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Old 06-19-2013, 08:51 AM   #29836
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Originally Posted by doc_ricketts View Post
Yep, tuning the accutrigger (Savage term) is very worthwhile. I could get both my Savage 10 and 12 to about 1.5 lbs by trimming the little spring in the trigger back housing. (The target 12 goes down to 1 for sure). But finally I took both of the silver drilled pretrigger piece out and have both of the triggers down to about .5 lbs, which requires me to put the safety on before closing the bolt. So people who want to shoot little bitty groups will do really stupid things at times.
Never heard of a set trigger? I have a Canjar that is set by pushing it forward. It can be adjusted to trip with just a couple ounces, and is completely safe, because it's a 2 pounder unset. You close the bolt, then set the trigger.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:07 AM   #29837
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I found out the Paul Bunyan club at Puyallup has 1000 yard range, but normally not available for members. The club at Eatonville has a 1000 yd range which apparently available and if you know somebody at Ft. Lewis, the 1000 yd range there can be used. Need to get out at try one sometime. I used to be able to put five shots in six inches at 600 yds, but that was awhile ago.
Yeah, the Ft. Lewis one was available to the public at one time. Not sure what happened there. I'd love to try a range that had paper all the way out to 1000 yards like an F Class competition range. We can't really tell what kind of groups were getting with the metal targets since there are a number of people shooting and you loose track of the paint that was taken off. About all you can tell is that your windage and elevation are in the ball park.

6 inches at 600 yards is competitive level. I doubt very much that we are close to that. All we know is that we can hit the metal buffalo at 500 yards so consistently that it becomes too easy. We can hit the gong at 700 yards consistently enough. Beyond that distance, wind, load consistency and shooting technique start separating the men from the boys and even though we can hit the gong at 1000 yards we can't do it consistently enough especially when there is variable wind. And when we do I'm sure that our groups are not something that would impress anyone. We’re still using factory ammo at this point so this is more long distance plinking than any kind of serious long distance shooting. It is fun though.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:12 AM   #29838
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Never heard of a set trigger? I have a Canjar that is set by pushing it forward. It can be adjusted to trip with just a couple ounces, and is completely safe, because it's a 2 pounder unset. You close the bolt, then set the trigger.
I've got a CS 550 FS in 9.3x62 that has a set trigger. I love it but everyone who has shot it hates it. I tell them that once it's set all they have to do is breath on it. It still usually takes people by surprise. If you aren't completely ready and have that butt stock firmly to your shoulder it'll leave a bruise that will take a couple of days to go away.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:53 AM   #29839
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Originally Posted by RonS View Post
I've got a CS 550 FS in 9.3x62 that has a set trigger. I love it but everyone who has shot it hates it. I tell them that once it's set all they have to do is breath on it. It still usually takes people by surprise. If you aren't completely ready and have that butt stock firmly to your shoulder it'll leave a bruise that will take a couple of days to go away.


My uncle has a couple of bench-rest rifles with 2oz triggers. Everyone's first experience with one of those seems to go the same way.

"Before you close the bolt, remember that it's a light trigger. Keep your finger out of the guard until your absolutely ready."

Cha-click, the bolt closes and fat-finger Freddy moves his shooting hand into position.

BOOM!

"OW!"

"I told ya."
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:14 AM   #29840
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Originally Posted by RonS View Post
I've got a CS 550 FS in 9.3x62 that has a set trigger. I love it but everyone who has shot it hates it. I tell them that once it's set all they have to do is breath on it. It still usually takes people by surprise. If you aren't completely ready and have that butt stock firmly to your shoulder it'll leave a bruise that will take a couple of days to go away.
I have a fairly lightweight .375 H&H, and the only time it's been benched was to get the scope zeroed. It's OK recoil-wise if you stand up to shoot. I don't care to bench large bore guns, because it's an easy way to get a flinch going.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:03 PM   #29841
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I have a fairly lightweight .375 H&H, and the only time it's been benched was to get the scope zeroed. It's OK recoil-wise if you stand up to shoot. I don't care to bench large bore guns, because it's an easy way to get a flinch going.
Yeah, my brother has a .375 H&H as well. You can almost tell that people have wet themselves a bit when they touch that monster off.
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:24 PM   #29842
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I have a fairly lightweight .375 H&H, and the only time it's been benched was to get the scope zeroed. It's OK recoil-wise if you stand up to shoot. I don't care to bench large bore guns, because it's an easy way to get a flinch going.
I shot a '75 vintage Win Model 70 in 375H&H for about a decade, shot it a lot actually, and with full loads. My favorite was a 300 grain Sierra boat-tail spitzer loaded pretty close to max. The gun wasn't a featherweight, but still kicked like hell from a bench. I used to zero it with a 25# bag of lead shot positioned between the gun and my shoulder. I eventually got tired of the beating and sold it to a friend who still has it but doesn't shoot it much. My hard kicker now is a Ruger No. 1, which is pretty lightweight, in 9.3x74R. That one kicks about as bad as the old 375 did because it's so light. I did get one of the Sorbothane shoulder pads, can't think of the brand-name, but that helps some. I think the bag of lead-shot is easier on the shoulder by a large margin, but I think it might be harder on the gun, especially scope mounting screws. I've heard of them being sheared off when the gun is not allowed to move sufficiently.
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:08 PM   #29843
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Never heard of a set trigger? I have a Canjar that is set by pushing it forward. It can be adjusted to trip with just a couple ounces, and is completely safe, because it's a 2 pounder unset. You close the bolt, then set the trigger.
But they cost money and I am a real cheap bastid. My crude mod works good if I just remember to put the safety on before closing the bolt.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:07 PM   #29844
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Set triggers have been around for a while. My circa 1880 Ballard has one. 1 up from the bottom.


Luckily a 218B does not kick much.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:15 PM   #29845
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Set triggers have been around for a while. My circa 1880 Ballard has one. 1 up from the bottom.


Luckily a 218B does not kick much.
I'll bet that the .218 Bee is the Martini Cadet. I also have one. I use a 10X Unertl 1" gallery scope on it. Fun little gun.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:27 PM   #29846
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Close, it a Martini model 12/15 Target rifle in its original .22cal. Its the heaviest gun I own.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:37 PM   #29847
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Close, it a Martini model 12/15 Target rifle in its original .22cal. Its the heaviest gun I own.
Interesting. I have a set of orthoptic sights for one of those. One lens clamps on the muzzle, the other one screws into a tang sight, and it works like a scope.

My .22 target rifle is a Winchester 52-C bull gun. We do a rimfire bench match once a year at the club, and it's lots of fun.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:57 AM   #29848
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Set triggers have been around for a while. My circa 1880 Ballard has one. 1 up from the bottom.


Luckily a 218B does not kick much.
Very nice collection of vintage rifles. I've got a "modern" 1885 in 45-70 made by Uberti with a soule long range sight and another made by Browning (Japan) in 25-06 that is scoped. Love that 45-70. I managed to hit the Buffalo at 500 yards shooting freehand (with a sling to stabilize) at the range a couple of weeks ago. I didn't know it at the time but everyone on the range was watching. They clapped when I hit it. I put it down after that. Didn't want to know if it was luck or skill but there is a high probability that it was the former.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:38 AM   #29849
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My highwall is a 4 digit, flat spring gun made around 1887. Original 32-20.

The rolling block is a 44-77 made in 1878. .446 cal, with a larger case than the 45.70.

The Ruger #3 45-70 only weighs about 6.5 lb and loaded to max will make you cry after about 10 rounds.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:48 AM   #29850
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My highwall is a 4 digit, flat spring gun made around 1887. Original 32-20.

The rolling block is a 44-77 made in 1878. .446 cal, with a larger case than the 45.70.

The Ruger #3 45-70 only weighs about 6.5 lb and loaded to max will make you cry after about 10 rounds.
Very cool. Not the crying part you understand. I know what that's about. My brother likes to load hot 45-70's and watch people cry when shooting them. He's a sick bastard.
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