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Old 12-21-2012, 01:35 AM   #15601
ADVSearcher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfallover View Post
Is the cover straight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
It appears to be, it was not really leaking before from what I could tell, guess I could order another cover.


This is my first oil change since I bought the bike, just wondering if this is a common issue. I have the bolts torqued right.
Also recently made my first oil change on my BRP... I'm at work right now so I can't confirm it, but I think it's important to tighten the bolts in a certain order. Start to tight from the lower bolts & tighten them cross wise to the top (kind of rolling the cover in place ...). You can find some videos on Youtube that walk you through the oil change & I also think you get tightening instructions from the workshop manual.

ADVSearcher screwed with this post 12-21-2012 at 01:42 AM
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:59 AM   #15602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
It appears to be, it was not really leaking before from what I could tell, guess I could order another cover.

This is my first oil change since I bought the bike, just wondering if this is a common issue. I have the bolts torqued right.
Make sure the filter was installed in the correct orientation. Some of the aftermarket filters don't have the markings. Don't ask me how I found out.
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:36 AM   #15603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demomanmc View Post
Make sure the filter was installed in the correct orientation. Some of the aftermarket filters don't have the markings. Don't ask me how I found out.
Don't over analyze the filter installation. A tightening sequece isn't needed, just run them down somewhat evenly and don't over torque them. As for filter orientation, there's a front and back, that's it!

If it tightens down and still leaks from the cover then:

A- the o-ring is damaged
B- the cover is damaged or warped
C- something foreign is in the sealing area.

I've probably got 15~20 oil changes on the original o-ring, no leaks. I place the filter and spring in the cavity, place the cover (cleaned) with o-ring installed on, hold it down with one hand and hand tighten the bolts with the other. Snug 'em up with an 8mm and it's done.

There's plenty of procedures where the manual will have you jumping through hoops when it's not necessisary.
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:44 AM   #15604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigToad View Post
I prefer the screen size of the Montana, I note that's what Colebatch uses it on the Sibirsky Extreme ride partially because it holds a massive amount of waypoints

On the XRR I had to stick an ear plug behind the plastic that holds battery otherwise it shuts off soon as it gets rough.

I've never had to do that on my Oregon, but I do it on my Spot.

The Oregon (for what I paid) has served me very well. I'd go Montana for my next one because of better screen. Otherwise I'll run my Oregon into the ground first.

Don't plan on either unless they are powered. Makes using a GPS 100x better.
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:52 AM   #15605
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Reassembling my clutch after replacing the clutch center, should I just coat the clutch bushing (the one that's still in it) and everything with oil when I put it back together, or use some type of grease on the clutch bushing and maybe end of the lifter rod? Also if I should put grease on that clutch bushing, what type, and should I coat the thing inside and out?
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:21 PM   #15606
medisyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Don't over analyze the filter installation. A tightening sequece isn't needed, just run them down somewhat evenly and don't over torque them. As for filter orientation, there's a front and back, that's it!

If it tightens down and still leaks from the cover then:

A- the o-ring is damaged
B- the cover is damaged or warped
C- something foreign is in the sealing area.

I've probably got 15~20 oil changes on the original o-ring, no leaks. I place the filter and spring in the cavity, place the cover (cleaned) with o-ring installed on, hold it down with one hand and hand tighten the bolts with the other. Snug 'em up with an 8mm and it's done.

There's plenty of procedures where the manual will have you jumping through hoops when it's not necessisary.
This is pretty much what I did the first time and the second. I third try is always worth a shot!
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:32 PM   #15607
juri.tabain
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Location: Going RTW
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RTW - which spark plug?

Still prepping the bike for the long haul - which spark plug would you guys suggest? Running an BKR8E-11 now, as listed in the manualfor longer high speed rides. Unfortunately NGK do not make an iridium version of this one. The BKR7E-11 has an iridium brother though - and I really prefer those due do outlasting reliability...
Thinking about going for a few 7EIX ones and take a usual 8 spare and closely check the engine temp.

Any experiance and help appreciated...

Oh and there will be a bike build thread soon...
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:33 PM   #15608
dohcfox
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Bike starts without choke...

Morning gents...

I've been commuting on my XRR to and from work for the last year or so and it just occured to me that I never have to set the choke to start the bike, regardless of how cold the motor is. Sure, when cold, I have to keep the idle up by applying a small amount of throttle to keep the motor from dying until it warms up. The bike has been 'uncorked', rejetted and all that. Oh, I've never been able to start the bike with the choke on. Hmmm...

Is this indicative of anything that I might need to change, jetting-wise or otherwise? The bike rides fine, has plenty of power (I think), and gets around mid thirties to the gallon.

Thanks!!
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:06 PM   #15609
mitchn06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dohcfox View Post
Morning gents...

I've been commuting on my XRR to and from work for the last year or so and it just occured to me that I never have to set the choke to start the bike, regardless of how cold the motor is. Sure, when cold, I have to keep the idle up by applying a small amount of throttle to keep the motor from dying until it warms up. The bike has been 'uncorked', rejetted and all that. Oh, I've never been able to start the bike with the choke on. Hmmm...

Is this indicative of anything that I might need to change, jetting-wise or otherwise? The bike rides fine, has plenty of power (I think), and gets around mid thirties to the gallon.

Thanks!!
sounds like your pilot could be a bit rich. post your jet numbers and you will get more input. As you may know, you would rather be too rich than too lean. IDK, i rarely use choke either just initial start, then flip it off, let it warm up a few minutes then depart. I'm sure it is fine.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:33 PM   #15610
Mur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigToad View Post
I prefer the screen size of the Montana, I note that's what Colebatch uses it on the Sibirsky Extreme ride partially because it holds a massive amount of waypoints

On the XRR I had to stick an ear plug behind the plastic that holds battery otherwise it shuts off soon as it gets rough.
Thanks for the replies. I ended up going with the Garmin 62 ST...
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:54 PM   #15611
babuja
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XR650R LED Conversion

Hi guys,

XR headlight it's really bad.

Thinking about converting to LED but realized that LED need battery, and DC power? is this correct?

There's any AC LED for my XR?
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:29 PM   #15612
KASUYAHO
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Just enquiring if anyone has and wants to sell a
Acerbis under seat tank and seat for a XR650R.
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:58 PM   #15613
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babuja View Post
Hi guys,

XR headlight it's really bad.

Thinking about converting to LED but realized that LED need battery, and DC power? is this correct?

There's any AC LED for my XR?

Just needs DC power.

You can get this by having a dual wound stator and regulator / rectifier, or converting your whole system over to DC and floating the ground.

Up to you. First determine what lights you want and the wattage they require keeping in mind the stator produces a fraction of what it's rated at during idle.

IMO, LED is the way to go if you can swing it.

I have HID, and although bright, I still want LED and my next rig will have it.
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Eat. Sleep. Ride - The Great Divide: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19193704
Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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Old 12-22-2012, 07:37 AM   #15614
mrfallover
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I just changed mine yesterday, no special sequence etc.
Try a new seal, they are cheap. These bikes are just so easy to service, I can't imagine not figuring this out quickly.
Let us know!

Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
This is pretty much what I did the first time and the second. I third try is always worth a shot!
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Old 12-22-2012, 08:07 AM   #15615
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
This is pretty much what I did the first time and the second. I third try is always worth a shot!
Medisyn, I wasn't trying to say you were doing it wrong, it's as simple as it appears. We all know how those things can be sometimes, a PITA with no logical reasoning

I just didn't want you guys to get wrapped around the axle over tightening sequences ect... that's not the cause.
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