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Old 03-18-2012, 07:59 PM   #13006
Boon Booni
Red Clay Halo
 
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Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Richmond, Va
Oddometer: 13,267
Quote:
Originally Posted by quint7 View Post
HAH! Well there's that............
How much for that restored TA Mark? LOL

And the heads didn't come off, 2 of the 'x''s stripped out some. All 4 can be reused.
It's really not hard to center the butterflies in the bores. Just close them and hold them up to a light. If you can see light around the butterfly, open and close it a few times and the butterfly will center itself. At one point it'll be a near perfect fit, then tighten the screws and you're good.

I think it's a good idea to removed the butterflies because you get access to the felt washers on the butterfly shaft, and you can verify that they are in good shape. Be careful with them as they are delicate!

If you can find a hardware store that sells stainless metric, you can pick up countersunk screws that will work just fine. Just make sure to blue loctite those suckers in. My trick is to center the butterfly, snug up the screws, then remove them one at a time add blue loctite and sug back up while the others holds the butterfly.
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:50 AM   #13007
quint7
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Finger Lakes (Rochester) NY
Oddometer: 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boon Booni View Post
It's really not hard to center the butterflies in the bores. Just close them and hold them up to a light. If you can see light around the butterfly, open and close it a few times and the butterfly will center itself. At one point it'll be a near perfect fit, then tighten the screws and you're good.

I think it's a good idea to removed the butterflies because you get access to the felt washers on the butterfly shaft, and you can verify that they are in good shape. Be careful with them as they are delicate!

If you can find a hardware store that sells stainless metric, you can pick up countersunk screws that will work just fine. Just make sure to blue loctite those suckers in. My trick is to center the butterfly, snug up the screws, then remove them one at a time add blue loctite and sug back up while the others holds the butterfly.

Good info. I didn't have felt washers anywhere, hard plastic ones though and I didn't want them soaking in carb cleaner as I've seen what can happen to some plastics when they are exposed to carb cleaners. Live, learn, hopefully remember!
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:43 AM   #13008
Michelangelo
2 wheel rider...anytime..
 
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Joined: May 2005
Location: Rocky Mountain West
Oddometer: 1,655
Gents/gals:

I just posted some XR600R forks and front wheel and other parts in flea market!
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774075



Utah

Cartridge fork from 1996 Honda XR600R: (includes gaiters, triple clamps and axle/spacers) $100



Front wheel in great shape with disc (tire not included): $75



Front brake caliper, master cylinder and hose: $50

OE Transalp front fender (pro painted, never mounted. It's the blue one!): $50



OEM header: $50



price do not include shipping. I will take Paypal, but you'll need to include 3% to the total price. Otherwise I'll do a money order or even better you can pick them up! PM is best.
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:17 PM   #13009
sander.and.marianne
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Joined: Nov 2011
Oddometer: 2
Our bikes:



Modifications (more on less on both bikes):

- Acerbis Supermoto Evo Front Fender
- Acerbis Handguards (Rally Pro & Multiplo E)
- Rox Handlebar Risers / Africa Queens Risers
- Renthal Dakar High / CR High
- African Queens foldable mirrors
- Venhill Steelbraided brakelines
- SW Motech Bashplate
- PivotPegz MK2
- Crashbars (came with the bikes)
- Touratech foldable gear lever
- Touratech brake lever extension
- HyperPro progressive springs
- Laser ProDuro custom fitted exhaust
- Custom built pannier racks (for SW Motech Trax panniers)

That's about it...

Still considering new seats, larger tank and adjustable levers.
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:01 PM   #13010
quint7
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Finger Lakes (Rochester) NY
Oddometer: 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by sander.and.marianne View Post
Our bikes:



Modifications (more on less on both bikes):

- Acerbis Supermoto Evo Front Fender
- Acerbis Handguards (Rally Pro & Multiplo E)
- Rox Handlebar Risers / Africa Queens Risers
- Renthal Dakar High / CR High
- African Queens foldable mirrors
- Venhill Steelbraided brakelines
- SW Motech Bashplate
- PivotPegz MK2
- Crashbars (came with the bikes)
- Touratech foldable gear lever
- Touratech brake lever extension
- HyperPro progressive springs
- Laser ProDuro custom fitted exhaust
- Custom built pannier racks (for SW Motech Trax panniers)

That's about it...

Still considering new seats, larger tank and adjustable levers.
I'd love to see/read about mounting the fender and if you notice it having an effect on handling at higher (freeway) speeds.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:16 AM   #13011
sander.and.marianne
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Joined: Nov 2011
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For mounting the front fender we used the African Queens adapter plate (see the link below).
The plate is nothing more than a square aluminium bracket and a handlebar fixing thingy (don't know what it is called).
Turns out for this particular fender the spacers on the front side are too long, so we will have to remount the fenders.
Especially on Mariannes bike we have an issue with the fender in combination with the crashbars mounted.
But I guess we figure out a way to mount it properly

https://ssl.kundenserver.de/s7427041...3D28AK011%3D29

As far as highway speeds is concerned; I don't really like taking the bike on the highway. Doing 80 kph at 4000 rpm in 5th gear it feels best. Feels like missing a gear when going faster. However there is a little wobble, going let's say 120 kph. But I can't compare it with original handling as we bought the bikes, modified them and took them for a spin this weekend for the first time. Probably any interference can be reduced by fixing a metal strut on the inside of the fender.
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:37 AM   #13012
quint7
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Finger Lakes (Rochester) NY
Oddometer: 482
Cool, thanks. The KLR I have out west has a metal brace mounted to the front fender to keep it from being flappy in the wind. There are a few designs of them out there on KLR sites. I've had my Alp up around 100mph a few times on highways. That was with a tall windshield and half worn Avon Distanzas and I never had anything more than a wiggle that I blamed on the tires. That KLR....... get above 75mph and take your feet off of the pegs to stretch your legs and it instantly wobbles all over the place. LOL
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:31 AM   #13013
mas335
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Piedmont region NC
Oddometer: 1,895
My extensive TA parts list that was in the flea market has disappeared for uncertain reasons. I will repost it and everything that was on the list is still available.


Send me a PM if you have questions. Thanks,
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:34 AM   #13014
thebigman
bout a dollar 3.98
 
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Texas Gulf Coast
Oddometer: 3,392
Where can I buy a rear sprocket other than a 47 , would like a 48 or 49 if available ,

also ,

what options for the smaller front ,
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:52 PM   #13015
Blackbert
Factory Rambler
 
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Belgium, wrong side of the river
Oddometer: 1,056
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealbigman View Post
Where can I buy a rear sprocket other than a 47 , would like a 48 or 49 if available ,

also ,

what options for the smaller front ,
Wemoto in the UK has them, 49 rear. Also a 15 front, I wouldn't go smaller, the chain might start eating the slider on the swingarm. (scroll down to 'transmission section')
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:47 PM   #13016
quint7
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Finger Lakes (Rochester) NY
Oddometer: 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbert View Post
Wemoto in the UK has them, 49 rear. Also a 15 front, I wouldn't go smaller, the chain might start eating the slider on the swingarm. (scroll down to 'transmission section')
Custom sprockets aren't that expensive in my mind. I've done some swing arm and wheel only conversions that required either a lot of machine work or a custom sprocket to match the wheel/size/pitch of what I was using. Sprocket Specialists is who I used. I think it was $80.00 for an aluminum custom rear in the 45-48 tooth range for a Zephyr I did.
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Old 03-20-2012, 09:14 PM   #13017
rwjr14
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Joined: Dec 2010
Oddometer: 1
Xrv1000

I took a 03 superhawk and converted it to an XRV1000
added multistrada front end with ducati gt hubs and excel rims front and rear
tins are off a FJR1300 along with the saddle and tail piece (has a nice turn signal tailight combo)
purchased a fairing out of italy for a transalp and added lights from a fzr600
i get about 250 miles to a tank, put a few 600 mile days on it seems to be a real comfortable bike that handles quite well and doesn't mind a little gravel mixed in there

if i can figure out how to post some pics i'll add some
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:22 AM   #13018
selah
Crestone
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Oddometer: 63
Africa Twin Seat.

Just wondering if any of the folks that have put the Africa Twin tank and faring on their Alps have put an AT seat on as well. If so are the attachment points the same?

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:41 PM   #13019
Ladder106
It's a short cut, really
 
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Oddometer: 4,904
The RD03/04 seat is close.

It matches the AT tank better than the standard TA seat (which has to be bent back at the nose) but sits lower down on the side panels than the TA seat. It looks OK but over time the seat wears the paint away on the side panels.

The RD07 seat can be made to work but the front clip has to be recut and brackets have to be built for the rear.
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:49 PM   #13020
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,504
My RD04,( I think) seat seems to fit really good. Pic on post #12772. It bolts right up to the TA frame like it was made for it. Mine has RD04 side panels and rear sub frame for the RD04 rear rack, so I can't speak to the fit with TA panels. I didn't do the conversion, but I did have to weld two mounting brackets on the frame to mount the rear sub frame. The mounts were not welded by the PO and did not support the rear rack in an upward direction. While I've got it apart I'm doing a mod on the front upper Givi engine guard mount. At some point the u-bolts on the stock mounts dinged my front fender, during a bottom out of the forks, I guess. This mod will cure that problem. Also I need to figure a way to mount the seat without having to remove the side racks and panels. Maybe like the Husky te610. Royce
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