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Old 01-11-2012, 03:37 AM   #12736
quint7
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Finger Lakes (Rochester) NY
Oddometer: 465
Quote:
Originally Posted by ravelv View Post
With the TA's poor stock headlight one can ride with high beam on during daylight, no problems for others. But some are riding with modern bikes also like that and this is very annoying because light beam is very strong- I got "blinded" few times myself as well.
In my country this is even not allowed actually (to ride with high beam when visibility is good, that is, during daytime).
I was always taught "the high beam is easier to see during the daytime and if the high beam burns out you still have a legal beam to use at night to get home". But I understand each country has it's own rules.
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Old 01-11-2012, 04:21 AM   #12737
ravelv
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There is logic in what you wrote, as well as each country has it's own rules. But still- light beam's path is same regardless daytime and rules in particular country, just during daytime eyes are less sensitive to sudden strong light beam.
I was also surprised when first time was "hit" blind during daytime with upcoming bike's light. Before that I also thought that no matter what lights you use during daytime. But this applies only to most old bikes/cars- sometimes when I forget during night time switch in time to low beam on my TA, rarely someone blinks asking to do so (my headlights are always adjusted properly).

Here locally also many bikers drives with high beam on during daytime thinking they are better visible. But result is- many other drivers are very angry about this- bike riders inclusive.

But I'm just keep spare headlight bulb with me. :)


Quote:
Originally Posted by quint7 View Post
I was always taught "the high beam is easier to see during the daytime and if the high beam burns out you still have a legal beam to use at night to get home". But I understand each country has it's own rules.
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:14 PM   #12738
csustewy
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: back in Denver
Oddometer: 541
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme View Post
Sandplow on here every once and while has a stock TA handle bar send him a PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ric678 View Post
I have a complete set of front forks trees and bars, If you're not in a big hurry I'll check them when I get home, make sure they are straight.

Thanks for the help, guys. PMs on their way...
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:02 PM   #12739
ferretface
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Wellington, NZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mas335 View Post
The 91 Euro switch plugged right into the US harness but I can't know if it will do the same for 87/88 Canadian bikes. You will have one loose connector which would have plugged into the harness for the parking light but just tape it off and ignore it.

You should be able to determine if the US and Canadian Transalps use the same turn signal switch and if so then I don't see why the 91 would not work just as well.

The switch did NOT cut off all the lights, just the headlamp which can be done with a separate switch. Sorry but the cops will still be able to follow your tail lights.
Thanks for the reply, I didn't even think about the rear light and expected the euro switch to control that as well. It's not a big deal really. I want to put some serious miles on the bike this year and thought it would be handy to be able to power off the lights if pulling off the road for camping etc (to make me less conspicuous)
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Old 01-11-2012, 07:06 PM   #12740
thetourist
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Location: Moscow, Idaho
Oddometer: 3,882
-LUGGAGE!! Searching forums hasn't been particularly helpful in this case because it seems some products are no longer available. Happy Trails has a few options using the SU side rack. Is there a current alternative I am not aware of? I like the looks of this rack and the various cases they offer with it, but I'd like to shop around. The aluminum cases are probably best but I am not crazy about spending that kind of money![/QUOTE]




Cheap luggage and skid plate. $50 total.

If your plastic is already bogus what do you need crash bars for. This rig has been down a lot and still runs fine. The plastic protects the rads faily well.

Brush guards protect my levers. One aluminum guard is ground 1/3 way thru from a 70 mph high side.

The skid plate is 1/4 inch because I had it around. I cut it so it extends back and out far enough to protect the exhaust all the way to where it turns up. It is heavier than necessary, but it makes a satisfying ring when struck by big rocks.

Samsonite from Good Will. $1.50 each. Very tuff and light. Also keeps the bike narrow. Nice rounded edges. It would be perfect if it were waterproof, which it is not.

Top Box $20. Waterproof.
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:08 AM   #12741
Big Chris
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I took the bars off my 2003 650 TA. But I'm in Australia, so you'd have to really really want them.

Actually, I have loads of front end parts, fairng (dark blue), screen, headlight, handguards, if anybody else wants them

Quote:
Originally Posted by csustewy View Post
Anybody happen to have some used TA handlebars they're looking to get rid of?

I'm not looking for anything too nice, but unbent. And just my luck, I happened to have missed mas335's flea market extravaganza by mere days...


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Old 01-12-2012, 06:25 AM   #12742
Big Chris
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8 inch handlebar raiser on a 650 TA for 6'5" rider

I posted photos about this on the Australia Transalps forum a few months ago (I live in Australia), and have since been told to post it here too.
About halfway down the page in the link below are a few posts about how I junked the stock fairing and handlebars and raised the bars by approx 200mm, or 8 inches in old fashioned British measurements.
The set up has been on for about 8 months, it works really well, though the bike is very ugly, which is why I'm fitting a Vapor computer to tidy it up


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...84629&page=141

Since then I have raised the seat by about 100mm as well, much better riding position for a tall guy. When I figure out which photo hosting site to use, I'll post pics of that
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:34 AM   #12743
csustewy
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Location: back in Denver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Chris View Post
I took the bars off my 2003 650 TA. But I'm in Australia, so you'd have to really really want them.

Actually, I have loads of front end parts, fairng (dark blue), screen, headlight, handguards, if anybody else wants them
Ha! I don't want 'em that bad...I imagine I could find a nice, shiny, new set for that shipping cost. But hope you connect with someone else looking for some front end pieces...



If anyone else has old, unbent handlebars, please just PM me. I will not have access to internet until mid-February (see map below of where I am living now to understand why), and I can respond to your PM then. Also, this silly part request won't clutter this thread that way.


View Larger Map


Internet hasn't made it to the Upper Suriname River yet. But mid February I will be back stateside for a few weeks...my chance to pick up some parts and maintenance items...
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:19 AM   #12744
tgeliot
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Location: Denver, CO
Oddometer: 1,344
TA for sale on eBay

Clearwater, FL

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...SS%3AUS%3A1123
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Old 01-14-2012, 12:19 PM   #12745
mas335
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I am completely tearing down one of the two Transalp engines that I have had sitting here in the shop. I discovered this, a perfect example of improper valve clearance, Intake valves have been hitting the piston.

This is one reason I immediately adjust the valves on any bike I buy before riding it.
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Old 01-14-2012, 02:35 PM   #12746
DaveM
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Location: Van Nuys Ca.
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Sorry I dont want start any kind of major argument but a valve adjustment would not cause that unless someone screwed the adjusters down so that the valves were hanging open. At that point it would not even start.

More than likely camshaft timing was off at some point. How do the camchain guides look?

Unless it has non stock cams?
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Old 01-14-2012, 03:36 PM   #12747
mas335
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100% stock cams, engine had 52K miles. How would you suggest the cam timing could get off?
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:32 PM   #12748
DaveM
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Somebody working on it would be my first guess

Do both pistons show marks or only one?

Maybe someone had a head off and when they reinstalled the cam the timing marks for the wrong cylinder were used then realized their mistake re-timed the cam and figured if it started it was fine.


Remember assuming that the cam is timed right the only time the valves and pistons are close is from about 15 deg. before TDC to 15 deg. after during the overlap phase. (Ex. closing and IN. opening)
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:59 AM   #12749
mas335
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Dave, The marks are only on one piston. You made me think more about this and I want to check something while the heads are off, hopefully I will have a better understanding of how this actually happened.

I want to try and set the valves at TDC and inspect the valve lift from the cylinder side, something you never get to see when they are assembled.

One of the reasons I purchased this dead engine was to disassemble it to get a better understanding of what is going on inside there and to understand what went wrong. It's way beyond repairing the engine so I don't have to worry about any errors except in my assessment of what actually happened.

While we are talking about this engine, any tricks for pulling the flywheel without the proper tool? I want to separate the cases and pull the crankshaft.
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:49 AM   #12750
DaveM
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I don't know of any easy way to get the flywheel off without the tool that wont risk damaging anything.


On cam timing events you can find some nice You-Tube videos that should give you a good idea of what and when things are happening.
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