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Old 07-27-2008, 04:17 AM   #16
9Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noblehops
Forging ahead I wiggled an Xacto blade in there and gently freed the battery. But how to reinstall? I attempted to put a teeny dot of solder on the two contacts that sandwich the battery, but it would not stick to the battery, nor could I get it hot enough to stay molten and get the battery on it.
Look at post 10. The OP said "scratch" the battery. I bet he is saying rough it up so you can get the solder to adhere.

A little dot of an electronic safe flux would help as well.

Dave
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Old 07-27-2008, 07:51 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave-950
Look at post 10. The OP said "scratch" the battery. I bet he is saying rough it up so you can get the solder to adhere.

A little dot of an electronic safe flux would help as well.

Dave
Yeah, I tried that, it still wouldn't stick and another problem is soldering the underside. You can heat up the solder till molten, remove the iron and attempt to place the battery on it, but the battery is so cold it sets up the solder instantly before it can adhere. Solder isn't going to be the answer, at least not for me.

The Google coughed up this with a little coaxing:

http://www.wireglue.us/

In addition, I found some recipies for homemade conductive glue using contact cement and graphite, but seeing as I have neither laying around, I ordered the wire glue, and fresh unmolested batteries.

I will photograph and document what happens next when I get it, but for the moment, I wouldn't advise folks blazing ahead with this project without a plan in place for how to reinstall this thing.

Nils
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Old 07-27-2008, 04:30 PM   #18
Frank Warner
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You should be able to order the batteries with the weilded on tags .. than just solder the battery tags to the tags on the board... (not as cheap as teh plain jane battery .. and not avalible in teh drug store).
Conductive glue should ba avalible at radio shack, farnell, and other electronics suppliers .. it will not be cheap ..
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:04 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noblehops
Yeah, I tried that, it still wouldn't stick and another problem is soldering the underside. You can heat up the solder till molten, remove the iron and attempt to place the battery on it, but the battery is so cold it sets up the solder instantly before it can adhere. Solder isn't going to be the answer, at least not for me.

The Google coughed up this with a little coaxing:

http://www.wireglue.us/

In addition, I found some recipies for homemade conductive glue using contact cement and graphite, but seeing as I have neither laying around, I ordered the wire glue, and fresh unmolested batteries.

I will photograph and document what happens next when I get it, but for the moment, I wouldn't advise folks blazing ahead with this project without a plan in place for how to reinstall this thing.

Nils
You are right this problem might happen, my only advice to this (don't laugh ) is to try several brands of batteries with the same characteristics.

some of them are real pain in the ass when it comes to solder (try Sanyo batteries)
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Old 08-09-2008, 11:59 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsizmo
You are right this problem might happen, my only advice to this (don't laugh ) is to try several brands of batteries with the same characteristics.

some of them are real pain in the ass when it comes to solder (try Sanyo batteries)
OK, it's done, and the glue worked perfectly. Success!

Here's a commented gallery on Smugmug detailing how I did it.

http://noblehops.smugmug.com/gallery...E9aP#348168332

Edit: The Wire Glue folks do not sell direct. After one aborted attempt to purchase from a mom and pop, I got it from Edmunds Scientific: http://scientificsonline.com/product...cd2=1218308292

They shipped it the next day for a pretty reasonable cost.
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Old 11-09-2008, 12:17 PM   #21
ObiWanJak
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I'm going to revive an older thread here. I tried to order the battery as suggested here, but I never was able to get it to take a charge. I suspect that due to the manufacturer discontinuing them, they may be reaching the end of their shelf life. I did find a Sanyo 3.0V rechargeable w/ similar specs (3.5 mah instead of 3.0, but same voltage) from Digi-key. This battery also already has tabs, so you can use straight solder and not worry about the wire glue. Just remember to select UPS ground as it's a lithium battery. I bent the tabs slightly on the one I received, soldered it on with no problems in less than 10 minutes w/ the above directions - works 4.0.

Loren

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/163...ml621-tz1.html
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Old 11-11-2008, 04:27 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ObiWanJak
I'm going to revive an older thread here. I tried to order the battery as suggested here, but I never was able to get it to take a charge.
Loren,

Please forgive my ignorance in the ways of batteries but is the "charge" you refer to provided by the GPS receiver once the battery is mounted inside or did you charge the battery by some external means before you installed it? I have an older 276c requiring a battery change and I'm not all that savvy with electronic repair.

Regards,

Steve
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:25 AM   #23
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When I received the battery, it had no voltage across the terminals - but the 276 will charge it when it's plugged in - the backup battery and main battery are charged at the same time (about 3.6V across the backup battery terminals when plugged in). Even after extended charge time in the GPS, the backup battery never put out any voltage. Hope that was clear. In short, I used the GPS to try to charge the backup battery, not an external charger.

Loren
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:39 AM   #24
Twistn'roads
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OK, got it. Thanks Loren!

Now to figure out how to change the battery in my iPod....

~TR~
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Old 03-09-2009, 07:19 AM   #25
Ooobah-Moto
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...I just ordered the battery from DigiKey.


Thanks Loren
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:30 PM   #26
Countdown
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Tsizmo,

I would make a stand alone post

Titled "Slow Satilite Acquisition may be dead battery" and then explain sending to Garmin vs replacing battery.
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Old 03-14-2009, 12:09 PM   #27
mudbreeder
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varta mc621 replacement

varta mc621 = 3V / 3mAH size: 6.8mm / 2.15mm
sanyo ml621 = 3V / 5.5mAH size: 6.8mm / 2.1mm
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Old 03-16-2009, 12:41 PM   #28
tsizmo OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Countdown
Tsizmo,

I would make a stand alone post

Titled "Slow Satilite Acquisition may be dead battery" and then explain sending to Garmin vs replacing battery.
Go ahead man, that sould be helpfull
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Old 04-06-2009, 06:19 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ObiWanJak
Thanks for that.

Just ordered one. Total cost - about $4.25
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:45 PM   #30
GSWayne
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I just replaced mine. It seems a little trickier than the set of photos indicate. I found it very difficult to separate the case after it had been stuck together for almost 5 years. He does not seem to show the flex circuit connector that mates to the white connector that is shown best in the 4th picture toward the right of the circuit board. I had to slide open the "keeper" portion of the connector to get the flex circuit that comes from the external power connector to mate back into the connector, then slide the keeper piece back in. There is also another connector on the backside that gets mated as you reinstall the circuit card. The last trick is to solder the two battery contacts without the iron or solder bridging the gap and shorting out the battery. (For sharp eyed whippersnappers that are used to surface mount soldering and have a small enough iron, I am sure it is a piece of cake).

Anyway, I hope this fixes the problem I had, which was for the GPS to forget what day or time it was.

My old battery showed only 0.7 V, the new one 2.68 V (before installation).
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