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Old 05-30-2013, 05:28 PM   #3796
Gangplank
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I also shortened mine by 1"
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:21 PM   #3797
WayneC1
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I have just updated the notes pdf to correct some of the numbers in it for the STD GS and the travel of the YZ plus a few other items

The shortening for the Dakar is 25mm and the extra which is left in the YZ fork is taken up by the upper yoke mounting higher

I have also added a YZ fork rebuild pdf, it is a work in progress which could use some more input from those with 48 mm forks
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:44 PM   #3798
racergirl479
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I ordered custom springs that were 25 mm shorter than stock, I have 46 mm forks. I'll add a spacer, and set them a tad higher in the clamp. Should work.

I'm toying with what to do with the wheel and brake. I want to use the BMW stuff but don't wanna pay $275 for an axle. What other options are out there?
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:54 PM   #3799
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Is it the ABS you want to keep?

Otherwise you should just go with the Yammie wheel and front brake. That stuff is cheap cheap cheap on Ebay and you can buy one right angle fitting to adapt the BMW switchgear/master cylinder to the Yammie brake line.

If you want to keep the ABS and use the BMW wheel/front brake then I don't see any way around spending a lot of dosh on the process.

P.S. your photo link is shitey.
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Old 05-31-2013, 03:16 AM   #3800
Lupin 3rd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbySands View Post
Maybe I'm not sure what Marisa is asking here, but I think she'd should be concerned about this:

GS Dakar YZ Forks
Length - Top of upper yoke to axle center

GS 825 mm
Dakar 890 mm
YZ 925 mm

If the static sag is set up properly on both forks, I think distance of top yoke to centre of axle is the key, no?
You're probably right here, I must have mis-read the question. Looking at my notes I also plan to buy 1" (2.5mm) shorter springs, put in a 1" spacer and slide up the forks as needed.
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Old 05-31-2013, 03:38 AM   #3801
Lupin 3rd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racergirl479 View Post
I'm toying with what to do with the wheel and brake. I want to use the BMW stuff but don't wanna pay $275 for an axle. What other options are out there?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbySands View Post
Is it the ABS you want to keep?
If you want to keep the ABS and use the BMW wheel/front brake then I don't see any way around spending a lot of dosh on the process.

P.S. your photo link is shitey.
What he said.

Either get the Hawk Engineering kit (axle, caliper mount, etc...) and keep the stock BMW bits, or you'll need to find a way to fabricate and mount an abs ring to the Yamaha wheel.

Some people don't mind dropping the ABS, while others do. I think it's a personal preference, though I am in the latter camp, that's why it's taken me a while to swap the forks: I'm still looking into ways of keeping the ABS.

If you don't want/need the ABS, the easiest thing is to drop the BMW parts, get a Yamaha wheel and then decide what you need from the front brake:
  1. stock 250mm YZ/WR dirt rotor
  2. oversize 270/300/320(?) mm rotor (from ebay) with bracket
  3. WR250X (Sumo) 300mm rotor (same size as F650GS stock) with bracket and master (what I did).
I like to use stock parts as much as possible, and was lucky enough to find the caliper + mount + line + master on eBay for cheap. Other wise I would have gotten a 270 or 300 over size rotor. Without the ABS it might actually be a good thing to lose a little braking power on the front to reduce the risk of locking the wheel.
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:42 AM   #3802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbySands View Post
If the static sag is set up properly on both forks, I think distance of top yoke to centre of axle is the key, no?
YZ top yoke is thicker/taller than Dakar top yoke. So that takes up some of the extra distance.

House of Horsepower shortened my forks about an inch, and I run them a little bit high in the clamps to make the bike turn a little better. I may drop them back down, since the bike gets a little squirrely on the highway at 75-80 MPH.
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:50 AM   #3803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post
YZ top yoke is thicker/taller than Dakar top yoke. So that takes up some of the extra distance.

House of Horsepower shortened my forks about an inch, and I run them a little bit high in the clamps to make the bike turn a little better. I may drop them back down, since the bike gets a little squirrely on the highway at 75-80 MPH.
What tire are you running on the front. If it is a TKC 80 that squirly-ness may never go away. I've had 3 of them act terribly at highway speeds. Others ok. Not using them anymore b/c of that.
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:00 AM   #3804
racergirl479
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I am NOT keeping the abs... I hate it. and its a pain in the a** off road (doesn't stay off)...

Plus, if I get rid of the ABS and move my battery to the ABS tray, maybe it will help with the top heaviness of the bike?

I would like to keep the bmw wheel and brake however... Think of it this way.. the yz brake is made for a bike that's oh... 250lbs... the bmw is what 450? plus me... and my gear on trips... I want to stick with the bmw wheel and brake.

My photos link works for me... ? What is it doing for yall?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbySands View Post
Is it the ABS you want to keep?

Otherwise you should just go with the Yammie wheel and front brake. That stuff is cheap cheap cheap on Ebay and you can buy one right angle fitting to adapt the BMW switchgear/master cylinder to the Yammie brake line.

If you want to keep the ABS and use the BMW wheel/front brake then I don't see any way around spending a lot of dosh on the process.

P.S. your photo link is shitey.
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:07 AM   #3805
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Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
What tire are you running on the front. If it is a TKC 80 that squirly-ness may never go away. I've had 3 of them act terribly at highway speeds. Others ok. Not using them anymore b/c of that.
It's happened with a couple of different tires, including a Kenda 761. I've got an MT21 on right now, so I just ride a little slower on the highway.
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:11 AM   #3806
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I have the Kenda 270's and LOVE them. They have about 5k miles on them now... the front is only now starting to show wear and the rear is about half gone... plus they are el cheapo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post
It's happened with a couple of different tires, including a Kenda 761. I've got an MT21 on right now, so I just ride a little slower on the highway.
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:14 AM   #3807
Gangplank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racergirl479 View Post
I am NOT keeping the abs... I hate it. and its a pain in the a** off road (doesn't stay off)...

Plus, if I get rid of the ABS and move my battery to the ABS tray, maybe it will help with the top heaviness of the bike?

I would like to keep the bmw wheel and brake however... Think of it this way.. the yz brake is made for a bike that's oh... 250lbs... the bmw is what 450? plus me... and my gear on trips... I want to stick with the bmw wheel and brake.

My photos link works for me... ? What is it doing for yall?
The brake caliper on the YZ is every bit as good or better than the BMW brake caliper. No reason to keep the BMW vs. YZ caliper.

If you want better braking then get an oversized supermoto rotor. That is what I did. I went with an EBC Supermoto Rotor and brake caliper relocation bracket. Cost about $185.

I ordered the SM6028C and received the SM6017C which fit my bike. Others have had issues getting the right EBC kit to fit so make sure it matches your tire, forks and bike year.

BMW rotor is 300mm
EBC SM is Supermoto rotor is 320mm = better braking power for heavier bike than YZ and even BMW (stock BMW braking is just ok anyway so I went bigger)
EBC OS is over size rotor is 280mm = bigger than YZ which is 250mm and smaller than the BMW at 300 but the caliper from the YZ is probably better. It is the middle ground and some folks using the YZ 250mm say it is adequate so this is probably good too.
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:18 AM   #3808
Gangplank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post
It's happened with a couple of different tires, including a Kenda 761. I've got an MT21 on right now, so I just ride a little slower on the highway.

Yep then raising the front by putting the tubes back down through the triple with stabilize it at faster speeds. Will turn in a little less quickly but give better feel cornering as well.


Here are my notes from my pre-build doc that I did gathering info:

Geometry Adjustments The YZ SHB adjustment system means the yoke mounts higher than the BMW top yoke by around 12.5mm (1/2”) or more dependent on the year YZ forks and post length. This can take up 1/2” or more of the longer fork length.

To maintain the proper geometry the shop doing the work is adding a spacer to shorten the length of travel by 1”. If you’re on a stock GS it would be 60mm lower, for the Dakar ride height it is 25mm = 1”.

You can raise the fork tubes up through the triples to make the ride height right for you. What effect? Raising the forks up through the top triple makes the bike’s front end lower, which makes it turn quicker but can also make it feel twitchy. If it feels twitchy drop the forks back through the triple 5mm and test ride. If it runs wide or turns in on corner entry or corner exit then play with the front and rear ride height. Drop it down or raise it up and see what effect it has. When you get it right you will feel it.
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:29 AM   #3809
WayneC1
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On a stock Dakar in good condition the front TKC80 is solid and stable to max speed on all surfaces, if there is instablity look elsewhere for the problem
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:34 AM   #3810
Gangplank
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On a stock Dakar in good condition the front TKC80 is solid and stable to max speed on all surfaces, if there is instablity look elsewhere for the problem
I hear ya but in my experience TKC80's have some quality control issues. My personal experience is about every 3rd tire I buy in that model for the front has a wobble at speed.

Bought a tire. Started on a trip. Wobbled like mad at 70 mph. Thought WTF?
Went back to the shop and got a new TKC80. Installed. Same shop, same person. Worked great.
Next set. Worked great.
Next set. Another bad front tire. Returned it again and replacement worked fine.

Every other brand tire I run works fine. Some of the TKC80's in 90/90-21 have issues at speed. Others have reported the same problem.
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