Show us your TransAlp modifications!

[locorider]

It seems like it was powder coated or painted...

Originally Posted by ravelv

Was trying to wash RD03 caliper bracket, well, seems that I have to look for more extreme washing chemicals as dirt bike cleaner, acetone, soap cleaned only half dirt... Seems that poor RD03 where never washed...
Any suggestions?

[mas335]

Originally Posted by ravelv

Was trying to wash RD03 caliper bracket, well, seems that I have to look for more extreme washing chemicals as dirt bike cleaner, acetone, soap cleaned only half dirt... Seems that poor RD03 where never washed...
Any suggestions?

Try a spray type carburator cleaner or better yet something with the chemical MEK in it. Don't breath it!

[mas335]

Originally Posted by Santa

Does sound CDI related. You say the tach reading jumped?
simulate a lean condition by turning off the gas while running.

If others are seeking spare CDI's I have two to sell as well

I won't go for a ride without a spare pair in a holder ready to install. Not for me of course but for that one in a million chance I'll run into one of you guys on the side of the road wishing you had a spare CDI module with you.

[locorider]

Now we have five stars, again!!! *****

[wdeTA]

Couple comments on these two current issues from experieces early this summer before my Alaska trip.

Dogbone/Swingarm bearings:
Since I planned to have the rear suspension apart to replace the rear shock prior to my trip, I figured I might as well replace all the needle bearing while I had it apart. Individually they aren't very expensive, but there are two different sizes involved, and there are a bunch of them, so they add up. The real problem is that they are a real PITA to get in and out. Really requires a hydraulic press with the correct fttings to properly get them in and out. Finally decided to just pay a shop to press most of them out/in. In the end, just wish I had carefully taken them apart (so as not to lose needles), and cleaned/regreased them. Also, to get all of them out you have to deal with that clever Honda design feature that requires you to remove the exhaust to get one of the bolts out. If you take the exhaust parts apart to do this, I suggest you get new gaskets prior to starting the whole project.

CDI/rough running:
While the problem reported could be the CDI (I've had one fail somewhat similarly), it also sounds like carb problems which I've had several of. There are numerous pathways in the carbs that can be easily plugged and cause sporatic problems. Midway through my trip I got some bad gas, or sucked something in through the air box and caused similar rough running issues. Started and idled fine, and ran at high RPMs fine, but everything in between was not well. Took the carbs apart, cleaned them thouroghly, and all was good again. Advice on ADVrider is to be sure to use motorcycle specific carb cleaner, and not auto carb cleaner since the auto version may destroy the gaskets and o-rings in the carbs.

A few years ago a bad float valve turned out to be the problem where the bike would run fine for a while then start coughing and quit all together. The valve and seat looked and appeared to work just fine, but replacing them solved my problems

Hope this helps,
Dale

[ravelv]

No, this is a bit better... These are crops from pictures about fitting AT swingarm, so, don't be surprised about hanging bolt in center of picture.

Originally Posted by locorider

I was about to say the same...good picture of the centerstand mount!!!!

[ravelv]

If bearings are ok, I recommend to replace sealings, especially that one in triangle-shock joint place- these are weakest ones comparing to others.
Replacing bearings in triangle was very simple with home tools without any press. I did twice for RD03 triangle in shock mount place due to rusted bearings because of cracked sealings... Yes, these are indeed weak.

I also never removed exaust when removing suspension.

Originally Posted by wdeTA

Dogbone/Swingarm bearings:
Since I planned to have the rear suspension apart to replace the rear shock prior to my trip, I figured I might as well replace all the needle bearing while I had it apart. Individually they aren't very expensive, but there are two different sizes involved, and there are a bunch of them, so they add up. The real problem is that they are a real PITA to get in and out. Really requires a hydraulic press with the correct fttings to properly get them in and out. Finally decided to just pay a shop to press most of them out/in. In the end, just wish I had carefully taken them apart (so as not to lose needles), and cleaned/regreased them. Also, to get all of them out you have to deal with that clever Honda design feature that requires you to remove the exhaust to get one of the bolts out. If you take the exhaust parts apart to do this, I suggest you get new gaskets prior to starting the whole project.

[Santa]

Originally Posted by mas335

I won't go for a ride without a spare pair in a holder ready to install. Not for me of course but for that one in a million chance I'll run into one of you guys on the side of the road wishing you had a spare CDI module with you.

Kinda like Grey Poupon eh?

[soloyosh]

Originally Posted by mas335

Try a spray type carburator cleaner or better yet something with the chemical MEK in it. Don't breath it!

Careful with that stuff. In the environmental cleanup field we called that stuff Methyl-Ethyl-Killyoubad.

[Ladder106]

Seems that poor RD03 where never washed...
Any suggestions?

I'd bead blast it....then clearcoat. It'll give you a "matte" type finish though. If you want shiny....it's going to take time and effort.

[locorider]

Did you posted a RR about your trip to Alaska?

Originally Posted by wdeTA

Couple comments on these two current issues from experieces early this summer before my Alaska trip.

Dogbone/Swingarm bearings:
Since I planned to have the rear suspension apart to replace the rear shock prior to my trip, I figured I might as well replace all the needle bearing while I had it apart. Individually they aren't very expensive, but there are two different sizes involved, and there are a bunch of them, so they add up. The real problem is that they are a real PITA to get in and out. Really requires a hydraulic press with the correct fttings to properly get them in and out. Finally decided to just pay a shop to press most of them out/in. In the end, just wish I had carefully taken them apart (so as not to lose needles), and cleaned/regreased them. Also, to get all of them out you have to deal with that clever Honda design feature that requires you to remove the exhaust to get one of the bolts out. If you take the exhaust parts apart to do this, I suggest you get new gaskets prior to starting the whole project.

CDI/rough running:
While the problem reported could be the CDI (I've had one fail somewhat similarly), it also sounds like carb problems which I've had several of. There are numerous pathways in the carbs that can be easily plugged and cause sporatic problems. Midway through my trip I got some bad gas, or sucked something in through the air box and caused similar rough running issues. Started and idled fine, and ran at high RPMs fine, but everything in between was not well. Took the carbs apart, cleaned them thouroghly, and all was good again. Advice on ADVrider is to be sure to use motorcycle specific carb cleaner, and not auto carb cleaner since the auto version may destroy the gaskets and o-rings in the carbs.

A few years ago a bad float valve turned out to be the problem where the bike would run fine for a while then start coughing and quit all together. The valve and seat looked and appeared to work just fine, but replacing them solved my problems

Hope this helps,
Dale

[locorider]

Guys: While going over speed bumps I noticed that there is a "bump" noise, like if the fork tube was coming all the way out and nothing to dampen it.

I haven't checked the oil level. What might be the source, low oil level on the fork? Or, is this just something I have to live with because of the pvc spacer?

[Ladder106]

Carlos, are you talking about when the forks compress when you first contact the bump - or - when they extend afterward.

If it's compression, you might try adding 10cc more oil. If it's extension, the preload spacer is most likely too long for your bike/rider weight. First make sure there's no air pressure build up in the tubes then consider taking .25 to .5 in. off the spacer.

What do the forks do with the weight of the bike on them? Are they compressed an inch or so from fully extended?

[Andy G]

Originally Posted by ravelv

If bearings are ok, I recommend to replace sealings, especially that one in triangle-shock joint place- these are weakest ones comparing to others.
Replacing bearings in triangle was very simple with home tools without any press. I did twice for RD03 triangle in shock mount place due to rusted bearings because of cracked sealings... Yes, these are indeed weak.

I also never removed exaust when removing suspension.

How did you get them out?

Cheers, Andy

[locorider]

Sorry for my crapy english!!!

[quote=Ladder106]Carlos, are you talking about when the forks compress when you first contact the bump - or - when they extend afterward.

When they extend...

If it's compression, you might try adding 10cc more oil. If it's extension, the preload spacer is most likely too long for your bike/rider weight. First make sure there's no air pressure build up in the tubes then consider taking .25 to .5 in. off the spacer.

What do the forks do with the weight of the bike on them? Are they compressed an inch or so from fully extended?
It looks like there is an inch.
It looks awesome, but I think the 1.5" is too much.