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Old 01-05-2014, 05:06 AM   #16021
MrBas
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Joined: Jan 2014
Location: Den Haag, Nederland
Oddometer: 3
Here's my ride

http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/mr...b5df0.jpg.html

MrBas screwed with this post 01-17-2014 at 04:03 AM
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:35 PM   #16022
TRBaron
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Grafton NSW Australia
Oddometer: 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRBaron View Post
I was actually just in at my local shop yesterday talking to Claudia [Former KTM rallye team manager and she actually used to have a TA600 back in Europe] about these tyres and apparently they aren't being imported to Australia in either size and the only 17" K3s coming in are 150/70 and 170/60.

http://www.gmotoimports.com.au is supposedly the AU importer for metzler.

So I just went with a set of mitas E07 tyres for now, we'll see how they go and whats available next time I need a change.

Also I've emailed Metzler Australia about the situation, maybe if they're interested in this market they can try and sort something out.
I wont hold my breath though.

Well I just finished talking to Gmoto [the importer] and they said that there was high demand and some shortages last year but now they should be in stock in 138/80 - 17
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:47 PM   #16023
skeptic
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: SoCal
Oddometer: 286
CDI repair

I have low mileage T/A - 11,000 miles and just had to replace a CDI module. Is there anyone stateside who repairs them? My reading of this thread leads me to believe that the primary failure mode is that thesolder junctions fail and require resoldering after removal of the potting material.
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Old 01-08-2014, 03:13 PM   #16024
mas335
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Piedmont region NC
Oddometer: 1,886
Quote:
Originally Posted by skeptic View Post
I have low mileage T/A - 11,000 miles and just had to replace a CDI module. Is there anyone stateside who repairs them? My reading of this thread leads me to believe that the primary failure mode is that thesolder junctions fail and require resoldering after removal of the potting material.
I don't know of anyone in the US who repairs them. Repairing them is hit or miss, I have had quite a bit of electrical repair experience with vintage point to point hand wired tube amps and tried to fix a dead CDI. Even though I found several weak solder points and repaired them it still didn't work.

Just getting the back off without damaging anything and then scraping all the rubber sealant off the circut board without scratching it was labor intensive. If you make it that far you then need to fabricate a water tight cover for the CDI and seal it all back up.

I would just buy a new CDI and pass on repairing a 25 year old CDI. Unless someone wanted to repair them for fun the labor time/cost plus shipping both ways would be a big chunk of the cost towards a imported non Honda brand CDI which most of us are very happy with. They tend to run around $70.00 to $85.00


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mas335 screwed with this post 01-09-2014 at 01:38 AM
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Old 01-09-2014, 05:10 AM   #16025
Galba
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Italy
Oddometer: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwb View Post
Of the handguards? Sure. I guess people are more interested in the problems than anything else. I started out with "let's get some badass hand guards" and ended up having to get a bar, too. Problem there was I got the Tusk guards and there's just no way to mount them to the factory bar because of the sweep. So then I think "good opportunity to get a higher bar" but Honda had the last laugh there. The factory bar is already higher than any bend anyone makes! The Pro Taper ATV High bend is just about as high as the factory bar. I got the Pro Taper ATV Mid, because some local guy had one cheap.

The Tusk guards mount right up to the Pro Taper bars. Here's what they look like from up above.




Everything basically fits. The factory switches have little bosses on the lower halves that fit into holes on the factory bar. With an aftermarket bar you can either drill holes in the bar or cut off the switch bosses with a razor. I chose the latter. And of course to mount hand guards you have to saw the end off your throttle tube and cut the ends off both grips.

As for clearance, there's hardly any. The ridiculous brake line barely clears the mount for the handguard. I'm looking around for a brake master cylinder that has a banjo fitting on the back instead of the side. And maybe eliminating the hard brake pipe because it interferes with the light, too.



You can see in this pic how the brake line hits the frame of the light. Also note on the far side how the clutch cable has to run around the hand guard brace, and note the way the throttle cable is crammed in behind the light. I'm considering re-routing the throttle cable so it goes over the top of the bar and around the light. The factory cable isn't long enough to do that, though.



Complaints about fitment aside, I'm pleased as punch with the equipment. The bar geometry is great, the computer reads speed and distance exactly, and the light is really fabulous.


For the handguards I solved in this way




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Old 01-09-2014, 05:28 AM   #16026
Galba
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Italy
Oddometer: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spina View Post
Hi! The bike is finally going great, after a valve check, and the oil dripping is gone! So I'm happy about that, finally! Apart from the fact that I have completely destroyed my fairings during a small accident two weeks ago,...so in the future I'll probably have to rebuild them.

I've seen some great example here on the forum, does anyone know who should I contact about these two transalp? I would like to know about measures and materials...
http://imgur.com/JgQeQ1f http://imgur.com/sgJFv3h

Other than that, I don't have the skill to actually build thing like center stand or crashbar, but my uncle might..
Does anyone has tried to build a center stand and crashbar for a TA600 and could share the "schematic"? ( I don't know what word to use in english sorry )

Thanks! : )


For the center stand and crashbar can take this

http://www.ebay.it/itm/PARAMOTORE-GI...e17d04d&_uhb=1

http://www.ebay.it/itm/transalp-1988...ab6130f&_uhb=1
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Old 01-09-2014, 06:52 AM   #16027
Spina
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Milano, Italy
Oddometer: 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by Galba View Post
Thanks, but for a lower price I could get the ones from heavyduties.ro I'll probably by from them at least the crashbars, and I will probably build this http://tecnica.transalp.it/ricambi_access_mod.php?id=33. Not as effective as the fixed center stand, but it gets the work done.
But first, I have to spend some money to replace the steering bearings, they're beginning to be a big safety problem : ( , so the crashbars will have to wait...
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Old 01-09-2014, 07:14 AM   #16028
TransAfrika
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Joined: Jun 2013
Location: Wesel / germany
Oddometer: 121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spina View Post
Thanks, but for a lower price I could get the ones from heavyduties.ro I'll probably by from them at least the crashbars, and I will probably build this http://tecnica.transalp.it/ricambi_access_mod.php?id=33. Not as effective as the fixed center stand, but it gets the work done.
But first, I have to spend some money to replace the steering bearings, they're beginning to be a big safety problem : ( , so the crashbars will have to wait...
Hi i looked to this link and think a thing like this

would work for you better and saver like the selfmade one, when the bike moves and crashs on you i think thats no fun..

The stands are cheap to get used or new my costs 20 euro i bought it for my wifes bike, and works pretty well.
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:26 AM   #16029
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spina View Post
Thanks, but for a lower price I could get the ones from heavyduties.ro I'll probably by from them at least the crashbars, and I will probably build this http://tecnica.transalp.it/ricambi_access_mod.php?id=33. Not as effective as the fixed center stand, but it gets the work done.
But first, I have to spend some money to replace the steering bearings, they're beginning to be a big safety problem : ( , so the crashbars will have to wait...
I like that folding bi-pod stand. You could probably even make it from alloy. For light weight on the trail, this works.... http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=15733 . I didn't want to add the weight of a real center stand.... but this thing is so dang heavy now, I'm not sure it matters anymore.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:42 AM   #16030
Spina
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Milano, Italy
Oddometer: 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I like that folding bi-pod stand. You could probably even make it from alloy. For light weight on the trail, this works.... http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=15733 . I didn't want to add the weight of a real center stand.... but this thing is so dang heavy now, I'm not sure it matters anymore.
Thanks! Added to the project folder! : )
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Old 01-09-2014, 03:26 PM   #16031
jwb
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Oakland
Oddometer: 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by Galba View Post
For the handguards I solved in this way




Nice. The Tusk handguards can't be mounted below the crossbar like your Acerbis guards. The geometry just doesn't work. I like your flipped throttle, except for losing the kill switch.
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Old 01-11-2014, 02:46 PM   #16032
ghulst
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Joined: Nov 2012
Location: Netherlands
Oddometer: 79
I have been riding my XL600V (US spec model '89) for almost a year now. Over the past couple of months, I have been using it as a commuter as well and I have found that its major shortcoming is its power. As our limits are around 75-85 on the highway, the Transalp is not the ideal bike to have to accelerate out of a tricky situation.

Anyway, I like the TransAlp, but I would like to improve on it. What would be a number of easy and cheap improvements I can make to the Alp to make me enjoy it better? I mostly use it on paved roads, but in time would like to take it on a longer journey and off road as well.

Any suggestions very welcome.



(Oh, and the Alp in question.)
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Old 01-11-2014, 06:07 PM   #16033
selah
Crestone
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Oddometer: 63
Saying good bye to the Africa Alp

Sadly it is time to sell the Africa Alp. This is one of the early Transalp to Africa Twin conversions. Jeff's modification of the bike is chronicled in the "Show us your Transalp Modifications" starting around post #740

I just posted in the flea market. Making it available to you all before I list it elsewhere.

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Old 01-12-2014, 02:26 AM   #16034
TransAfrika
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Joined: Jun 2013
Location: Wesel / germany
Oddometer: 121
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghulst View Post
I have been riding my XL600V (US spec model '89) for almost a year now. Over the past couple of months, I have been using it as a commuter as well and I have found that its major shortcoming is its power. As our limits are around 75-85 on the highway, the Transalp is not the ideal bike to have to accelerate out of a tricky situation.

Anyway, I like the TransAlp, but I would like to improve on it. What would be a number of easy and cheap improvements I can make to the Alp to make me enjoy it better? I mostly use it on paved roads, but in time would like to take it on a longer journey and off road as well.

Any suggestions very welcome.



(Oh, and the Alp in question.)
Hi , i think modding is a fine thing it makes the bike individual. When you take the time like i does and look from beginning to the end of the thread you will find many usefull ideas and solutions for many problems. The cheap way is a relative cause what is cheap..... mostly i recovered that only cheapness is not even the best, some parts make big improvement but are not realy cheap, for example a better brake or new progressive fork springs a new spring ora compl. new suspension for the rear exaust system and so on .... .
Best is you tell us what you want to go better, and what exactly you wish for, then we can help .

Ride on.
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Old 01-12-2014, 04:15 AM   #16035
nevgriff64
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Melbourne Australia
Oddometer: 13,577
Picked this up earlier in the week.



Decided to strip it down so I could give it a good clean/check over and service what was needed.



Found a few little things that will need attention but all in all, pretty good condition for a 1987 model.



Now, back to page one of this thread to find out what to do with it.
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