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Old 01-17-2012, 01:05 PM   #12766
mas335
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Piedmont region NC
Oddometer: 1,886
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme View Post
Thanks for the relay and jetting replys. How about front sprocket output shaft splines? My Dads bike has 23 thousand on it. The output shaft splines are half gone! Scary really. The shaft was not rusty or dry. Previous owner must run the chain too tight. Any fixes? I know pull the motor split the case way over my head and pricey.
Cory, I saw your question about the output shaft on my flea market listing, I don't want to separate the gear cluster assembly.

You are correct, it would be a huge job to replace just the output shaft and unless you did it yourself it would simply be cost prohibative. It took many hours just to get to this point of a disassembly.
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Old 01-17-2012, 01:16 PM   #12767
Ladder106
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Some things to think about

Any chance of a photo of the splines? Yes it's a function of running too little slack in the drive chain. This is a common mistake made by street bike riders (and many shops) when servicing a DS bike.

Is there any play in the transmission output shaft? A bit of in-and-out (which would be left and right play as viewed from sitting on the bike) is OK but any axial - Up/Down, Forward/Backward play is BAD.

Conventional wisdom here on the thread is that OEM CS sprockets should be used since we don't really know the hardness (Rockwell #) of the aftermarket sprockets.

This will be particularly important to you now with worn splines. The point is to NOT have the sprocket harder than the shaft so any wear is absorbed by the sprocket which is easy to replace.

The thinking is that Honda took this into consideration whereas the aftermarket sprocket guys may not have and may only be interested in providing a long wearing sprocket.

If the bearing is OK, we can look for some semi-temporary solutions. If it were my bike, I think I'd try to find some thin metal strips that could be cut and inserted into the gap crated by the worn splines to take the "slack out of the system.....then mount the new CS sprocket with red locktite. This means that you'll need a small puller to remove it but that's not too hard to do.

Some guys have actually welded the CS sprocket to the splines...this seems a radical "last-ditch" effort to me but will certainly work. Obviously sprocket replacement becomes a whole new problem as does overheating and wrecking the oil seal behind the sprocket.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:15 PM   #12768
Hotmamaandme
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Mark and Ray thanks. I take your input as input from those that have well rounded knowledge.
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:12 AM   #12769
mas335
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I spent all yesterday changing the CDI modules, checking the kill switch, the ground connections and fuses with no luck, today this page fired right up, go figure?
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mas335 screwed with this post 01-19-2012 at 04:30 AM
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:19 AM   #12770
ric678
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Yea that web blackout really sucked.... I didn't have anything to read while I was supposed to be working
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:40 AM   #12771
2bold2getold
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Valves hitting Head

Hi, I'm new here, so I'll learn as I go. I had a VW shop back in the '80's, so I saw lots of valve related problems. I agree, It's unlikely valves will hit a head if the timing is correct. I saw this more often when a rod bearing was bad and the extra throw allowed the piston to reach the head and valves. Here's a good animation of valve train action. http://www.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:07 AM   #12772
2bold2getold
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New inmate intro and TA pics

Guess I should at least show my ride. Iv'e ridden enduros and trials in the '70's, CO,NM, Mexico, The Divide Ride(south to north) and about the middle third of the TAT. Had a lot of bikes, mostly dirt, and been a mechanic for 50 plus years. Have a tig welder, ran heavy equipment in Antarctica, and friends who do machine work. I saw an '89 TA dressed like the '89 PD bikes and I bought It, so here I am. Thanks in advance to all of you for the info Iv'e gotten here already.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:16 AM   #12773
Ladder106
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Welcome !

Happy to see someone got that bike who appreciates it and has the skills to keep it.

The only thing I'd add would be some type of pannier rack to help protect those beautiful AT rear panels....to say nothing of the paint.
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Old 01-19-2012, 11:23 AM   #12774
Dekatria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Guess I should at least show my ride. Iv'e ridden enduros and trials in the '70's, CO,NM, Mexico, The Divide Ride(south to north) and about the middle third of the TAT. Had a lot of bikes, mostly dirt, and been a mechanic for 50 plus years. Have a tig welder, ran heavy equipment in Antarctica, and friends who do machine work. I saw an '89 TA dressed like the '89 PD bikes and I bought It, so here I am. Thanks in advance to all of you for the info Iv'e gotten here already.
That is one nice looking Alp right there
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:13 PM   #12775
potski
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More input regarding input shaft

Hi All.

Regarding the output shaft spines… some years back now when I bought my 88 Alp the first thing I checked was the output shaft. Fortunately it was Ok ish. There was a little play which would have only gotten worse over time, so I had a bit of a think and super glued it in place. The superglue only fills in the slight gap, it’s not in any way meant to hold the sprocket on. I must admit I didn’t think it would work, but it did. I’ve popped the gear lever and cover off a few times to check it hadn’t come free, but it hadn’t budged. Changing the sprocket did require a puller to extract it though and then I popped the new sprocket on with superglue again. Doubt it would work on a badly worn shaft though. On my 1999 bike which has very few kilometres on it, there was no play I could see at all, but I’ve done the same with that bike as a preventative measure anyway. I think that once there is a little play it gets worse and worse and trashes itself because of the constant back and forth motion…stop it before it starts is my way of thinking…and of course run with a slack chain

Cheers
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:26 PM   #12776
showkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potski View Post
Hi All.

Regarding the output shaft spines…
Just to review................we still need pictures of the recent posters problem splines...........remembering the sprocket in normal condition is floating on the splines and is very very loose.........and one could think this a wear problem if not aware of the floating design.
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:36 PM   #12777
mas335
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:44 PM   #12778
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Welcome !

Happy to see someone got that bike who appreciates it and has the skills to keep it.

The only thing I'd add would be some type of pannier rack to help protect those beautiful AT rear panels....to say nothing of the paint.
Think I'll have to fab some adapters to fit the GIVI racks off of my FZ1. I haven't seen anything on the market that looks like it will clear the RD04 side panels. I was hoping someone knows something about this bike. I haven't been able to reach the previous owner who did the work and knows the history.
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:00 PM   #12779
mas335
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He used to hangout here some and I am sure he can be found somewhere on this site, I know what he paid for the paint work, worth every penny, great looking bike.
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:22 PM   #12780
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mas335 View Post
He used to hangout here some and I am sure he can be found somewhere on this site, I know what he paid for the paint work, worth every penny, great looking bike.
Thanks, maybe he or someone who knows him will be able to get us together. I can't seem to figure it out. The guy I got it from said he was told it had about 20,000 miles on it, pulled the carbs and the valves look new. It has mostly RD04 AT plastic,I think, But RD07 clocks(no trip meter), mystery.
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