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Old 05-28-2014, 06:55 PM   #1
Arrowv OP
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'12 KLX250S Won't Start After Dynojet Install

I am frustrated at this point... Yesterday I installed the 2152 Dynojet kit for my 2012 KLX250s. Put the bike back together and it won't start. I called Dynojet and he noted that nothing with their kit would affect whether the bike starts or not... meaning I screwed up somewhere in putting everything back in.

Fair enough... so I took everything apart again this morning and still no luck. Tried again this evening and same result. no start.

The electric start goes and goes, but the bike wont kick over. I got a new plug, checked to make sure the plug is making a spark.

On my last time I took the carb apart, I noticed a small hold in the diaphram next to the needle hole. I make sure the plastic cap for the needle did not block the hole. Also, I am not sure if the hole needs to be on the side of the engine or airbox, but put it towards the engine. Is that correct???

I checked to make sure I installed the correct main in the right location and turned the fuel mixture screw 3 turns out.

I live in Denver and got jet settings from Dynojet for 6,000-9,000SF. I have the snorkel removed on the bike and a DG O-series pipe.

They noted my settings should be #3 clip from top on the needle, DJ120 main jet and 3 turns out on the fuel mixture.

This process has lead me to either the diaphram/slide or float issue from my work putting it back together. Any and all advice would be well received. I am so burned out on taking the bike apart, but if I can get some advice, I'll do it again before giving up and going to the shop.

Thanks!
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:19 PM   #2
KC-10ENG
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Will it run if you spray a little bit of gas in the carb? That will verify spark and isolate to fuel.

I am sure that the gas is turned on, and hooked up correctly.

Does the fuel petcock on that bike have a vacuum line that needs to be hooked up?

I had a KLX 331 but I have not worked on one in a while.
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:33 PM   #3
Arrowv OP
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Yes

I sprayed starter fluid in the carb and nothing. What does that mean? Gas is on and all tubes are connected.
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:37 AM   #4
Lucky62
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Air/Fuel/Spark

Sounds like possible electrical issue....if it's not even trying, will that bike spin the engine with the kill switch on? Some do, some don't, I'm not suggesting you have it on, just saying that if it acts the same as when you DO have the kill switch on, it may indicate no spark.

Pull the spark plug and check for spark when you hit the starter.

Keep the faith, Gremlins usually only hang around for a short period.
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:32 AM   #5
Arrowv OP
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Originally Posted by Lucky62 View Post
Sounds like possible electrical issue....if it's not even trying, will that bike spin the engine with the kill switch on? Some do, some don't, I'm not suggesting you have it on, just saying that if it acts the same as when you DO have the kill switch on, it may indicate no spark.

Pull the spark plug and check for spark when you hit the starter.

Keep the faith, Gremlins usually only hang around for a short period.
Ok. I checked and I am getting a spark. The bike cranks but acts like it doesn't try to turn over. I tapped the side of the carb thinking the float was stuck and nothing. It honestly feels like something obvious I am missing, but I have checked and checked. No extra parts!
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:17 AM   #6
TNC
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When you unscrew the fuel bowl drain plug do you get gas flowing out the rubber overflow tube?
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:18 AM   #7
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When you unscrew the fuel bowl drain plug do you get gas flowing out the rubber overflow tube?
Yes, it comes right out.
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:44 AM   #8
Thebusdweller
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Not trying to be an asshat, but did you leave a rag or paper towel in the intake port? Tom
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:45 AM   #9
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Not trying to be an asshat, but did you leave a rag or paper towel in the intake port? Tom
Haha!! I made sure I checked that.
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:56 AM   #10
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With a CV carb spraying fuel into the carb won't tell allot unless you hold open the slide which is hard to do with the carb installed. I doubt it's electrical unless you left something disconnected. 99% of the time when having problems AFTER having just worked on the bike, the problem can be traced back to the work that was done. Don't go off into left field, chances are you didn't put something together properly or tore/damaged the diaphragm.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:24 AM   #11
TNC
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Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
With a CV carb spraying fuel into the carb won't tell allot unless you hold open the slide which is hard to do with the carb installed. I doubt it's electrical unless you left something disconnected. 99% of the time when having problems AFTER having just worked on the bike, the problem can be traced back to the work that was done. Don't go off into left field, chances are you didn't put something together properly or tore/damaged the diaphragm.
Yeah, I was thinking about the OP maybe damaging the diaphram too. If the vacuum slide won't lift, I'm not sure even the choke circuit will allow the bike to start. I know the throttle plate is cracked open slightly by the idle adjustment screw, but I'm trying to remember if the vacuum slide is all the way closed until it gets a "draw" from the engine cranking over. If that's the case, no/or little air mixes with the fuel. If that's happening, the OP should see a wet spark plug...or maybe not. I hate CV carbs.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:42 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by TNC View Post
Yeah, I was thinking about the OP maybe damaging the diaphram too. If the vacuum slide won't lift, I'm not sure even the choke circuit will allow the bike to start. I know the throttle plate is cracked open slightly by the idle adjustment screw, but I'm trying to remember if the vacuum slide is all the way closed until it gets a "draw" from the engine cranking over. If that's the case, no/or little air mixes with the fuel. If that's happening, the OP should see a wet spark plug...or maybe not. I hate CV carbs.

If the diaphragm is holed, the slide may not move up with engine vacuum in which case no appreciable amount of fuel will make it to the plug.

I hate 'em too. They have no place except on a streetbike. Yeah they work if you're willing to settle for so so performance.
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Old 05-29-2014, 03:28 PM   #13
Arrowv OP
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Ok. I caved and took it to the shop. Work is very busy and spending every evening and morning trying to jet a bike it no bueno.

So initially and through my troubles, Dynojet told me to use a 120 main with my setup and the shop noted that was not the right jet, so they went to a 124 main. Also, they noted the pilot screw needed to be drilled out, which is something Dynojet did not tell me.

After those two mods, the bike runs great! The shop noted that Dynojet kits are a really pain for Colorado altitude.

Anyhow, I am really bummed Dynojet gave me bad advice on the main jet...
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arrowv View Post
Ok. I caved and took it to the shop. Work is very busy and spending every evening and morning trying to jet a bike it no bueno.

So initially and through my troubles, Dynojet told me to use a 120 main with my setup and the shop noted that was not the right jet, so they went to a 124 main. Also, they noted the pilot screw needed to be drilled out, which is something Dynojet did not tell me.

After those two mods, the bike runs great! The shop noted that Dynojet kits are a really pain for Colorado altitude.

Anyhow, I am really bummed Dynojet gave me bad advice on the main jet...
Step 4 says to drill out the idle mixture plug! Did you read directions?
Or are you talking about the starter jet?
124 is big for 6000-9000 the main jet size had nothing to do with it not starting.
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:51 PM   #15
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Step 4 says to drill out the idle mixture plug! Did you read directions?
Or are you talking about the starter jet?
Not on mine!!
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