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Old 11-25-2012, 11:19 AM   #13906
Ladder106
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Aw Shucks...........

Thanks, DrE, for the recent compliments

...but I have a confession. I've have, so far, never split the cases on a Transalp or AT engine.

The real knowledge base on this thread is MAS335.

I just tend to shoot my mouth off more often than he does (not that he actually "shoots his mout off"....he's just much more ....uhmmm....circumspect than I) ....so......

Mark, You Da Man, man

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Old 11-25-2012, 03:10 PM   #13907
Dr E
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Well, started on the tear down and I tell you, it never ceases to amaze me at what people consider an "appropriate" fix to a problem.

OK, your on a ride and drop your bike, cracking your side panel:

A) You buy a replacement panel
B) You take the panel off and fix it in proper fashion
C) You glue the panel together with fabric tape, hot glue and duct tape and a cheap epoxy...and just to make sure it sticks together you glue it to the radiator shroud for good measure!

Well, it wasn't A or B!

I have my work cut out on the right side panel repairing it (unless someone has a right large fairing they would like to sell). Another thing that the PO did for what ever reason was to cut the handle bars making them at least 2" inches shorter on each side??? Oh, this was my favorite, how do you hold your windscreen on to the fairing if you don't have the correct fastener? If you said, toggle bolt you are right! Not one, or two...but four toggle bolts!

Fortunately the wiring has not been chewed up and there is almost zero rust on any of the components including the exhaust. So her bones are good, but the body needs to be cleaned up and proper fasteners used.

Oh well, half the fun of an older bike is fixing it up. I was just shocked by the level of ineptitude shown in putting her back together.

Eric
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:38 PM   #13908
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It is amazing some of the stuff you see when doing an old bike right. Good for you bringing it back up to spec.

Marc
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:42 PM   #13909
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Eric, Eric Eric......you haven't seen anything yet.



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Old 11-25-2012, 04:11 PM   #13910
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I remember that earlier in this thread! I could hide a dead body and three major crashes in that paint scheme as this what happens when the Lucky Charms Leprechaun drinks to much!

Eric
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:01 PM   #13911
Jim Rowley
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In case anyone is converting their TA into an AT, I have some parts for sale in FM.
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:04 PM   #13912
Lomax
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Thank again Jim,

I got to do a good ride today and the more I ride it the more I am liking it. What a fun bike and you set it up VERY well.

There be Buffalo and mountains and snow.





Marc
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:23 PM   #13913
Boon Booni
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I don't see anything in the design that looks odd. Have any of you guys figured out why this happens more than other motors or does it ?
One thing I noticed on my TA. The previous owner had installed a K&N airfilter. On the end of the airfilter where it seals with the snorkle to the carbs there was a foam doughnut.

Now I know there is already a lipped seal in the airbox...



..which would be #4 in the diagram.

Not being a fan of K&N filters I ordered a stock filter and installed it without the foam doughnut. (foam doughnut would fit on the bottom of the filter between the filter and #4) When I installed the new filter I was a little bothered because if felt like the filter bottomed out on the outside of the airbox before it came into contact with #4. So I check it. I smeared some grease on #4 and re-installed the filter and snugged it up with the screws. I removed the filter and found no transfer from #4 to the bottom of the filter meaning that, on my bike, the stock filter would allow unfiltered air into the motor.

I though maybe the #4 seal was worn so I purchased another one. Same issue, no grease transfer to the filter body. So I used some grease to stick the foam doughnut to the bottom of the filter and when installing it this time the filter clearly bottomed out against #4 before bottoming out against the outside of the airbox, so tightening the screws snugged everything up to properly filter the air.

Long story short (I know, too late) maybe my TA isn't the only one with a poor seal at the bottom of the air filter, so maybe there's more dirty air ingestion causing ring wear, cylinder wear, and valve stem wear making the motors consume more oil.

YMMV.

I have no idea where the foam doughnut came from, it's not on any fiche I've looked on, and assume it's something that came with the K&N filter that the PO installed.

Doughnut example...



..same square cross section, though mine was black with and ID and OD just smaller and larger than the diameter of the #4 seal. Maybe 3/4-1" wide and perhaps 1/4" thick, maybe a little more.
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:52 AM   #13914
Ladder106
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Good catch Boon,

I've been using a home-built foamy filter for quite a while now and when I built it the rear seal was something I paid particular attention to.

It's interesting to note that the standard filter may not fit correctly. It's certainly something everyone should spend a few minutes and a few dabs of grease to check.
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:12 AM   #13915
ric678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mas335 View Post
Eric, Eric Eric......you haven't seen anything yet.



I almost bought this one when it was up for auction
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Old 11-26-2012, 07:47 AM   #13916
tuffgong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr E View Post

I need to go through and organize all of my notes in to their sections and update my required parts list. I think what I will do is turn this into a PDF and post it on Google Docs so if anyone wants a copy of my crib notes drawn from almost 9 years of accumulated data here. Did I capture everything? Not by a long shot!

A PDF would be fine thing.Your work will be much appreciated.
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:02 AM   #13917
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I will work on it this week and see how far I get. I have a couple of folks that I want to proof it for content since modifications and advise changes over 9 years, and than I get it posted.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:44 AM   #13918
old2wheeler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lomax View Post
Rod,

Thank you so very much and sorry for the really late reply. It looks like the muffler sticks out about 4 & 1/8 from the original tail rack. It does come up quite a bit in the rear and it might be hit or miss if the 5 & 1/2 down from the stock rack would fit. It sounds like it will be worth a try and if nothing else I break out the welder and customize some more.

I have no idea if you can see what I am talking about in these pictures but I will try.



DOH I really need to paint that rear rack don't I.


Thanks again.

Marc
I took some pictures and numbered them this morning; they are at http://s1208.beta.photobucket.com/us...ler/library/TA Rack
Send me an email (rodhouse at mac dot com) if you can't see them.

I see a likely interference in the way that your muffler angles up as you noted in the second sentence above.

My pictures #5 & #3 lead me to think the length of your muffler will not interfere with the rear rack bracket that ties the two sides together.

Also your first picture seems to me like your muffler sticks out to the side less than the stock, which is a good sign.

If you look at my #'s 1, 2, 7, & 10, you will see that the stock muffler is pretty level whereas yours angles up. That is where it looks like there might be the interference we both are seeing.

If this isn't clear drop me an email and I'll attempt my explanation with the actual pics. If all else fails we might consider meeting somewhere in between for an actual comparison. Good luck,

Rod

PS: Don't compare the scratches on your rack to my bike; I bought mine from the east coast Mark(sp?): mas335. It is an immaculate example of his work!!
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:48 PM   #13919
mas335
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Boon Booni, I have been thinking about your posting and I will have to admit I have seen a few that has less contact then I would like but I have never seen any filters that had no contact.

I only see three reasons why a air filter would not shoulder against the inside seal:

a) compressed inside seal caused prehaps by the K&N being a bit longer and deformed the seal

b) After market air filter (Emgo, etc) that was not quite up to specs as oem filter length

c) the rubber seal on the metal filter top lip is too think or miss aligned and is keeping the filter from seating properly on the air box opening.

d) bad batch of filters that are a tad too short.

"a" is out because you changed that seal,
"b" is out becasue you bought a OEM Honda filter ( right?)

It would be interesting to know just what the cause was. The seal on the metal filter lid is not critical because anything that sneaks past it is before the filtering process anyway but the other end is definately important.

For anyone who may check their filter for this seat contact you should find a wear ring on the end of the filter can where is makes contact, the grease test is the best test.

Another problem that I have seen is the seal at the air box end of the air tunnel and the rubber boot manifold that connects the tunnel to the air box, bottom side is the culprit trouble area, if the carbs have ever been pulled their is a 50/50 chance it is not connected correctly.

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Old 11-26-2012, 04:55 PM   #13920
Boon Booni
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mas335 View Post
"b" is out becasue you bought a OEM Honda filter ( right?)
Yep, genuine Honda.

My though is perhaps one of the previous owners had the wrong filter in there and distorted the airbox.
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