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Old 11-30-2009, 04:57 AM   #826
john_aero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc mad
john aero, i got the kit off ebay, its a venhill kit, well when i say a kit it means i bough the banjo fittings and the hose seperatly form the same supplier
It's not a crimp together kit, i did look at those and considered them to be unsuitable for me. I bought a kit which screws together, the hose has two captive nuts with seals and the banjo fittings are threaded to accept them, simply fit the banjo fittings, attach the hose and tighten it all up. No issues other than a dodgy copper washer. The setup is very similar if not identical to the goodridge build a line system.

One advantage of this is that i can just order a new hose in the lengh i need (if i need to change it when the new fork bits arrive)

On the subject of fork bits, i've been emailing richard at hoh pretty much all week and feel like i'm hounding the guy, but he's come through. Not only has he recomended the correct weight springs, he's also recomended that i lower the front end by and inch. Essentially my setup will be a carbon copy of rad's setup.

But to top it off he's also going to supply the valve stacks to suit my weight, all i have to do is fit em to the base valves. To say I owe the man a beer or three is an understatement.

For comparison i emailed a company in the uk to see if i could get the springs done over here, i got a respone to phone them which i did and left my number, no respone since then. If anyone in the uk wants progressive springs, go to house of horespower


Great, that's now a 12k service / major teardown and fork rebuild in the works

Good job i get a few days off over christmas to do it all in.


Is there anything that it'd be prudent to replace while i've got the forks in bits
nice one will have to look into this when doing few more jobs that needs brake lines
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Old 12-01-2009, 02:43 AM   #827
tmotten
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What's the go with Yamaha's bottom bearing removal technique. I started using a chisel to knock it off the bottom triple clamp, but a bit of the bearing edge came off. So I looked at the manual for the YZ and it says to pry it off.

Can't see that being a good thing for the aluminium, especially considering how often the BM needs bearings replaced.
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Old 12-01-2009, 03:14 AM   #828
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I've got the TT risers and ABS/ Hazard switch and noticed how the bolts don't engage for much more than 5mm. So I thought I might need some longer bolts, but this means that the plastic ABS/Hazard bracket gets used as washers. This doesn't sound like a good idea, or am I just paranoid?
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Old 12-01-2009, 04:24 AM   #829
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I cheated & used a bearing separator & hydraulic press to remove the SH Bearing, really is best done with a proper puller rather than bashing at it. It helps having access to a pro workshop at times.

As for the need for replacements, get good seals in place & they should not need replacement so often

As for the TT method on the handlebar clamp bolts & using the ABS switch mount as a washer, that was why BMW made up the bolts with the 5mm threads in the top. Use stainless bolts, I used steel & they rusted & looked terrible

I solved all that by using an aftermarket switch for heated grips mounted on the LHS where I could get at it. dont have ABS but would do the same for it
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:42 AM   #830
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ok ok now here simple one

what angle do your forks go to? i am looking for the origtinal forks so i can set my yammys to turn the same way. at the moment they turn way to far around and i have drilled and tapped the stops on the bottom tripple clam an fitten 2 bolts so i can adjest it

even the distance the handle bar is from a fixed point when turned left or right
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Old 12-01-2009, 03:31 PM   #831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_aero
ok ok now here simple one

what angle do your forks go to? i am looking for the origtinal forks so i can set my yammys to turn the same way. at the moment they turn way to far around and i have drilled and tapped the stops on the bottom tripple clam an fitten 2 bolts so i can adjest it

even the distance the handle bar is from a fixed point when turned left or right
Hmmm.... I am experiencing the opposite, the lower triple clamp hits the upper radiator bracket few degrees before full lock on the Funduro, I think I will have to sacrifice those degrees of turning radie for better suspension
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Old 12-01-2009, 03:45 PM   #832
WayneC1
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The BMW workshop manual specifies there is 60 degrees of turn lock to lock.

It is in the rather complicated steering head adjustment section of the manual

Have never checked it but should be easy enough to measure

Those who have fitted KTM forks have noted the reduced steering lock but they are using yokes with only 18mm of offset

I have recently accurately measured the BMW offset at 21mm
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Old 12-01-2009, 03:49 PM   #833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notmybikemodelname
All Yamaha, and it works absolutely stellar

Notmybikemodel,

Wow. I spent an hour trying to read this thread (did not finish) but I still don't understand if you have to buy those brake parts or not. Most people say you do. They are $$$.

Just wondering if you do any shop work for stuff like you said your bike has.

I looked on eBay for the forks, but didn't see anything right now. How much $$$? have you spent if you don't mind me asking. Did you replace the rear shock?

I live in Corona off Green River.
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:04 PM   #834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW Iceland
Hmmm.... I am experiencing the opposite, the lower triple clamp hits the upper radiator bracket few degrees before full lock on the Funduro, I think I will have to sacrifice those degrees of turning radie for better suspension
i just trimmed the plastic protector in front of the rad to let the forks take full lock.

now i found that it turns way too much so i have put in 2 adjusters so i want to get the original swing so i can set mine up the same
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:05 PM   #835
john_aero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustRat6650
Notmybikemodel,

Wow. I spent an hour trying to read this thread (did not finish) but I still don't understand if you have to buy those brake parts or not. Most people say you do. They are $$$.

Just wondering if you do any shop work for stuff like you said your bike has.

I looked on eBay for the forks, but didn't see anything right now. How much $$$? have you spent if you don't mind me asking. Did you replace the rear shock?

I live in Corona off Green River.
i would got for the brake parts they sell here if you have the cash.

i had make my own up as did not have the cash at the time, also my forks are the larger 48mm forks so the spacing is different and not 100% sure if the calliper bracket would fit.
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Old 12-02-2009, 06:36 AM   #836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_aero
i would got for the brake parts they sell here if you have the cash.

i had make my own up as did not have the cash at the time, also my forks are the larger 48mm forks so the spacing is different and not 100% sure if the calliper bracket would fit.

I hope they fit... I ordered the kit, with hopes of putting 2005 yamaha front end on my GS.
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:44 AM   #837
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RC,

any luck with those drawings mate?
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Old 12-02-2009, 08:55 AM   #838
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Steering Stabilizer

Does the YZ setup make a bolt on steering stabilizer setup easier on the Dakar?

Anybody tried this?
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Old 12-02-2009, 10:41 AM   #839
john_aero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_aero
ok ok now here simple one

what angle do your forks go to? i am looking for the origtinal forks so i can set my yammys to turn the same way. at the moment they turn way to far around and i have drilled and tapped the stops on the bottom tripple clam an fitten 2 bolts so i can adjest it

even the distance the handle bar is from a fixed point when turned left or right
any takers
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Old 12-02-2009, 10:42 AM   #840
john_aero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMacW650
Does the YZ setup make a bolt on steering stabilizer setup easier on the Dakar?

Anybody tried this?
i have a seperte threak on this and the answer is it would be difficult as you have to mod the set up for fit a non standard bike
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