Show us your TransAlp modifications!

[Hotmamaandme]

Floyd nice plastic repair!

[Ladder106]

Beautiful overall repair job, Floyd.

Great to have those skills.

I've always suspected that the crashbars using bend flat-stock would not hold up well to impact. Do you remember what name of the companly that built those?

[Iron_Floyd]

Originally Posted by Ladder106

Beautiful overall repair job, Floyd.

Great to have those skills.

I've always suspected that the crashbars using bend flat-stock would not hold up well to impact. Do you remember what name of the companly that built those?

Hepco and Backer Germany

http://www.moto24.co.uk/hepco-becker...ine-guard.html

On page says:

High quality engine guard for your Honda XL 600 V TRANSALP Bj. 87 - 97 made by Hepco & Becker.

High quality I don't know what would left from my bike if the impact was stronger...

I bought the bike with it...

[Iron_Floyd]

Transalp factory Italy http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=9Rm38eHk5gA

[potski]

Nice find Floyd.

Thanks for posting

Cheers
Potski

[Dudley]

Another rear shock question. Is the rear on my '89 Transalp rebuildable or shall I replace it? If replacement is in order what is a good choice? Cogent Dynamics at $695 or? Are Wilbers available? What else on the market?
Cogent Dynaymics rebuilt my forks and did a great job so I'm thinking staying with what I know.
Dudley

[Ladder106]

I want to work in the Sticker Room, please

[2bold2getold]

Originally Posted by Iron_Floyd

Transalp factory Italy http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=9Rm38eHk5gA

Notice how tight that guy set the chain on that Transalp.

[Hotmamaandme]

Originally Posted by Dudley

Another rear shock question. Is the rear on my '89 Transalp rebuildable or shall I replace it? If replacement is in order what is a good choice? Cogent Dynamics at $695 or? Are Wilbers available? What else on the market?
Cogent Dynaymics rebuilt my forks and did a great job so I'm thinking staying with what I know.
Dudley

go with a new aftermarket shock. I just ordered a rear Ohlins from a dealer in the vendors section. Wilbur's, YSS or hyperpro as well make nice TA shocks.

[locorider]

Originally Posted by happyclam

While we're on the rear shock question. I'll need to update my 89' eventually. I did the spacer with even more modification. Does any of the xr shock fit? Noticed Dr. E. went with the 250 and upgraded spring. Just wanted to know so i can start watching flea bay.

Very nice. I did the poor man mod on this.

http://www.servimg.com/image_preview...=26&u=13019616. (sorry, I cannot copy the Bbcode from the iPaid)
http://www.servimg.com/image_preview...=27&u=13019616

This spacer is 28mm long, but I barely reach the floor, but with the tip of my boots

But I made a spacer which is about 2 mm shorter, that lowered the bike 1 inch.

[NorCalTA]

Originally Posted by Dudley

Another rear shock question. Is the rear on my '89 Transalp rebuildable or shall I replace it? If replacement is in order what is a good choice? Cogent Dynamics at $695 or? Are Wilbers available? What else on the market?
Cogent Dynamics rebuilt my forks and did a great job so I'm thinking staying with what I know.
Dudley

I've spoken with Rick, the owner of Cogent Dynamics, by phone at length about his shocks. If I ever get another TA, I'll definitely be putting a Cogent rear shock on it. Lifetime warranty and made in the USA by a family-owned business of motosports enthusiasts is good enuf fo me .

[happyclam]

Hey locorider, I would of went that rout but quint7 was kind enough to send me 1 laying around. When i first put it on, i could barely get the shock on, it was way to tall, hence the mod. Took a machinest 3 weeks after he said it would take 10 minutes, 2 tries and $40 bucks. The ride height is much better now, but the shock still sucks. i have the xrl forks about 1/2 inch above triple clamp. Progress.....but a ways to go. Welcome Floyd, nice refurbish, i feel your pain. Oh yeah...I still need to pull my carb again...yea...

[bugman0914]

Ok here it goes! I am selling my 1989 XL600V Transalp. I thought I would post it here first. It has 18312 miles. I have had the carbs rebuilt, new tires, sprockets and chan in the last year or so. Oh and new tires. I am asking $3,500.00. The bike is located in Calabash NC as I have moved to the coast since my last post on here. My number is 910-880-2613 and my email is bugman@swva.net if anyone is interested. I can't load pictures for some reason so call or email me.
Thanks
Tony C

[Dr E]

Well, the build has gathered some steam in the last few days and I am surprised by how much I have gotten done. Well, it was time to dig into the last two major issues left on the mechanical side of things: Carbs and valve adjustment. I truly can see why everyone talks about the tight fit on the valve covers, if you don't have the carbs pulled and hoses removed they are not going anywhere. Well, since the bike is stripped it was not a big deal. Out of all six valves only one needed to be adjusted and that was only a minimal adjustment.

There was one significant issue in trying to do the valves, the center plug on the stator cover has seized itself into the housing to the point, that when I was trying to turn it with an allen wrench, a section of the plug fractured off in a metal chip. Nothing that made it fail, just a chip from the surface...so at some point I will be ordering a new one to replace this. Aluminum is so easy to gall in place its not surprising.

Note to anyone looking to replace the spark plugs! Those dang things require an 18mm socket to pull them out!!! I was going nuts as I have every spark plug socket known to man and nothing was fitting, so off to the auto store to look at tools. The manager said, Oh Yeah...you have one of those plugs they made for a short time that takes an odd size socket which we have! $5.00 later I was at home only to find out that while you can loosen the plug, the dang socket was stuck in the engine head. It required that I had to grind the edge of the socket down to a rounded smooth surface and it slipped in and out like butter. Anyway, any reason to buy a new tool.

But with the cover off I was able to inspect all the gears and stator, surprisingly there is no sign of wear on the gears and everything was extremely clean. I have been slowly discovering just how clean this bike is...luck of the draw on my part.

Now with the valves done, it was time to dig into the carbs. I spent the better part of an evening detailing and cleaning the carbs down to make them look like new. When I opened them up the diaphragms had no holes and were surprisingly clean, the rubber was very supple and I think they had about another season in them so it was a good time to replace them. I also did the slow jet 40 mod and that was a breeze. With this done I shut down for the night. I have found that taking small bites of this elephant each day allows me to focus on single tasks rather than trying to get lost in details and miss something.

Now, for anyone who thinks that mounting these carbs back on the engine is easy...well, that quite far from the case. You need to one, make sure they are oriented such that the notch on the rubber sleeve is aligned with the mating surface on the engine. Next, put some lub on the rubber sleeve on both ends as you need this to allow the carbs to slip into place. Trust me, trying it without it will leave you very frustrated. This is one area I would like to smack the back of the head of the engineer who designed this feature. Ugh... The same thing with the first part of the airbox that mounts to the carbs. Those fittings need a little lube to ease the mounting. I found that using a soft rubber weighted mallet was able to give the nudge and seat properly.

OK, now I need to address an issue that come up with regards to the 250 shock mod and the orientation of the reservoir and whether or not it will fit with the air box. I can say that it fits with NO MOD to the air box. It clears with over a 1/2" of clearance and there is no issue with the shock moving and hitting anything. So, it is possible to go with the orientation I have gone with, not loose the overflow bottle and have the banjo facing towards the wheel verses facing the engine.

A few other things, but I will save that for another post and some pictures.

Eric

[Rob 110]

bashplate made this weekend

its 10mm HDPE, £30 for 1000x500mm so offcut for the 404.
its a tough plastic which is hard to break, but does flex slightly
so i've doubled it up on the vulnerable sump with 10mm Acetal, tougher/hard/doesn't flex but 3 times the price (i had an offcut lying around)

i've made these for 3 or 4 dirtbikes over the years and they are cheap, light, strong and easy to make for DIY
you can cut with a jigsaw and heat it to bend with a heatgun. I have a strip heater and table saw so easier for me

cos the transalp sump hangs level with the bottom of the frame, i've spaced it by 15mm to allow for flex and have the Acetal in that area
(i bust a transalp sump in Morocco which had an Africa Twin 4mm ali bashplate)

Transalp bashplates are £160 for 3mm ali (grade not specified so won't be the Aircraft alloy Dural)
local fabricators wouldn't make me one for less than that so DIY

bit of faff and numerous refitting but....




on the bike (mudguard was £25 delivered off an Tenere)




had a thrash round the field finally and it was fun, needs a big space, think i'll lower the gearing!
fairing next weekend......