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Old 07-11-2009, 07:14 PM   #91
GB
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yes, the skid plate fits the 09.
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Old 07-11-2009, 07:24 PM   #92
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Sweet! Consider it ordered! Do forum members get a discount? Gotta try lol. Might as well splurge and get the smog plate while I'm at it.

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Old 07-27-2009, 02:48 PM   #93
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I was wondering if you could provide some insight into the 351 and how it compares to the 331 and 340 kits. I've ridden a 331 and own a stock 250 -- the difference was night and day; it was like a different bike.

But, For less than 10% more money, a person could step from 331 to 351. There must be some reason that the 331 and 340 kits still exist, right? With all of the good things posted here about the 351, why would a person opt for a 331 or 340? It would be helpful to me if there is some discussion of the tradeoffs between the kits -- torque, horsepower, longevity, difficulty of installation, need for rejetting or carb tuning, etc.

Thanks.
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:33 PM   #94
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I don't think Bill is still offering the small kits, he's maxed out the boring to 351.

Going from a 331 to a 351, I don't think you will notice a huge difference, but going from 250 to 350, well, it's a different bike.
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Old 08-11-2009, 08:24 PM   #95
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big bore kits

I still offer the 300, 331, 340 & 351 big bore kits for the KLX250

Bill
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:22 AM   #96
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Bill,

I wanted to ask your advice. I installed the 351 kit and re jetted per your instruction. Now the bike starts great, a little choke and we are off, however once its warm it refuses to restart just cranks and cranks, then starts to puff white smoke that smells like maple syrup. I figure the smoke is unburnt fuel but I am not sure whats your thoughts.

Note: to any perspective buyers this is not a problem with Bills product just my own stupidity.
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:48 AM   #97
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We have found that the copper head gasket needs to be re torqued after running the first time. If this don't solve the problem e-mail me.

Bill
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Old 11-03-2009, 03:21 AM   #98
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I'll second that retorquing recommendation but if the gasket has already developed a good leak you may need a new head gasket. Was your head really clean before you installed the kit? This is common to all heads and more so on singles. Some people even do it three times, once after intial start to full temp and full cooling, and once after 100mi or so.

The sweet smell comes from coolant that may have gone through he gasket into the cylinder. Once the engine stops and starts to cool down, the pressure from the coolant will force through the gasket and into the cylinder. If it was a big leak or crack somewhere gases from the cylinder would escape into the water passage and force all your coolant off. It will eventually do that even when cold for days.

So this needs immediate attention and not something to put off. If your head sealing surface is not clean torquing will not fix the sealing problem. If it seems porous it may need a head gasket sealant.

Your hot starting problem may be totally separate though and be caused by rich jetting not to confuse the issue for others having hot starting problems. If you shut the fuel petcock off and lean the bike a bit to drain some from the carb overflow, then try starting with the throttle steady at 1/8 open. That should clear it up a bit to start.
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Old 11-03-2009, 03:56 AM   #99
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Technical Questions On The Kit

Congratulations for your kit Bill, I admit that it refreshed some interest on the bike I had long lost.

Q1: What is the outside diameter and depth of the sleeve below the cylinder deck surface? Older KLX250s (I believe of the pre-300 era) had a narrow cavity in the cases that even the 300s sleeve wouldn't fit unless the cases were modified. It was a depth problem as well as the area around the crankwebs was thicker on the old 250s than on later 250/300s. If I remember right the split came around 96-97?

Q2: I assume this sleeve is not plated, just honed and the piston and rings is meant for such cylinders. Is this a custom made piston or one that exists in the market for other purpose? I know those things run for ever once done right but couldn't help but wonder. I'd assume for such compression rate and valve angles to match it must be custom.

Q3: Obviously the head is not modified, unless I haven't read all the info here that carefully. Am I correct to assume that area of the piston on the outer top part is meant for the stock 250 head (have the valve sizes changed through the 15 years in production?), would a 300 head work a well with your kit?

Q4: I remember back from the 250/300 stock parts conersions there was variability in the resulting compression from the swap. Some would use thicker gaskets and some would grind an angled squish band around the head, some would do both to avoid going to high numbers. Have you measured any variability in compression on those 3 prototype engines?

Q5: Is there a core charge for 250 cylinders? I have a couple good ones from early 250s that I do not see of ever using, a good crank/rod 2 CVs and few other bits and pieces if anyone is interested.

PS On the aftermarket oversized tanks that existed for the off road only model 250/300 there may be an issue with wiring that goes through under the tank by the front part of the frame as the loom for the street legal bikes is too thick. An other pain in the neck I dealt with since my bike was a Jap version street legal version of the non-kick start enduro bike. There had been so many versions of this bike around the world that even the most fanatic fans get confused. Between USD/conventional forks, electric or kickstart 250s, the D-Tracker, it must have been one of the most spread out models Kawa ever produced. When I saw the recent street legal version coming out my first reaction was "...ohhh no..... NOT Again! This thing will never die!"

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Old 11-03-2009, 05:14 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroGara
Congratulations for your kit Bill, I admit that it refreshed some interest on the bike I had long lost.

Q1: What is the outside diameter and depth of the sleeve below the cylinder deck surface? Older KLX250s (I believe of the pre-300 era) had a narrow cavity in the cases that even the 300s sleeve wouldn't fit unless the cases were modified. It was a depth problem as well as the area around the crankwebs was thicker on the old 250s than on later 250/300s. If I remember right the split came around 96-97?

Q2: I assume this sleeve is not plated, just honed and the piston and rings is meant for such cylinders. Is this a custom made piston or one that exists in the market for other purpose? I know those things run for ever once done right but couldn't help but wonder. I'd assume for such compression rate and valve angles to match it must be custom.

Q3: Obviously the head is not modified, unless I haven't read all the info here that carefully. Am I correct to assume that area of the piston on the outer top part is meant for the stock 250 head (have the valve sizes changed through the 15 years in production?), would a 300 head work a well with your kit?

Q4: I remember back from the 250/300 stock parts conersions there was variability in the resulting compression from the swap. Some would use thicker gaskets and some would grind an angled squish band around the head, some would do both to avoid going to high numbers. Have you measured any variability in compression on those 3 prototype engines?

Q5: Is there a core charge for 250 cylinders? I have a couple good ones from early 250s that I do not see of ever using, a good crank/rod 2 CVs and few other bits and pieces if anyone is interested.

PS On the aftermarket oversized tanks that existed for the off road only model 250/300 there may be an issue with wiring that goes through under the tank by the front part of the frame as the loom for the street legal bikes is too thick. An other pain in the neck I dealt with since my bike was a Jap version street legal version of the non-kick start enduro bike. There had been so many versions of this bike around the world that even the most fanatic fans get confused. Between USD/conventional forks, electric or kickstart 250s, the D-Tracker, it must have been one of the most spread out models Kawa ever produced. When I saw the recent street legal version coming out my first reaction was "...ohhh no..... NOT Again! This thing will never die!"

Bill's website is:
http://www.bandbcyclerestorations.com

Contacting him at the email address given on his site would get you information quickly.

Thanks,

Bake
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:18 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bake
Bill's website is:
http://www.bandbcyclerestorations.com

Contacting him at the email address given on his site would get you information quickly.

Thanks,

Bake
True, but answering the questions here makes it so we don't all have to ask the same questions.

I've been thinking about this kit but I would like many of the same questions answered others here have asked without reply.
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Old 11-11-2009, 06:22 PM   #102
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I will answer your questions below.

All of these questions have been answered in previous posts on the Kawasaki forum & Adventure forum.

I now use a fiber head gasket with a steel fire ring.

Q1: What is the outside diameter and depth of the sleeve below the cylinder deck surface? Older KLX250s (I believe of the pre-300 era) had a narrow cavity in the cases that even the 300s sleeve wouldn't fit unless the cases were modified. It was a depth problem as well as the area around the crankwebs was thicker on the old 250s than on later 250/300s. If I remember right the split came around 96-97?

A1: The 351 kit will only fit the 300 & new model 250; the early models need the case bored to fit the sleeve.

Q2: I assume this sleeve is not plated, just honed and the piston and rings is meant for such cylinders. Is this a custom made piston or one that exists in the market for other purpose? I know those things run for ever once done right but couldn't help but wonder. I'd assume for such compression rate and valve angles to match it must be custom.

A2: Sleeve is not plated.
The sleeve is bored then honed to fit the new piston.
The piston is my own design; the valve clearance cut is the same as
the 250 & 300 pistons.

Q3: Obviously the head is not modified, unless I haven't read all the info here that carefully. Am I correct to assume that area of the piston on the outer top part is meant for the stock 250 head (have the valve sizes changed through the 15 years in production?), would a 300 head work a well with your kit?

A3: The head is the same on the 250 & 300.
The piston clears the head just like it does on the 300.

Q4: I remember back from the 250/300 stock parts conersions there was variability in the resulting compression from the swap. Some would use thicker gaskets and some would grind an angled squish band around the head, some would do both to avoid going to high numbers. Have you measured any variability in compression on those 3 prototype engines?

A4: I have built 52 351 kits the compression is 12.5:1 no problem.
There will be some variation in compression because of the machining of the head & casting of the combustion chamber.

Q5: Is there a core charge for 250 cylinders? I have a couple good ones from early 250s that I do not see of ever using, a good crank/rod 2 CVs and few other bits and pieces if anyone is interested.

A5: I am charging $150.00 core charge, returnable upon receiving your
cylinder.

PS On the aftermarket oversized tanks that existed for the off road only model 250/300 there may be an issue with wiring that goes through under the tank by the front part of the frame as the loom for the street legal bikes is too thick. An other pain in the neck I dealt with since my bike was a Jap version street legal version of the non-kick start enduro bike. There had been so many versions of this bike around the world that even the most fanatic fans get confused. Between USD/conventional forks, electric or kickstart 250s, the D-Tracker, it must have been one of the most spread out models Kawa ever produced. When I saw the recent street legal version coming out my first reaction was "...ohhh no..... NOT Again! This thing will never die!"

Bill & Jo Ann Blue screwed with this post 11-11-2009 at 06:31 PM
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:13 PM   #103
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100 kits delivered!
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:27 AM   #104
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Anyone with one of these kits and some serious miles want to comment on the reliability of it? Thanks
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:24 AM   #105
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Proper Muffler options for 351 kit...

So I totally want to do a 351 kit . . . eventually. I just picked up and 07 KLX 250 and it had less than 700 miles on it when I bought it. I dont feel right swapping the piston on a motor that's not even broke in yet, and I figure it's just as well to get really cozy on the bike before I get wheelie popping power added to it. However, I do want to do some mods before getting the 351, including upgrading to a muffler combination that is good for when I get the 351 (waste not, want not, right?). So reading through this thread, it sounded like one of the original testors LOST power by adding a larger header. I dont plan (at the moment) on changing my carb, just doing the free mods to it. So is it going to make more power with the 351 with

1. A aftermarket slip on with stock header?
2. With just stock pipe all around period?
3. With a header and slip on but jetting or some particular carb mod to suit?

As I recall the guy who lost power with the header had pretty much all the free mods I know of, but did have a slip on.. or maybe just cut out the stock muffler?
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