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Old 12-01-2008, 10:31 AM   #31
Muggins OP
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Sounds like you got a lemon, other than the air intake which is a design flaw for sure. 6' = 6 feet, correct. I'm not planning on riding across the Thames any time soon. (I think you meant 6", inches, )

Has anyone ever tried modding the intake with some kind of snorkle? If not, how big of a tube do you think you really need?

FYI - my 17 liter stock tank is on its way from that guy in Australia! Maybe there is a way to sneak a snorkle under it and up the front near the radiators??
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Old 12-01-2008, 03:18 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggins
Where does one get those fancy allen wrench sets with the rounded ball ends??
I wouldn't bother, unless you really need one.

If you find a tight screw, and the 'ball' breaks off inside the head, there may be some swearing . Lets just say 'past experience'.
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:23 AM   #33
Pampera
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Tools to have

8, 10, 12 mm 1/4 drive sockets and T-handle plus combination wrenches (combined open end and ring spanner) in the same sizes

Short adjustable spanner (will also do the wheel nuts)

A decent screwdriver for the carb and the fuel tap (which vibrates to bits and needs to be checked after every ride)

Assorted blade type fuses (if the rev counter stops working, under no circumstances stop the engine unless you have the correct replacement fuse on you, it won't restart until the blown fuse has been replaced).

If your bike has a kick-start, do not use it: it was deleted on later models for a very good reason. If the engine kicks back, it will strip the gears.

You will also need to think about security.

This bike is horribly easy to hot wire: lock it or lose it (and the steering lock isn't much help).

Anyone can remove the seat without using any tools.

The air box problem can't be solved by adding a snorkel. This work of genuis has the air intake BELOW the filter: right above the footpeg in fact.
I sealed mine off as best I could with bits of old inner tube, then drilled holes in the top for the engine to breath through.

If you ride off-road, keep an eye on the wheels: the spokes aren't the stongest.

If it has still got the standard bars, then the off-road handling will improve if you fit higher ones: the bike is very heavy on the front for a dirt bike.

Don't worry, there is a half-decent motorcycle burried in there somewhere I'm sure.
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:03 PM   #34
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Nice... Looks like I'll be doing a little Dec 26th shopping spree!

I also have my OEM 17 liter tank on the way from that feller in Oz - thanks again for that find HuskyTE610E!! George at uptite has two, but wanted A LOT of money. With the exchange rates all out of wack, I only paid about $225 US shipped to London!

Its fairly beat up though - has one spot that the guy plastic welded, scrapes all over, decals peeling, etc. I might give it a quick wet sand and some coats of that Krylon paint and some fresh decals. Or....does anyone know if there is any stick on vinyl type products that could stetch to cover the whole tank?
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Old 12-05-2008, 03:07 PM   #35
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http://www.huskyrocks.com/
Now thats a cool web site.

What can anyone tell me about Husky 1994 610 WXE.
I found one but it needs work.
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Old 12-06-2008, 07:14 PM   #36
braduh60
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Question 17l tanks

I'm looking at a 2000 TE610E but I also will need the 17 l tanks. Any leads out there?
Thanks Brad
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Old 12-06-2008, 08:42 PM   #37
Muggins OP
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George at Uptite Racing in so cal has one or two.... give him a call.

Mugs
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Old 12-07-2008, 02:28 PM   #38
braduh60
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I call George two weeks ago. Very expensive. Are you happy with the 17l tank you found? I'm doing a dual-sport ride next summer from MT to NM. The 9 L tanks on the 00 TE610E is just too small. I actually only really need the tanks for about three weeks??
Brad
I actually have not gotten the 610 because of the fuel situation
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Old 12-10-2008, 09:42 AM   #39
Muggins OP
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Yes, George is a good guy and knows everything bout Husky's, but it sounds like he just plain doesnt want to sell them.

I still dont have mine. Takes a while to ship from Ozzy but I should have it before christmass. You should check in on ebay.au, maybe post something in their regional forum here on ADVrider or even try searching and calling some AU dealers or bike breakers. The TE610E in 00 came with a 17l tank stock in AU (I believe) and was a fairly pricey factory part elsewhere. However, US to AU dollar exchange rate is great for us Yanks so if you find one you'll probably get a smokin deal, even with the $125 AUD shipping price tag.
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Old 12-10-2008, 09:58 AM   #40
Muggins OP
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Carb - am I lean or rich?

So I took the Husky out for another spin today just enough to stetch the legs and keep the blood flowin. She started right up fine, but I think once warmed up and riding the fueling wasnt quite right.

I am getting popping on deceleration, hesitation/jerkyness when trying put along at 4k'ish rpm (2nd or 3rd gear I think) and even stalled a few times at idle if I slightly nudged the throttle (was fine if I cranked it harder). This is all on high octane fuel. It ran like crap on low test.

What simple adjustments can I try? I'll also have the tank off hopefully this weekend installing the 17l, so I'll have a convenient opportunity to replace some of the carb internals then.

Or, should I just dive in and uncork this thing? Does that basically include modding the airbox, jet kit and mod or replace the exhaust cans?

Thanks!
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Old 12-10-2008, 10:42 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggins
So I took the Husky out for another spin today just enough to stetch the legs and keep the blood flowin. She started right up fine, but I think once warmed up and riding the fueling wasnt quite right.

I am getting popping on deceleration, hesitation/jerkyness when trying put along at 4k'ish rpm (2nd or 3rd gear I think) and even stalled a few times at idle if I slightly nudged the throttle (was fine if I cranked it harder). This is all on high octane fuel. It ran like crap on low test.

What simple adjustments can I try? I'll also have the tank off hopefully this weekend installing the 17l, so I'll have a convenient opportunity to replace some of the carb internals then.

Or, should I just dive in and uncork this thing? Does that basically include modding the airbox, jet kit and mod or replace the exhaust cans?


Thanks!
STOP

Before you do any of the above.

Ask yourself, was it doing this before, when I rode down from Norfolk?

It was warmer then, and what you are describing now are classic carb icing symptoms.

It doesn't have to be below 0ēC to freeze your carb, as the evaporation of petrol will get the carb temp below the ambient temp.

First thing I'd do is drop the float bowl and check for water. You have to catch it as (if your bike has a Dell 'orto) the central nut that holds the float bowl on is also the drain plug AND the main jet holder.

You may find that a proprietary fuel additive helps.

otherwise look at ways of ducting heat from the cylinder to the carb, or using electric carb heaters (Suzuki ones are meant to be best).

Another thing to check: is the choke sticking?
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Old 12-10-2008, 10:46 AM   #42
Pampera
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From another part of the forum
So my solution is give up on the bloody carb heater etc and add 2% Silkoline Pro FTS carb treatment to the fuel.

The above is a British product, so availability should not be a problem.
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:02 PM   #43
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Yes, it was running like that on the way back from Norwich...

I think I understand the concept tho. Ice forms inside the carb at lower temps because fuel is present. Bike runs okay until warmed up and ice melts. I dont really think its that though. I rode for about half an hour today after warming up for 5-10 mins. Basically took a long, lazy lap around Hyde Park, London. I didnt get any full backfires, just a little popping on the 2nd half of the loop on deceleration after running the revs up to 6 or 7 grand. I maybe stalled 3 - 4 times, only when stopped or inching along. I think it was happening when I had the throttle closed, then just barely gave it the slightest twist. It give a "chug" or "blurp" then stop. Started up immediately after.

It's been a while since of "spoken" dirt bike and still not "fluent."

Thanks Pampera!
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Muggins screwed with this post 12-10-2008 at 12:10 PM
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:17 PM   #44
Pampera
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OK, so has it always run like that, or has it started running like that since you had it?

If it has ALWAYS run like that, then you should have returned it to the dealer for repair or refund (trade sale so bike must be of 'merchantable quality' and not cut out for no reason).It may not be too late.

If it has started running like that SINCE you collected it, then it's probably the weather.

As I said before, mine was delivered, new, with the wrong jets installed. Luckily my supplying dealer was competent and kind enough to spend the best part of a week sorting it all out.

A clue here might be that the bike doesn't cut out if you give it a handful:could that be because the accelerator pump is coming into play? The pilot jet in my bike was too small, so this is where I'd start looking if you do decided it's a permanent problem.

I'd also check the plug, airfilter etc before changing things around. Remember, if you start chopping and changing, the dealer can wash his hands of the bike.

BTW I think you'll find the carb off an XR600 is a direct replacement if you give up on the standard item, but measure up before you buy as I can't be sure.
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:23 PM   #45
Pampera
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We seem to have got posts out of order!

You may be able to correct it on the pilot screw.

First get the bike warmed up.

Then turn the big screw with the spring in slightly to get her running at a fast tick-over (about 2000 rpm).

Now look for the little screw with the flat head that's almost flush to the carb body.

Slowly and carfefully, turn it up to half a turn either way until the engine note rises to a peak. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE.

Now return the tickover to normal by backing off the big screw with the spring.

You have just tuned your slow-running passage!

CAUTION: Never lose count of how far you have turned either screw or in which direction. You starting point should be preserved so as you can return to it if your adjustments screw up and the bike stops.
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