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Old 08-06-2012, 08:11 AM   #13501
Cruz
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Northside Brisbane, Qld Australia
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On my 87 600 Transalp the battery has been boiled dry on two occasions after riding both times for approximately 350 klms.

After checking the charging rate with two separate testers the charge rate sometimes climbs up to 15.7 volts, and then down to 11 volts and anywhere in between. This is at idle, whilst revving the engine, and with headlights on/off etc.

I am presuming the problem is a stuffed rec/regulator, does this sound correct?

Should i refit an oem shunt type rec/reg or replace it with a mosfett type one off of a late modelR1 Yamaha or something like that?
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:52 PM   #13502
2bold2getold
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Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruz View Post
On my 87 600 Transalp the battery has been boiled dry on two occasions after riding both times for approximately 350 klms.

After checking the charging rate with two separate testers the charge rate sometimes climbs up to 15.7 volts, and then down to 11 volts and anywhere in between. This is at idle, whilst revving the engine, and with headlights on/off etc.

I am presuming the problem is a stuffed rec/regulator, does this sound correct?

Should i refit an oem shunt type rec/reg or replace it with a mosfett type one off of a late modelR1 Yamaha or something like that?
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Previous posts reference dirty conection as the culprit. The cure seems to be to disconnect and clean every contact on the bike. Especially the ones from the stator to the reg/rec. IIRC some have run a new wire from the battery to the regulator so the RR doesn't sense the increased resistance/voltage drop. The old Goldwings had this problem so bad that most people just removed the plactic connectors and soldered the wires together.
Here's on thread on the problem and there are more. Do a search.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=563595
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:11 PM   #13503
mikejohn
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Greenest state in the land of the free
Oddometer: 1,144
I am planing to build a trans hawk this winter, what other swing arms will work? CRF? XR? I plan to adapt this over to a rear disc brake also would CRF 450 forks be the way to go?
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:37 PM   #13504
Jim Rowley
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Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Black Forest, Colorado
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Originally Posted by mikejohn View Post
I am planing to build a trans hawk this winter, what other swing arms will work? CRF? XR? I plan to adapt this over to a rear disc brake also would CRF 450 forks be the way to go?
I have three swingarms, XR650R, XR650L and Africa Twin RD04. Guess which one will be a bolt on. The AT. The first two are way too short The TA frame is almost identical to the AT's. I have one of each. Another option is a later model TA with the rear disc brake. Either way, you'll have to source your parts from Europe.

The front is a little easier. My AT rides on a complete CR front end. The TA has a complete WP set from a 2001 KTM. I had it laying around. You'll have to source the right steering head bearings and may have to machine the stem. But it's easy enough.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:49 PM   #13505
Freakdaddy
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Location: Inland Empire
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Handlebar Switch

Just spliced in a '86 Honda XL 600 left handlebar switch for old damaged one FYI . It works without a lot of drama.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:59 PM   #13506
ZenMo
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Transalp in CA?!?!

Do any of you guys know anybody that is trying to sell their '89 TA?

I've been looking for a longtime and have had no luck. It would be amazing to find one in California.

Let me know!
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Old 08-07-2012, 01:33 AM   #13507
Cruz
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Northside Brisbane, Qld Australia
Oddometer: 5,884
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Previous posts reference dirty conection as the culprit. The cure seems to be to disconnect and clean every contact on the bike. Especially the ones from the stator to the reg/rec. IIRC some have run a new wire from the battery to the regulator so the RR doesn't sense the increased resistance/voltage drop. The old Goldwings had this problem so bad that most people just removed the plactic connectors and soldered the wires together.
Here's on thread on the problem and there are more. Do a search.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=563595
Thanks. *Already cleaned all connections with electrical cleaner and cloth. *Checked voltage in wires from stator and in normal range. *Checks by 2 multimeters showed wildly fluctuating voltage from rec/reg to battery from under 12 to over 16 volts at idle and through out the rev range.

Found this;
The regulator and rectifier are two seperate component parts typically combined into one single housing. The rectifier is an assembly of diodes that, when connected to an AC line, produces a pulsed DC output. If one or more diodes in the rectifier fail, the current output will be reduced which leads to an undercharged battery. The regulator regulates the voltage produced by the alternator. A failing regulator results in a much higher than normal voltage that overcharges and boils the bike battery (an overcharged battery will not hold a charge). The bike lights would also be brighter than normal, often burning out bulbs very quickly. If you notice any of the above symptoms then it's possible you need to replace your regulator/rectifier.*

More here;
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/i...arging-system/

http://www.triumphrat.net/daytona-de...-solution.html

http://www.triumphrat.net/daytona-de...ml#post1023477

Will try a new rec/reg first, at worst I will have a spare, and then if that does not fix it then work from there.
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:17 AM   #13508
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruz View Post
Thanks. *Already cleaned all connections with electrical cleaner and cloth. *Checked voltage in wires from stator and in normal range. *Checks by 2 multimeters showed wildly fluctuating voltage from rec/reg to battery from under 12 to over 16 volts at idle and through out the rev range.

Found this;
The regulator and rectifier are two seperate component parts typically combined into one single housing. The rectifier is an assembly of diodes that, when connected to an AC line, produces a pulsed DC output. If one or more diodes in the rectifier fail, the current output will be reduced which leads to an undercharged battery. The regulator regulates the voltage produced by the alternator. A failing regulator results in a much higher than normal voltage that overcharges and boils the bike battery (an overcharged battery will not hold a charge). The bike lights would also be brighter than normal, often burning out bulbs very quickly. If you notice any of the above symptoms then it's possible you need to replace your regulator/rectifier.*

More here;
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/i...arging-system/

http://www.triumphrat.net/daytona-de...-solution.html

http://www.triumphrat.net/daytona-de...ml#post1023477

Will try a new rec/reg first, at worst I will have a spare, and then if that does not fix it then work from there.
Thanks for the links. Looks like you got it figured out. My TA has also had RR difficulty, and the PO, Lear60man, replaced the RR with one from an "84 VRF500F. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=303110 Seems to work fine. There may be better options. When you find one, please let us know. From my experience in the auto repair business, the diodes in the rectifier can open ( no current ) or short ( drains battery ). The regulator part can do anything from nothing to way too much. On car altenators You used to be able to replace individual diodes. Don't think you can do that anymore.
Wow, I read most of thoes links. There is a lot of info and a lot of options for using different rec/reg and wiring mods. Good stuff. Thanks again.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 08-07-2012 at 08:25 PM
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:34 PM   #13509
Cruz
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Location: Northside Brisbane, Qld Australia
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Will let you know how the new one works out.

The more I read the more I became a bit unsure of what I was doing or planning to do so I went for a straight replacement which is coming from the UK.
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:11 PM   #13510
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruz View Post
Will let you know how the new one works out.

The more I read the more I became a bit unsure of what I was doing or planning to do so I went for a straight replacement which is coming from the UK.
If I'm reading/understanding it correctly, The mod is to take the charging output from the rec/reg, hook the two rw wires together at the RR plug and run two 12 guage wires directly to the + side of the battery. This just eliminates the round about way the charging power gets to the battery with a larger total wire guage. There was some discusion on wether or not do use a fuse and what size if you do. Then do the same thing with the two green ( ground ) wires at the same place. That is, hook the two green wires together at the RR plug with two 12 guage wires and run them to the best ground point. Probably the battery also, sense it's so close on the TA. All of this just gives a larger, shorter path for charging power and ground from the RR. I'm gonna try it. You really aren't changing anything ( except for the fuse thing ) Just running shorter, bigger wires. I've got the same indicated charging symptom these other guys have. Doesn't ever get to a solid 14.5V.
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:12 PM   #13511
thebigman
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A little freshening up .


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Old 08-09-2012, 12:55 AM   #13512
Cruz
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Northside Brisbane, Qld Australia
Oddometer: 5,884
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
If I'm reading/understanding it correctly, The mod is to take the charging output from the rec/reg, hook the two rw wires together at the RR plug and run two 12 guage wires directly to the + side of the battery. This just eliminates the round about way the charging power gets to the battery with a larger total wire guage. There was some discusion on wether or not do use a fuse and what size if you do. Then do the same thing with the two green ( ground ) wires at the same place. That is, hook the two green wires together at the RR plug with two 12 guage wires and run them to the best ground point. Probably the battery also, sense it's so close on the TA. All of this just gives a larger, shorter path for charging power and ground from the RR. I'm gonna try it. You really aren't changing anything ( except for the fuse thing ) Just running shorter, bigger wires. I've got the same indicated charging symptom these other guys have. Doesn't ever get to a solid 14.5V.
What do you do with the black wire?
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Old 08-09-2012, 04:26 AM   #13513
Belgian Waffles
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Green. Wet. Oregon.
Oddometer: 874
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenMo View Post
Do any of you guys know anybody that is trying to sell their '89 TA?

I've been looking for a longtime and have had no luck. It would be amazing to find one in California.

Let me know!
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=815600
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Old 08-09-2012, 04:26 AM   #13514
HEKOT
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Oddometer: 105
My TA 650 2007:
0. Red stars and Transalp Owners Club stickers
1. Braided brake lines
2. Brake pedal extension Touratech
3. Gear shift lever Touratech
4. PivotPegs (made in Australia, sold by German Touratech, sent to Russia and bought back to Australia. The price did not change.)
5. Engine protection Touratech
6. Hands protection Touratech
7. Headlight protection Touratech
8. Handlebar risers Tusk 35mm
9. Rear bars Touratech
10. Centre stand SW-Motech
11. Side stand extention Handmade
12. Fairing protection Touratech (installed later, not present on all photos)
13. Tank paint protection Handmade (Oxford film)
14. Progressive springs

Additional:
1. Touring chopper style footpegs
2. High windscreen removed due to useless
3. Fog lights Hella FF-75 not installed yet
4. Cool mug Touratech :)



























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Old 08-09-2012, 04:37 AM   #13515
atgreg
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Location: Sydney Australia
Oddometer: 10,013
nice Hekot, say g'day here as well

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=384629
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