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Old 12-05-2009, 04:28 AM   #886
komatias
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Will check and report back.


Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1
Kpmatias

This begs the question, since we have a bearing pressed onto a steel shaft which is in turn pressed into an alloy yoke what tolerances should correctly be applied to the interfernce fit on each

In addition surely there is scope & perhaps good reason to allow a slightly different tolerance on the bearing seat to avoid difficulties with damage to the yoke ?
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Old 12-05-2009, 04:48 AM   #887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
Am I the only one that is having a shitter of a time getting the bottom bearing back on? I've used the same method as the BM one with a PVC pipe and a mallet but no joy. Also heated up the bearing but still no joy. Can't get it closer than 10mm.

I've done some damage trying to get it back off, so I'll get another setup at some point for when this bearing dies. Got the triple in the freezer now, but I'm not that hopeful.

Getting the old one off was just as bad. Man those bearings are tight. B
ought an seperator but couldn't use it because of the steering stops.
you need to heat the bearing up before putting it on. use hair dryer or heat gun then it will slip right on and needs gentle tap to seat it on the bottom
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Old 12-05-2009, 06:30 AM   #888
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Or you can just watch ebay and wait for someone to sell a bike with the TT kit already installed.

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Old 12-05-2009, 08:09 AM   #889
rc mad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW Iceland
The 2" lowering link for Funduro is 69mm center to center, should be perfect if you are lifting the rear by 2"

Cheers
I'm now back to looking at doing it this way as getting a set of links made is going to be very expensive to do according to the company i have tried, one off runs always are. I have got one more company / friend to try but seeing as he was the one who made the axle for free i don't want to take advantage of him too much.

I've emailed koubalink to see if he can do the links i need and i'm also trying to track down a set of 2 inch links from a funduro. It'll mean i can't touch the floor if i fit the 2 inch links tho,which may be entertaining

Does anyone know where i can get a set of motorcycle platform boots
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Old 12-05-2009, 11:59 AM   #890
komatias
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There are already aftermarket lifting links available. They cost alot more than lowering links though. Have a look on ebay.de for F650 hocherlegung there is a company called muzi that makes them.
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Old 12-05-2009, 01:55 PM   #891
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+1, I'd suggest using a heat gun and heat around the bearing until it seats.
a hair dryer prob wont produce enuf heat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by john_aero
you need to heat the bearing up before putting it on. use hair dryer or heat gun then it will slip right on and needs gentle tap to seat it on the bottom
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Old 12-05-2009, 02:50 PM   #892
rc mad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by komatias
There are already aftermarket lifting links available. They cost alot more than lowering links though. Have a look on ebay.de for F650 hocherlegung there is a company called muzi that makes them.

jeez that's damn expensive. I think those will probablly be a last resort

It's not a critical i must do it now mod so if i have to i'll wait until i find something at the right price
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Old 12-05-2009, 03:31 PM   #893
tmotten
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Thanks guys. Got the triple in the freezer overnight now. Hopefully it'll work. Used the heat gun yesterday on the bearing but still couldn't go on. Let hope the freezer method work, otherwise I'll be looking for hydraulic gear.

Couldn't help but wonder about the shaft on the clamp fitting either. Amazing how some of this stuff is assembled.
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Old 12-05-2009, 06:46 PM   #894
tmotten
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Got to about 3mm but won't go further and can't get the bloody thing back off without destroying something. So would someone be able to link a press tool please? I've got to do another bike after this one, and definately won't be able to finish until January now. Bloody hope the mod is worth the effort.

The right separator would be appreciated as well. Don't mind buying the right tools if I have to do a few of them. The distance between the steering stops are only 60mm so the common type won't fit.

tmotten screwed with this post 12-05-2009 at 06:52 PM
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Old 12-05-2009, 07:20 PM   #895
mpanther
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When i did the last set of bearings for my GL650, I went to home depot with the triple and lower bearing and bought a piece of steel pipe and end cap that could fit over the stem but land solidly on the inner race of the bearing, plus was long enough to not hit the top of the stem when the bearing was pressed all the way on. then used a standard 12 ton standing press to push it down. almost every shop has one. I'm sure a local auto or bike shop would do it for free($10 to the tech) or cheaply if you had all the stuff ready to use.

You could even build a press out of some angle iron, 8 hard bolts and a cheap bottle jack. just make one that "lays on its back" and use the floor.

or there is harbor freight:
6ton w/ 9" working clearance, $90
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4711

12ton w/ 28" working clearance, $140
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=33497

But I bet even four times to a good local shop with the pipe setup would be cheaper.
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Old 12-05-2009, 08:13 PM   #896
tmotten
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Got aggressive and stuck it in my hydraulic pipe bender with the bearing seperator as a brace. It went on, but I scratched the crap out of the steering shaft with the seperator. Guess I'll be getting a new bottom yoke to replace this one when the bearings wear.
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Old 12-06-2009, 01:28 AM   #897
komatias
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Hi guys,

homemade press plans can be found here:

http://blog.makezine.com/archive/200...tonne_hyd.html


I did something very similar using aluminium sections and a scissor jack. To remove the bearings you have to press the axle out. place a piece of pipe under the lower clamp that allows the axle to pass through, this way you will not bend the yokes.

To install the new bearing, its best to press the stem back in. Do not try and hammer it. I used a aluminium pipe that was longer than the stem. It went over the stem and pressed down on the lower yoke. Similarly with the bearing, but this time I used the old race, upside down to push the new bearing in. It is worth opening the old bearings diameter out a bit so it doesnt interfere.

KTM riders do this all the time, when you have installed the ktm dust cap on the top, you should at least get more miles out of the bearings.
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Old 12-06-2009, 03:36 AM   #898
tmotten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by komatias
To remove the bearings you have to press the axle out. place a piece of pipe under the lower clamp that allows the axle to pass through, this way you will not bend the yokes
You're kidding, right? You're saying to pull the whole shaft of the bottom triple clamp to remove a bearing? That can't be right.

Good one on the press though. I ended up bolting a U-section thing to my bender. Than used a PVC pipe on the bearing to push it on.



Used this bender to bend a crash bar.
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Old 12-06-2009, 05:31 AM   #899
komatias
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Not kidding at all. Ask any KTM diy'er....
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Old 12-06-2009, 05:49 AM   #900
BMW Iceland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by komatias
Hi guys,

homemade press plans can be found here:

http://blog.makezine.com/archive/200...tonne_hyd.html


I did something very similar using aluminium sections and a scissor jack. To remove the bearings you have to press the axle out. place a piece of pipe under the lower clamp that allows the axle to pass through, this way you will not bend the yokes.

To install the new bearing, its best to press the stem back in. Do not try and hammer it. I used a aluminium pipe that was longer than the stem. It went over the stem and pressed down on the lower yoke. Similarly with the bearing, but this time I used the old race, upside down to push the new bearing in. It is worth opening the old bearings diameter out a bit so it doesnt interfere.

KTM riders do this all the time, when you have installed the ktm dust cap on the top, you should at least get more miles out of the bearings.
If you do not have access to a press, there is an easy solution, I usually just remove the rollers from the race, make a small cut in the race with my Dremel and give it a whack with hammer and chissel, the race usually snaps after one or two blowes, after that you can just slide it off with your fingers
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