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Old 11-25-2008, 03:47 AM   #5611
mas335
xendurist
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Piedmont region NC
Oddometer: 1,918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solusar
Yep, an '87 model (about 72,000k) with bushings as I understand the needle bearings started with the '89+ models. Deti mentioned in one of his pages that needle bearings could fit in older models.

Would a bike stand/lift like what Locorider has be sturdy enough to work on rear suspension components or does the bike need to be supported from overhead too?


Will start searching for sources for bushings...hopefully other than a slow boat from Honda Japan.

mas- you said a PAIR of TA's? wow, I think you would of had a niche in the parts department for sought after parts on that deal...hehe.

The linkage and swing arm could take a total of 9 bearings and I am pretty sure they are all identical. In some locations Honda used a pair at a time although I have seem single bearings used as well. They are pricey so I am with Ray, disassemble and clean what you have. More than likely that will solve the problem. Most bushings that I have seen are made of a bronze alloy so they should not be contributing to any rust build up. That is a fair amount of miles and bushings do wear.

When you get into this project remove the wheel, chain and the rear shock before disassembling anything else. Then try to move the swingarm through its normal range of travel. That should at least tell you if the swingarm is binding in anyway. That info should at least help identify where the problem is but I would still clean everything.

Regarding the two Canadian Transalps, One was supposed to have been the lowest recorded serial number for a North American Transalp and hence the oldest one around but junk is junk. These bikes had a ton of miles on them and hardly a part worth wanting. Every part on these bikes were cracked, bent, rusted, rotted, decayed, faded, torn, pitted, dented, etc. I passed on them. All I was really interested in were the gold anodized wheels which were damaged. It was really a sad sight.
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mas335 screwed with this post 11-29-2008 at 04:51 PM
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:58 AM   #5612
locorider
Loco, pero no estúpido!
 
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Puerto Rico, U.S.A.
Oddometer: 2,471
Play safe, and buy a bike jack. I bought mine for $79.00, but Ray's model is an aluminum one and could easily top $200.00. But always take precautions. There are loops to put straps to stabilize the bike. My bike has a custom skidplate that provides a better platform. BTW, the jack you see in the picture is rated to 1500lbs.

mas335: You sure have everything neat down under!!!! Did you painted the links area?
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1989 Honda XL600V Transalp, slightly modified!

"If you don't follow your dreams, you might as well be a vegetable", Burt Munro, The World's Fastest Indian
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:53 AM   #5613
mas335
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Piedmont region NC
Oddometer: 1,918
Quote:
Originally Posted by locorider
Play safe, and buy a bike jack. I bought mine for $79.00, but Ray's model is an aluminum one and could easily top $200.00. But always take precautions. There are loops to put straps to stabilize the bike. My bike has a custom skidplate that provides a better platform. BTW, the jack you see in the picture is rated to 1500lbs.

mas335: You sure have everything neat down under!!!! Did you painted the links area?
Yeh, I took this right after I did a frame up restoration on a bike and needed to send images to help advertise the bike. The color is a little to metalic silver but not for long. They never look cleaner than the day I am done with them.
I thought the image may help show what is involved in servicing the linkage. Honda recommends Molybdenum 40 grease on this linkage but any clean grease is better than nothing.
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Old 11-25-2008, 07:14 AM   #5614
ravelv
from Baltic side of river
 
Joined: May 2008
Oddometer: 444
Here is my bike "jack" built in 10 minutes using scrap 12mm plywood. :)
Stock bashplate also is enough flat to keep bike enough stable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by locorider
Play safe, and buy a bike jack. I bought mine for $79.00, but Ray's model is an aluminum one and could easily top $200.00. But always take precautions. There are loops to put straps to stabilize the bike. My bike has a custom skidplate that provides a better platform. BTW, the jack you see in the picture is rated to 1500lbs.
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Old 11-25-2008, 08:53 AM   #5615
Ladder106
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Oddometer: 4,924
Mas,

As they say on "Serenity"....."SHINY"

Rave,

Great idea on the stand....looks like you also have wood skills (Wood and I just DO NOT get along...unless I'm burning it)

The downside (for us F.O.G.s) is: By the time you get the bike on the stand, your back hurts too much to work on it. Particularly true with the suspension mods.

But I LOVE your photos. First time I've really seen what the euro bikes look like with the factory centerstand mounts..
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Old 11-25-2008, 09:32 AM   #5616
ravelv
from Baltic side of river
 
Joined: May 2008
Oddometer: 444
Yes, wood is another my hobby and this is not best job I've done. :)
Agree that real jack is better, but I don't have place to store it, my bike is on streat for whole year- no garage as well.

Next time I will work on bike, I will take better photos of center stand mounts and their sizes as well- remember that somebody has asked from here for it and I keep this in my mind. And will have to work as I got finally whole RD03 rear brake system and now can put proper brake caliper bracket from RD03 to my africa-alp! :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106

Great idea on the stand....looks like you also have wood skills (Wood and I just DO NOT get along...unless I'm burning it)

The downside (for us F.O.G.s) is: By the time you get the bike on the stand, your back hurts too much to work on it. Particularly true with the suspension mods.

But I LOVE your photos. First time I've really seen what the euro bikes look like with the factory centerstand mounts..
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Old 11-25-2008, 09:54 AM   #5617
nomiles
Sledge-o-matic
 
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Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Bay Area ~ NorCal
Oddometer: 4,002

I took a 500 mile ride last weekend, down the California coast to an ADV gathering in Morro Bay. About 100 miles into it the engine started crapping out, seemed to be starving for fuel. I had to stop and pull over. I found the vacuum line to the petcock slightly loose, I cut the end off and it was a bit tighter, that fix got me 10 more miles to a gas station in Carmel.

I had replaced the vacuum line about 8 months ago with some from the auto parts, but it was slightly larger OD and I couldn't use the old spring clamp, and fuel vapor/heat/oil and a nipple with no barb on it let it leak. In this pic I'm making a hose clamp from safety wire, I also checked the little sediment bowl and that fuel actually flowed when a vacuum was put on the line. OK, that got me going down HWY 1 but I was still worried. My worries were valid, still have a problem.

I think I also have a CDI module failing, the bike still will crap out at speed, stutters, and runs 'soft' then starts running again. It would have a huge flat spot when going from steady throttle to WFO to pass etc. The tach never actually died to 0 BUT I did see it move up>> towards red line a few times, like a clutch slip. I'm thinking it's the CDI for the front cyl? I do have a new CDI unit just didn't switch it out when I should have in Morro Bay, because the ride home sucked! Having 2 problems at once is always fun! but it's not the first time it's happened to me.

The engine did die on me 10 miles from home on the freeway! as a last little scare for the ride, got it fired up and got home.

My question is: where is a good place to get a new CDI module? I have a new OEM part and would prefer another, but what about the eBay CDI's that are made in Argentina? any good? also how about carb rebuild kits?

Haven't had a chance to fool with it yet but will be going over the fuel system and ignition soon. The bike has always been trouble free up to now.


***** Also sometime back our TA thread lost one of it's 5 stars! It makes it easier to find on the list. some subhuman bmw/wee/klr guy got jealous? so if you haven't rated the thread we need you to go to the first post and hit the rating button with *****
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Old 11-25-2008, 10:03 AM   #5618
debaisley
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Rotterdam , NY
Oddometer: 1,423
I just scored a TA CDI on ebay for 50 $ , and I believe the guy who sold it to me had another , might have sold already though. I have a question , how hard was it to remove the side panel without taking the crashbar off ? I have never tried it.

still for sale

http://cgi.ebay.com/90-HONDA-XL600-T...1%7C240%3A1318
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Old 11-25-2008, 10:18 AM   #5619
Ladder106
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Oddometer: 4,924
Nomiles,

Gocha covered with a spare CDI if you need one right away and can get to Davis....or I could meet you somewhere.

Sounds like this is exactly the problem you're having. The vacuum line (because there's a vacuum) will kinda "selfseal" even when the fit isn't perfect and the engine problem will not be intermittant.

The intermittant cutting out and flat spot (running on one cylinder) is most likely the CDI. The wierd tach readings would seem to support this.

I've had two go bad...one just quit. All stop, no resuscitation possible. The other went intermittant and if I jiggled the wires it would reconnect. Kinda dangerous when a Kenworth is 2 care lengths off your rear fender.

Anyways, I've got one if you need one fast.
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Old 11-25-2008, 10:28 AM   #5620
showkey
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Wausau
Oddometer: 1,869
CDI? Fuel problem?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nomiles

I think I also have a CDI module failing, the bike still will crap out at speed, stutters, and runs 'soft' then starts running again.

The engine did die on me 10 miles from home on the freeway! as a last little scare for the ride, got it fired up and got home.

My question is: where is a good place to get a new CDI module? I have a new OEM part and would prefer another, but what about the eBay CDI's that are made in Argentina? any good? also how about carb rebuild kits?

Haven't had a chance to fool with it yet but will be going over the fuel system and ignition soon. The bike has always been trouble free up to now.


***** Also sometime back our TA thread lost one of it's 5 stars! It makes it easier to find on the list. some subhuman bmw/wee/klr guy got jealous? so if you haven't rated the thread we need you to go to the first post and hit the rating button with *****
In theory if a CDI unit is failing or failed the engine should run one cylinder and it would be unlikely both units are going bad at the same time. From your description the bike died???? completely...... coast to the side of the rode??

So..........

I mentioned this problem a couple of weeks ago......if its spark?
Troubleshooting "over the phone" is tough and one size does not fit all.....the CDI units ground through the side stand switch (green wire) if the switch is not making contact or partial contact it will kill the spark or make weak spark on both cylinders. The switch is designed to kill the spark if the stand is down and the bike is in gear. Ground the green wire at the switch connection behind the left side cover this will bypass the switch bike will run stand down in gear. Test for ground connection with an ohm meter at the switch. Shop manual shows the switch test. Sealed switch, water inside can cause corrosion and intermittent connection......moving the switch can change the quality of the connection.
"Runs soft" sounds alittle like fuel delivery problem.....fuel tank cap venting problem??? Intermmittent vacume petcock??? Crap in the tank??
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Old 11-25-2008, 10:32 AM   #5621
Santa
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Does sound CDI related. You say the tach reading jumped?
simulate a lean condition by turning off the gas while running.

If others are seeking spare CDI's I have two to sell as well
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Old 11-25-2008, 10:42 AM   #5622
nomiles
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Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Bay Area ~ NorCal
Oddometer: 4,002
Thanks guys for the all quick replies!

and thanks, Ray but I don't need a CDI right now, I have a new oem spare. Thanks, showkey, I also was thinking about the sidestand switch, and I have the factory shop manual (there's one on eBay right now if anybody needs one)

Just loaded my truck and have to go to work (sucks) now, will get back to you all later.

again THANKS!
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Old 11-25-2008, 11:45 AM   #5623
ravelv
from Baltic side of river
 
Joined: May 2008
Oddometer: 444
Was trying to wash RD03 caliper bracket, well, seems that I have to look for more extreme washing chemicals as dirt bike cleaner, acetone, soap cleaned only half dirt... Seems that poor RD03 where never washed...
Any suggestions?
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Old 11-25-2008, 11:51 AM   #5624
Jim Rowley
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Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Black Forest, Colorado
Oddometer: 2,512
Quote:
Originally Posted by ravelv
Was trying to wash RD03 caliper bracket, well, seems that I have to look for more extreme washing chemicals as dirt bike cleaner, acetone, soap cleaned only half dirt... Seems that poor RD03 where never washed...
Any suggestions?
A wire brush and clear paint to protect it after the cleanup.

Jim.
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Old 11-25-2008, 12:09 PM   #5625
locorider
Loco, pero no estúpido!
 
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Puerto Rico, U.S.A.
Oddometer: 2,471
I was about to say the same...good picture of the centerstand mount!!!!





Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
Mas,

As they say on "Serenity"....."SHINY"

Rave,

Great idea on the stand....looks like you also have wood skills (Wood and I just DO NOT get along...unless I'm burning it)

The downside (for us F.O.G.s) is: By the time you get the bike on the stand, your back hurts too much to work on it. Particularly true with the suspension mods.

But I LOVE your photos. First time I've really seen what the euro bikes look like with the factory centerstand mounts..
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1989 Honda XL600V Transalp, slightly modified!

"If you don't follow your dreams, you might as well be a vegetable", Burt Munro, The World's Fastest Indian
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