaks.
Ok bluesman, thanks. Noted.

As for the wunderosa kit... it's a snowmobile kit :) but hey, it's allready in - if it breaks it breaks. The membrane that was inside was a DIY construction, most likely made from a used condom and tears. There was a lot of stuff inside that was not suppposed to be in there...
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:37 AM   #14616
robmoto
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Mait, terrific your doing a fantastic job, as you know I love air box mods .
You may have now lost to much vacume for the CV carbs to function properly , looking at the foam on the filter it is similar to mine too open and won,t fitler good enough in dusty conditions allthough every pic I think you have posted its all ways been a swamp you ride in over there
I run another foam sock filter over the top on my set up that is similar to yours but with pumpers .
On the same bike I did have the CV carbs earlier and similar box that you just made but ran a smaller same DIA filer, but shorter to give the carbs some vacume the foam itself was 100mm long 115 DIA.
You could wrap some cloth or tape around the filter to reduce the air flow to see if this is an improvement before playing with the main jets.
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:52 AM   #14617
shanekfalcon
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My DIY extended hand guards. Protection for wind, rain, rocks, roost and wrecks. When coming home from the farm a week ago in 10 degree ( celsius ) I felt an ill wind across my hands. The Barkbuster VIP handguards are great but a bit more protection from the wind and rain would be nice. Barkbuster do sell an extended size handguard called "Storm", but being an el cheapo, I looked through the spares box and found my old stock Suzuki guards. I also believe that it is more socially responsible to re-use where possible; everything should have at least two lives. The Suzuki handguards were already damaged with deep scratches through them; they offer protection from wind and rain only and no protection from rocks, trees or falls. Inspired by a famous RTW traveller, Greg Frazier, who has done a similiar thing on a KLR 650, added them to the VIP handguard and the combination should provide the best of both worlds. The Suzuki guards required a lot of sanding to remove some of the scratches and I cut off the original mounting points with a rotary tool. The black paint was applied to the parts individually first and then another two coats after assembly.








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Old 06-04-2013, 04:53 AM   #14618
robmoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wundis View Post
OK spen, noted, will re-check and align the camshaft this way. As the term "slack" is somewhat relative, i'm going to refer to the manual regarding the camchain length - it is 1 mm to limit.


Thanks rob,

Here is what i've done through the winter:
New camshaft
New rockers
New valve seals
New balancer chain
New piston rings
Some bearings, bits and bobs, seals there n there, base and top gaskets
Carb float valves
K&N air filter upgrade
Exhaust sorted out

And yes, the fuel is going where it is supposed to go, I am 100% sure of this. I know what it looks like, and my air vent hose is sitting next to the airbox by the inlet.

Back in 2010 zappa wrote this:


So the lines should be tilted to the front of the engine when the cam chain is a bit worn. From the pic it is visible that mine is tilted to the back of the engine.
It must be related to setting the camshaft incorrectly (my dumb ass may have done it with the tensioner on, or I must have been lining it up with the tensioner on).
I'm not going to be too enthusiastic about it right now, evening will show.

I will keep you guys posted.
Wundis , thankyou for your answer ok that eliminates 1 thing .
Now I want you to do this for me please align up the mark on the side case and the rotor again as before, with the little cam cog pin showing on the top half above the barrel or cylinder .
If you have done this and it is the same as the before last pic .
Now turn the motor one full revolution 360 degrease and if it isn,t where it was before now retime the cam.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:10 AM   #14619
shanekfalcon
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My brake lever extension, hope you guys like it.

Spare bracket from a network switch mount and 6 mm bolts. Works nice but needs better paint as I used cheap chassis paint. I've since stripped back the footpeg hanger, removed the upside "U" guard" and painted it ( and rear rack ) in epoxy enamel. I'll paint the brake lever with epoxy enamel in the next month or so






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Old 06-04-2013, 05:27 AM   #14620
wundis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoto View Post
Wundis , thankyou for your answer ok that eliminates 1 thing .
Now I want you to do this for me please align up the mark on the side case and the rotor again as before, with the little cam cog pin showing on the top half above the barrel or cylinder .
If you have done this and it is the same as the before last pic .
Now turn the motor one full revolution 360 degrease and if it isn,t where it was before now retime the cam.


So just to be sure, you want me to put it on the "real" TDC (of the compression stroke), and rotate the rotor 1 turn (anti clockwise), and after the turn check if the cam sprocket has rotated differently? Did I understand you correctly? Why should it change? I must be not catching something
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:49 AM   #14621
mait
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Thanks Rob for the advice! I suspect that there is not enough vacuum for the CVs, too. I'll give it a try with tape.
My riding conditions vary from wet swamps to dry very dusty tracks and unpaved roads. I hope the filter will do its job. It is UNI 2-stage filter - there is a fine core filter foam inside. And I 've already ordered filterskins to put on top of the filter to improve filtering.

I will play with carbs and filter and let you all know about the results.
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:02 AM   #14622
robmoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mait View Post
Thanks Rob for the advice! I suspect that there is not enough vacuum for the CVs, too. I'll give it a try with tape.
My riding conditions vary from wet swamps to dry very dusty tracks and unpaved roads. I hope the filter will do its job. It is UNI 2-stage filter - there is a fine core filter foam inside. And I 've already ordered filterskins to put on top of the filter to improve filtering.

I will play with carbs and filter and let you all know about the results.
I forgot to mention too getting rid of all that wirering , now theres some thing I can do to the yellow bike .
A 2 stage filter now that's great , can you tell me the inlet size where its fits over the ally manifold , If its 90mm a link would good and I will get one .
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:24 AM   #14623
robmoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wundis View Post


So just to be sure, you want me to put it on the "real" TDC (of the compression stroke), and rotate the rotor 1 turn (anti clockwise), and after the turn check if the cam sprocket has rotated differently? Did I understand you correctly? Why should it change? I must be not catching something
Well it might change, it might not, then turn 360 again and I think the tapperts should both have clearance and the cam follower part of the tappets should be at the lowest part of the cam then you know the cam timing is right.
Thus this eliminates if the cam timing is wrong double checking , process of illumination once again.
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:24 AM   #14624
mait
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Rob, the filter is UNI part number UP6400ST. I bought it from ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Uni-Filter-D...f9ae0c&vxp=mtr

It looks somewhat different than on the picture. The bottom is rubber not foam.
I bought 100 x 1.5mm ally tube for the manifold and bent it to elliptical shape on one end. The original rubber manifold that is between carbs and airbox fits very tight over the 100mm tube. Air filter intake hole is 4inch diameter so it fits a bit looser over the tube but it can be clamped airtight.

Mr Hessler sells similar airfilter but I don't know the specs. It is not listed seprately in his shop, you have to ask him if you want one.






Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoto View Post
I forgot to mention too getting rid of all that wirering , now theres some thing I can do to the yellow bike .
A 2 stage filter now that's great , can you tell me the inlet size where its fits over the ally manifold , If its 90mm a link would good and I will get one .
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:35 AM   #14625
wundis
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Location: Vilnius, Lithuania
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Guys, no matter how much I like maits (or Stefans) work, can you explain to me what's wrong with using a k&n airfilter instead of DIY stuff? Still not enough air?
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