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Old 05-10-2013, 09:38 AM   #29641
Juanjo_NY
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Originally Posted by 00SS View Post
So i decided to put a stainless mil spec slide on my RI A2 (wide body), this was mostly due to the fact i wanted some aftermarket fiber sights (front were pinned in and not dovetailed). Pretty standard swap, since it came stripped i swapped out the extractor and firing pin, added the green fiber sights and then reassembled. I did a bit of research as the slide fits 'very' tight.. any thoughts on the best way to 'lap' it in? i've been working it and applied a pretty liberal amount of Hoppes gun oil, but still pretty tight.
I don't mind a tight slide as opposed to a 'loose' one..i've heard both sides of the coin on which is more accurate/preferred.. the standard consensus is it should be 'butter'.. which it is not. any thoughts?

dust that lamp!

is that half jaw decoration or you use it for something!?
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:47 AM   #29642
00SS
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dust that lamp!

is that half jaw decoration or you use it for something!?
yes, i'm lacking in my office dusting skillz
The jawbone is ornamental, although i wouldn't want to get hit with it
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:36 PM   #29643
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This is just a guess, I am not a gunsmith.

But is it possible that with a tight, non-fitted (yet) slide you could get some valve lapping compound (like for a car engine) and put that on the rails and slide then spend an hour (or a few) running it back and fourth?
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:47 PM   #29644
TexBiker
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Originally Posted by 00SS View Post
I did a bit of research as the slide fits 'very' tight.. any thoughts on the best way to 'lap' it in?
Garnet lapping compound works well. I attended a 1911 build class with Bob Rodgers a few years back and that's what we used on our customs.

Get it here: Garnet Lapping Compound - Brownells

Ended up with this Dan Wesson CBOB homage when we were done:



Fun little 10mm beast.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:51 PM   #29645
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Originally Posted by EvilGenius View Post
This is just a guess, I am not a gunsmith.

But is it possible that with a tight, non-fitted (yet) slide you could get some valve lapping compound (like for a car engine) and put that on the rails and slide then spend an hour (or a few) running it back and fourth?
Kind of what i was thinking, maybe some lithium grease. I was also thinking no harm in putting a box through it and see if it'll lighten up a bit. I guess the worse that will happen is it won't cycle if it's to tight?
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:54 PM   #29646
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Garnet lapping compound works well. I attended a 1911 build class with Bob Rodgers a few years back and that's what we used on our customs.

Get it here: Garnet Lapping Compound - Brownells

Ended up with this Dan Wesson CBOB homage when we were done:



Fun little 10mm beast.
Nice piece - i'll have a look at that compound.. thanks for the tip.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:55 PM   #29647
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I guess the worse that will happen is it won't cycle if it's to tight?
No, you could end up galling the frame/slide together and ending with a very expensive issue. Best to use a non-embedding lapping compound as mentioned in my previous post to prevent this issue.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:32 PM   #29648
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Originally Posted by TexBiker View Post
Garnet lapping compound works well. I attended a 1911 build class with Bob Rodgers a few years back and that's what we used on our customs.

Get it here: Garnet Lapping Compound - Brownells

Ended up with this Dan Wesson CBOB homage when we were done:



Fun little 10mm beast.
Beautiful!
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:00 PM   #29649
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No, you could end up galling the frame/slide together and ending with a very expensive issue. Best to use a non-embedding lapping compound as mentioned in my previous post to prevent this issue.
duly noted - thanks again for your help.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:02 PM   #29650
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I use anti-seize compound on my Glock slide rails. They come from the factory with a copper paste on them, which I've been told is a form of anti-seize.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:02 AM   #29651
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Something to consider is that if you wear down the rails on the frame the original slide may become rather looser than you want. You should look at working the new slide and make it fit the frame rather than modify a frame that already has a good fit with the original slide. Using valve grinding paste will work both the slide and frame rails, not just the slide. What is the part that is hanging up? Is it the thickness of the slide rail, shallowness of the female cut or is the cut too narrow? Is it because of binding at the breach end of the barrel or is the barrel binding on the locking lugs in the frame? Is it possible that the new slide and frame are the same grade of steel meaning they are galling together rather than sliding? You should identify what the binding is from before you start taking away metal.

I like home gunsmithing but only when there is a knowledge basis to work from. Experimentation can get rather costly if you make a mistake. I might be a bit overly cautious but for me I'd rather pay a 'smith who know what he's doing rather than kludge up a perfectly functional gun. Even if he just gives advice on how I should handle the issue.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:28 AM   #29652
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Something to consider is that if you wear down the rails on the frame the original slide may become rather looser than you want. You should look at working the new slide and make it fit the frame rather than modify a frame that already has a good fit with the original slide. Using valve grinding paste will work both the slide and frame rails, not just the slide. What is the part that is hanging up? Is it the thickness of the slide rail, shallowness of the female cut or is the cut too narrow? Is it because of binding at the breach end of the barrel or is the barrel binding on the locking lugs in the frame? Is it possible that the new slide and frame are the same grade of steel meaning they are galling together rather than sliding? You should identify what the binding is from before you start taking away metal.

I like home gunsmithing but only when there is a knowledge basis to work from. Experimentation can get rather costly if you make a mistake. I might be a bit overly cautious but for me I'd rather pay a 'smith who know what he's doing rather than kludge up a perfectly functional gun. Even if he just gives advice on how I should handle the issue.
I don't disagree with you and it's not my gun, but I think he's intending for this to be the new permanent slide for the gun. If that's the case, then it should be fine for the frame rails to wear a bit.

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Old 05-11-2013, 02:41 PM   #29653
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Next one...I dunno, depends what ammo I can round up. I have plenty, but won't shoot it unless I can replace it.



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Old 05-12-2013, 04:31 AM   #29654
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Next one...I dunno, depends what ammo I can round up. I have plenty, but won't shoot it unless I can replace it.
Then you don't have "plenty".


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Old 05-12-2013, 04:43 AM   #29655
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Then you don't have "plenty".


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