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Old 04-20-2010, 03:03 PM   #8296
Sniper X
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All I use on alloy wheels now is wheel cle3aner that is rated for them. Or very hot soapy water.....I am going to stick a set of Excells (blue) SM on the Husqa and nEVeR go near simple green or degreaser whilst at the car wash again!
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Old 04-20-2010, 04:42 PM   #8297
DELTATANGO
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What would happen to a Glock if you soaked it in brake cleaner for a week?

I'm serious. What would it do? If not a week a year. I bet it would dissolve.



PS All Glocks are single action.

DELTATANGO screwed with this post 04-20-2010 at 07:03 PM
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Old 04-20-2010, 05:26 PM   #8298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper X
I was friggin livid. Almost wrote a stern but useless letter to Simplyshittygreen.

A bit off topic. Simple green was a linked cause with bicycle chains braking/failure a few years ago after "soaking" overnight.....one mag "guru" wrote about the practice of overnight soaking, and the failures followed.
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Old 04-20-2010, 09:04 PM   #8299
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I like the smell of it.
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Old 04-21-2010, 04:55 AM   #8300
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I used Simple Green Concentrate on two guns last night, both stainless steel. My conclusion is that it works very well on anything but the toughest gun grime. The 'acid test' was the cylinder from my .44 magnum. The grime on the sides and rear, which consisted primarily of powder residue, came off much easier than it had with other cleaners I've tried. The accumulated gunk on the front on the cylinder was another matter. This was a combination of powder residue and lead dust (I use cast lead bullets) that had been baked on by hot combustion gasses. I managed to get about 90% of it off, using a toothbrush, a scouring pad, and finally a bronze brush. It took a lot of elbow grease, and I'm still not satisfied with the result. I might try steel wool tonight.

Next came my Kimber .45ACP. This one was a breeze by comparison. Dirt just melted off. The only part that required any scrubbing was the area around the feed ramp where lead residue had accumulated. I left the parts out to dry after flushing them with hot water, and checked the results this morning. It now looks like a gun which has never been fired.
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Old 04-21-2010, 05:16 AM   #8301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurelius
I used Simple Green Concentrate on two guns last night, both stainless steel. My conclusion is that it works very well on anything but the toughest gun grime. The 'acid test' was the cylinder from my .44 magnum. The grime on the sides and rear, which consisted primarily of powder residue, came off much easier than it had with other cleaners I've tried. The accumulated gunk on the front on the cylinder was another matter. This was a combination of powder residue and lead dust (I use cast lead bullets) that had been baked on by hot combustion gasses. I managed to get about 90% of it off, using a toothbrush, a scouring pad, and finally a bronze brush. It took a lot of elbow grease, and I'm still not satisfied with the result. I might try steel wool tonight.

Next came my Kimber .45ACP. This one was a breeze by comparison. Dirt just melted off. The only part that required any scrubbing was the area around the feed ramp where lead residue had accumulated. I left the parts out to dry after flushing them with hot water, and checked the results this morning. It now looks like a gun which has never been fired.
You are working way too hard on that revolver.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=623952
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Old 04-21-2010, 05:26 AM   #8302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuclear Fishin'
You are working way too hard on that revolver.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=623952
I've seen that product advertised, but have no personal experience with it. The problem that I see is that a piece of cloth, no matter how effectively it may clean, can't do any good on surfaces it can't reach. There are all sorts of small crevices in the frame of a revolver that you just can't get a cloth into.
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Old 04-21-2010, 05:56 AM   #8303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurelius
I've seen that product advertised, but have no personal experience with it. The problem that I see is that a piece of cloth, no matter how effectively it may clean, can't do any good on surfaces it can't reach. There are all sorts of small crevices in the frame of a revolver that you just can't get a cloth into.
They cut down the cleaning time on the 7 stainless S&W revolvers I have.
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:02 AM   #8304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuclear Fishin'
They cut down the cleaning time on the 7 stainless S&W revolvers I have.
How do you get this cloth into the tiny crevice between, say, the breech end of the barrel and the frame?
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:05 AM   #8305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurelius
Are there any smaller models you'd recommend?
Any of the smaller units work just fine. One thing to consider before ordering is that you won't really need the oil tank because they're sort of overkill. You'll do a better job oiling the parts by hand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by P B G
Thats the difference between simple green in parts washer, and simple green in ultrasonic cleaners.

Parts washer its there for a few minutes where you use the brush and stand there for a bit. Ultrasonic you let it soak and run.

I believe simple green sells an aviation product which is aluminum safe.
We use mineral spirits in our parts washers. You should too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DELTATANGO
What would happen to a Glock if you soaked it in brake cleaner for a week?

I'm serious. What would it do? If not a week a year. I bet it would dissolve.


PS All Glocks are single action.
A. Nothing would happen.

B. No, they're "Safe Action." You can't manually cock the hammer as they do not have one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuclear Fishin'
You are working way too hard on that revolver.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=623952
Be careful when using this or like products on blued steel. It can strip the bluing off in record time.
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:16 AM   #8306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurelius
How do you get this cloth into the tiny crevice between, say, the breech end of the barrel and the frame?
I don't, I use it to quickly clean the easily accessible areas and work on the the tight areas with other stuff.
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:20 AM   #8307
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Originally Posted by The_Commander
Be careful when using this or like products on blued steel. It can strip the bluing off in record time.
I don't use it on blued revolvers, the directions right on the package say not to. I don't use anything more abrasive than just a touch of Flitz or toothpaste on my blued guns.
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:30 AM   #8308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Commander
Any of the smaller units work just fine. One thing to consider before ordering is that you won't really need the oil tank because they're sort of overkill. You'll do a better job oiling the parts by hand.
What sort of cleaning do you use them for? For instance, can you drop a dirty gun in the reservoir and pull it out hours later in spotless condition?
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:46 AM   #8309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurelius
What sort of cleaning do you use them for? For instance, can you drop a dirty gun in the reservoir and pull it out hours later in spotless condition?
We use them for all sorts of cleaning jobs. From just quick "knock the residue off" to removal of cosmoline from mil-surp items.

It doesn't take hours, just about 5-10 minutes for most jobs.

You'll need to pull the parts out after a couple of minutes and give them a quick brushing in some cases and then re-submerge them for another 3-4 minutes. They should come out all shiny and clean provided your solution is clean.
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:57 AM   #8310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Commander
We use them for all sorts of cleaning jobs. From just quick "knock the residue off" to removal of cosmoline from mil-surp items.

It doesn't take hours, just about 5-10 minutes for most jobs.

You'll need to pull the parts out after a couple of minutes and give them a quick brushing in some cases and then re-submerge them for another 3-4 minutes. They should come out all shiny and clean provided your solution is clean.
In ancient times before CAD, we used ultrasonic cleaners for cleaning drafting equipment. They were especially effective at scrubbing out the delicate internal parts of drafting pens without requiring any disassembly. My question is, can you use them on guns in the same way? Will they scrub off the accumulated powder/lead residue in crevices you can't reach with ordinary cleaning tools, or is that type of work too 'heavy duty' for ultrasonic cleaners?
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