Show us your TransAlp modifications!

[locorider]

Ray:

Question:

Is the TA650 engine the same as the NT? Is there any difference?

Originally Posted by Ladder106

Great Job, Dan

I printed this out to save for the future. I think most of you work will apply to the US riders who may wish to transplant a NT650 Hawk engine into our TAs.

[Ladder106]

I think they MAY be the same but not positive. I'm planning to discuss this with Santa when he gets back home.

[trophydave]

Does anyone know if the chrome trim on the Transalp exhaust can be removed and if it is available?.One of mine is rotted through and the other is not far behind.I feel a possible bodge coming on

[ravelv]

NT engine is a bit more similar to XRV engine regards mount points in frame. For example, XRV and NT engines have mounting points in rear top which TA don't have. But this can be left unused in TA frame... (ok, in my country this means that you cannot change engines- mount points in frame must be same, if not, this is not allowed. Also no selfmade brackets.)

Originally Posted by Ladder106

I think they MAY be the same but not positive. I'm planning to discuss this with Santa when he gets back home.

[mas335]

Originally Posted by trophydave

Does anyone know if the chrome trim on the Transalp exhaust can be removed and if it is available?.One of mine is rotted through and the other is not far behind.I feel a possible bodge coming on

No, Both 89 and 90 are spot welded in place.

[gothamAlp]

query bump -- anyone?

Originally Posted by gothamAlp

i remember seeing a very cool paint job on a TA in oregon that was in the fleamarket a while back but the thread is no longer available.

guy had a dual headlight set-up and a white/blue/yellow paint job that was killer... anyone have a pic of that thing?

[icekube1]

Originally Posted by gothamAlp

query bump -- anyone?

Yes, I think I have one- if you are talking about the one with the big bug eyes.

Unfortunately it is on our PC which is dead just at the moment. Wife has got it in for fixing. I will look and post it up if it's there, once computer returned... may be a few days tho'.

[selah]

Hoping someone might be able to help out with this.

Situation:

After stopping for coffee 100 miles into a 4 day tour I turn the key and get no response from the starter. No lights not any thing at all. I check connections, fuses, and battery. Multitester shows battery at 12.6 volts with the key off. With the key on it goes to zero. Again no blown fuses. Spend another couple of hours going over all electical connections. Put everything back together and push start the bike. All electrics functional, though not the starter. Start the 100 mile ride back home. Stop the bike on the pass and try the electric starter again. No luck. Push start it again and finish the ride home.

The instructions in the Haynes manual shows a different starter relay than what is on my 88 bike. So not quite sure how to proceed. I am confused why the battery shows a charge with the key off and goes to zero whith the key on - especially with no blow fuses.

Any ideas? Thanks

[Ladder106]

Remove the side panel to access the starter relay/selenoid.

With the key ON....use a large metal object (screwdriver, jumper cable etc) to jump between the two large terminals. BEWARE OF SPARKS and don't hold the connection too long cause it will get hot. If the starter works, check wiring to the remainder of the relay. If wiring is OK, clean or replace the relay.

Most of these can be carefully taken apart and you'll likely find burnt contacts that can be cleaned up.

You're not blowing fuses because there's really no direct short. It's just the tired relay not able to make the connection between the starter and the battery.

If the starter still doesn't work, the starter motor itself is at fault.

[selah]

Originally Posted by Ladder106

Remove the side panel to access the starter relay/selenoid.



You're not blowing fuses because there's really no direct short. It's just the tired relay not able to make the connection between the starter and the battery.

If the starter still doesn't work, the starter motor itself is at fault.

Thanks Ladder.

Well, after jumping between the terminals with the screw driver I get some clicking from the relay but no action form the starter. Also from the starter button on the bars. What is the lowest voltage that the battery will turn the starter? - Just to make sure that it is not the battery before messing with the starter motor. I have it on the charger now, though I would have thought the 100 mile ride would have topped off the battery.

[Ladder106]

Dunno what the lowest voltage/amperage is to drive the starter motor but if your relay is clicking when you press the starter button is sounds more like the battery itself is suspect.

The ride should have recharged things a bit. Whether the battery will hold this charge is different issue.

You might try jumping from another battery (start is with the normal button). If this works, then the battery may be bad or it may not be getting recharged by the bike due to a regulator/rectifier problem.

With the bike running you should rear a voltage greater than 12 from the batter. Look back at some thread to determing the "right" charge voltage for the TA but I think it's something like 14.5 with the bike running.

It's time for the electrical engineers of the thread to get involved.

[Boon Booni]

Originally Posted by selah

Thanks Ladder.

Well, after jumping between the terminals with the screw driver I get some clicking from the relay but no action form the starter. Also from the starter button on the bars. What is the lowest voltage that the battery will turn the starter? - Just to make sure that it is not the battery before messing with the starter motor. I have it on the charger now, though I would have thought the 100 mile ride would have topped off the battery.

I would think that if you are jumping to lugs of the relay together, you are bypassing the relay so it shouldn't be clicking.

Could try putting a volt meter on the battery when you do this. If you're getting a voltage drop then you know something is happening, but if you hear the relay click or bridge the lugs on the relay and the battery voltage stays around 11-12 volts then you've got something else going on.

If you push the starter button, or bridge the relay and your voltage drops down to 8 or less volts you probably have a battery issue.

[thetourist]

Mine has done this a couple of times on long trips. The water level was low both times. Is the water level in the battery OK? Voltage = 14.5 volts.

Next check battery terminals for corrosion and tightness. After that, pull the main fuse (by the solonoid) and check for corrosion or burning of the bayonets. I had a fuse fail once from corrosion.

A fresh battery almost always solves my electrical problems. Internal battery plates can rattle loose. My TA does a lot of rugged roads and the batteries seem to not last a long time...12-24 months usually. I routinely change the battery before long trips to eliminate worrying. (Long trips are several weeks.)

[gothamAlp]

bingo! thx, kube -- please PM when you post it.

Originally Posted by icekube1

Yes, I think I have one- if you are talking about the one with the big bug eyes.

Unfortunately it is on our PC which is dead just at the moment. Wife has got it in for fixing. I will look and post it up if it's there, once computer returned... may be a few days tho'.

[NorCalTA]

Here ya go, Gotham - post #4778 in this same thread

Originally Posted by jcadcars

Very fun bike. Bought it beginning of summer and have almost 3k added to odo. Picture is a few days after I brought her home. New tire picture. Great bike.





Hood canal camping




Day my son and I picked it up...




Stocking up...jiffy pop is good.