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Old 08-29-2010, 09:44 PM   #46
Shoganai OP
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My goodness, where to begin!?

*At the leak of course you silly girl*

Well, the bike has had a persistent dribbling of oil seen here.



The clutch was not slipping, but if the source was the rear main, then it wouldn't be long before that was an issue. Up front let me tell you I did NOT want to dig that deeply into this bike before this up coming trip.

One thing, time was in short supply due to my work schedule.

Two, I knew it was going to lead me to finding other things that needed attention and money.

Three, the last time I was in this part of the bike was when I was broke down in High Level, AB for 10 days, so it was going to bring back some tough memories.

I wanted to see if I could do this myself for several reasons.

I wanted to put the angst I had about working on this region of the bike in itís grave.
I thought if I could do this in a calm, peaceful, controlled, low stress environment, it would over write the angst from before.

I was so frightened Iíd mess it up that I would read over and over again the pages and review the pictures of every step.

I suffer from Ďleft - rightí confusion as well as having a hell of a time converting words into pictures in my head.



So, I start pulling parts off.



I will be replacing this.



This was a PITA!! to get off. Words to the wise, take the top bolt off the coil mount, and allow to hang by the lower bolt to remove this from the ABS unit.





It has a good size hook under that screw and must be levered out quite a bit to free it.

Ah, yes, ABSII. Holy shit if that wasnít a SOB to get pulled out of there.
It required disconnecting all 4 fittings you see here and one more that passes thru the battery pan to the rear brake peddle.



This is what I thought of that.



One more thing, the book showed a picture and described poking a hole on the pump the protects the following wires.

I was disturbed by that thought and balked at it.
I asked Steve to look at it and he discovered that there was a small tab on top of the box that when released, the cover just slid straight up and off.



Second thing to note, the books donít really give you a good idea how MUCH stuff you have to take off to get to where you need to be.

Here, the ABS unit and battery are pulled out.



Left foot peg bracket suspended and right foot peg bracket completely removed, and over flow tank released, but not removed.





Next I struggled with this bracket and after being advised, I removed the starter and alternator to finally remove it.



Next I needed to remove the exhaust. So I placed a jack stand and pulled out the large jack to get to the header.



Upon close inspection, the first pipe was heavily coated in soot, and the other three didnít look that bad. Then I went digging for the copper crush washers in the engine block and found the cylinder #1 didnít have one.

Cylinder #1





Cylinderís 2, 3 and 4 looked like this.



Before tackling this Steve suggested spraying PB on the heavily rusted parts and let it sit over night. It was no doubt a LOT easier to removed the exhaust but a still ended up with three of these.





So I did this to free the studs from the nuts.
(that didnít come out right)





Then cleaned all the threads with a wire brush.

Then I saw this! Dammit!!! The infamous K11 header fracture curse!



I called my local and totally awesome machine shop and they said they could help.
I know and they knew the repair would never be 100% air tight but it would hold until I get back for my up coming trip. Or at least that was what I was beating on.

After dropping the exhaust off and picking up 8 new nuts I went back and re-seated the studs in place.

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Old 08-29-2010, 09:55 PM   #47
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:22 PM   #48
Shoganai OP
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Ok you can stop that right now mister!




Ok, thatís looking good now.



Off with the coils. I just suspended them with a bungee off the fairing.





Note I also have place the full jack back under the bike.

Look at the alternator.



I disconnected the gear position switch.



To keep dirt and whatever out of the place where the starter mounts, I duct taped over the hole.





Iíve had these SS fuel quick disconnects for awhile, and took the time to install them.



I found a hinge broke and replaced it.



I released and pulled the clutch cable out of the way.



Removed and secured the speed sensor.





Not mentioned but already done were removing the rear break calipers and suspending them, removing the center stand, removing the heat shield at the shift lever, removing the mud guard and removing the rear wheel.

Time to pull the transmission, drive shaft and final drive out as one unit.



The transmission was covered with a thick oil, but it felt and smelt like gear oil not used engine oil.



Steve and I agreed it was in fact gear oil, so I took the tranny to Mortonís BMW and they were kind enough the replace the output shaft seal while I waited and the tech was nice enough to let me watch.
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Old 08-29-2010, 11:04 PM   #49
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Well now, I guess since I’m this for down the throat of the beast there was no turning back. So lets have a look at that rear main seal.

I removed the clutch works and got down to the rear clutch housing. I made SURE to draw a line with a Sharpie across the face of the clutch assembly as they are a factory balanced unit and must be mounted back in the housing EXACTLY the same way they came out.

Oh my, my, my, all that slick stuff on that can’t be good. (smeared with finger to enhance the think coat.



I remove it.



Not a good sign.



You can see the oil leak, so I’m glad I took a look.



I pulled the old seal out.





I didn’t have a drift to install the new seal, so I used a piece of oak 1x4 to tap it in.



I then did something else to wait out some time to see if I seated it right.

I checked the friction plate for spec and was good.





I then started cleaning and inspecting parts. On the back of the rear housing I found a burr. Not all that important, but I weird about symmetry and neatness when it comes to this sort of thing. So I gently sanded it off.







You can see where the burr was digging into the housing.



The whole clutch assembly was a stuck like super glue and Steve and I struggled to free it. The spring hub got moved off center, so I fixed.



I cleaned the face of the transmission.



And when I was sure the seal was sound, I put the clutch assembly back on.

Cleaned and new nut, o-ring and thrust washer.



O-ring placed. It will not be seated until the nut has been torqued, released and re-torqued.



Thrust washer.



Nut.



Spring greased.



I used an old input shaft as an alignment tool.



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Old 08-29-2010, 11:51 PM   #50
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Time to put the stuff back on.
This was a lot like wressin’ a greased 45 pound pig in 4 foot of water.



My son John helped but was a little grossed out about the oil.



Balanced on three jacks, the docking procedure began.



Oh, one more thing, the push rod, and thrust bearing must be removed before mounting the tranny to the engine.











I don’t seem to have uploaded a pic of the exhaust repair. but the welding caused the pipes to draw. this made the re-fitting of it very difficult and I could not have done this with Steve help and knowledge of such things.



Stuff continues to be put back on the bike with Steve’s help. I was paraglide at the point of re-connecting the wires I had freed from their attachments and w/o Steve I don’t think I could have got all of them in the right place.

Thank you dear.

I learned that I MUST label every wire PRIOR to disconnecting them.



Steve helped me switch shocks off the Shop Whore.





So this is how I left her yesterday morning as I had to drive to SC from VA and will not be back home until Tuesday night.



Steve told me he put the fuel tank back on cranked it up and it ran ok, so there’s hope yet and didn’t mess up too badly.
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:50 AM   #51
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Looking good sweetie, tonight I will get the rear brake sorted and bled, the mud guard on and remount the rear wheel. Then back it up and remover the front wheel, forks, and get the front brakes sorted and bled.

Thanks for letting me help. Awesome job dear.
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:05 AM   #52
Shoganai OP
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You realize this is how we met; you helping me prepare for a trip?

Thank for all you do.
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:14 AM   #53
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Wow. Glad she's getting back together all right for you. Did you intentionally paint your nails to match your bike?
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:35 AM   #54
Shoganai OP
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Did you intentionally paint your nails to match your bike?
Naw, it just turned out that way.
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Old 08-30-2010, 08:56 PM   #55
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You absolutely rock, Gwen

O-rings can be the bane of one's existence. They were freaking everywhere back in my submarine building days, and they are all important.

But you have two good friends: Vaseline* and Wood.

Vaseline will help hold it in place, and a light coat will help the shaft / cover over /on without pulling it. 99.9999% of O-ring failures are installation related. Properly selected for the task, they simply do not fail in service.

To make sure it is seated, we used the world's fanciest tongue depressors. Essentially hand carved by the model shop from rock maple, and absolutely no rough edges. But subs use big O-rings. For motorcycle stuff just sand some Popsicle sticks so there are no sharp edges..and I would be tempted to put a light coat of varnish on them to make sure there is no splintering. Use these to seat your O-rings. You should (almost) never have to force an O-ring, so easy does it.

O-ring design is fascinating, and what makes them challenging is they are not round gaskets. They are seals that require a pressure differential to work. They will almost always fit loosely in a female groove (and yes, it is painful to even type that )

Parker-Hannefin has a bunch of neato online stuff about O-rings

Cleanliness is not just next to Godliness with O-rings, it is the Deity itself. Typically the machined finish on O-ring grooves is between 32-63 RMS. That is all wasted if there is any grunge present.

Again, really well done

PS - Kudos for getting rid of the burr. Burrs are huge stress raisers. Failure starts at these points. They have no place on any rotating machinery. Serious engine builders de-burr everything, including the block castings. But they are sad lonely people

PPS - OK, never use Vaseline on any High Pressure Air fittings. Petroleum jelly is just that: Petroleum based. Combine that with a pressurized air supply and you get combustion. Use Krytox (or a commercial equivalent) on the air fittings. Krytox is one of the coolest things to ever come out of a tube...but pricey.

*PPPS - OK, every time we got a fresh kid right out of Engineering School in the engine room, one of the bilge rats would start referring to Vaseline as "Boy Butter". Well, eventually the eager young lad would inquire as to the precise etymology of that particular naming convention. Then it was explained to him. And it was further explained who we all thought the boy who was most likely to get buttered was. The looks on their young faces was priceless
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Old 08-30-2010, 09:31 PM   #56
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Sorry, I know you don't like it, but I get such a thrill out of sitting here watching what you're doing to the bike. I had a little glitch with my ABS unit last week, thank everything that is holy that it wasn't anything other than a front wheel mis code and now I can see what my mechanic meant when he said that fixing that ABS system is "quite a big job". So, Shoganai, you rock

I'll go away now and sit over here and be all quiet and such
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:05 PM   #57
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What an undertaking. I'm proud of you!
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:37 PM   #58
Shoganai OP
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This morning I woke up to Steve having cleaned up my mess in the garage AND arranging the bikes in preparation for swapping the forks.

>>> Steve



I take the weight off of the wheel.






Everything was cover w/ fork oil.
I cleaned all that off.





I always secure the shims.







I cleaned all the old grease off the axel and shims and regreased all those parts.

I installed fork gaiters.



Then I started bleeding the brakes.

Steve made this up, I glued it together.







Ok, this is it.

Time to see if I put it back together right.





Steve rode with me




WHOOT!!!






It shifts better than it ever has since I bought it.


Reeeaaal smoooooth!
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:51 PM   #59
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That's just the happiest pictures I have seen in a long time.
Bloody nice job, Shoganai, the bike is beautiful!!
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Old 09-01-2010, 08:44 PM   #60
Shoganai OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Offblnz


That's just the happiest pictures I have seen in a long time.
Bloody nice job, Shoganai, the bike is beautiful!!
Thank you, and thank you for spelling my name right, so few people manage to do that.

That said, you can call me Gwen


PS, I'll be in Sugar Hill, NH not this weekend, but next, if you want to hook up, PM me
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