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Old 09-30-2008, 08:26 PM   #46
datchew OP
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Ok. Update. After consulting Oak, Frank Warner, Anton, and Rick from Motorrad Elektric, I realize what I already knew... electricity just ain't my bag baby.


However, I did learn that with dwell and points and ohms and condensors and such, the proper setup for points is however you want to accomplish it as long as you use the following:

1 - 79-80 points style bean can
2 - 3 ohm coil. It'll run on a normal .685 ohm (like the harley coil, the bosch OEM coil, etc) really well but it will shorten the life of your points. You can also use quantity = 2 of the 1.5 ohm coils wired in series but you'd have to rig up a special mount for a post-1981 airhead.

3 - The line from the condensor just needs to be tied into your power side of the coil (green-blue wire to coil on 89 GS)

4 - Disconnect the amplifier both inside the front cover and in the wiring harness where it splits to go to the coil. You can leave it in there if you don't want to cut any wires.





So, I know now that going to points solved my problem. I still don't know if it was the amplifier or the hall sensor. But once I get both new hall sensors installed, I'll switch back to stock system and see what happens.

But I plan to stick it points at this time. In 10 years, will hall sensors still be available? I can hoard a coffee can full of type2 VW points and condensors for peanuts and they'll last me the rest of my natural life. The luddite blood has prevailed. Screw electronic ignition.


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Old 10-01-2008, 11:57 AM   #47
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A little birdy told me that they are working on a solid state replacement for the bean can and it should be available in the new year


BTW Rick at Mottorand electric still does the bean can rebuilds
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:03 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxermoose
A little birdy told me that they are working on a solid state replacement for the bean can and it should be available in the new year..
I never understood why they stuck with a mechanical advance when they went electronic. A solid-state pickup with advance built into the ICM (like all of the fuel-injected bikes) or all of it together (like most of the aftermarket) seems so much better.
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:10 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxermoose

BTW Rick at Mottorand electric still does the bean can rebuilds
He does? A few months ago (actually April or May, now) he told me the guy who does them for him wasnt going to, anymore. Maybe something changed since then. I went for used- got one for about $150.

The evil side of me says they never went to solid state because of the $500 tag on replacements cans :whistle
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:32 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxermoose
A little birdy told me that they are working on a solid state replacement for the bean can and it should be available in the new year
Who is this "they?"

I thought BMW never looked back as far as older model support was concerned.


Yes, Rick (as of a couple days ago) still has the repair service. He farms them out and only replaces the hall sensors, not the springs.
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:50 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
He does? A few months ago (actually April or May, now) he told me the guy who does them for him wasnt going to, anymore. Maybe something changed since then. I went for used- got one for about $150.

The evil side of me says they never went to solid state because of the $500 tag on replacements cans :whistle
email from Rick today - $175 to do the rebuild

I'll give more info on the solid state part when THEY say it's OK to do so, whoever they are
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:54 PM   #52
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Thats good news!
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:05 PM   #53
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I think we need to change the title of this thread to "Rebuild, upgrade, downgrade, or degrade your ignition system."
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Old 10-01-2008, 02:06 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
I think we need to change the title of this thread to "Rebuild, upgrade, downgrade, or degrade your ignition system."


Actually I got a note back from Rick saying it was OK to post - so here is his response;

"Sure, but it's still very much in the development phase, since the first test units are only just now out running. If all goes well, it should make it to market at some point in the near future.
Cheers, R"
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Old 10-01-2008, 04:37 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
In 10 years, will hall sensors still be available?
Yes. Otherwise a lot of VW, Porches, GM veichles will be out of parts too...

Consider that the bikes started using them some 29 years ago .. the cars even older .. and the parts are sill bing installed on new bikes .. so I think you're safe for quite some time on getting the hall effect switches.

If Rick goes with electronic advance then there'd be no reason not to go with knock sensors too (other than increased costs and complexity )

Thread tilte - "looking into a can of beans" ?
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Old 10-01-2008, 05:24 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Warner

Thread tilte - "looking into a can of beans" ?
That one definitely has merit as well.
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:45 AM   #57
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Ok evildoers... I got a little hands on from the shop floor guys since my normal machinist is on a hunting trip.

Per the bridgeport mill in the next bldg,

Found center using a co-axial indicator and the offsets for the holes are:
X = .438 (avg of 2) offset from centerline
Y = .646

So, 2nd sensor's holes are in place. more to come later.

Assembly begins.
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:37 PM   #58
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hey there

Been following this thread and wondering how the fab is going. Thinking about doing the same thing on my '80 G/S because I want to go with the enduralast alternator.

Reliability is here nor there, all the systems I'm sure work fine, but fix'n the thing in the middle of no where is what I'm after.

Rather than rebuilding the original can, I'm thinking about getting one off an earlier bike. Other than the cost and shear challenge of using the OEM can, was there a reason you didn't go that rout?


thanks
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Old 12-04-2008, 05:20 AM   #59
datchew OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batoutoflahonda
Been following this thread and wondering how the fab is going. Thinking about doing the same thing on my '80 G/S because I want to go with the enduralast alternator.

Reliability is here nor there, all the systems I'm sure work fine, but fix'n the thing in the middle of no where is what I'm after.

Rather than rebuilding the original can, I'm thinking about getting one off an earlier bike. Other than the cost and shear challenge of using the OEM can, was there a reason you didn't go that rout?


thanks
Assuming this is directed at me, I in fact changed my bike over to the advance cannister that has points from a 79-80 style bike. I now have points, condensor, and a 3-ohm coil and nothing else.

I'm still rebuilding the hall sensor cannister. I have to finish my buddy's bike and then we're going to build a drill jig. After that, i'll reassemble my hall sensor cannister, test it, and I don't know what after that, but I'm not putting it in the bike.

Stagehand sent me a cannister in pieces and of course, DIRTY . His will get the first "treatment" on the prototype drill jig and we'll see if we can bring it back to life.
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Old 12-04-2008, 05:28 AM   #60
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Jaycar has the sensors for a sensible figure- buy 25 and they are around
$US8- each.

They also have a fully programmable high energy ignition system kit which will run from a hall sensor , and a add on kit to take a knock sensor.
Less than $US100- all up plus a knock sensor from a boneyard.

So , lock the A/R unit up solid somehow, maybe just replace the springs with lockwire, run the sensor wire to the new module and you are good to go.

If you have the gear and the know how , that is - the kit is described as complex, requiring a good knowledge of electronics and manual dexterity to ensure success.

i dont fit that description on both counts , but that probably wont stop me having a go at it over the xmas break- just depends how much time I get off.
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