Show us your TransAlp modifications!

[Blackbert]

I don't remember the numbers, but the maximum with stock TA swingarm and linkage is dictated by the space where the shock goes between the swingarm and the linkage (hope that makes any sense). At a certain angle, the swingarm 'bridge' touches the spring. You can't raise the rear more than that. My wilbers shock has the extra lenght in travel, not just as a 'spacer' at the bottom. The only thing you need to watch is the wear of the chainguide on top of the swingarm. If the chain is set correctly with stock suspension, it will have a little more slack when the bike sits higher. No problems there.

[Ladder106]

FWIW, I didn't like the Sarhara 3 front.

It followed every rut and crack in both pavement and dirt and didn't want to climb up out of ruts at all.

[mas335]

Originally Posted by Ladder106

FWIW, I didn't like the Sarhara 3 front.

It followed every rut and crack in both pavement and dirt and didn't want to climb up out of ruts at all.

That is what I did not like about the Metzler Tourance, on pavement is followed every road imperfection, I found it annoying and they did not ride as smooth or a quiet as the Distanzia's. The Avon's do pretty good off road unless it is wet.

[Cruz]

I found the same thing with the Sahara 3 front. The E07 front was a lot better on and off road.

[Bossit]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the quick replies!
@Blackbert: What did you pay for the Wilbers shock? Was that one made by your demands? Where do live in Belgium? Maybe it's interesting to meet? :-)
@Daveski: The point is that i putted a AT RD03 swingarm already in my bike(PD06). And i've got a rear shock from an AT from a friend( i guess RD06 or RD07). The gas tube comes out in the front of the shock. This way i can't use it as it's in the way for the water reservoir from the cooling system. I guess what you're saying is that maybe your set up on the bike is different then mine. Or the rear shock from an AT RD03 is different then the one i've got.
I'll have a look into it.
Hope top hear from you guys again!

Thanks a lot! :-)

[Daveski]

You are right, that tube is a pain - and needs lengthing. Another inmate pointed this out to me that a chap on here looked like he'd already done this (Santa?), and lengthened the tube alot. I think it probably also needs a right angle bend where it exits the shock body to completely stop it interfering with the coolant reservoir. I'm interested to see how you get on with a Wilbers shock if that's the way you go, as it looks like a great aftermarket option. Cheers.

[Ladder106]

Just

Move

The

Coolant

Tank


It's much easier than getting a longer high pressure hose for the rear shock. Plus....IMHO, the AT rear shock is no better than the standard TA unit...just fancier.

Believe me, once you put a decent rear shock on this bike you'll wonder why you didn't do it much sooner.

The coolant tank connection is only a bit of tubing. The tank can be any shape and located almost anywhere on the bike. You can find many different tanks, shapes and sizes from auto parts stores.

[locorider]

Agree 100%

I'm keeping mine!

Originally Posted by Ladder106

Did a 200 mile back-country ride with a SF bay group this Sunday.

Lately I've been looking at the new Tenere and the 990Adventures.

So, the ride took us on paved one-lane back country roads and up and down some fairly steep, loose, rocky and dusty two-track "almost roads".

The ride was just a ride, not a race and the bikes ranged from a GasGas300 (yes street legal...dunno how) to KTM 450s, 2 VStroms, a new Tenere, a KLR and a few BMWs.

So, as rides go...as we started climbing up the second dirt section the pace....uhmm...picked up a few notches.

The dedicated dirt bikes ran off to the point of hardly even seening their dust but my AfricaAlp and the two 990s were all in the second group. This lasted for 10 minutes or so untill first one KTM and then the other got past on long(ish) straight sections. It's hard to beat that Horsepower. I rode alone for the next few miles between the KTMs and the other more street oriented bikes.

At rides end we sat in the shade, drank Gatorade and traded stories. Lots of interest in the AfricaAlp. I thought it sure would be nice to have one of those new KTMs and started asking questions.

I wasn't very happy with what I discovered.......To wit:

Mileage: 35 mpg average
Range: About 150 miles before "reserve"
Rear tire cost: About $200
Rear tire life: 2000 miles (or less) on a knobby depending on terrain and how much throttle is used
Initial cost: Ouch !

The AfricaAlp:
Mileage: 42-45 mpg...never seen worse than 38
Range: 300 miles with the Africa Twin tank
Rear tire cost: $68.00 for a Michelin T63
Rear tire life: 3500 miles (cause there's not enough HP to shred it) (and also because I never ride knobs below 4mm or so...what's the point?)
Initial cost: $3000 a few years ago. Probably $5000 with mods

On the whole I was very pleased with how the AfricaAlp held up compared to stuff that was decades more modern.

Given the initial cost and range disadvantages of the big KTMs...I think I'll keep the Honda around for quite a while longer.

[Dudley]

Originally Posted by Dekatria

Hi guys,

I need a few suggestions on a new rear tire for my '99 Alp. Currently it has Anakees on it and they're fine for commuting, but when it comes to riding loaded on a trip, they seem to wear pretty easily, especially in the rear. My last rear tire did 8000km of which 3500 were loaded, and it was worn right down to the legal limit.

With my upcoming 7000km trip this summer, I'm looking for a better option. Anyone got ideas?

I run Avon Gripsters on my Transalp. Outstanding grip on dry and wet as well. I can drag the pegs and have scraped the aluminum bags. Decent offroad and superior mileage before changing them out. Its an older tire but they are suburb and priced right. Do not overlook them. With the low horsepower Transalps they don't get chewed up.

Dudley

[showkey]

Originally Posted by Dudley

I run Avon Gripsters on my Transalp.

Dudley

+ 2 on the Gripsters

[Crash48]

Just bought this a couple of days ago.
Chain, sprockets and steering head bearings are all it seems to need right now.
Rear Kenda and front Trailwing should suffice.
Appears to be an OEM rear shock but probably not the original as the bike with 83k kms runs very smooth over rough roads.
Not sure what handle bars they are but ergos suit my 5'10" 185lb 31" inseam frame... stock screen works well with my full face but produces noise and buffeting with my 3/4 - suspect a spoiler may help.
Wheels are a little pitted and spokes have lost their sheen but rust seems minimal so I hope they hold out.
I won't be taking it off road... mostly got it for bumpy/pot holed pavement and gravel - so may not opt for the crash bars yet.
Comments and / or suggestions greatly appreciated

[Ladder106]

All our spokes look like that....well...probably not Marks.....no worries there I'd put a drop of oil on each nipple overnight and then just give the nipple a wiggle with a spoke wrench to make certain none of them are frozen.

The bad spots on the wheel OUTSIDE aren't too bad. Most importantly...pull the tire and tube and look INSIDE. That bike has seen some salt air or a lot of moisture. Water gets between the tube and rim at the schrader valve and causes unseen corrosion at that point. I've seen a few rims that look "OK" from the outside but are badly eaten up on the inside....safety issue.

Your chain and sprockets look like they should be replaced. Don't run the chain too tight. It should look more like a MX bike than a street bike. 1.75 to 2 in of play in the middle of the run is about right.

[Crash48]

Originally Posted by Ladder106

All our spokes look like that....well...probably not Marks.....no worries there I'd put a drop of oil on each nipple overnight and then just give the nipple a wiggle with a spoke wrench to make certain none of them are frozen.

The bad spots on the wheel OUTSIDE aren't too bad. Most importantly...pull the tire and tube and look INSIDE. That bike has seen some salt air or a lot of moisture. Water gets between the tube and rim at the schrader valve and causes unseen corrosion at that point. I've seen a few rims that look "OK" from the outside but are badly eaten up on the inside....safety issue.

Your chain and sprockets look like they should be replaced. Don't run the chain too tight. It should look more like a MX bike than a street bike. 1.75 to 2 in of play in the middle of the run is about right.

Thanks for the reply and advice Ladder - chain and sprockets should arrive Wednesday.

[Cruz]

So, what is a good, light replacement front disc rotor to fit to a 1987 600.
Didn't realise how heavy the oem disc is.

[R_Rick]

Hey Crash,

Nice to see another Bluenoser with an 87. If you're in need of shop manuals (honda and haynes) let me know and I'll drop a copy onto cd/flash drive for you.
cheers,

Rick