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Old 12-10-2012, 07:47 PM   #13996
Hotmamaandme
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Gardnerville NV
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That eBay chain and sprocket set is cheap and maybe too cheap. A good chain alone should cost around $100. Having seen front spline drive sprocket wear I will only get oem front sprockets the rear and chain just good quality but dosnt have to be oem
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:09 PM   #13997
WeeBee
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Windsor, CA
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Last chain I bought was an EK X-Ring from ebay seller moto-heaven for less than $100 shipped. They were great to deal with and have an excellent reputation.

EK 525 SRX GOLD 120 links Motorcycle drive Chain X-RIng
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:15 AM   #13998
danyila
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Hungary
Oddometer: 60
http://transalp.danyila.hu/lajos/haspancel/DSCF9810.JPG

http://transalp.danyila.hu/lajos/haspancel/DSCF9811.JPG

http://transalp.danyila.hu/lajos/haspancel/DSCF9776.JPG



6 mm aluminimu plate. Rivet 8mm aluminum

danyila screwed with this post 12-11-2012 at 07:27 AM
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:18 AM   #13999
mgorman
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Location: Massillon, Ohio
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Couldn't get the links to show so I edited them. My TA plate is cracked and getting fugly. Need something Heavy like this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by danyila View Post








6 mm aluminimu plate. Rivet 8mm aluminum
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:27 AM   #14000
Kamala
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Location: Nashoba Valley
Oddometer: 12,324
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffgong View Post
Clutch replacement on an 89 TA 600 looks to be a fairly straight forward proposition without too many complications,open access and no special tools required. Am I kidding myself?
You will need something (Clutch basket Tool, Pennys, Wood) to keep the basket from rotating to get the nut off but other than that its pretty easy. BTW, more often than not all you need for a slipping clutch are new clutch springs. If you are replacing them (as you should) its worth while to see if just those alone solves the slipping problem.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:03 PM   #14001
Transalp1999
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Joined: Nov 2012
Location: SVG, EWR
Oddometer: 13
Question What the heck am I missing!?

I put a new National Cycle windscreen on this evening and put new windscreen screws in (Since the originals were in rough shape). Problem is the darn things don't tighten down like they should. They just spin. I've tried grabbing the back with a par of needle-nose pliers but no luck. Think it's just cheap rubber that's not compressing to form a seal?? Or what??

Cheers!
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:59 PM   #14002
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Transalp1999 View Post
I put a new National Cycle windscreen on this evening and put new windscreen screws in (Since the originals were in rough shape). Problem is the darn things don't tighten down like they should. They just spin. I've tried grabbing the back with a par of needle-nose pliers but no luck. Think it's just cheap rubber that's not compressing to form a seal?? Or what??

Cheers!
I'm guessing these are what are called "well nuts". A flanged rubber tube with a brass threaded insert in one end. I had some that the threaded part turned in the rubber. I carefully used a little super glue on the metal part and quickly reinserted in the rubber. Worked good. Try to keep it straight, and check the threads on the screws. Or get new well nuts at a hardware store or bike shop.
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:11 PM   #14003
mgorman
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Make sure the new screws are threaded all the way up, maybe you are running out of threads before it gets tight or they are too long?
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:46 PM   #14004
Ladder106
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Location: Davis, CA
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The wellnut rubber end should be a very snug fit in the hole. I have to use a bit of ArmorAll to lube them up a bit before they will pop in.

If they just fall into the hole they are the wrong size

They also have to be long enough to allow the inside bit to deform slightly (like a rivet) to hold the screen tightly against the frame.
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:42 AM   #14005
danyila
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgorman View Post
Couldn't get the links to show so I edited them. My TA plate is cracked and getting fugly. Need something Heavy like this.
This is a very robust.
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:49 AM   #14006
ChrisUK
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Location: God's Own County
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Updates of RR involving a TA at http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...=828973&page=5

Take a look?
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:33 AM   #14007
DualDog
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Galesburg, IL
Oddometer: 150
Fronk Shocks/Forks

My 1989 Transalp is leaking from front shock and boots are falling apart and has had quite a bit of sag in front end for awhile.
Getting ready to order some Progressive Springs.
Also getting some Honda Fork Seals and Dust Covers.
Question. What is a good fork boot to use? I put Daystar brand ones on my KLR650 and have been happy. Was wondering if anybody is using these and if so, what size. I have seen some sites say the size 58 is what is needed and others say size 69 is what is needed and Daystar website does not list what will fit this cycle. Any suggestions on what size or suggestion on another brand would be helpful (or a brand to avoid).

I am wondering if any special tools and/or equipement will be needed to do this.

Also, any help or suggestions here would be appreciated on how to perform this job.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:18 AM   #14008
Rob 110
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Location: UK, OK?
Oddometer: 40
noob

hi been lurking for a while and reading up on what to do!

bought this 99 bike with 30,000miles, ex Police bike for 800


got 87 CR500 cartridge forks and RD03 swinger, plus '83 CR250 shocker, so it'll all happen slowly



managed to get a bit done today!


sold loads on ebay, fairing, bars, etc for over 300!!!!

so bought loads too


the transalp exhaust was rotten and i'd always planned for it to go, bit when i removed it actually broke off from the header!

especially pleased with the replacement titanium Gixxer pipe for 11.20 delivered! half the weight too at only 3kg

talking of weightloss i've actually taken 23.5kg off it!
but replacements for some parts only adding 3.8kg, but fairing and a new headlamp will add to this

got the CR forks/XR yokes in today, had to drill and tap some lock stops, but fairly straightforward.
Pleased to find the Transalp progressive springs were longer than the CR ones!
But removing the CR spacer makes em fit with a bit of preload. Trying 5w oil and 120mm air gap.
Oil removed was pretty clean for the age of the forks.


more next week and over chrimbo
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:38 AM   #14009
Ladder106
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As with any fork swap, you'll want to be certain that the front wheel/tire/fender does not compress so far that it contacts the triple clamp or the frame downtube or crashbars.

Remove the springs and raise the wheel until the fork stops going up...see if anything gets in the way of the tire.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:44 AM   #14010
Rob 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
As with any fork swap, you'll want to be certain that the front wheel/tire/fender does not compress so far that it contacts the triple clamp or the frame downtube or crashbars.

Remove the springs and raise the wheel until the fork stops going up...see if anything gets in the way of the tire.
thanks
ooops, had read about it and forgot too
i've ditched the crashbars so no probs there
the 87 CR500 forks are apparently same as later XR6 cartridge forks, so clearance should be ok:/

its going to have a one off fairing made (bodged) for a rally-alp look, eventually;)
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