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Old 04-09-2013, 02:59 PM   #14536
Z_HARSH
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Denver
Oddometer: 465
TransAlp Parts

I just posted some parts for sale in the Flea-Market to help fund my TA's transformation:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=877598

Thanks!

-Zach Harsh


Well, looks like the mod squad nuked my post??? I am not too good at reading directions so who knows....I guess I will have to try again later but here is a link to the pictures of some of the items I would like to sell: http://s1235.photobucket.com/user/Z_...20Parts?page=1
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Z_HARSH screwed with this post 04-09-2013 at 04:02 PM Reason: They deleted my Flea-Market post...
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:15 PM   #14537
Spina
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Milano, Italy
Oddometer: 82
as I already said: the mechanic adjusted the idle ( 1200rpm at idle, at temperature ) but the other morning was cold and the bike struggled to start.
I started it with the choke open, it was fine, but I couldn't close the choke
I had to set the idle a little higher and I managed to run the bike with the choke closed, but the bike run badly at low rpm anyway. I have to check for the carbs membranes maybe...
In the meantime I'll try to clean the airfilter and the sparkplugs.

Anyway, Let's suppose that I don't know anything about maintenance. Just for a joke...*coff*
I took this photos of the bike, I'm a little afraid of the rust, especially for rear wheel axle, rims and frame: could this be a problem? I'm at risk for something? D: Could the rust have weakened the material, or it's just external usually?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...408192321.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...408192330.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...408192420.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...408192404.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...408192432.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...408192427.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...408192348.jpg/


I'm thinking of cleaning nuts, rims and spokes it with wd40, does this will work or it would weaken the pieces?

(again, sorry for the english )
Thanks!
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:23 PM   #14538
bartender
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Shrouds

Any know what shrouds these are? Are they custom or from some other bike?

Quote:
Originally Posted by WW-Tuareg View Post
on a little ride this sunday ...

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Old 04-10-2013, 01:16 AM   #14539
K4yakk0
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Location: Italy, Lucca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartender View Post
Any know what shrouds these are? Are they custom or from some other bike?
Some years ago i saw that mod and i look on the web to find some similar to adapt but i didn't find anithing right, so i build the shrouds in aluminium, than in fiberglass.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:26 AM   #14540
Ladder106
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Location: Davis, CA
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Rust never sleeps.

Spina,

Your cold start and choke problem is probably due to the same level of surface rust/corrosion evident in most of the bike.

Carefully remove the choke valves (10mm wrench but the covers are plastic and soft)from the carbs and check that they slide in and out easily without sticking. Then lubricate the choke cable and pay particular attention to the place where the choke cable splits from one into two.

The rust problem appears to be on the surface only but it's very difficult to tell with only photos. A few photos of the complete bike would be helpful.

It appears the bike was ridden either through a few wet winters with salted roads or stored outside near the ocean. WD40 may help with freeing nuts and bolts but not as a cure for the rusting. Cleaning and replacement of some fasteners may be necessary.

As a safety point, I would take a careful look at the wheel rims. You will have to remove tire and tube and pay particular attention to the area around the valve stem. We have all seen TA wheels that looked OK on the outside only to find very heavy corrosion on the inside with almost no metal left in some areas.
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Old 04-10-2013, 04:48 PM   #14541
csustewy
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Location: back in Denver
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CDI's and octane ratings

Point of clarification needed to make sure we're all talking about apples...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRBaron View Post
I'm using those CDIs [on my '87] too and I only run 98 octane [unless I need fuel and there is none of the good stuff].
As I understand it higher octane fuel can be compressed more before it detonates, so you can change the ignition timing for more compression before detonation if you run higher octane fuel.
So if you run standard 91 then you don't really want that advanced timing.
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ravelv View Post
:)

Another one is ignition advance- stock CDI's have it for 91 fuel, which I cannot even get here... Mostly we have 95 and 98. These aftermarket CDI's allow to use normally also 95-98.
When you say you are running 98 octane fuels, how is the octane measured? It may not be so different from the 93 (or 91 at elevation) available in the USA and Canada. Additionally, it may be on a different scale than the 91 that the stock CDI's are claimed to control.

My apologies for the Wikipedia reference, but check out the explanation of measurement techniques as well as country specific differences at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

Quote:
Originally Posted by wikipedia excerpt

Anti-Knock Index (AKI)
In most countries, including Australia and all of those in Europe, the "headline" octane rating shown on the pump is the RON, but in Canada, the United States, Brazil, and some other countries, the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI, and often written on pumps as (R+M)/2). It may also sometimes be called the Pump Octane Number (PON).

Difference between RON and AKI
Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, the octane rating shown in Canada and the United States is 4 to 5 points lower than the rating shown elsewhere in the world for the same fuel. See the table in the following section for a comparison.
Based on the wikipedia article, it seems that Australian fuels are listed with the RON measurement, meaning that a 95 or a 98 fuel in Australia would be similar to a 91 to 93 fuel in the states

DISCLAIMER: I don't know a thing about ignition curves, detonation, pre-detonation, octane ratings, or otherwise. Everything I know came from an open source website. But it does seem like fuel differences between countries may not fully explain the differences...
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:29 PM   #14542
Ladder106
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....and it gets even more muddled when you start throwing ethanol into the mix. The only fuel you can get (save race fuel) in California is 10% ethanol.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:12 PM   #14543
TRBaron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csustewy View Post
Point of clarification needed to make sure we're all talking about apples...





When you say you are running 98 octane fuels, how is the octane measured? It may not be so different from the 93 (or 91 at elevation) available in the USA and Canada. Additionally, it may be on a different scale than the 91 that the stock CDI's are claimed to control.

My apologies for the Wikipedia reference, but check out the explanation of measurement techniques as well as country specific differences at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating



Based on the wikipedia article, it seems that Australian fuels are listed with the RON measurement, meaning that a 95 or a 98 fuel in Australia would be similar to a 91 to 93 fuel in the states

DISCLAIMER: I don't know a thing about ignition curves, detonation, pre-detonation, octane ratings, or otherwise. Everything I know came from an open source website. But it does seem like fuel differences between countries may not fully explain the differences...

Anyone who uses "98 octane" is talking in RON, Its pretty much just the USA/Canada that doesn't use RON [they use AKI] and so far as I know they don't offer a 98 AKI fuel.
Additionally the CDIs aren't US made and I believe also relate to RON scale.

I'm in Australia and use 98 RON without ethanol, about 94 AKI
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:37 AM   #14544
ravelv
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When I assume 91 fuel, I assume local fuel, not US.
Never paid deep attention to methodology of measurments for fuel octane, but I assume that CDI's made in Germany are also made for EU fuel standards which also applies to my country which use same standards as most of EU countries I guess.
About that TA uses in stock CDI's for 91 octane was told me by authors of this updated CDI when asked questions about some design aspects.

Quote:
Originally Posted by csustewy View Post
.....
When you say you are running 98 octane fuels, how is the octane measured? It may not be so different from the 93 (or 91 at elevation) available in the USA and Canada. Additionally, it may be on a different scale than the 91 that the stock CDI's are claimed to control.
...
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:30 AM   #14545
JBMorse
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I think I discovered why my header pipe wasn't sealing to the muffler. I thought maybe the Supertrapp had the wrong sort of fitting on the end, but my headers seem to be missing a little pipe at the end, where the muffler slides over.

I compared the ends of the Supertrapp and a stock muffler and they both should slide over something, which is apparently rusted away or broken off. I will see if I can have a small piece welded to the headers for the muffler to slide on to.

Oh, and I don't know the purpose of the hole on the end of the header. I think somebody drilled it for a muffler clamp at one point. This poor Transalp!

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Old 04-11-2013, 11:12 AM   #14546
Z_HARSH
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Denver
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Getting some work done.

Well, I took a bunch more of pics of the parts I am selling, http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=877695, but in the process I figure maybe I should put one up of the project too.

I figure, go big or go home, so, here is beginning of the making of a fairing.

 photo P1000873_zps898d9371.jpg
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OHV AREAS ARE DISAPPEARING& WE NEED YOUR HELP
Go to COHVCO.ORG to purchase an SOS sticker and become a FRIEND OF COHVCO
Then post a picture of the sticker on your OHV and post it on COHVCO's Facebook page to show your support,
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:45 PM   #14547
happyclam
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Location: Trapped in Maryland
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Nice front end

Quote:
Originally Posted by Z_HARSH View Post
Well, I took a bunch more of pics of the parts I am selling, http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=877695, but in the process I figure maybe I should put one up of the project too.

I figure, go big or go home, so, here is beginning of the making of a fairing.

Hey Z, Is that a ta front wheel? What type forks?
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:00 PM   #14548
Ladder106
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Location: Davis, CA
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Eh? Airbox Madness

So....while doing spring service on the TA I got to the "pull the carbs" part.

Took off the air tube, loosened the airbox and removed the boot between the air tube and the airbox and found.....small bits of dirt. This is in the part of the airbox on the CLEAN side of the filter so it should NOT have been there at all.

On my last off-road ride, my foamy filter was dirty and I was short on time so I just put a clean K&N in and assumed all was well. It wasn't.

I should have taken a photo but was in anger management mode. It looked sort of like dust on a dark wood bookshelf it you haven't dusted for a few days. Not bad but there where is should not have been.

So, off with the inner fender, battery, selenoid, rear coils, CDIs etc and pulled the airbox. I could not see anything really obvious, the K&N seemed like it was sealing around the ring at the end of the filter but I did not use the foam ring that I normally install between the filter and the airbox end so it could have been from there.

Anyway, everything went into a big tub of degreaser and hot soapy water and got really well cleaned.

I then started looking around for cracks and places were dust could sneak in. I always wondered how the engine crankcase vent was sealed. It's the big hose that goes into the bottom of the airbox. The small box lets liquid separate out while gasses go back into the airbox. The two boxes are connected by a tube through the bottom of the airbox.

The small separator is attached to the airbox by melting the plastic pins on the bottom so I cut those off and pulled the two apart.

You will be relieved to know (as I was) that there is actually a seal between these two parts.





Put it all back together again sealing it up with RTV and using self taping screws instead of the Honda branding iron.



Went on upstream to inspect all the other bits and found everything else in good order except for the place where the rear carb boot is sealed into the air tube that runs between the frame rails. This area looked like the factory sealant was cracking and grabbing the boot and giving it a small twist showed signs of larger cracks and separation in the sealing.

So I removed the boot from the air tube and cleaned all of the original sealant off the tube and the carb boot. Sanded the boot to clean it all up and then used RTV sealant/adhesive to put it all back together again.



That was all I could see to do.

How the dirt got past the filter is still a bit of a mystery. There was no evidence of it in the air tube, just a bit in the airbox so I'm assuming it either passed through the K&N or got around it somehow.

I've always used a foam ring cut from an old foam filter between the filter and the airbox but left it out this last time...in a hurry I guess. I checked to be certain the K&N was seated onto the back of the airbox but possibly this area flexes some when riding....dunno.

I'll keep my eye on this area in the future to make certain nothing else is getting past. Putting my foam filter back in with the sealing ring.

Just thought you all would like to know.
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:44 PM   #14549
Jim Rowley
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Location: Black Forest, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBMorse View Post
I think I discovered why my header pipe wasn't sealing to the muffler. I thought maybe the Supertrapp had the wrong sort of fitting on the end, but my headers seem to be missing a little pipe at the end, where the muffler slides over.

I compared the ends of the Supertrapp and a stock muffler and they both should slide over something, which is apparently rusted away or broken off. I will see if I can have a small piece welded to the headers for the muffler to slide on to.

Oh, and I don't know the purpose of the hole on the end of the header. I think somebody drilled it for a muffler clamp at one point. This poor Transalp!

There's a packing that fills the space between the header and the muffler. Around $10 at Honda. In case you're in the market for a better shape header...
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Old 04-12-2013, 12:46 PM   #14550
COLORADO DIRT
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Zach, or "Z_HARSH" was banned for a while from ADVrider in the process of selling some stuff in the Flea Market after some people got all riled up about a skidplate, so he cannot comment or return any messages at the moment.

If you already messaged him about specific item please message me, his good and long time friend, with your email address and he will respond.

As for his front end:

 photo P1000873_zps898d9371.jpg

He tells it is off a 2001 KTM EXC 300 (forks, wheel, triple clamp, brake caliper...), he got a good deal on it and he had to turn down the center stem on the triple clamp and engineer it to the smaller diameter and a good friend with a machine shop just so happened to have several pieces of titanium laying around for him to use for that.

He is currently in the process of making a mold of the fairing and contemplating perhaps making a couple extra and eventually auctioning them off here on FleaBay or maybe ADVauction

COLORADO DIRT screwed with this post 04-12-2013 at 02:00 PM
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