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Old 12-06-2009, 11:58 AM   #901
wetrock
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Wicked I want your take-off forks.

Ive got an 02 Dakar with the old, scary fork design that spontaneously spits off the front wheel. I'd like to swap out to the newer ones with beefier lugs for peace of mind. So, if any of you who are doing the fork conversion want to offload your old forks, send me a PM.

I gotta admit, the more I look through this thread the more appealing those Yamaha forks are looking.
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Old 12-06-2009, 01:21 PM   #902
tmotten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW Iceland
If you do not have access to a press, there is an easy solution, I usually just remove the rollers from the race, make a small cut in the race with my Dremel and give it a whack with hammer and chissel, the race usually snaps after one or two blowes, after that you can just slide it off with your fingers
Ya, that didn't work for me either. Hence the frustration.... and the associated damage.
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:27 AM   #903
tmotten
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Just put the ignition bracket on it and can't help but think how it's a fair amount of weight for a little 5mm bolt. Has anyone done it a bit differently?
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:07 AM   #904
BMW Iceland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
Just put the ignition bracket on it and can't help but think how it's a fair amount of weight for a little 5mm bolt. Has anyone done it a bit differently?
My ignition bracket is held by a 6mm bolt and it sits on a ledge appr. 25x10mm



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Old 12-07-2009, 09:53 AM   #905
rc mad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
Just put the ignition bracket on it and can't help but think how it's a fair amount of weight for a little 5mm bolt. Has anyone done it a bit differently?
I thought the same but there's really no where else to mount it off, i'm going to look at it again when i take the forks apart to revalve them.
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Old 12-07-2009, 10:04 AM   #906
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nice set up. have plastic one made up but need do something same as yours to make it more sturdy

what about the toutatech set up for the ignition lock? be nice way to go
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Old 12-07-2009, 10:47 AM   #907
BMW Iceland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_aero
nice set up. have plastic one made up but need do something same as yours to make it more sturdy

what about the toutatech set up for the ignition lock? be nice way to go
Nice, I made mine of 80x10mm aluminum, I sank it over the numberplate fastener to seat it perfectly on the "ledge"

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Old 12-07-2009, 11:41 AM   #908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW Iceland
Nice, I made mine of 80x10mm aluminum, I sank it over the numberplate fastener to seat it perfectly on the "leadge"
yours looks well. i located mine in same spot but i want to secure it a bit more to the forks so the steering lock will be more secure
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:35 PM   #909
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Same. Reckon the momentary forces are really too much for the lock to be of any use. I'm thinking maybe welding a bracket to the clamp top and bottom. It's a shame the unit is steel.

What about using an ignition from another bike. I know the DRZ is light, but hasn't got the dust slide. And than you're stuck with 2 different keys. Dunno if you can re-key those things.

How do those TT ones mount, and where did you find them?

I'm not fussed about the lock as much as I'd like it to stay on. Think 10000km of African corrugated roads.
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Old 12-07-2009, 03:42 PM   #910
WayneC1
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TT are very particular on selling spares only to those who have purchased the full kit, one or two have commented on it elsewhere

Interesting on the TT setup that they dont use 1 way bolts so the assembly looks like you could unbolt it anyway. I noticed their Yoke uses 8mm bolts to attach the bracket

A piece of U Channel may be more robust for the mount, that is the direction I will be heading. With a little enginuity the bolts should be able to be hidden & unable to be accessed to unscrew the assembly
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Old 12-07-2009, 05:16 PM   #911
tmotten
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What are you thinking to bolt it to though? The same 5mm hole?

The whole thing including spacers and bracket (all alloy though) came in at 405 grams. So with the plastic ignition switch barrel it'll probably be a good half kilo. Fair bit of weight.

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Old 12-07-2009, 06:14 PM   #912
WayneC1
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I am going down the KTM path & the SX Yoke has 3 x 6mm holes to mount to on the forward face of the yoke

The U Chn I will use is 40x50x6mm which I have from another project

The height of 40mm is just right for the lock height & means the lock can be supported at the top & bottom & the bolts attaching the lock to the bracket will be on the lower side of the U channel

Looking at the Yamaha yoke I would be tempted to tap 2 6mm holes into the forward face & put clips on the bolts under the yoke for security

Drilling & tapping the yoke may be frowned on but that is what KTM have done with their yoke
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:06 PM   #913
tmotten
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I was thinking along the same lines. Would look better than welding as well.
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Old 12-07-2009, 10:35 PM   #914
dump-a-thump
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i'm having trouble getting the locking bolt for the steering lock close enough to engage worth a crap (I'm on the WP/ KTM set-up). A healthy dremel session will be in order to get it to work.

If you fill in your allen heads with JB weld or even bondo, it makes them quite difficult to spin free while in the field, yet a few minutes with the proper punches will clean them out in the shop, if you need to adjust or service the unit. Not a perfect solution, but it is a deterent to would-be-thieves.
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Old 12-08-2009, 02:38 PM   #915
tmotten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW Iceland
What year is that yoke? I've got a 99 and it's curved up the front which will make it harder to fabricate anything.

Also, I guess everyone ditched the plastic cover that was bolted to the OEM bottom yoke? Not sure what that was for. Dust probably.
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