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Old 03-15-2013, 10:50 AM   #3541
Gravel Seeker
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I agree.
People seriously need to have their brains scanned wanting up to $500 for a wheel...

I just payed 110 (140 shipped) for a 17" rear incl axle, cush drive, sprocket and disc (pretty worn) and 35 (62 shipped) for a 19" Pegaso front (no disc or axle) and 20 (33 shipped) speedo drive for the Pegaso wheel to use as a spacer.
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:47 PM   #3542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Years back I converted my F650ST (classic w/ 17" front & rear) to a GS by having the front rim relaced by Buchanans.

The best way to accomplish a low cost rework of the rear to 18" would be to use your hub and lace it to an 18" rear wheel.

That said, I have to ask why? I looked into it but there is no real gain to doing it. Is there some specific tire you are trying to run at 18" that you can't get in 17"? Or is it just for the cool factor?
Just trying to gain a little height in the rear and keep geometry. Its a little easier to find 18" tires but thats not what im going for so much. The main thing is that I want to run spoked wheels instead of the aluminum wheels that came stock with my bike. And since Im blowing all this cash on the suspension and lifting the bike and will be in the market for a new rear I might as well go to an 18" while im in the process. Makes sense to me anyways.
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:51 PM   #3543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
I'm in the US and they either wont ship or it will cost so much it wont be such a good deal afterwords. The 215 wheel is just overpriced for how trashed the wheel is and Im a jerk and dont want to pay that much for such crap. Haha thanks though!
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:55 PM   #3544
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I remembered you have the cast wheels right after I hit send....

Try these guys. I've had good luck finding BMW parts from them at a decent price: http://www.re-psycle.com/
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:04 PM   #3545
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On another note I got my forks in the mail the other day and they are beefy as all hell and Im dying to get my rear shock. The bike is painted Il post some pics soon and im picking up a front wheel and tire next weekend for 100 bucks with brake caliper and master. LIfe is good its friday!!

What are your thoughts on rebuilding the forks myself? I have done just about everything mechanical to cars and bikes and know that I can do it but is there a big advantage going to a suspension guy and having them rebuild and respring? For the money I figure I could get the tools and parts I need and save a bunch of cash for beer all while learning a bunch and in the future be able to do it all myself even easier? Am i thinking clearly or dreaming?

Also would special valves like racetech gold valves or any similar product make a huge difference and are they very hard to install?

Im a newb to a lot of this so sorry for all the questions
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:54 PM   #3546
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Will look ten times better once the suspension and wheels are on!


Those damn rubber nuts in the windscreen bracket tore apart so im waiting on some new ones to mount the windscreen. Its painted the same OD
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:07 PM   #3547
dwayne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnsafeHOTADVENTURE View Post
Just trying to gain a little height in the rear and keep geometry. Its a little easier to find 18" tires but thats not what im going for so much. The main thing is that I want to run spoked wheels instead of the aluminum wheels that came stock with my bike. And since Im blowing all this cash on the suspension and lifting the bike and will be in the market for a new rear I might as well go to an 18" while im in the process. Makes sense to me anyways.
You're not going to gain much height with an 18" vs 17". On the face of it, it looks like 1", but only a 1/2" that is below the axle. Even less, because typically the overall height of the tires really isn't all that diffrent because the sidwall is typically taller on a 17" tire than an 18".

Your other reasons...all well and good, but don't expect a noticable height change.

Usually there is worse selection for 18" DOTs than 17" DOTs. There is a better selection for agressive 18" DOTs.
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:34 PM   #3548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwayne View Post
You're not going to gain much height with an 18" vs 17". On the face of it, it looks like 1", but only a 1/2" that is below the axle. Even less, because typically the overall height of the tires really isn't all that diffrent because the sidwall is typically taller on a 17" tire than an 18".

Your other reasons...all well and good, but don't expect a noticable height change.

Usually there is worse selection for 18" DOTs than 17" DOTs. There is a better selection for agressive 18" DOTs.
Just about every tire I would like to use comes in an 18 and every one of them are either the same height or taller in some situations than the 17" version. So an 18" wheel with tire will just about always be taller than a 17" with tire. Im a little confused here?

Also Im putting yz forks on my gs i would say it should be obvious that im looking for aggressive DOTs.

UnsafeHOTADVENTURE screwed with this post 03-15-2013 at 05:56 PM
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:55 PM   #3549
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love the green!
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Old 03-16-2013, 09:16 AM   #3550
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i like the color!
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:13 PM   #3551
xt500nz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnsafeHOTADVENTURE View Post
On another note I got my forks in the mail the other day and they are beefy as all hell and Im dying to get my rear shock. The bike is painted Il post some pics soon and im picking up a front wheel and tire next weekend for 100 bucks with brake caliper and master. LIfe is good its friday!!

What are your thoughts on rebuilding the forks myself? I have done just about everything mechanical to cars and bikes and know that I can do it but is there a big advantage going to a suspension guy and having them rebuild and respring? For the money I figure I could get the tools and parts I need and save a bunch of cash for beer all while learning a bunch and in the future be able to do it all myself even easier? Am i thinking clearly or dreaming?

Also would special valves like racetech gold valves or any similar product make a huge difference and are they very hard to install?

Im a newb to a lot of this so sorry for all the questions
g'day, i revalved 46mm yz forks two years ago . brake dive is the problem you will get with home tuning. a shop can sort this out ,but could take them a few try's to get it about right. i was about to revalve for a 3rd time to settle for a offroad,onroad combo, that give's a plush feel,but firm's up progresively,and eliminates brake dive.....but ive busted my foot.if you want to learn from scratch like i have,buy racetech's suspension bible. goldvalve's are awesome. it's a journey, but rewarding and enjoyable to.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:55 PM   #3552
dwayne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnsafeHOTADVENTURE View Post
Just about every tire I would like to use comes in an 18 and every one of them are either the same height or taller in some situations than the 17" version. So an 18" wheel with tire will just about always be taller than a 17" with tire. Im a little confused here?

Also Im putting yz forks on my gs i would say it should be obvious that im looking for aggressive DOTs.
If the tire is the same height (overall, installed) you will not see any Increase in ride height, no matter what wheel diameter you have.

Selection is a major reason to go to an 18".
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:50 PM   #3553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwayne View Post
If the tire is the same height (overall, installed) you will not see any Increase in ride height, no matter what wheel diameter you have.

Selection is a major reason to go to an 18".
Still confused...

If a 17" tire is sized at 140/80/17 then its height is 80mm from the lip of the rim to the top of the tire.

If an 18" tire is sized at 140/80/18 then its height is 80mm from the lip of the rim to the top of the tire.

So the 18" tire is an inch larger overall every time.

Am I looking at tire sizes all wrong?
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:00 AM   #3554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xt500nz View Post
g'day, i revalved 46mm yz forks two years ago . brake dive is the problem you will get with home tuning. a shop can sort this out ,but could take them a few try's to get it about right. i was about to revalve for a 3rd time to settle for a offroad,onroad combo, that give's a plush feel,but firm's up progresively,and eliminates brake dive.....but ive busted my foot.if you want to learn from scratch like i have,buy racetech's suspension bible. goldvalve's are awesome. it's a journey, but rewarding and enjoyable to.
Thanks for the insight. I read that most of the fine tuning is done with the amount of fork oil used. Of course this is after you find the right spring rate and oil weight but I was sort of hoping to get a decent base line from all the people who have already done the swap.
I weigh about 165 and my bike is only slightly lighter than stock I will remove the abs, iv ditched a few bits of plastic here and there and have already gone with a ballistic battery which weighs about 2lbs. From what I have read so far Im thinking something like .50 or .49 springs.
What oil weights are you all running? If i can get those two questions close to answered I figure I will just put the least amount of oil possible and then just fill accordingly to do the fine adjustments. What else is there to tuning the forks? There must be some people on here who know what they are doing with the fine adjustments. Tell me your secrets!
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:29 AM   #3555
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The changes done are in shims, and will make a big difference, one shim only was changed on the one I have seen

It is a mistake to think a dive problem can be resolved with fluid weight and level alone
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