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Old 09-13-2010, 05:32 PM   #16
gizmo309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638
There is a variation on the "K-Mod". While the original says to remove three of the six weighted rollers (three are one weight, the other three are heavier/lighter), the variation says to replace those three weighted rollers with weighted rollers of equal weight. That is, instead of ending up with three weighted rollers in the variator, you end up with 6 weighted rollers (all of equal weight). That might be the way the Big Ruckus is set up (not sure tho).
I've heard of this somewhere too. Is the K-mod the removal of the three heavy rollers? I will do some research on this and maybe attempt it over winter. I took the scoot out today for a little ride and it felt nearly as smooth as the Piaggio. Maybe it's breaking in a bit. It only has about 2500 miles. I do think the weak link is the transmission on this scoot. Not that there is anything "wrong" with it, just that it can be better.

Bob
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lammy1000
Unfortuneately, the K mod really must be done. I did not make any special tool,,,I used an electric impact gun, being carefull to not overtighten the variator nut. The horribly formatted yahoo Reflex site has a files section to the left with great instructions. I will lend whatever advice you need also.
Can you describe the difference of pre K-mod to post k-mod? From what Bruce (the guy that thought this up) says , the scooter will be exactly the same from 50mph on up. The performance change takes place from 0-50 mph. Does this make the scoot accelerate smoother? Quicker? I'd love to hear a comparison. My Piaggio feels "electric smooth" by comparison. Not that the Reflex is rough, it just doesn't feel as refined.

Thanks- Bob
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:46 AM   #18
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Go to the Yahoo site, the "files" section has extensive test comparisons. Basically show good improvement with the k-mod in the midrange and a tiny degradation of high end. Seat of the pants is that there is good improvement and worth doing.

Again, the formatting of the yahoo site is an embarrassment...they should simply go to a typical format, such as this forum.

Bruce Koehler (mr Reflex and seemingly in the know about all Reflex topics) says to not use all 6 ramps in the variator as the ramp angle of the 3 that are left vacant in the k-mod will degrade performance regardless of the weight of the rollers.
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:19 AM   #19
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If you're not a member of that Yahoo Group I don't think you'll be able to see or access the Files section (that contains the K-Mod document).

gizmo: I'm sorry, I don't recall if the three weighted rollers are the heavy ones or the light ones. To be honest, it may not even say which are which in the document. The difference is that the acceleration is smother between 10-30 mph. With all the rollers in the variator, there's a "flat spot" in that speed range. It's noticeable enough to be able to feel the difference (at least I could) after the mod. But, yes, over 50 mph, there's no change.
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Old 09-17-2010, 02:47 AM   #20
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The 3 black rollers are removed, while the beige are left in their original ramps - ramps are marked for color...black or beige. So, remove the black ones and feel better acceleration.
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Old 09-18-2010, 02:23 AM   #21
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You found the Reflex too loud after the K-Mod??? Man, you must have very sensitive ears.
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Old 09-18-2010, 03:02 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiritus
I've owned both Helix and Reflex. One of the things I loved about both is the smooth, quiet engines. Once I did the KMod, the Reflex rev-ed much higher and was louder than before. IMO, the quicker acceleration didn't justify the louder engine noise. *YMMV*

BTW - the KMod is very easy to do and un-do so, you can try it and see if the bike's better for you with the KMod or without.

As to the OP question - I found the Helix riding position was more "relaxing" for me and the Reflex more "sporting" and I guess ended up riding more along those styles with each of them.

IMO the Honda 250s are the best bargains out there and the most fun per $.
Your inflection lead one to believe that "louder than before" and "didn't justify the louder engibe noise" means your ears are very sensitive, perhaps as sensitive as the persona? Wish my ears were that delicate.
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:14 AM   #23
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I noticed no difference in exhaust note after the K-Mod. It's still very quiet and I'd have no trouble with the neighbors if I fired it up @ 2AM.
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:52 PM   #24
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does the reflex have rear disk brakes??
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Old 09-20-2010, 01:03 PM   #25
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rear disc brakes is a yes. The left brake handle activates the rear brake pistons and 1 of 3 front brake pistons...linked
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Old 09-20-2010, 01:35 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lammy1000
rear disc brakes is a yes. The left brake handle activates the rear brake pistons and 1 of 3 front brake pistons...linked
IMHO, the brakes on the Reflex are on par with any big bike.
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Old 09-21-2010, 12:41 PM   #27
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The brakes on the Reflex are good, without the extreme braking power of modern sport bikes which fits this type of machine perfectly. My helix (sold to a friend) had wooden feeling brakes until I cleaned around the front brake pistons, lubed the pivot on the handlebar (made an incredible difference! I think I was the first to have lubed them in 14 years/20000 miles) and bleed the brakes.
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:49 AM   #28
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The location of the rear caliper, on the Reflex, makes it susceptible to road grime. This causes the "whisk-whisk-whisk" sound while riding. If you clean everything and use some silicone to help the seals, the condition that causes the "whisk" sound will be resolved.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:03 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638
and use some silicone to help the seals
Could you elaborate on that a bit? Thanks.
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:53 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rottweiler
Could you elaborate on that a bit? Thanks.
I KNEW this was coming........

OK, I have the Honda Shop Manual for the Reflex. I'm on page 16-30 (Chapter 16, page 30). The caliper pin bolt threads thru the caliper while it holds the indicator plate. The un-threaded portion of the pin bolt protrudes into a well in the caliper bracket. The well in the bracket will fill with road grime because the pin boot (between the caliper and the caliper bracket) doesn't seal well. I used silicone to help the pin boot seal better. With grime in the caliper bracket well, the caliper isn't free to 'float' within the bracket due to drag on the pin bolt. Cleaning that bolt and the well resolves the "whisk-whisk" issue. If you can keep the well clean (by helping the boot to seal better), the "whisk" sound shouldn't return.

To be honest, I always thought the "whisk" sound came from the front rotor/caliper. However, I did a complete job with a system bleed. So, I cannot pinpoint exactly what might have resolved the issue. But, the grime I found in that well makes the most logical sense.
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