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Old 06-05-2009, 08:24 AM   #91
SOLO LOBO
airhead or nothing
 
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Shoreline, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
after the picture in your "so i sold my GOOD PARALEVER and bought a JUNK MONOLEVER" thread....
Dude, jealousy is an evil emotion....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:09 AM   #92
SOLO LOBO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
I'd do the same. If it's 180 out, it might just minutely change the timing and you did that by removing it anyway so no biggy..
Update on my side... after stripping and cleaning my can I had a backfire.... after finiding I had my timing wrong, and then swinging it all the way to the end of the can's adjustment I find that while the timing is now spot on, I still have a slight pop... might be carb synch so I will re-set that first..

If that doens't fix things (or perhaps regardless) I'm gonna pull the can and rotate the key locator 180 degrees and see what happens
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:11 AM   #93
StephenB
G(/)S ... what else!
 
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Location: Ontario
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Slight pop -> lean idle mixture
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Some of the above is fact, some is fiction, some is my personal imagination and some is just simple truth. [me]

... i'm not touring around the world, but neither are most of the guys i see running overloaded spam cans ... [bmwblake]

Stephen Bottcher
Ontario, Canada

'72 R75/5 The Blues

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Old 06-25-2009, 10:23 AM   #94
SOLO LOBO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenB
Slight pop -> lean idle mixture
you would think, but I took the mixtures out to where the idle stumbled turned in a tiny bit and has the same pop...

I am thinking unsynched cables and perhaps one butterly is closed while another is open under very small throttle openings
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:28 AM   #95
StephenB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO
you would think, but I took the mixtures out to where the idle stumbled turned in a tiny bit and has the same pop...
Is that another proper way to do it? I have the rpm not coming back fast enough to idle (engine brake not as effective as it was), and I am thinking too lean mixture (valves are freshly adjusted at 4/8) as I have a bit of popping too. Can I use your procedure? How much is tiny?
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Some of the above is fact, some is fiction, some is my personal imagination and some is just simple truth. [me]

... i'm not touring around the world, but neither are most of the guys i see running overloaded spam cans ... [bmwblake]

Stephen Bottcher
Ontario, Canada

'72 R75/5 The Blues

www.stephenbottcher.net
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:39 AM   #96
SOLO LOBO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenB
I have the rpm not coming back fast enough to idle (engine brake not as effective as it was),
Have you cleaned your ignition advance weight set-up?

Mine had been doing that hanging at a higher idle a bit for years and never popped, as soon as I cleanded the advance it stopped completely...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:17 AM   #97
StephenB
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Location: Ontario
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OMEGA Ignition
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Some of the above is fact, some is fiction, some is my personal imagination and some is just simple truth. [me]

... i'm not touring around the world, but neither are most of the guys i see running overloaded spam cans ... [bmwblake]

Stephen Bottcher
Ontario, Canada

'72 R75/5 The Blues

www.stephenbottcher.net

StephenB screwed with this post 06-25-2009 at 11:44 AM
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Old 06-25-2009, 06:12 PM   #98
Stagehand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenB
OMEGA Ignition
You could open the intake to 6 and no one would know.

I think the valve adjustment is designed to drive me nuts. I know I cant fit the .2mm in to the intake, so it must be good.

Isnt hanging idle a possible sign of small air leak? I just did a valve and carb adjust...Used Bings idle procedure. Slight popping is lean, I heard, as well. And on Decel it would on the idle circuit. I've been popping on decel since I put the Staintune and Ypipe on.
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:11 PM   #99
boxermoose
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Location: Gulf Coast TX
Oddometer: 2,821
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
Isnt hanging idle a possible sign of small air leak? I just did a valve and carb adjust...Used Bings idle procedure. Slight popping is lean, I heard, as well. And on Decel it would on the idle circuit. I've been popping on decel since I put the Staintune and Ypipe on.
If the idle hangs or increases at a stop then it is probably the can - easy way to tell is to shut the bike off and then re-start - usually it will return to set idle unless really dirty like mine was

Air leak - mist a little starting fluid/ether around the joints and see if it increases from a steady idle or blows up

Had a great time last weekend rebuilding the carbs with the full Bing kit and re-cleaning the can again. I had to special order the tri-flow lub I've heard ya'll talk about

The amount of crap around the main jets after 50k miles was totally astounding
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:16 AM   #100
datchew OP
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this ain't soundin like bean can talkin to meh.

Put this stuff in the Phil Collins paralever jealousy neverending upgrade thread.
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:32 AM   #101
Airhead Wrangler
Adios Mexico
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
Phil Collins paralever jealousy neverending upgrade
Oooohhhhhhh, burrrrrrrrrn.
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Old 06-26-2009, 09:08 AM   #102
SOLO LOBO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
Put this stuff in the Phil Collins paralever jealousy neverending upgrade thread.
oooh, ouch...

whitty response forthcoming
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:08 PM   #103
adrenal
www.cafebeemer.com.au
 
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
this ain't soundin like bean can talkin to meh.
Interesting thread.
I've been mucking around with my hall effect beancan for dual plugging.
Discovered a few things, one of which is that earlier hall effect beancans had heavier bobweights and slightly stiffer springs. If you combine the earlier springs with the later lighter bobweights then this stretches the timing curve a bit (RPM at which max advance occurs.) I just started a blog. 1st chapter is about timing for dual plugging. It contains a dyno run comparing 2 beancan strategies for dual plug timing.


I'm pretty sure that my modified beancan is suffering from stiction despite me cleaning the innards and using a light grade teflon filled silicon grease on the rotating bits. I might have missed previous posts on this but I googled Tri-flow. What I found is a drying type lubricant. Is this what people have had success with?

Blog is here:

http://www.cafebeemer.com.au/blog.htm
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:56 PM   #104
Malindi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batoutoflahonda
Been following this thread and wondering how the fab is going. Thinking about doing the same thing on my '80 G/S because I want to go with the enduralast alternator.
An Enduralast is a good idea. I have two of them. On my G/S, it went through about 20 countries in 2006/2007. It's a "Honda" sort of experience... It never fails, never waivers and it makes the whole charging/battery discussion seem like some old dinosaur thing.
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:12 PM   #105
boxermoose
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Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Gulf Coast TX
Oddometer: 2,821
Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenal
I'm pretty sure that my modified beancan is suffering from stiction despite me cleaning the innards and using a light grade teflon filled silicon grease on the rotating bits. I might have missed previous posts on this but I googled Tri-flow. What I found is a drying type lubricant. Is this what people have had success with?
I finally used the tri-flow dry but only used it on the sliding portion. Took it apart and cleaned with scotchbrite soaked in brake cleaner

I used the reg tri-flow liquid on the weights and the upper bushing

The bore of the sliding portion was a little scored up but the hope is the dry will kind of fill the grooves - works so far
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