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Old 03-07-2009, 12:24 PM   #6601
dualdogdave
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mountians
Oddometer: 140
XR Brake Calipers vs Transalp Brake Calipers

[COLOR="Red"]This brake stuff is bothering me as well.[/COLOR]


I went the opposite route for a braking solution on my CR NT project.

I rode around for the first couple of years running the stock CR 500 front brake system.

The Twin carried such velocities on the asphalt that I found myself on the edge of not having enough brakes.

Good brakes come from multiple factors. Piston size both master and caliper, number of pistons in caliper, pad composition rotor metalurgy, brake lines,
rotor diameter.








I found a NT 650 GT Hawk front brake assy Mastercylinder, adjustable lever, hydrulic hose with rotor for $ 65.00 at the City Bike Jumble.






Harry helped adapt the NT rotor to the CR front hub with some very crafty machine work.










This is a set up that will do stoppies.

With bikes this heavy there is a reason they use heavier calipers and larger diameter discs.

It's un-sprung weight anyway............




'
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Santa Cruz Coastal Mountains

"TransHawk" Dyno Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tA-y7nxL580

"TransHawk" Dyno Charts:
http://picasaweb.google.com/adv990/D...05658028913170

Transalps and other cool bikes spotted in my travels.
http://picasaweb.google.com/adv990/T...eat=directlink
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Old 03-07-2009, 03:14 PM   #6602
Shandy
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Location: Hooterville, NC aka: Hendersonville
Oddometer: 467
Quote:
Originally Posted by Santa
so how much are these shocks?
I would like to know TOO!!!
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Old 03-07-2009, 03:54 PM   #6603
WeeBee
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Location: Windsor, CA
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I called & talked with Rick at Cogent Dynamics about their Moab shock for the Transalp yesterday.

The standard Moab for stock TA's is $525 and the longer travel shock for suspension modders is $595. Optional features include a Remote Preload adjuster and a Remote Reservoir at around $225-$250 additional each. I thought I wanted the Remote Preload adjuster to make changing the preload setting easier but Rick said for only $20 they can make the standard preload adjuster much easier to operate by installing a Needle Bearing under the adjustment ring, IIRC.

Cogent backs the shock with a Lifetime warranty to the original purchaser but do require that the unit be returned to their shop and serviced for a $75 charge at regular intervals in order to maintain the warranty which most other manufacturers suggest or require as well.

Rick seems like a very honest and genuine guy and answered all my questions throughly. It sounds to me like they are making a very high quality product and take pride in doing so. They will definitely be getting my money when I replace my rear shock.
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:28 PM   #6604
Jeff@TheQuadShop
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Crestwood, Kentucky
Oddometer: 4,511
Quote:
Originally Posted by locorider
No kidding!

I'll be there tomorrow, but riding a KLR.
Thats funny, they guy that was with me was on a KLR. On wednesday we rode 200 miles in the Ocala forest.
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Old 03-08-2009, 05:51 AM   #6605
karmolis
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by karmolis
Started making a dual headlight setup.
And here's how it looks today:


I am planning to do the whole bike or at least the purple parts similar color scheme as the headlight cowl, i.e. desert camo

Added a Trailtech Vector with remote & RAM mount for my Magellan GPS:

The original speedo is busted..
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Old 03-09-2009, 05:13 AM   #6606
averagejoe
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Manassas Virginia
Oddometer: 542
Hey guys, looking for a couple of items.

I need a front wheel. I have a gold wheel with rusty spokes. The rear wheel is silver, so I want to match them up.

Right side cover. The one over the battery. White is prefered.

Stock exhaust muffler. I have a Supertrapp that is just too loud. I want to be stealth.

I am in Virginia.
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Old 03-09-2009, 05:26 AM   #6607
debaisley
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Rotterdam , NY
Oddometer: 1,423
I flushed the coolant this weekend. When i removed the drain bolt , only the fluid from the radiator drained out ( about 1.5 liters). All the fluid in the reserve tank remained. I just refilled the radiator and called it good. Is this normal ?
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Old 03-09-2009, 05:50 AM   #6608
Andy G
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Location: eastern Munich outback, Bavaria, Germany
Oddometer: 551
Quote:
Originally Posted by debaisley
Is this normal ?
It is. If you want to be super correct, open the drain bolt, let the old liquid out. Remove the reserve tank and empty it. Remount reserve tank. Flush the system with some liters of demineralized water. Fill it up with coolant liquid again.
I never did it this way. I made it like you, just drain the old liquid from the pump and refill. It was OK on the first engine for 120.000km and now on the second for 80.000km.

Cheers, Andy
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Old 03-09-2009, 06:06 AM   #6609
debaisley
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good to know , I wasnt too concerned , because the stuff I removed looked fine. I just wanted to do it because I was unsure of how well the previous owner took care of it.
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Old 03-09-2009, 06:33 AM   #6610
showkey
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Northern , IL
Oddometer: 1,723
Quote:
Originally Posted by debaisley
I flushed the coolant this weekend. ?
Did you use a no silicate coolant? HONDA water pump seals do not like silicate and you should use coolant labeled SILICATE FREE.
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Old 03-09-2009, 06:34 AM   #6611
ravelv
from Baltic side of river
 
Joined: May 2008
Oddometer: 444
Reserve tank removal is not needed- just remove cap and lay bike to side. If you have crash bars, it is easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy G
It is. If you want to be super correct, open the drain bolt, let the old liquid out. Remove the reserve tank and empty it. Remount reserve tank. Flush the system with some liters of demineralized water. Fill it up with coolant liquid again.
I never did it this way. I made it like you, just drain the old liquid from the pump and refill. It was OK on the first engine for 120.000km and now on the second for 80.000km.

Cheers, Andy

ravelv screwed with this post 03-09-2009 at 03:36 PM
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Old 03-09-2009, 06:44 AM   #6612
Lear60man
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Location: So Cali
Oddometer: 715
When I worked on my cooland system I removed the radiator and put the hose inside the res tank, let it run till clear. put everythin gback together andd filled with some purple stuff. make sense? pui sorry.
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Old 03-09-2009, 09:20 AM   #6613
WeeBee
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Location: Windsor, CA
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Nice TA for sale in San Diego, CA

Looks nice, clean, and unmolested - I paid $3,000 for mine with 9k more in miles and some nice farkles but I'd say $3900 is a fair price for the condition this one's in with only 15k on the clock.

I'm not interested in it but since it did not have the fuel filler vent (CA Emissions) I asked the current owner if he knew the ownership history and he stated that it was the original owner before him and that the bike was sold originally in Iowa, hence no filler vent.

Here's the eBay link - http://tinyurl.com/1989-Transalp-San-Diego-CA
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Old 03-09-2009, 04:01 PM   #6614
Mario Shi
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Location: Santa Barbara, California
Oddometer: 518
RD07 Swingarm

So, I just acquired an RD07 swingarm for my TA. A couple of questions:

Does anyone have an RD07 rear wheel or rear hub laying around that they would like to sell?


Do any USA models share the same rear axle as the RD07?

Thanks. Mario
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Old 03-09-2009, 04:16 PM   #6615
ravelv
from Baltic side of river
 
Joined: May 2008
Oddometer: 444
speedo gears

Can somebody, please, count speedo gears ratio in format like 15wheelturns:12cableturns? I guess, US and EU bikes has same unit, but still would be interesting both... I don't have access to my bike know, but that SuMo thing bugs me. :) And I want to plan easyest way to use 17wheels.
Also would be interesting to know same data from NX650 1990 and FMX650... I had suspicions that FMX unit might fit, I found some info in German forums proving this:

"Da ich gerade meine Dominator umrüste, stand ich auch vor dem Problem der Tachoangleichung. Mein Honda-Händler hat mir versichert, dass die unterschiedlichen Radgrößen immer in der Schnecke angeglichen werden. Also habe ich mir eine FMX-Schnecke besorgt. Die Domi-Achse hat zwar einen kleineren Durchmesser, die Schnecke sitzt aber im eingebauten Zustand sehr gut. Gefahren bin ich noch nicht, da es mit der hinteren Felge noch Schwierigkeiten gibt. Falls es hinhaut, lasse ich es euch natürlich wissen."
And same guy later writes:
"Also die FMX-Tachoschnecke funzt in einer 90`Domi...!"

Would be nice if somebody could translate this properly (Andy_G? :) ), some words I don't understand...

So, if NX650 has same ratio as TA, then this problem is solved (I don't want aftermarket electronic speedo).

As for wheels, cheapest way is to use regular wheels from some streetbikes... For rear the one from Suzuki RF600 seems nice as at least brake rotor is 240mm- same as on TA.
I think ones like in attached picture should look nice on TA as well. These are, I think, from Suzuki GS500.
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