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Old 07-03-2011, 09:26 AM   #11671
trex300
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CDI related question for the board

Quote:
Originally Posted by mas335 View Post
First, spray a "little" WD-40 in the terminal to help the O ring seals slide easier. Then gently pry each tab on both sides of the snap connector while wiggling the connector outward. Don't pull on the wires. That should do it.

Here is what you see after you install the new holder correctly.
I've just replaced both CDIs on my TA and now the tach isn't working properly when idling. The needle is jumping erratically and reading higher than it should, blip the throttle and it'll read the higher rpm. Seems to read fine when riding highway speeds.

The bike runs the way it should, went 400 kms yesterday no problem.

The only thing I can think of is that I put too much dielectric in the connectors on install.

Any thoughts???,
Rick
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Old 07-03-2011, 09:52 AM   #11672
Ladder106
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Try swapping the boxes. If the problem persists at least you know it's not in the box. Likely in the wiring to the tach or in the tach itself.

On any old TA, it's a good idea to pull apart and clean all the electrical connections. Pay particular attention to the 3 wires that come up from the stator. These connections must be kept clean and corrosion free to prevent stator problems and melted connectors.
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Old 07-03-2011, 11:59 AM   #11673
mas335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trex300 View Post
I've just replaced both CDIs on my TA and now the tach isn't working properly when idling. The needle is jumping erratically and reading higher than it should, blip the throttle and it'll read the higher rpm. Seems to read fine when riding highway speeds.

The bike runs the way it should, went 400 kms yesterday no problem.

The only thing I can think of is that I put too much dielectric in the connectors on install.

Any thoughts???,
Rick
Was the tach working correctly before you changed CDI's? Not so sure I would have used the Dielectric on those contacts.

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Old 07-03-2011, 01:23 PM   #11674
trex300
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Tach was working properly beforehand.

I'll try cleaning the di-electric off the contacts today to see if that's all it is.
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Old 07-03-2011, 01:39 PM   #11675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trex300 View Post
Tach was working properly beforehand.

I'll try cleaning the di-electric off the contacts today to see if that's all it is.
Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity.
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Old 07-03-2011, 03:06 PM   #11676
cnf
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Relay installed…

Trip starts in 2 days…

I'm both scared and excited...
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Old 07-03-2011, 03:27 PM   #11677
locorider
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Happy Birthday! Enjoy the ride!



Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBaloo22 View Post


Also wife made me a "Blue Ridge Parkway" cake. She didn't have time to make my TA so a paper HD had to do but I love it.

And here "I" am even though I didn't think I was quite this fat. Even have my helmet with visor.
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Old 07-05-2011, 03:50 PM   #11678
radguzzi
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Lowering blocks for the TA....?

Has anyone here tried these lowering blocks on their Transalp...?

http://www.vh-motorradtechnik.de/en/Rear-Lowering-Kits/Honda/XL-600-V-Transalp



Being a bit short of leg and not really going to ride this rig "Off-Road" I would like to lower it just a tad...

I was surprised to find this and not lowering Links but hey, lowering is lowering.

Not to take from the German economy but I would also like to find a US dealer also...


Thanks for any input.

Rob
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Old 07-05-2011, 04:19 PM   #11679
paddlerspock
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shop recommendations

Hi all,


For the past 1000 miles or so I have had a constant high pitched tick coming from the junction at the bottom of the V, so to speak, where the cylinders meet the crankcase. I have adjusted the valves to the 0.006 and 0.008 specs four days ago, so they are ruled out. I used a screwdriver to pinpoint the sound and I am reasonably confident. I also brought the bike to a bike shop (Randys Cycle in Lawrenceburg, TN, just off the TAT) and had an experienced mechanic confirm my suspicions.

If anyone has any imput I am all ears.....Thanks again for all the knowledge I have gained from this thread....



I am currently riding the TAT trail and I am currently in West Tennessee....I am looking for some recommendations on motorcycle shops to replace the timing chain (if that is the problem I am having) on my 89 Transalp.

I would prefer if the shops were out west (CO, NV, etc) so I could have a week or so notice for the shop to get parts in....

I would appreciate any help, and if anyone has suggestions please let me know.
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Old 07-05-2011, 04:47 PM   #11680
mas335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radguzzi View Post
Has anyone here tried these lowering blocks on their Transalp...?

http://www.vh-motorradtechnik.de/en/Rear-Lowering-Kits/Honda/XL-600-V-Transalp



Being a bit short of leg and not really going to ride this rig "Off-Road" I would like to lower it just a tad...

I was surprised to find this and not lowering Links but hey, lowering is lowering.

Not to take from the German economy but I would also like to find a US dealer also...


Thanks for any input.

Rob
Not knowing your bike the shock preload may be jacked up a lot, back it down and the bike may drop enough for you.
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Old 07-05-2011, 05:43 PM   #11681
Ladder106
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Paddlerspock,

How many miles on your TA? Regular maintenance or neglect? Is the sound regular and increases with revs or on-and-off and doesn't match revs?

I've heard that the oil pump drive chain can wear and start smacking thingd if it gets too slack. It's located up behind the clutch so this could produce a sound coming from between the cylinders.

Any aluminum bits in the oil?

Both plugs and plug wires torqued and snug? (It may be obvious but many people don't know the TA has 4 plugs).

Have you tried looking around the plugs at night. Sometimes a stray spark from a worn plug lead will make a "snap" or "tick" sound. You won't see it during the day but during a nice dark night with no lights around it's pretty obvious.

I've not heard of worn cam chains being a particular problem on the TA....that's why I'm trying on other causes......anyone else have ideas? Mark?
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Old 07-05-2011, 06:59 PM   #11682
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Thanks for the reply....
My bike has 31,000 miles and has had regular maintenance done by the owners of the bike.you may know the bike...it is the blue transalp Michelangelo built up before I bought it from him in May. He said that he had no problems with the bike. When I bought the bike from him, I didn't hear the tick (or maybe just didn't want to hear it, so I blocked it out, haha), but I rode the bike home from Salt Lake City to South Carolina and started hearing the tick when I got back home.



The last time I changed the oil, I did not see any bits in the oil....the spark plugs and wires are all correct, I replaced all 4 plugs before I left on the TAT and they are all as they should be. I also see no stray sparks at night on the bike.

The high pitched tick I speak of is constant with the revs of the engine. For instance, if it is at idle the tick is slow and steadly increases along with rpms of the engine when reved. You have to listen for the sound....it is not prominent, but it is there. The mechanic heard it and asked if the valves were correct, I just checked them four days ago and made extra sure that they were all spaced correctly. The tick was there before I checked the valves and it sounds the same after I checked them. Also, the noise is somewhat louder on the right side of the bike then the left....

Again, any input is appreciated....I haven't noticed any performance decreases at all (except for a blown CDI, which I replaced) since I bought the bike.

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Old 07-05-2011, 08:43 PM   #11683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paddlerspock View Post
Thanks for the reply....

Again, any input is appreciated....I haven't noticed any performance decreases at all (except for a blown CDI, which I replaced) since I bought the bike.

I would get a few more opinions from others before you tear into the cam chain:

1. the cam chains are NOT known to fail or wear at low mileage.

2. its not going to cheap

3. TA do have a fair amount of normal engine noise

Does the noise change if you pull in the clutch?
Try some 20w-50 oil see if it changes.
With all the mods this bike has had I would be looking other places.....vacume leaks, loose motor mounts, missing motor mount bolts, cracked exhaust pipes, missing exhaust or used exhaust header gaskets, exhaust collector leaks, air box and air intake pipes.
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:11 AM   #11684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radguzzi View Post


Not to take from the German economy but I would also like to find a US dealer also...

Rob
I think you can shortened the original one.
For lowering the bike 40mm you must cut 13mm.
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:48 AM   #11685
mas335
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Paddler, You have just been given some great ideas by two of the brightest guys on this page and their suggestions are worth looking into.

If you brought the bike to my shop the first thing I would check is the engines right side case cover gasket and determine if anyone has ever been inside. IF the gasket has been replaced and as a last resort I would be looking inside to see if I could detect something wrong.

A replaced gasket is fairly recognizable, it never fits as good as the original and sticks out a little from the case joint.

One of the most common problems I find with bikes that have has been "worked on" is improperly torqued bolts.

The Cadence (clicks per minute) of the ticking may be a clue as to the source, timing chains, oil pumps and anything else gear driven doesn't necessarily travel at the same speed as the engine RPM's.
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