bean can ignition advance module rebuild - Page 6

StephenB · 04-22-2009, 03:36 PM

Dean says ... huh? Well, tell Dean that one will use of course a coil with more than 2.2Ohm primary resistance so that the points aren't fried after 200km. Also, tell him, that just points on a dual-plugged won't do. One needed to play with the mechanical advance to get it right. Oak or Ted do know and have written articles.
Therefore points-in-a-beancan is considered an emergency backup to get you home single-plugged on a (single or) dual-plugged bike that looses its electronic ignition.

datchew · 04-22-2009, 03:44 PM

sounds like some believers are coming into the fold.

I suspect ebay prices are going to be up for awhile. Thing is, there are only so many 1980-81 beancans out there.

StephenB · 04-22-2009, 05:12 PM

Sorry, datchew ... 1979-1980 !

The R45 and R65 had them as well.

datchew · 04-22-2009, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StephenB

Sorry, datchew ... 1979-1980 !

The R45 and R65 had them as well.

Ahh yes, always good to jog my memory. 81 was the onset of the hall sensor. Thanks Stephen!

SOLO LOBO · 05-31-2009, 02:08 PM

Question for you Datchew,

I just stripped and cleaned the internals of my canister, but like an idiot I "cleaned" the mark off that told me how to orient the keyed piece that fits into the cam slot.

I am guessing it can sit either way, and don't know if being 180 degrees out will be a bad thing, and how I would know if I have the orientation correct or not.

Anyone know if it is an issue and how I can tell if I have it set-up correctly or 180 degrees out?

camgregus · 05-31-2009, 05:08 PM

I did that too and mine keeps workin.

as is.

SOLO LOBO · 05-31-2009, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camgregus

I did that too and mine keeps workin.

as is.

Yea, I'm gonna fire mine up and see if it runs... if not I'll pull the bean can and invert that piece and try again

Rob Farmer · 05-31-2009, 11:11 PM

Ref the points in a bean can.

I tried a 1980 bean can on my mono. The advance curve from the points unit was less than the Mono's standard can so if the bike was ticking over correctly you didn't get full advance at the top end. Mine had a boyer conversion in it so the curve could have been down to that. It's worth checking the advance curves before spending all that cash on a points can.

A better modification would be to fit a 2nd hall sensor in your existing can. Frank Warner, from this parish, did an excellent writeup here --> http://www.geocities.com/fwarner_au/...gn_sensor.html

I bought several Hall sensors from Newark electronics but I see these guys have them for $19 each http://www.bbautomacao.com/home_hall...e_sensors.html (it's the BBHME56 sensor).

Airhead Wrangler · 06-01-2009, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob Farmer

Mine had a boyer conversion in it so the curve could have been down to that. It's worth checking the advance curves before spending all that cash on a points can.

I think I remember reading somewhere that the boyer ignitions had a problem with advancing beyond the intended full advance. That is, above 3k rpm, the intended max advance, the boyer ignition continues to advance. I'm not sure where I read that though.

Rob Farmer · 06-01-2009, 01:43 PM

I've got a Boyer on my 90/6 that does this. It's the analogue model. To get the bike to tickover correctly you have to live with a flat spot below 3k and too much advance at the top end. Not clever and it will be replaced by points very soon.

I had a micro digital fitted in the bean can that didn't advance enough for the 81 on engine. I'm assuming that the heavy flywheel bikes run less advance.

Beemerboff · 06-01-2009, 10:54 PM

The microdigital I have on my R75 advances up to 4200 revs. I have set it to the timing mark at 3200 revs as normal and it gives me a bit more advance than stock at 4200 revs.

I did this in error origonally , but when I set it to the "correct " setting it didnt run as well so it was returned to the wrong setting. This bike has 900 barrels and pistons set to give squish.'Tickover doesnt corncern me as I live outside the city and dont to club runs---------

My low comp light flywheel R100 GS likes less advance than stock - and this has helped to remove the stock bikes flat spot around 27-3200 revs.

I plan on hi comp pistons with squish in the GS, with a Boyer ignition in a points bean can . I will order the one which gives the latest curve, which I think will give me the most options.

datchew · 06-02-2009, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO

Yea, I'm gonna fire mine up and see if it runs... if not I'll pull the bean can and invert that piece and try again

sorry Gage. Slow on the list lately. Too busy.

I'd do the same. If it's 180 out, it might just minutely change the timing and you did that by removing it anyway so no biggy.

And yes, if it's wrong, only 1 way to fix it.

SOLO LOBO · 06-02-2009, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by datchew

sorry Gage. Slow on the list lately. Too busy.

I'd do the same. If it's 180 out, it might just minutely change the timing and you did that by removing it anyway so no biggy.

And yes, if it's wrong, only 1 way to fix it.

Better late than never

Still waiting on my crank nose bearing anyway...

camgregus · 06-02-2009, 07:30 PM

good grief, I feel your pain bro...

datchew · 06-04-2009, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO

Better late than never

Still waiting on my crank nose bearing anyway...

after the picture in your "so i sold my GOOD PARALEVER and bought a JUNK MONOLEVER" thread, I understand more now and posted solution. Doesn't matter which way that thing is on there.

And the phil collins comparison is striking. Eerily striking. Don't feel bad though... people used to tell me I looked like Opie.

04-22-2009, 03:36 PM	#76
StephenB G(/)S ... what else! Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Ontario Oddometer: 1,998	Dean says ... huh? Well, tell Dean that one will use of course a coil with more than 2.2Ohm primary resistance so that the points aren't fried after 200km. Also, tell him, that just points on a dual-plugged won't do. One needed to play with the mechanical advance to get it right. Oak or Ted do know and have written articles. Therefore points-in-a-beancan is considered an emergency backup to get you home single-plugged on a (single or) dual-plugged bike that looses its electronic ignition. __________________ Some of the above is fact, some is fiction, some is my personal imagination and some is just simple truth. [me] ... i'm not touring around the world, but neither are most of the guys i see running overloaded spam cans ... [bmwblake] Stephen Bottcher Ontario, Canada '72 R75/5 The Blues www.stephenbottcher.net

04-22-2009, 03:44 PM	#77
datchew ^OP Don't buy from Brad Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Savannah - the dirty south Oddometer: 7,403	sounds like some believers are coming into the fold. I suspect ebay prices are going to be up for awhile. Thing is, there are only so many 1980-81 beancans out there. __________________ On tap:Nada Aging: 3 experiments in mead - blackberry, apple, and straight honey

04-22-2009, 05:12 PM	#78
StephenB G(/)S ... what else! Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Ontario Oddometer: 1,998	Sorry, datchew ... 1979-1980 ! The R45 and R65 had them as well. __________________ Some of the above is fact, some is fiction, some is my personal imagination and some is just simple truth. [me] ... i'm not touring around the world, but neither are most of the guys i see running overloaded spam cans ... [bmwblake] Stephen Bottcher Ontario, Canada '72 R75/5 The Blues www.stephenbottcher.net

05-31-2009, 05:08 PM	#81
camgregus riding gently now Joined: Feb 2006 Location: on the banks of the mighty mississippi, AR side Oddometer: 2,950	I did that too and mine keeps workin. as is. __________________ got to get it on the good foot

05-31-2009, 11:11 PM	#83
Rob Farmer Beastly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2002 Location: Loughborough, Leicestershire. England Oddometer: 3,794	Ref the points in a bean can. I tried a 1980 bean can on my mono. The advance curve from the points unit was less than the Mono's standard can so if the bike was ticking over correctly you didn't get full advance at the top end. Mine had a boyer conversion in it so the curve could have been down to that. It's worth checking the advance curves before spending all that cash on a points can. A better modification would be to fit a 2nd hall sensor in your existing can. Frank Warner, from this parish, did an excellent writeup here --> http://www.geocities.com/fwarner_au/...gn_sensor.html I bought several Hall sensors from Newark electronics but I see these guys have them for $19 each http://www.bbautomacao.com/home_hall...e_sensors.html (it's the BBHME56 sensor). Rob Farmer screwed with this post 05-31-2009 at 11:28 PM

06-01-2009, 01:43 PM	#85
Rob Farmer Beastly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2002 Location: Loughborough, Leicestershire. England Oddometer: 3,794	I've got a Boyer on my 90/6 that does this. It's the analogue model. To get the bike to tickover correctly you have to live with a flat spot below 3k and too much advance at the top end. Not clever and it will be replaced by points very soon. I had a micro digital fitted in the bean can that didn't advance enough for the 81 on engine. I'm assuming that the heavy flywheel bikes run less advance. Rob Farmer screwed with this post 06-02-2009 at 02:39 AM

06-01-2009, 10:54 PM	#86
Beemerboff Beastly Adventurer Joined: May 2005 Oddometer: 2,066	The microdigital I have on my R75 advances up to 4200 revs. I have set it to the timing mark at 3200 revs as normal and it gives me a bit more advance than stock at 4200 revs. I did this in error origonally , but when I set it to the "correct " setting it didnt run as well so it was returned to the wrong setting. This bike has 900 barrels and pistons set to give squish.'Tickover doesnt corncern me as I live outside the city and dont to club runs--------- My low comp light flywheel R100 GS likes less advance than stock - and this has helped to remove the stock bikes flat spot around 27-3200 revs. I plan on hi comp pistons with squish in the GS, with a Boyer ignition in a points bean can . I will order the one which gives the latest curve, which I think will give me the most options. __________________ Adelaide Hills, Australia. 93 R100 GS, 77 R75/7 ,70 BSA B44VS, , 86 R80 G/S PD, 95 BMW Funduro F650 ST

06-02-2009, 07:30 PM	#89
camgregus riding gently now Joined: Feb 2006 Location: on the banks of the mighty mississippi, AR side Oddometer: 2,950	good grief, I feel your pain bro... __________________ got to get it on the good foot

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